• 박물관보존과학
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• 제27권
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• pp.39-56
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• 2022

본 연구는 국립중앙박물관 소장 설상용(雪上用) 가죽버선(남산1567)에 대한 보존처리를 진행하여 유물의 안정성을 높이고 향후 전시와 연구 활용을 위한 원형회복을 목적으로 하였다. 가죽버선에 대한 기록은 『승정원일기(承政院日記)』, 『인재일록(忍齋日錄)』, 『하멜표류기』 등의 문헌에 '피말(皮襪)', '녹피말(鹿皮襪)', '장피말(獐皮襪)', '리피말(狸皮襪)'과 같이 재료와 말[襪:버선]이 결합된 형태로 확인되며, 제주도와 연관되어 나타나고 있다. 현전하는 가죽버선은 외형이 버선 모양이고 사용된 재료는 가죽과 면직물이며, 가죽만을 사용한 단일구성, 가죽과 면직물이 결합된 이중구성의 유형이 있다. 이러한 가죽버선은 제주도에서 추위를 막기 위해 신었던 것으로 확인된다. 가죽버선의 보존처리는 먼저 유물에 대한 상태조사를 통해 보존처리 계획을 세웠고, 유물의 상태가 온전하지 못했기 때문에 유물과 관련된 선행연구, 실증자료 조사로 가죽버선의 원형을 파악하고자 했다. 상태조사를 바탕으로 유물의 상태에 맞는 세척을 진행하고, 소실된 버선목 부분은 색 맞춤을 한 직물을 사용하여 가역적인 바느질 방법으로 보강해 주었다. 가죽 부분의 손상과 분상화 진행으로 원형을 잃은 버선바닥 부분은 보강용 틀을 제작해 유물의 형태유지에 도움을 주었다. 해당 과정을 통해 가죽버선의 구성, 제작방법, 특징을 파악하고 가죽버선의 원형 회복과 상태를 안정화시킬 수 있었다.

• 복식
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• 제58권9호
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• pp.114-128
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• 2008

The current study aims to classify types of traditional fur Garments in Jeju into Dusik(hat), dress, Jokui(socks) and accessaries, and examine characteristics of them through demonstrative study focusing on collections of museums in Jeju. Dusik is a kind of hat for protection against the cold, and there are badger leather Gamtaes and cow hair Beonggeojis(fur hats). Especially leather gamtae was used to protect against the cold when people hunted roe deers in Mt. Halla. Beonggeoji was producted in the form of felt with fine hair collected coat-shedding of cows and dogs in spring, therefore it was too warm and practical to be damaged from storm or pressure. Fur coat is a general name of dress made of leather without hair. It is a kind of clothes with a hat worn while taking care of horses and cows. Also people wore dog leather topcoats and cow leather topcoats when they hunted in Mt. Halla. As for Jokui, there are leather Beoseon(socks) made of cow leather, leather shoes in the form of straw shoes, and leather Balle embracing the low half of the body warmly. Accessaries include a rectangular cow leather bag for storing an iron piece for making fire. These traditional fur robs in Jeju not only have practicality for protection against the cold, but also symbolized richness by using leathers of badgers, roe deers, etc. that were previous during that times. Also they used partially cut leather for decoration at the edge.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제4권2호
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• pp.187-206
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• 1996

The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.46-60
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• 2015

This study analyzed the process of development and verification of standards through the competency analysis of fashion accessories products in the development of 'National Competency Standards'(NCS), which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. The NCS for fashion accessories production was developed through three Focus Group Interviews (FGIs) and fashion accessories production was defined as "the process of design, development and manufacture intended to produce items that improve the degree of completion of fashion products that are produced from textile fabric, knitted fabric, leather and other materials such as bags, belts, hats, gloves, scarves, neckties and socks with the exception of clothes". The competency unit for fashion accessories production was analyzed in 11 categories: development of design; development of materials; production of prototype samples; calculation of cost; determination of mass production model and price; planning of main manufacture process; ordering of materials; planning for mass production; preparation for mass production; mass production; and inspection of completed products, and the verification was carried out on development outcomes through a survey carried out of on-site personnel. This study recommends the following direction for future improvements based on an analysis of the development process of the NCS for fashion accessories production. First, future development of standards should first provide a rational category system for each area of fashion good production based on the production process, which should be followed by a detailed competency survey. Second, in order to ensure a more efficient verification survey, an expert for each competency unit should be designated for the develop standard to induce a more sincere response. Also the questionnaire should require supplementation in order to collect the various additional opinions of experts of the field. Finally, this study concludes that it is urgent to procure an education infrastructure and specialized professors in order to apply the competency standard for fashion accessories production to the education sector. This study also concludes that the government will be required to provide systematic and consistent support aimed at supplementing development and forming a firm collaborative working environment for the industry and academia in order to improve the current education environment and build a more field-oriented education environment.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제12권5호
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• pp.859-879
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• 2004

As a result of research, the characteristics of the general costumes from the king Young-Cho period to the king Jung-Cho period in Genre Paintings of Mung-Hyun Oho, Yong Yun, In-Sang Lee, Hee-Eon Kang follows. First, the typical man wore his hair in a topknot(sangtu), and put on 'Bung-gu-ji', 'Lip', or a scarf on his head. The length of the 'Jeogori'(Korean traditional jacket) was long enough to cover the waist. Dress for work had side slits, and had half length sleeve Jeogori, and short pants looked like 'Jam-bang-i'. They went barefoot and wore 'Jipsin'(Korean traditional straw shoes). Dress for outdoor was 'Po' that knot at front of chest by band. 'Baji'(slacks) were with knot below knee, worn 'Hang-jun'(ankle band) and the width of slacks was suitable. They were 'Beoseon'(Korean traditional socks) and shoes. Second those in the upperc1ass and those in the military put on 'Mang-geon', 'Gat', 'Sa-bang-gan', 'Tang-geon', 'Bok-geon' on their head on a topknot. Most of them wore 'So-chang-i', 'Jung-chi-mag' or 'Do-po'. The length of Jeogori covered the waist or the hip and were tied with 'Go-rum'(ribbon). Baji was tied with Hang-jun and 'Dae-nim'. The waist of the slacks were tied with a dark colored waist-band and folded down their waist of slacks. They wore white color Beoseon and 'Hye' or dark color leather shoes. They wore 'Sup'(assistant of arm) for bow. It showed the lifestyle of the 18C with fan, 'Be-ru', 'Mug', 'Yun-jug', teacup, pot, etc. Third, child's hair was short or knotted to the back of the head. The length of Jeogori reached waist line, Git of Jeogori was 'Dunggurai-Kit'(shape of round) and other style Jeogori, which reached the hip line, had side-slit. Baji was tied with Dae-nim, and the width of the slacks is suitable. They hang 'Yum-nang'(Pocket). Final, most women worked outdoors wearing their hair in a high twisted style, or covered it with scarf. They wore Jeogori and 'Chima'(Korean traditional skirts), Bagi. They folded up the sleeves of the Jeogori. And they folded the 'Jambang-i-styled' pants to just above the knees, fastening at the waist. When they wore skirts, they also wore underpants under the skirt that went down to the knees. Most of them went barefoot and wore straw shoes, Jipsin. Through genre paintings, we can understand the ways and forms of our ancestor's clothing. And with our understanding, interest, and passion, we can be familiar with Hanbok in our daily life by succeeding and creating its peculiar style. And then we can promote the globalization of Hanbok.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제54권2호
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• pp.78-97
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• 2021

1795년 윤2월 12일 서장대에서 행해진 군사훈련을 그린 <서장대야조도(西將臺夜操圖)>를 중심으로 관직자의 유형별 복식과 유형별 복식의 구성에 따른 특징을 고찰하였으며 고증 결과는 다음과 같다. 첫째, 서장대 안팎에서 왕 가까이에 위치한 관직자는 모두 34명인데 당상관 27명, 당하관 7명이었다. 34명 관직자의 복식 유형은 모두 3종으로 갑주·융복·군복으로 분류되었는데 그 중 갑주 착용자 12명은 모두 당상관이었고, 융복 착용자 5명은 당상관이었으며, 군복 착용자는 당상관 11명과 당하관 6명이었다. 둘째, 갑주의 형태 고증은 말 타기에 적합한 여반 장군의 갑옷 유물과 『무예도보통지』의 갑주 그림을 참조하고, 착용의 실용성을 고려하여 갑옷의 구성품을 정하였다. 갑주의 구성품은 투구, 갑의, 갑상, 호항, 호액, 비갑에 골미를 추가하였다. 갑주 색상은 <서장대야조도> 갑주에서 가장 표현 빈도가 높은 홍색과 녹색으로 고증하였다. 셋째, 당상 융복의 구성은 호수를 장식한 주립, 남색 철릭, 홍색 광다회, 정, 수화자로 고증하였다. 넷째, 군복 구성은 안을 올린 전립, 동다리, 전복, 요대, 전대, 수화자로 고증하였다. 군복에서 당상과 당하의 직물차이는 문양의 유무에 있었는데 당상관은 운보문 직물을, 당하관은 문양이 없는 직물을 사용하였다. 그리고 당상관은 장식품의 세부 재료에서 옥과 금, 은을 사용하였다. 그 외에 무기는 시복, 환도, 등편, 비구와 깍지 등을 갖추었다. 정조대 기록에는 다양한 색의 협수가 보이므로 당상관과 당하관의 동다리와 전복 색상은 다양한 배색으로 고증하였다. 이상의 고증 결과를 반영하여 콘텐츠 제작을 위한 복식의 시각화 자료로 제시하였다. <서장대야조도> 관직자 복식의 고증 결과를 반영한 시각화의 기본 원칙에서 3D 콘텐츠 제작이나 실물 제작이 가능한 기준을 제시하였다. 시대와 신분에 따른 형태·색상·재질의 견본, 각 복식과 지물을 패용한 앞·옆·뒤 모습을 제시하고 색상은 RGB와 CMYK로 제시하였다.