• Title/Summary/Keyword: Korean women's costumes

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Study on Image of Femme Fatale represented on Costumes in the Movie 'Chicago' (영화 '시카고'의 의상(衣裳)에 나타난 팜므 파탈 이미지 연구(硏究))

  • Kim, Ji-Young;Kan, Ho-sup
    • Journal of Fashion Business
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    • v.8 no.1
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    • pp.16-33
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    • 2004
  • Up to now, image of femme fatale has undergone constant transformation to be inherited and developed through various genres of movies. With few exceptions such cases have represented sensuality of women by costumes with the most distinctive and exaggerated sexuality. Temptresses in movies are mostly drawn as extravagant and gorgeous one or a gloomy and dreary woman. Such an image is reinforced with make-up, hair style, accessories, attitude and manner of talking. The movie 'Chicago' is a musical film that crosses the boundaries of reality and fantasy with dancing and singing. Its lighting, stage setting, powerful and sexy dancing augmented already exaggerated and sensual costumes. Following is the analysis of costumes for two heroines as images of femme fatale. Strong contrast of color among black, red and blue on see-through & stickingly tight body suit signifies liberal mind and arrogant charisma of Velma. The contrast, haughty gestures, cropped black hair and thick makeups represent sex appeal, aggressive image, and fearlessly determined character of femme fatale. Roxie wears decent dresses in front of public and gorgeous stage costume in fantasy to convey two images of bad girl and angel. Her body suit, showing off lustering materials and dazzling bead decoration, is rather loose but still displays her bodyline to emphasize sexiness for representation of desire in fantasy. Chastity and innocence are implied with the decency of dresses in reality. They were specially chosen to draw public sympathy and indicate cunning disguise of Roxy who desperately wants to realize her desire. These dauntless costumes, which sufficiently express inside aspirations of Velma and Roxie later denote open and realistic social yearning rather than fatal desire hidden behind sensual beauty. It doesn't exist as imperfect, unrealistic and socially disdainful ambition as the image of femme fatale of paintings and movies did before in history. Femme fatale is expressed with deep cleavage, silk dresses that explicitly display bodyline, sexiness of mesh stockings with garter belts. All of these won't be utilized as a negative tool to seduce and destroy someone anymore but rather, they should represent rightful and fair nature of humans such as men's curiosity who secretly steal a look at them or female sexuality that women spontaneously want to show off.

A Study on the Construction Technique of Western Women's Jacket in the Late 19th Century (19세기 말 서양 여성 재킷의 구성기술에 관한 연구)

  • Ryu, Kyung Hwa;Kim, Yang Hee
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.65 no.7
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    • pp.60-74
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    • 2015
  • It is considered that jacket was widespread in the 19th century due to its simple and convenient production technique. This study aims to explore the western women's jacket in the late 19th century, which is the basis of modern women's outwear, and we focused on the patterns and construction, the technical aspect of the jacket. We researched pattern books and preserved costume materials, and the study methods are as follows: First, we analyzed the pattern of the jackets from the pattern books and preserved costumes. Second, we analyzed the construction of the jackets from the preserved costumes and compared it to previous researches. The study results are as follows: 19th century jacket consisted of a bodice, a back bodice, a side panel, two-piece sleeve and a collar. The front bodice had cuttings and a dart to make the jacket fit the shape of the body and the two-pieced leg of mutton sleeve, puffed at the shoulder. Various styles of collar and neckline existed. The pattern suggested diverse ways of designing a jacket, such as cutting with partition, dart and pattern expansion that focused on three-dimensional effect at that time.

Research of the Foreign Dancing Costumes - From Han to Sui Tang Dynasty - (중국(中國) 호무복식(胡舞服飾)에 관한 연구 - 한대(漢代)부터 수당대(隋唐代)를 중심으로 -)

  • Yoo, Ji-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.56 no.3 s.102
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    • pp.57-72
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    • 2006
  • Culture speaks for the characters of the period, so it is presented by the mutual actions of many factors affecting culture. Foreign culture, introduced by cultural exchange, was modified and accepted into a new form and value system. In the beginning, only foreigners danced these dances, but Chinese started to dance them gradually. Thus, the dancing costume showed the complete fusion of Chinese and exotic styles. Especially, in the Tang dynasty, Chinese accepted foreign culture very actively and with open hearts. They accepted foreign culture based on their traditional culture, and fused them completely. In these costumes, not one culture was prominent, but many cultures from Gandhara to East and West Turkistan and even to Persian and Hellenism were synthesized together. Chinese, in the Tang dynasty, retained on their traditional culture and modified new foreign culture into Chinese style.

The Development of Local Festival Costumes in Andong (안동지역 축제의상 개발에 관한 연구)

  • Kim, Hee-Sook
    • Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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    • v.19 no.1
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    • pp.1-10
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    • 2017
  • The purpose of this research is to industrialize and to localize traditional culture resources of Andong by developing festival costumes related to 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. We tried several methods to deliver meanings and images of festival costumes, as followings. Frist, from April, 2009 to October, 2012, we created the new design of the festival costumes after consulting with 7 festival experts about the conditions and characteristics of 'Andong Mask Dance Festival'. The festival costume design is characterized by the detachable parts of clothing based on Han-bok style, the front and back of bodice, right and left side of both sleeves, and pockets, which can be tied up with strings. Therefore the consumers can choose and attach the part they want. Secondly, the newly created festival costumes were evaluated appropriately to the consumer's satisfaction, implementation, practicality, and long-term development possibility according to the survey of 85 participants who were, in fact, wearing the festival costumes in the festival. The results are as follows: Frist, festival costumes are based on Korean traditional costumes, and it appears wearing object as festival costumes. Secondly, traditional beauty and modern beauty are well matched up, so men and women of all ages are possible to wear. Thirdly, size of costume can be controlled, so it's easy to wear. Finally, construction method is very simple. The possibility of long-term development by various material development is needed.

A Study on the Methodology of Excavated-Costumes - With a Focus on the Cases of Excavated Costumes from the Grave of Nor Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family - (출토복식 보수방법에 관한 고찰 - 경주노씨 수함(1516~1573)공(公) 일가(一家) 출토복식 사례를 중심으로 -)

  • Chung, Young-Ran;Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.7
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    • pp.65-78
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    • 2013
  • This study aims to suggest the methodology for conservation of excavated costumes especially repair and restoration process. Early excavated costumes had not attracted attention from the field of academia and the public. So not many scholars, organization and society participated in the excavations but as its value has gotten more recognition, there has been a reversal in trend. And so many organizations have taken part in it. Excavating includes conservation processes such as washing, repair and restoring, and then it is published by reports or books after the process is complete. However the method of conservation has varied depending on the institution. In particular, repair and restore methods do not include anything specific details, and often times, only has descriptions of the before and after state, and so a more unified method needs to be suggested and shared. This study defined 'Conservation', 'Repair' and 'Restoration' and then applied it to the short history of Korean excavated-costumes. Then it suggested ways to repair and restore excavated-costumes in terms of construction, textile, and damage by the unpublished cases of excavated-costumes of Noh Su-ham(1516~1573)'s Family. It was also referred to repair and restoration process such as shaping correction, dyeing, supporting, sewing and after treatment by texts and pictures. Other contents such as a list of relics and its details, will be published through a report or a book. The whole process of conservation was in progress based on the ethical guidelines of conservation, 'Minimum intervention' and 'Reversibility'.

The Study on the Hollywood Film Costume of Fashion image in 1930s (1930년대 할리우드 영화의상의 패션이미지에 관한 연구)

  • Song, Young-Kyoung;Lim, Young-Ja
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.9
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    • pp.110-123
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    • 2007
  • This study is purposed to analyze the characteristics of different images of Hollywood movie costumes centering on the costumes of actresses who are the fashion leaders creating fashions especially focusing on those in 1930s. The scope of this study covers the movie costumes selected from the movies ranging from 1930 to 1939 centering on the Hollywood movies produced and released by large movie distributors and the movie costumes of heroins that exerted great influences on the culture and clothing history of 1930s were examined. As for the methods of study, visual data and image data including movies were collected through related dissertations, articles in journals, internet sites relating to movies and photos and we have analyzed each of the characteristics of the movie costumes appearing in each image. The result of this study is as follows. Firstly, ethnic images were the reflection of orientalism that was popular in the fashion of the age with the purpose of highlighting the exotic appearances of the actresses and were the cases where the characters of the actresses had to be expressed in ethnic styles due to the spatial backgrounds of movie works. Secondly, glamorous images were highlighting the appeals of plump breasts, shoulder lines and the bodies constricted in the middle and the Hollywood movie costumes in 1930s. The smooth and flowing silhouettes of the heroins of the age were mainly long and slim patterns and female's images were expressed by highlighting the beauty of leg lines or especially by halter neck evening dresses that exposed backs and covered breasts. Thirdly, mannish images reflected tough images of males in order to further highlight the reality of the characters of the heroins of the age pursuant to the emergence of the opinions advocating the equality between men and women.

A Study on the religion and costumes of the Amish (Amish의 종교관과 의복)

  • 박금주
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.32
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    • pp.57-68
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    • 1997
  • The purpose of this study was to understand the effects of religion on Amish costumes. For this study I twice visited Amish village in Lancaster Pennsylvania U.S,A in July 1993 and August 1996. The methods of study directed direct observation and literature re-search. The results of this study were as follows: The Amish was livid practically by strict princi- ples of simplicity diligence piety and mutual cooperation. The Amish behavioral code of laws known as ordnung dictated appropriate dress agricultual methods and a routine for daily life. The Amish costumes originated with the 17th century Puritans traditional apparel the European farmer and the clothing style of 19th century Americal,. Amish costumes was fastened with hooks and eyes instead of decorative buttons a diret influence of Puritanism does and did non con-tain ornamental outer pockets. This distinctively simple costumes served as a boundary outsiders to and as a direct ex-pression of their faith. An Amish doll had neither facial features nor fingers and toes as described in scripture "You do not become corrupt and make for yourselves an idol an image of any shape whether formed like a man or a women or like any animal on earth or any bird that flies in the air or like any creature that moves along the ground or any fish in the waters below" In this way Amish costumes was affected by their religion and faith.

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Characteristics of Woman's Jogori through the costumes excavated from ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) grave and preserved in Yeoju Museum Gyeounggi Province, Korea (여주박물관 소장 창녕조씨(1721~1742)묘 복식을 통해 본 여자저고리의 조형적 특성)

  • Song, Mi-Kyung
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.6
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    • pp.218-230
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    • 2012
  • The 25 pieces of women's jogori worn by ChangRyung Jo's family(1721~1742) that are preserved in Yeoju Museum, Gyeounggi Province, Korea were examined in this study. The aim of this study is to analyze women's jogori that were excavated from the grave of Changryung Jo's family, and to characterize women's costumes around the middle $18^{th}$ Century. The size of the jogori was divided into two groups. The garment length of the first group ranged from 31cm to 34cm and the bigger size ranged from 36.5cm to 40cm. The number of jogori in the group with the smaller size was twenty-five pieces and five pieces for the group with the bigger size. Changryung Jo's jogori was composed of two pieces of padded jogori, four pieces of quilted jogori and nineteen pieces of double layer jogori. Even though the direction of the margin located on back seemed point toward the right hand side, the gorum, the string for the tie, and the Sup, the outer gore of the jogori located on the other side of the margin had no pattern of direction. The line of jogori from the armhole gets narrower toward the edge of sleeves which could be recognized as a typical pattern of the middle $18^{th}$ Century jugori. The bigger group of jogori seemed to be worn by people other than ChangRyung Jo's relatives and used to be a gifts to aid in funerals. Major characteristics of jogori is could be categorized into the Dangko Mokpan collar jogori and Samhaejang jogori. The results of this study helps set the relative dating for the women's jogori of middle $18^{th}$ Century where not much excavations have been made.

A Study of Costumes in the Palace Painting Depicting the Worship of Buddha during the Reign of King Myungjong (관중숭불도에 나타난 16세기 복식연구)

  • 홍나영;김소현
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.38
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    • pp.305-321
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    • 1998
  • The costume style of the Chosun dynasty changed greatly after Imjinwaeran (the Japanese Invasion of Chosun Korea, 1592∼1598). Most of the extant costumes come from the late Chosun, but some costumes produced be-fore Imjinwaeran have been excavated, and in addition, information on these older constumes is contained in contemporary literature. Of especial value in the study of pre-Imjinwaeran Chosun constumes is a mid-sixteenth century palace painting depicting the worship of Buddha, a painting in the collection of the Ho-Am Art Museum in Seoul. The present study of costume during the middle Chosun dynasty focuses on this painting, and compares it with other contemporary palace paintings, and with other contemporary palace paintings, and with Nectar Ritual Paintings. The following conclusion were drawn : * Concerning woman's hair styles of the time, married women wore a large wig. Un-married women braided their hair, and then either let it fall down their back or wore it coiled on top of their head. * The major characteristic of woman's costumes was a ample, tube-like silhouette, with the ratio of the Jeogori(Korean woman's jacket) and skirt being one-to-one. * The style of Jeogori in the painting was like that of excavated remains. Some Jeogoris were simple (without decoration), while some Jeogoris were worn with red sashes. Here we can confirm the continuity of ancient Korean costumes with those of the sixteenth century * Although the skirt covered the ankles, it did not touch the ground. Because the breadth of the skirt was not wide, it seems to have been for ordinary use. Colors of skirts were mainly white or light blue. * All men in the painting wore a headdress. Ordinary men, not Buddhist monks, wore Bok-du (headstring), Chorip (straw hat), or Heuk-rip (black hat). In this painting, men wore a Heukrip which had a round Mojeong (crown). * The men wore sashes fastened around their waist to close their coats, which was different from the late Chosun, in which men bound their sashes around their chest. That gave a ration of the bodice of the coat to the length of the skirt of one-to-one, which was consistent with that of woman's clothing. * In this painting, we cannot see the Buddhist monk's headdress that appeared later in the Chosun, such as Gokkal (peaked hat), Songnak (nun's hat), and Gamtu (horsehair cap). These kinds of headdresses, which appeared in paintings from the seventeenth century, were worn widely inside or outside the home. Buddhist monks wore a light blue long coat, called Jangsam (Buddhist monk's robe) and wore Gasa (Buddhist monk's cope), a kind of ceremonial wrap, round their body. We can see that the Gasa was very splendid in the early years of the Chosun dynasty, a continuing tradition of Buddhist monk's costumes from the Koryo dynasty.

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The Changes of Ceremonial Costumes of the Guan Yu Shrine and the Method for their cultural contents (관왕묘 의례 복식의 변천과 문화콘텐츠화 방안)

  • Park, Ga-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.62 no.4
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    • pp.32-45
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    • 2012
  • The purpose of this research is to better understand the Dongmyo, the Eastern Shrine of GuanYu and the military costumes of the Joseon period andto develop different cultural contents. By studying relevant literature, confirmations were made about the various types of costumes and their historical changes. During the reign of King Yeongjo, the ceremonial conductors often wore armors, and the king wore a different military costume. During the reign of King Jeongjo thereafter, the ceremonial costumes were codified in the book, the Chun-gwan tonggo(General Outline for the Ministry of Rites), along with the costumes for the musicians and lower officials. However, the military features were weakened in the late Imperial Joseon years. In terms of costumes, it would be best today to restore the ceremonies of the Shrine of Guan Yu during the period of King Jeongjo. All the costumes for different figures of the Shrine are clearly confirmed, and by emphasizing the main features of the ceremonials of the Shrine, it is possible to differentiate the ceremony from other restoration activities in Korea. For the Guan Yu statue, the hat is square shaped and decorated with nine bead strings, it is dressed with a red dragon coat and a violet inner coat. This study presents methods for the restorations of the original costumes for the individual figures of the ceremonials, with necessary theoretical explanations. The king wears the lamella gold armor, while different ceremonial officials wear differentiated armors according to their different ranks. All the civil and military officials who attend the ceremony wear military clothes with horse's mane hats and swords. The musical conductor and directors are expected in armors and participating musicians also have to wear armors according to the Akhak Gwebeom (Basics of Music).