• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.3
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• pp.359-370
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• 2011

This study analyzes the textiles design of natural indigo dyed products in Korea and Japan. In this study, a total of 556 Korean natural indigo dyed products, and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products were used for analysis. The subjects of this study were 556 natural indigo dyed products and 2,730 Japanese natural indigo dyed products selling natural indigo dyed products which were found using search engine keywords of natural indigo dyeing and natural dyeing. Research and analysis was treated regarding the products, items, patterns, and the representation techniques of the patterns. The results of this study are as follows. In the pattern used for natural indigo dyed products, 71.4% of Korean products have no pattern, but 77.1% of Japanese products have patterns. On the representation techniques of the patterns, Korean products used tie-dyeing and a dip patterned fabric. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterning techniques were paraffin dye, followed by tie-dyeing, yarn-dyed and weaving, screen printing, and yarn-dyed and knitting. Regarding the kinds of patterns for natural indigo dyed products, only 8 kinds of patterns were used in Korean products; however, over 50 kinds of various patterns were used in Japanese products. Most patterns in the Korean products were ion patterns made by tie-dyeing. While in the Japanese products, the most frequent patterns were stripe patterns, followed by flower, dot, and ion patterns. Based on these research results, the problems of the textile design of Korean natural indigo dyed products were that most of the products have no pattern, and even though there were patterns, they lacked variations between the products. While in the case of Japan, they used the traditional and modem patterns of various textile representation techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.7
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• pp.32-46
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• 2015

Treasures patterns are simplified designs of vessels used in everyday life, which were symbols of luck. Treasures patterns on textiles are largely assorted into four groups: eight auspicious patterns of Buddhism, eight immortal patterns of Taoism, seven treasures patterns of King Chakravarti in the Buddhist Scriptures and normal treasures patterns. Among them normal treasures patterns are most commonly used. Records in the Joseon documents show these patterns as being composed of seven treasures patterns or eight treasures patterns. But observation of the actual relics show that these patterns ranged from four to ten patterns. Korean traditional textiles treasures patterns began to appear in Korea on the relics of the last of Goryeo period. They were used as sub-patterns among main patterns of dynamically rising cloud patterns with five heads. Treasures patterns in the early Joseon period were commonly used as sub-patterns, and cloud and treasures pattern were prime examples of this. In the 16th century, lotus vine pattern, small flower vine pattern, or small flower pattern were often used as main patterns and treasures patterns were regularly used as sub-patterns. The robe of the Great Monk of Seo San was unique, in that both main and sub patterns consisted of the treasures patterns. From the 17th century, treasures patterns began to be used as main patterns. For example, a relic with eight alternatively arranged treasures patterns were found. Though there were still some cases where the patterns were used as sub-patterns, they begin to appear bigger than the previous period and became similar to main patterns in size. In the 18th and 19th centuries, there were various cases where treasures patterns were combined with flowers, fruits, animals, and letter patterns and used as main patterns. And there are many different methods of representing and developing the patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.62 no.1
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• pp.90-103
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• 2012

Felt, is one of the Korean traditional woolen fabrics, that is thermally excellent and durable, so it has been widely used for various living goods from the ancient time to the modern society. Felt makes various changes in colors and shapes, does not change easily even after a long-term use, and is easy to clean. In this study, the origin and history of felt were researched. Also, different kinds and shapes of felt and the currently used manufacturing technique, and how the Korean traditional pattern-applied cultural products were developed using felt were examined as well. The method of this study were as follows. First, felt manufacturing techniques used after investigating the precedent studies, books, records and literatures of museums, the existing relics of felt were examined. Second, the conditions of the traditional pattern-applied cultural products were found out through the precedent studies after examination of kinds and symbols of the Korean traditional patterns. Third, patterns that were applied to cultural products were selected and designed with new patterns. Fourth, the past techniques were conducted with the following three methods by referring to the range of cultural products manufacturing; )color felt made with one color, pattern felt, and pattern-embroidered felt. Fifth, the following products combined with decoration and practical application by applying felt techniques were used. This study was aiming at the development of practical cultural products made with the traditional wool, felt, which can receive a good response from all age groups. It is allegedly required to develop various cultural products through studies and the rediscovery of the national traditional materials. In the future, it is necessary to study in such a way that diversification and differentiation are made through approaches and attempts with various techniques.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.718-727
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• 1996

"Saikdong" is a material that represents the Korean aesthetic behavioral pattern of colors. It shows the unique harmony of the color combination with the use of simple combined colors. The objective of this paper is two-folded. First, it is to explore the direction of Korean Design. Secondly, it is to find out aesthetic charateristics and consciousness in Saikdong. 17 traditional costumes made with the designs of Saikdong were selected from three museums in Seoul. The most properly matched color hues selected after comparing each color with the Pantone Textile Color Specifier. The results were shown as follows. 1. Korean design is to recreate the traditional objects considering the contemporary circumstances. 2. Contrast effects in lightness and saturation are very noticeable in Saikdong. Saikdong maintains the same widths of color stripes with the asymmetric balance of hues which give the rhythmical arrangement of colors. 3. Sikdong contains the shamanic wishes that everything is going well and the desire for the beauty. 4. The aesthetic consciousness of Saikdong has turned out to be happiness and harmonizing.rmonizing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.11-18
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• 2017

The purpose of this study is to investigate the trends of Hanbok pattern research published in journals and theses. We collected 70 articles related to the Hanbok pattern. The articles were divided into 7 chronicles based on publishing year, and analyzed by journal, publishing year, research theme, wearing subject and research pattern. Researches can be categorized into journals, university research paper, and master's theses. After 1981, studies on the pattern of Hanbok have been continuing. Most researches were focused on traditional Hanbok, especially about Jeogori. Research on modernized Hanbok started from Vchronicle(2001~2005), but it has not progressed anymore. According to the analysis on wearing subject, the number of research for female Hanbok was almost three times that of the male. Most researches were performed on adult Hanbok, and subjects were expanded to children, adolescents and middle-aged. The body shape of the wearer did not mentioned on many articles. Pattern researches started from excavated costume, but most researches were about commercial patterns. These researches on the pattern on Hanbok have shown an increasing tendency as the years passed, but researches on modernized Hanbok, including Hanbok pattern development for modern life style should be conducted more actively. In an aging society, as the number of middle-aged consumers increases, pattern research on middle-aged or older people and their various body shapes should be necessary.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.5
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• pp.23-36
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• 2009

The purpose of this research is to design and to produce actual high value added wedding dress comprised of the pear blossoms pattern(梨花紋), which is one of the traditional patterns which was not researched to this day, and of the Dang-$\breve{u}$i(唐衣) image which reflects our concept of beauty as if as a means of conducting empirical study for the application of traditional Korean patterns to the contemporary application. pear blossoms effectively signifie the image of beautiful bride thanks to the pure, graceful and clean image of white flower, both in the external and internal aspects. The Dang-$\breve{u}$i of the Chosun Dynasty, which is another motif is one of the representative clothing that expresses the beauty of the curve when it comes to the Korean culture as traditional wedding dress. Attempt was made to develop design for wedding dress that expresses the Korean style beauty that combined the tradition and the modern. Towards this end, the project was composed of the Korean-like Ewha, image of the Dang-$\breve{u}$i I, II and III to design three dresses. The Dress I presents the image of pure, elegant and beautiful bride, while Dress II represents the pure and city like trendiness of the Korean women today as bride. Dress III was made centered on the image of elegant, and chaste bride. As for the materials used, hand-woven silk and silk organza used for the traditional clothes. As for the ornaments, embroidery, quilted work, beads, corsage, burn-out and other techniques were used for expression.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.45-53
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• 2008

Different method of textile fabrication had existed since the ancient times, but the most dominant form was the 'weaving' method which embodies the cross fabrication of vertical and horizontal threads using special weaving machines (looms). In addition, fabrication methods like knitting, felt, and lace were commonly practiced while intertwinement methods like twisting, braiding, and knotting techniques were frequently used for weaving strings and braid type textiles. In the past, people did not pay attention to strings and braids because they were classified as non-textiles, but, in this paper, we have expanded the scope of definition of textile to include strings and braids, and seek to conduct in-depth research on various different intertwinement of textiles. The adaptation of intertwinement method in arts and crafts enables limitless creative works reflecting the ever-changing taste and style of the creator. This creativity is further broadened by the fact that intertwinement methods encompass no set patterns and the subject and shape of its creation is as broad as its artistic pursuits. We can infer the knowledge of our ancestors, their aesthetic taste, and the pattern of life from these creations. In addition, these creations can provide comfort and improve the quality of life of modem people who are deeply deprived of sentimental and emotional solitude in the technological civilization of the 21stcentury. The main purpose of this paper is to examine traditional Korean arts and crafts made using the intertwinement methodology through the context of strings, braids, straw crafts and knotting method. Then it will conduct through research on the different materials, forms, characteristics, usage and other key notions based on the currently preserved records and relics to contribute to the research on traditional textiles and provide the foundations to the development of the Korean culture and cultural products, reflecting the true sole and aesthetics of traditional Korean textile crafts.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.1
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• pp.97-113
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• 2016

This study develops pant patterns using body shape, measurement and shell mesh data to decide optimal women's pants according to styles with excellent size, fit and shape for different individuals and silhouettes. Standard landmarks, lines, triangles and structures were set on a 3D scanned lower body shell to represent women in their twenties and flattened as a 2D pattern. Patterns were created and analyzed according to culotte, formal, slacks and tight type considering crotch shape, location of the crotch point, and adjusting waist darts. Flattened patterns were rotated to compare existing methods. The crease lines were then set through the hip protrusion point and compared. The main factor of the pant pattern were extracted, total rise, crotch depth, crotch width, angle of center line, shape of the center line curve, the thigh width, the amount of waist dart, and crease line position. With going tight style from the culotte, the fits are closer to the figure with minimized thigh circumference, the dart amount decreases, the crotch depth increases, the crotch extensions were shorter, and the angle of the center back increased. The total rise is U shape for culotte and is closer to V shape as the silhouette tightens. T-test of appearance evaluation of the developed pant pattern were conducted after analyzing measurements and shapes of each styles. The results of the developed patterns were superior to existing patterns in accordance to hip line between body and pants as well as appearance evaluation. We found systematic mechanisms among pattern factors that create various pant silhouettes. Evidence on classification of the silhouettes of traditional types of pants were explained objectively through the process of playing out 3D forms.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.24 no.3
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• pp.121-137
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• 2020

This thesis makes it an aim to develop designs of Shinhanbok coats interpreting and applying the formative structure of the lattice window pattern in Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace, one of the best architecture in Chosun dynasty. Literature review about the history and characteristics of the window of Huijeongdang of the Changdeokgung palace was performed on the basis of the internet resources and papers, and the examples of the fashion design applying the lattice window patterns were analyzed. Then, three style Shinhanbok coats were designed and presented with making use of 6 kind of lattice window patterns as its motif. The coats were designed in flexible size, attempting to clad any kind of body size and shapes. Design 1 drawn from Wanjasal, Tisal, Design 2 drawn from Ajasal, Yongjasal, Tisal, design 3 drawn from Bitsal, Jungjasal. In conclusion, lattice window patterns of the traditional beauty highlighted in view of modern times might be suggested as the motif for expressing the proportion with balance and rhythm with stability. The division of the space with the line was tried with the technique of the bias cutting, stitching and taping with the design of simplicity signified in the aesthetics of the vacant space in addition to its ornamental effects. Thus, this study would like to contribute to the popularity of the Shinhanbok outlined in modern application and unique taste through the study and applications of the traditional lattice window pattern of Korea.