• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.53 no.2
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• pp.137-151
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• 2003

Fashion photographs from leading monthly fashion magazines in 1990s were analyzed. The types and the formative feature characteristics and the aesthetic values of domestic retrospective fashion were studied. The major conclusions of the study are as follows 1. The types of domestic retro fashion were historicism, ethnic, ecology. Retro fashion was expressed through applying and reappearing silhouette, detail. fabric and image of the costumes of the past. 2. Renaissance. Baroque, Rococo styles and the costumes and styles of 1960s and 1970s were mainly applied in domestic fashion. 3. Orientalism was emphasized and Korean traditional styles and Chinese costumes were expressed mainly in domestic fashion. Fashion trends recurrent and intimate to the nature were expressed in patterns, fabrics, dyeing and silhouettes of nature. 4. The formative feature characteristics of domestic retro fashion were recurrence, purity. tradition and decoration. As retro fashion applies costumes of the past newly, it supplies unlimited possibilities to the present fashion which seeks versatility.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.5
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• pp.803-809
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• 2006

Korean traditional paper 'Hanji' made from the bark of the paper mulberry tree is a good handicraft material because of its high viscosity, durability, dyeability, toughness, flexibility, plasticity, and manipulability. Hanji has been used as a textile material such as cotton wool for protection and keeping us warm from cold weather. However, Hanji has many limitations, while other textile materials have many advantages of such as washability, being sunproof, and fast coloring. The purpose of this study is to review physical properties, formation ability, and dyeability of Hanji as a material of fashion accessary. The contents of this study are composed of 5 parts: 1. To introduce the necessities of this study, 2. To review a historical background of Hanji and to identify its physical characteristics as a fashion accessary material, 3. To review and to compare techniques such as bonding, quilting, knitting, creasing and holding, twisting, folding & braiding, paper pasting, coloring & cutting, and outwashing(?) in making Hanji fashion accessaries, 4. To review dyeing and finishing techniques to increase commercial value, 5. To identify the best fashion accessary materials made of Hanji. The most important characteristics of Hanji as a fashion accessary material are its toughness in a wet state, fast color fixing, and flexibility. Especially weaving and knitting are considered as the most desirable techniques to make fashion accessary products stronger and more practical.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.860-876
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• 2013

The pattern cases for Korean traditional socks are named "beoseonbongip" which means a pouch to keep patterns for making "beoseon". "Beoseon" is Korean traditional socks. This study is to identify characteristics of the pattern cases and to develop cultural products based on the unique characteristics of the pattern cases. One hundred fifty one photos of "beosonbongip" were collected and quantitatively and qualitatively analyzed. Seventy percent of them were made between Joseon Dynasty and 1960s. As a result, most of the collected pattern cases are rectangular and square shapes, red color, and silk fabrics, and sizes of them are from 9cm to 15cm. A few pattern cases with different sizes and colors were also observed. Most pattern cases were made by fixing two among four triangle pieces which made by folding four tips of a rectangular or square cloth and then puting a not or a loop on the remaining triangle pieces in order to open and close the pattern cases. In a small number of the pattern cases, three of the four pieces were fixed and a button, a bead, a broach, or two nots or two loops were put on the other piece for opening and closing. Products such as apparels, bags, pouches, frames, and key holders were made using "beoseonbongip" form and construction method. This shows that "beoseonbongip" is a useful motive for creative product development.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.4
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• pp.13-24
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• 1981

The color yellow was considered from ancient time to the Chosun Dynasty as the central color. Thus, this color became the royal color for the costumes in the palace. It is generally known to usthat the color yellow was controled in use both for the general public and in the royal palaces. However, in the later part of Chosun Dynasty, the color yellow was used not only for the king's costumes but also used for women's tops and for the linings of clothing. Especially, in some of the costumes that belonged to the later period of the Chosun Dynasty, we can still see lots of bright yellow tops. Also there are many green dyed official robes and various costumes for women. It is a true fact that people could not derive the color green from the plants as they did with yellow. The only way they could make the color green was to mix indigo and yellow together. By repeating the difficult process of making various dyes constantly during many centuries, the Korean people developed the marvelous technique of making natural color. Those plants used to make the color yellow are ; Gardenia, Phellodendron amurense, Turmeric, Coptis, Safflower, Arthraxon hispidus, Styphnolobium japonicum. While synthetic dye causes pollution, natural coloring by plants is as safe and useful as the color itself is lovely. Yet it is tragic to know that this traditional culture of making beautiful natural colors was cut off. There is no way to know today the traditionally correct method to derive colors from the plants. Therefore, it is our aim and challenge to find out the original way to dye and develop it and preserve it as our non-polluted folk art. In regard to natural dyeing, we must say that is very difficult to prepare and preserve natural dyes. In the first place, people had to get the right plants at an appropriate time. Then they could not keep those plants too long. Finally, much depended upon the mordant as well as various conditions and dyeing procedures. All those things influenced greatly the quality of color, some times producing a very pretty color and other times a very dull one. It is very appropriate that the natural dye art should be recognized and appreciated anew by Korea since it provides satisfaction to historical and folk artistic demands as well as to those of fashion conscious modern society for high quality consumption items. We propose two stages of development. The first stage is to explore native dye plants and encourage their cultivation. The second stage is to extract from the plants desirable dye which will enhance national culture.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.12
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• pp.1963-1970
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• 2008

Natural indigo dye in powder form was prepared by modifying traditional Niram method, using $Ca(OH)_2$ instead of baked oyster powder for precipitating indigo dye. The prepared dye was applied to dyeing Tencel fabrics to investigate the effect of experimental conditions for the optimization of dyeing process. The indigo dye powder contained 15.2%(w/w) of indigo content and 0.757%(w/w) of indirubin content on the basis of HPLC analysis. Maximum dye uptake was obtained at $60^{\circ}C$ for 20min. Almost saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 4g/L of indigo dye and then slowly increased for further increase of sodium hydrosulfite. Whereas at higher indigo dye concentration(8g/L) more than 3g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the maximum dye uptake. At the same indigo dye and reducing agent concentration, K/S value of the sample dyed without sodium hydroxide(pH 5.75) was 15.19, much higher than one dyed in alkaline condition(K/S 5.76). There was no difference in colorfastness ratings among samples with different color strength. However, more fading was occurred for the sample with low color strength.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.1
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• pp.129-143
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• 2002

Patterns are something that comes out of necessity in human life, which is closely associated with it. Thus come the SFAA (Seoul Fashion Artists Association) collection which uses patterns varying in form, color, way of expression and material. For this research, I first categorized the patterns the SFAA designers used into: natural patterns, symmetric patterns, traditional patterns, stripe, plaid, dot and abstract patterns. As a result of the process. the designers most favored the natural patterns and symmetric patterns, and dot patterns were rarely used. The designer who most favored patterns in general was Sul Yun-hyoung, and the designer Kim Chul-ung rarely favored the surface effect. The seven kinds of patterns naturally differ according to the designer. as Park Hang-chi liked to use the plaid patterns along with yam dyeing material, whereas Jin Teok expressed stripe patterns using the yarn dyeing fabric. Natural patters were presented in a bizarre way with Lie Sang-bong. who took the motives appearing in Eastern ceramic and paintings into the clothes, using the print method. The symmetric patterns, which the SFAA designers most preferred. was used evenly among designers like Chang Kwang-hyo, Gee Choon-hee. Rubina, and Haneza. In contrast. Lie Sang-bong. who used abstract patterns that do not give out meaning of the actual form of the pattern. rarely used symmetric patterns. The dot patterns were most often used by Park Youn-soo. and traditional patterns were overwhelmingly chosen by Sul Yun-hyoung. Secondly. in expressing the colors, SFAA designers were much more likely to choose achromatic colors. not choosing to show off colors. This is especially apparent in works by Haneza and Lie Sang-bong. In the SFAA collections, numerous methods were used to create. For instance, Sul Yun-hyoung used the oriental embroidery method. and Rubina and Lie Sang-bong used many unique dying methods. In terms of materials, Sul Yun-hyoung preferred silk. due to her methods, and Lie Sang-bong was one of the designers that used a number of different materials such as vinyl. Jacques Mueclier of the Paris Clothes Association in France, who was invited to SFAA collection once, remarked. "While the choice of material and the actual sewing done were excellent, there lacked much difference among the designers, as most of them choose flowing silhouette In terms of composition," which is all too correct. In addition, there were cases in the collection where the inherent feelings of cultural artifacts was expressed without alteration. Summing up, the research aimed to analyze the surface expression methods, forms and color of SFAA designs. and I hope that it can open up ways for new projects in the future.he future.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.30 no.4
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• pp.353-364
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• 2014

Formaldehyde(HCHO) may have a damage effect on Korean traditional textiles, because concentration is high and occurrence frequency is frequent at the exhibition room and storage area. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to HCHO gas in the test chamber. The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles according to HCHO concentration(0.5, 1, 10, 100, 500ppm), to temperature-humidity condition at HCHO 500ppm, and deterioration conditions at HCHO 500ppm. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. The results, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased at 500ppm, while pH decreased at 500ppm. Also, color difference, grey scale rating, formate($HCO_2{^-}$) of some textiles increased double damage at high temperatures & humidity, high humidity condition. But, damages of accelerated degradation textiles were slight, because of degradation degree and degradation products. The results suggest that determined the damage to the korean traditional textile, damage level, damage-weighted condition, damage to accelerated degradation textiles. In addition, formaldehyde damaged to yellowing of red textiles, bleaching of accelerated degradation textiles, formic acid damaged to bleaching of total 20 specimens.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.29 no.3
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• pp.197-207
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• 2013

The gas acceleration test was conducted to identify the deterioration of Korean traditional textiles caused by $NO_2$. Total 20 specimens were prepared using 4 different materials (silk, cotton, ramie, hemp) after dyeing with 5 colors (undyed, red, yellow, blue, black). The specimens were exposed to 0.01, 0.1, 1, 10, 100, and 1000 ppm $NO_2$ gas in the test chamber at $20^{\circ}C$, 50% RH for 1 day. Optical, chemical, and physical evaluation was carried out after the exposure. In the case of Korean traditional textile, color difference increased at 1 ppm/day, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration, carbonyl and C-$NO_2$ functional group increased while pH decreased at 10 ppm/day and tensile strength weakened at 100 ppm/day. when it comes to undyed textile, alteration of color difference on silk and hemp cloth, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration and tensile strength on hemp cloth was remarkable. In addition, color difference on blue and yellow textile, $NO_3{^-}$ concentration increase of yellow textile and tensile strength decrease of hemp cloth & ramie cloth were significant. The results suggest that critical $NO_2$ concentration of optical, chemical, and physical damage on Korean traditional textiles are 1ppm/day, 10 ppm/day, 100 ppm/day respectively.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.38
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• pp.233-244
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• 1998

This research wants to find the possibility for new paradigm of modern Korean dress by accepting and harmonizing the tradition and the modernization of Korean design when Korean designers enter into Paris collection and express identity of Korean fashion, and investigates the characteristics of Korean design with concentrating on the works of Young-hee Lee, Shin-woo Lee, Tae-ok Jin who have exhibited their works at Paris Collection. For one of the above characteristics Young-hee Lee, a designer of Korean clothes, emphasized to build up image of Korean fashion as a form of Korea without any modification, and expressed universal western-style silhouette as Korean image by using traditional technique including dyeing and silk made by herself, quil-t and decorative saddle stitching. In the as-pect that a chain of work has made not by westernization of Korean clothes but by re-creation of Korean clothes, it suggested a new way of modern Korean fashion with harmonizing tradition with modernizations as of present based on our own dress tradition and have got good reputation from the press and the field in Paris as well. Therefore the tradition and the modernization of Korean design is not confronted or compromised in form, color, material, motif and decoration but has to be harmonized and reconciled independently in order that visual characteristics of dress can be made as one of Korean image.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.3
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• pp.457-466
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to research the similarity and difference of color application in culture of Korea and China. The subject of this research is the costume color of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. First, a bibliographical inquiry includes the attributes of cultural color in Korea and China and the costume attributes of Changgeuk and Beijing opera. Second, this survey analyzes Munsell's 3 attributes(Hue, Value, Chroma), tone by extracted color data. The results of this study are as follows: 1. The cultural color factors of Korea and China are classified geographical factor, internal cultural factor and external cultural factor. 2. Changgeuk costume much more used high value and medium & low chroma for korean temperate climate. But Beijing opera costume prefers high-medium value and low chroma color, various ranges of color because of China huge land and various climates, as geographical factor. 3. Changgeuk costume much more used YR color(no-dyeing color) because of korean white robe preference. Beijing opera costume much more used R color than Changgeuk costume because of traditional preference of R color, as infernal cultural factor. 4. Changgeuk costume and Beijing opera costume show the practical use of ascetic cole. like as jade green. Ojungsaek much less used than Obangsaek by the theory of exponents of the five elements doctrine, as external cultural factor.