• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.48 no.6
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• pp.1226-1240
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• 2024

The purpose of this literature review is to identify the types of cotton fabrics recorded in the accounting record documents of Song Hwa-seon, a wholesaler in the early 20th century, and to clarify characteristics of each type. First, the changes in the cotton industry in the late Joseon Dynasty were examined through ancient documents and previous studies. Next, the types of fabrics that could be classified as cotton fabrics in Song Hwa-seon's Janggi were extracted, and the frequency of each type was analyzed. Finally, the characteristics of the cotton fabrics recorded in the Janggi were examined through literature and newspaper articles published at the time. The results of the study are as follows. First, the cotton fabrics recorded in the Janggi could be classified into 12 types, with Gwangmok being the most frequent, and Ok-yangmok being the second most frequent. Second, it was confirmed that a significant amount of Western and Japanese cotton textiles, were distributed in the modern Korean market. Third, while imported cotton fabrics of broad width were popular in the early 20th century, it was confirmed that the demand for traditional cotton textiles, characterized by a narrow width was also high in the domestic market.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.41 no.2
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• pp.212-223
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• 2017

This research investigated the screen printing method for natural indigo dye on cotton fabric. We examined four types of thickening agents (arabic gum, guar gum, indalca, and CMC) based on their ability to retard the oxidation of natural indigo print paste while the paste remained on the screen frame. The results indicated that the retardation of arabic gum towards oxidation was the greatest among the four types of thickening agents. The highest K/S value of the printed cotton was observed with a dye concentration of 50g/L fermented indigo powder. The best printing results were obtained when the duration of dye efficiency was tested for the 10 minutes of the dye paste remaining on the screen with a thickening agent concentration of 26.56% that represented 530 cps viscosity. The test of colorfastness to washing and rubbing of the printed cotton resulted in grade 5, and the colorfastness to sunlight resulted in grade 4. Chinese traditional Naminwhapo printing was reproduced on cotton fabric using the natural indigo printing method derived from this study.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.101-109
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• 2010

The objective of this study is to investigate the characteristics of natural indigo dyeing of cotton fabric. Reduction and dyeing were carried out by one-step process using an infrared dyeing machine at the liquor ratio of 1:100, and subsequently oxidation and washing in water were followed. Dye uptake was increased with the increase of indigo concentration. Over the full range of dyeing tests, the dyeing condition was optimized to $40^{\circ}C$ for 40min. For most of dye concentrations, the cotton fabrics showed mainly PB color. Maximum K/S value was shown at 4g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration and the color strength increased with the increase of dye concentration. Value(lightness) decreased with the increase of dye uptake irrespective of mercerization or reduction method, while the mercerized cotton showed two times higher dye uptake than the untreated cotton. Whereas hue of the untreated cotton showed large decrease of P character(5.6~3.5 PB) with the increase of dye uptake, that of the mercerized cotton increased P character(4.7~5.5 PB). Irrespective of mercerization, value and chroma decreased with the increased of dye uptake. In addition, the untreated showed lower chroma than the mercerized cotton. In the case of traditional reduction, hue of the untreated cotton was changed very little with the increase of dye uptake. For hydrosulfite reduction, P character decreased with the increase of dye uptake. The difference of hue value was small with the change of reduction method(hydrosulfite reduction or traditional fermentation). Color character was not influenced by the changed maximum absorption wavelength. Washing fastness showed 4~4/5 shade change rating without any staining. And dry rubbing fastness was good at low color strength. The bacterial reduction ratios of dyed cotton fabric were also increased.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.108-118
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• 2003

Surface properties, including the texture and the luster, of cotton fibers and yarns thereof play an important role in textile technology. The convolutions and the cross-sectional shape of the cotton fiber affect the fabric texture and the luster accordingly. Mercerization of the cotton fabric affects the luster, strength, and other properties of the fabric. In this study, the effect of mercerization was examined on the luster of the cotton fabric, together with the effect of polishing treatment. One of the traditional methods determining the fabric luster is the use of glossmeter or goniometric glossmeter. The use of glossmeter gives successful results in determining the gloss of rather flat and continuous surface such as plastic sheet, painted surface, or paper products. Since the textile fabrics have diverse surface structures and textures, these could be regarded as having three-dimensional surface. Such complexity imposes some difficulties for differentiating subtle surface luster properties of diverse textile fabrics. The advancement in the area of imaging technologies has enabled the micro-scale analysis of the surface textures and the fabric luster recently. Using a CCD camera, the surface luster images were taken at various incident illumination conditions. Microscale analysis, including the blob analysis, of the images could differentiate the subtle luster properties present in a group of cotton fabric samples comprising mercerized cotton fabric, non-mercerized cotton fabric, polished cotton fabric, and a 'standard' cotton fabric. The glossmeter measurement gave satisfactory but limited differentiation among the samples, whose luster differences are easily recognizable with visual observation, except for the mercerized cotton fabric sample and the non-mercerized cotton fabric. The microscale analysis of the fabric luster could, therefore, help understand the nature of diverse textile fabric luster.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.40 no.5
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• pp.855-866
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• 2016

This study explored the concept and use of two kinds of textiles goods (Cheongpo [blue textile] and Samseung) sold by Cheongpo-jeon merchants in the Joseon Dynasty of Korea. Research was conducted based on an analysis of relevant documents published during the Joseon Dynasty. The Cheongpo-jeon was a merchant group that predated 1637. They sold various imported goods such as Cheongpo, Samseung, cotton textiles, felts, hats, incense, and needles. Cheongpo and Samseung were the main products among these imported goods. Cheongpo was a blue cotton textile imported from China that was sold by Chengpo-jeon merchants. The Samseung sold by merchants was a kind of imported textile whose surface provided a feeling like cotton flannel. The concept of the two textiles were different from existing ideas. Generally, the Cheongpo was believed to be a hemp fabric dyed in blue and the Samseung was a textile with a density of three seung (a traditional density unit of textiles). Cheongpo was used as a currency for war supplies during the two Japanese invasions of Korea (1592 to 1598). In addition, it was also used to make military uniforms, tents, and flags after the Japanese invasion. Samseung was used in the combat uniforms of Chinese soldiers from Ming China during the Japanese invasion of Korea. In addition, it was continuously used to make quilted gambeson amour and some of military uniforms until the $19^{th}$ century.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.64 no.7
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• pp.45-56
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• 2014

Embroidery is called 'Ja-Su' in Korea. The purpose of this study is to present a method that utilizes the technology of traditional Korean embroidery to get a genuine feeling of tradition. This study was conducted in the following manner: first, Previous researches and references were used survey traditional embroidery techniques. Second, by using traditional embroidery techniques, the study attempted to develop a design of embroidery household Items with modern sense and practicality. The results of this study are as follows: This study has developed and produced embroidery household items that can be used in modern life by using traditional embroidery techniques. A total of 10 kinds of miscellaneous everyday life utensils and interior pieces were produced. Materials used in the embroidery production were made out of natural fabrics, such as cotton (Kwang-Mok, Mu-Myung), linen, cotton thread were used for a practical reason for practical reasons (i.e. being easily washable). Embroidery techniques used in this study were straight stitch, outline stitch, satin stitch, separate stitch, french knot stitch, long&short stitch, brick stitch, chain stitch, couching stitch, Pad stitch, and pine-leaf stitch. In order to further develop traditional embroidery, a technique passed down from the ancestors, it needs to change to become more suitable for modern life while maintaining the tradition.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.45 no.1
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• pp.180-199
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• 2021

This study investigated natural aroma fragrance on the fashion image of Galchon, a traditional natural dyeing textile made with immature persimmon from the Jeju area, Korea. Nine fabric pairs consisting of differently colored cotton and silk Galchon with various tones and fabric types were used for subjective evaluation. Thirty five female college students evaluated the specimens using a 7-point scale questionnaire for fashion image-related adjectives. A specimen with three different presentation types that included fabric without fragrance (FO), fabric with citrus fragrance, and fabric with chamaecyparis (FCP) were randomly provided to a subject. As a result, color variables of Galchon were found to be the primary influence on fashion images for both cotton and silk Galchon that showed interaction effects with presentation types. The citrus fragrance increased the feeling of 'Active' while chamaecyparis tended to contribute to a stronger perception of 'Elegance' for cotton Galchon. Finally, these results were used to develop prediction models for fashion images of Galchon that employed color variables and presentation types.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.8-15
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• 1996

Three pieces of cotton fabrics used for this study were exhumed in the Mt.Moo Deung near Kwang Ju in 1965. The fabrics were remains of Jang Heung Lim Si-the nephew's wife of General Kim Deok Ryeong. It was reported that Jang Heung Lim Si died in 1615. The cotton fabrics were classified into three, A, B and C, according to their color. The fabric A was inherent color of cotton, the fabric B was that of light brown and the fabric C was that of dark brown. The physical and chemical characteristics of the cotton fabrics were examined. In the meantime the construction of cotton fabrics and traditional dyeing of Yi dynasty were studied through various records. The results were as follows: 1. According to electromicroscopic examination, the lumen in the cotton fiber had not been developed enough, therefore the quality of cotton at that time was supposed to be not so excellent. 2. The results of chemical analysis indicated that: (1) While the copper number of the cotton fabric A was similar to that of bleached cotton, that of the fabric C was extremely high. (2) The amount of methylene blue absorption was much more than that of normal cotton. (3) The content of cellulose was less than that of normal cotton. (4) The degree of polymerization was less than that of normal cotton. From the results mentioned above, it was concluded that the cotton fabrics were oxidized slowly in the closed lime coffin for a long period of time. From this process of oxidization and deterioration, the degree of polymerization was decreased through depolymerization, and carboxyl groups were produced by the oxidization at reducing end groups. 3. It was confirmed that the cotton fabric C was dyed by the juice of immature persimmon. Thus, it was inferred that the large amount of copper number of cotton fabric C was derived from phenolic OH groups of tannins having high reducing properties in persimmon.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.16-24
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• 1995

Traditionally dyeing fabric with dyestuff extracted from Indigo was a popular method of obtaining blue color in the world before synthetic dyestuff was developed in the 1890's. As the Korean traditional process of dyeing extracted from Indigo, there are two kinds of dyeing process; The deposite dyeing of muddy Indigo and the leaf dyeing of Indigo plant. In order to study the properties of leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing properties, color difference on cotton and silk fabrics under several dyeing conditions were investigated. In the dyeing of cotton and silk fabrics with leaf dyeing of Indigo, the dyeing affinity of silk was higher than that of cotton, the cotton and silk fabrics were dyed dark yellowish Green and dark Blue, respectively. the dye uptake increased with the increase of dyeing temperature and of the unmber of dyeing times. When cotton and silk fabrics dyed with leaf dyeing of Indigo at 6$0^{\circ}C$ for six number of times, the K/S value of dyed cotton and silk were calculated 1.286, 2.613 respectively.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.303-316
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• 2006

The present study deals with developing a new modem design of quilt which is characteristic of Korean traditional patterns. The goal of this study is to make some samples of the pattern as a basic motive of quilt work by using some Korean traditional patterns that could be found in roof tiles, windows, Neung-Hwa (a kind of wood cut for printing book covers), and others. This study examines the concept of quilts, their historical background, and their characteristics. This study also examines traditional patterns that are applicable to the patchy work of quilt, discussing the characteristic of both the Korean patterns and Nubi (Korean traditional quilt). In the process of pattern development, the original patterns were simplified and transformed to apply them to the modem quilt pattern. Fabrics (100% cotton) of similar colors were used to emphasize quilting lines. This study has found followings; 1) The geometric pattern usually consists of dots, lines, and faces. These patterns are suitable for pieced quilts. 2) The curvilinear pattern found in roof tiles or Yi-Dynasty coins, can be easily re-expressed by the applique technique. Combinations of fabrics and motive compositions can express quilts in realistic and creative ways. 3) Addition of Korean traditional quilt techniques, such as parallel lines or swastika stitches, to the traditional object-derived quilt patterns led to the creation of images close to the already existing Korean quilt, Nubi.