• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.64 no.2
• /
• pp.17-34
• /
• 2014

This is a theoretical and empirical study on Kasaya, the Buddhist monk's robe, which is one of the traditional Korean costumes that has kept it original form, as well as it being the most symbolic ritual costume in Buddhism. The purpose of the study is to see the different types of Kasaya, and the transitions it has gone through since Mid Joseon Dynasty. The analysis was performed after categorizing Kasaya in the following manner: layers, the way to wear, symbolism in construction, sewing, etc. Having a variety of Ilwolguangcheop(日月光貼) is a feature of Korean Red Kasaya. In the beginning, Its shape was very similar to shape of Hyungbae(胸背), and this was a royal gift and had the same meaning as an official uniform for a Buddhist monk. So designs of the Cheop(貼) could have been transformed from those of Hyungbae with a Buddhist twist. The conclusion of the study is as follows: Double layered Kasaya shows its transition from double layer to single layer. The fastening ornaments have been simplified in all materials from Yeongja(纓子). The latch type and three-paired Yeongja type transformed into hook type and one-paired Yeongja type. Color is the most common feature above all, and it is mainly in red. The form of Korean Kasaya has a significant relation with development of Buddhism. The integration of the Zen sect would have influenced the integration of Kasaya, which shows diversity throughout the period.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.5 no.4
• /
• pp.56-72
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to provide a philosophical basis for a rational, meaningful and systematic development of contemporary Korean fashion and culture industry. The study will begin by comparing traditional aesthetics of Japan and Korea and their respective influences in contemporary fashion design. Japanese aesthetic consciousness can be understood in terms of decorative beauty and undecorated beauty where traditional Korean aesthetic consciousness consists of aesthetic naturalism, beauty of mysticism and beauty of humor. Japanese aesthetic consciousness is generally inclined toward article fanciness, on the other hand, Korean aesthetic consciousness is inclined toward natural beauty. Both Japan and Korea reflect their traditional aesthetic consciousness in their contemporary fashion design. In Japan's case, traditional patterns have been applied to obi(帶, おび). And aesthetic naturalism can be seen in holes, tears and patches present, as well as rough and coarse texture used, in contemporary fashion design. In case of Korea, aesthetic naturalism can be seen in elegant naturally flowing curves and use of plain colored fabric used in fashion design. Beauty of mysticism can be seen in splendid primary colors from shaman ritual costumes, and fortune-telling hexagram patterns. Beauty of humor can be seen in outrageously exaggerated and distorted fit of clothes. The above comparative analysis, with respect to their formative elements, show that both Korean and Japanese contemporary fashion trends reflect and embody their respective traditional aesthetic consciousness. Japan is creating high-grade fashion design of temporal universality and contemporary appeal. Japan has done so by studying their aesthetic tradition from the point of view of philosophy and utilizing its formative elements. Korea, however, is in the middle of transition: Korea is caught between directly grafting traditional aesthetic designs onto contemporary fashion design and integrating the two according to their common internal spirit.

• Sim-seong Yeon-gu
• /
• v.39 no.1
• /
• pp.92-128
• /
• 2024

This study examines Gijesa, a Korean tradition of memorial worship for departed ancestors, from the perspective of analytical psychology. To understand the psychological background of ancestral rites, a literature search was conducted to examine the basis for ancestral spirits, the objects of ancestral rites, the symbolic meaning of the customs and practice of Gijesa, and the contents of volume 3 of the book Jhuza-uryu about 'Ghosts and Ancestral Rituals'. Gijesa, the Korean ancestor worship, may appear as a complicated formal ritual, but it reveals a psychological phenomenon of individuation. Gijesa facilitates a conversation between descendants and ancestors, bridging the conscious and the unconscious, leading to a realization of totality. The creative aspect of spirit worship lies in the 'realization of the individuation process' in that it fosters a connection with the collective unconscious, the root of consciousness. When an individual develops into a new integrated personality, we could gain strength from the support of ancestors, the support of the unconscious. The relationship with the spirits of ancestors is essential because consciousness has an important relationship with its root, the collective unconscious, especially for those of us living in an era of chaos where the fundamental meaning of human existence is lost due to rationalism and materialism.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.18 no.3
• /
• pp.57-70
• /
• 2016

Gutnori(ritual A Comparative Study on Shaman's Costume of south coast Byeolsingut in Korea and the Guizhou Nahui in China play) refers to a play in the form of showing actual appearance of god and actual comedic gag with gutguri rhythm. In order to carry out a comparison between the shaman's costume in Korea and China, this study will delve into the types of shaman costumes that are worn in the gutnoris(mask plays) performed in Korean guts and those of China performed in Nahui. As research method, literature reviews and field surveys have been conducted concurrently. In terms of literature reviews, previous research have been studied centrally. For field surveys, Korean gut, Byeolsingut performance was observed for 2 days 1 night between 1st Feb. 2014-2nd Feb. 2014 in the south coast and Chinese Nahui in Guizhou was observed for 2 days 1 night between 25th Nov. 2014-26th Nov. 2014. By comparing Shaman's costume that is worn in Korean shamanism with that of Chinese shamanism as a partial means of understanding the uniqueness of Korean shaman's costume, the following conclusion was derived upon focusing on the common types of gutnori costumes and organizing them. As a universal trait for shaman's costumes in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, traditional clothing were worn. A unique trait for shaman's costume in gutnori and nahui in Korea and China, deity expressions were shown in both cases using colors.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
• /
• v.29 no.3
• /
• pp.247-261
• /
• 1991

This Study is designed to present the concret data on the contents of the economic role and their change in the recent decade among women in a Korean Village. The Case Study method was used and the data was obtained through the participant observation. This Study is composed of the three parts. The first part deals with the effect of the agricultural mechanization upon the agricultural labor pattern of women. The second part examines how the introduction of a golf course and the textile factory in the vinicity affects the labor pattern among village women. The last part tries to demonstrate that the increasing contribution of women to the village economy has not yet produced any positive effect to their social status in the village. This is seen through the detailed description of two important village activities, one social(Tae dong-Gae) and the other ritual (Mokshinjae). The Results of the Study can be summarized as fallows. Firstly, the mechanization of farming is responsible for the increasing marginalization of women's labor in farming. This is particularly true for rice cultivation. Horticulture is still cultivated by women. As the mechanization progresses further, this trend will be more articulated. Secondly, it is found that women are actively utilizing the new external economic opportunities. In fact they are found to prefer those non-farming works to the traditional farming work. The former offers them less burdened work, less working hours, and more income than the letter. Lastly, women are found to be completely excluded from the process of the two important village activities. Only men are participants in them, and women only provides the labor for preparation of food and the necessary chores.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.60 no.2
• /
• pp.130-143
• /
• 2010

Hanbok industry is not based on a consumer-oriented market system, which is related to poor competitiveness in various areas, such as product planning, marketing, and flow of raw materials. The purpose of this paper is to design and conduct an empirical study on important aspects of consumers. experiences and perspectives about Hanbok, and thereby aims to provide much-needed guidance about ways to promote the Hanbok market. Out of 1065 questionnaires distributed, a total of 1039 was returned with responses and used for analyses. The respondent sample included consumers of various background characteristics in their residential areas, age, gender, education levels, and income levels. Cronbach's alpha and a factor analysis were employed for the reliability and the construct validation of the survey instrument. One-way ANOVA associated with post-hoc comparison tests was used to investigate differences across different demographic subgroups of consumers. The results show that consumers generally view Hanbok as one of the formal dresses, worn one or two times per year for traditional events or ceremonies. Consumers tend to show negative opinions about the pricing, and the inconvenience in cleaning and wearing Hanbok. However, consumers think very highly of the aesthetic values, the gracious styles, and the iconic identity of nationalism of Hanbok. This study suggests that Hanbok for modern consumers should be considered as clothing for a ritual, rather than clothing to reconstruct to be fitted to modern daily lives. Hanbok should be promoted as part of up-scaled and differentiated traditional cultures, as clothing that represents and enhances the traditional elegance and beauty unique to the Korean people.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.31 no.4
• /
• pp.325-338
• /
• 2016

The objective of this study was to review Dasik's recipe of Jong-Ga in the Gyeongbuk area. Main methods of this study were literature review and in-depth interview. To study the historical transition of traditional Dasik, analysis of 11 cooking books from the 1400's to 1800's was carried out. Jong-Ga was made using Dasik and main ingredients were Songhwa, Kka and Kong Dasik. Special Dasik was in nine of Jong-Ga (Ipjae's head family of Pungyang Jo's clan, Sojea head family Gwangju No's clan, Sawoodang head family Uiseong Kim's clan, Heobaekdang's head family of Bukye Hong's clan, Taechon's head family of Gyeseong Go's clan, Gwiam's head family of Gwangju Lee's clan, Songdang's head family of Milyang Park's clan, Haeweol's head family of Pyeonghae Hwang's clan, Galyam's head family of Jaeryoung Lee's clan) and Dasik are Gamphi dasik, Heukimja dasik, Baksulgi dasik, Tibap dasik, Daechu dasik, Yukpo dasik, Misutgaru dasik, Dotori dasik and Omija Dasik. It was used as a ritual food and reception food for guests. These recipes are good examples of functional and modern of Korean food. In the future, Dasik as well as discovery of ingredients in other foods of Jong-Ga are needed

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.19 no.1
• /
• pp.71-79
• /
• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Food Culture
• /
• v.29 no.6
• /
• pp.488-498
• /
• 2014

The research aimed to provide accurate and basic data comparing different perceptions of head family's food and food for religious ceremonies depending on age with the goal of sustaining traditional Korean food in the future. The gender distribution of the participants was 274 Males (42.5%) and 370 Females (57.5%). Age distribution was 211 participants (32.7%) in their 20s, 215 participants (33.3%) in their 30 to 40s, and 220 participants (34%) in their 50 to 60s. The older generation appeared to beaware of the definition of head family or 'The eldest's house of head family' as well as the concept of one's family five generations ago with more reductive and emphasis than imaginary concept of head family of the younger generation. The image of the head family was perceived as 'head family's food' in younger generations and as 'eldest son' in older generations. Family role and meaning most often manifested as 'succession of tradition' and 'cultural symbols' in younger generations, respectively, whereas older generations responded 'hallmark of the head family'. Family ancestral rites and head family's food had positive effects on awareness of head family's food. Moreover, those with experience in practicing family ancestral rites responded that head family's food should be more popular. People who viewed family's food more positively were more open with the idea thathead family's food could go mainstream. In conclusion, positive perception of head family's food and traditional pride are crucial environmental factors in public support of popularizing head family's food to the public.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.30 no.1 s.149
• /
• pp.94-105
• /
• 2006

This study is focused on the man's costumes of Sadangpae(the troupe of performers) shown in Gamrotaenghwa (감로탱화) during the late Chosun dynasty. Originally Gamrotaenghwa was used as a painting for a Buddhist praying ceremony, 또Young-ga-cheon-do-je(영가천도제). It shows us the lives of the commoners in those days. Gamrotaenghwa reflects the changes of costume style in the late Chosun period. The early styles of po(포, coat) for male performers in the 17th century were changeui(창의) and dopo(도포), which had the front panels(seop) overlapped deeply and sleeves that got wider as time passed. After the 18th century, Male performers wore a simpler coat such as sochangeui(소창의), which had narrow sleeves and long slits on the both sides. Especially the coats of acrobats were fastened on the center front with buttons. Heuklip(흑립: black hat), somoja(소모자: small cap) and jeonlip(전립: wool hat) were used as hats for the male performers. Originally, heuklip was the hat that represented the noble status: yangban(양반). However, it was popularized among the commoners in the late Chosun period. As time passed on, the heuklip became more popular and its shape also changed. Somoja and jeonlip were shown throughout the entire Gamrotaenghwa. Unlike heuklip, those were common hats for Sadangpae. The costumes of entertainers shown in Gamrotaenghwa were very similar to those of the commoners. However, it seems that there were some differences of the costumes depending on the roles they performed.