Diamond mechanical polishing (DMP) is a crucial process in a sapphire wafering process to improve flatness and achieve the target thickness by using free abrasives. In a DMP process, material removal rate (MRR) is a key factor to reduce process time and cost. Controlling mechanical parameters, such as velocity and pressure, can increase the MRR in a DMP process. However, there are limitations of using high velocities and pressures for achieving a high MRR owing to their side effects. In this paper, we present the lapping characteristics and improvement of MRR by using a fixed abrasive plate through an experimental study. The change in MRR as a function of velocity and pressure follows Preston's equation. The surface roughness of a wafer decreases as the plate velocity and pressure increases. We observe a sharp decrease in MRR over the lapping time at a high velocity and pressure in the velocity and pressure test. An analysis of surface roughness (Rq and Rpk) indicates that wear of abrasives decreases the MRR sharply. In order to investigate the effect of abrasive wear on the MRR, we utilize a cutting fluid and a rough wafer. The cutting fluid delays the wear of abrasives resulting in improvement of MRR drop. The rough wafer maintains the MRR at a stable rate by self-dressing.
This study investigated the color culture in the Japanese Medieval Age. The Japanese Medieval Age included the Kamakura period (1180-1333) and Muromachi period (1336-1573), and the leading group transitioned from the Kuge families to the Buke families. The taboos about colors from ancient times became nominal, and forbidden colors, such as purple, celadon, and red, became the colors of the samurai, leading to beautiful soldier gears that were unparalleled in history. In the Kamakura period, colors that conveyed a strong impression were created and preferred with the combination of a samurai's reasonable spirit and zen thoughts. The period was also called "the era of hari", and cross dyeing based on basic colors such as suou (red), ai (blue), and kuchinasi (yellow) was popular. In both the Kamakura and Muromachi periods, conspicuous and strong colors were sought for costumes, and embroidery was used with gold leaf, silver leaf, gold threads, silver threads, and background color. The colors of costume preferred by Buke men in the period included green, blue, and brown. In the characteristics of the kosode, the sugan and hitadare were used for men's formal dress, while kosode was used for the grooming of the working class. In these periods, additionally, the working class began to be socially engaged in actively wearing the one-layer kosode, which became popular, and the characteristics of the Japanese Medieval Age, during which functionality and practicality was valued, were also reflected in the dressing.
The purpose of this thesis was to investigate the transitional aspects of the power shoulders with a comparative analysis of the patterns observed from the late 20th century to the present. The method of study was through review of papers as well as phenomenological approaches. Books, domestic and international journals, and dissertations were studied as part of the paper review. Phenomenological study was performed by analyzing the pictures from late 20th to present; and categorized by 10 year time span i. e., 1980-1990, and 2002-2012. Hundred representative fashion photos were selected, respectively. As a result, the power shoulder found in late 20 centuries was largely limited to horizontal and diagonal shape, addressed mainly to the jackets; while they were straight, and wide shouldered, with emphasis on masculine style. On the other hand, in early 21 century, the power shoulder was applied in various forms of straight, diagonal, circular and ornamental with objects, not only to the jackets, but also to feminine styles such as one-piece dress, vest, and blouse. This finding may be attributed to the fact that the modern people desire newer trends and women tend to show off their ability in transcending those of men. The findings of analysis of the transitional aspects of power shoulder in this thesis might contribute as basic resources for anticipating the trends that might be revived in the future.
The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of Dot Pattern Size(0.8, 1.8, 2.5, 5, 8), color combination(W/Bk, Bk/Gr, Gr/W), Area-Ratio(Background/Dot, Dot/Background) on wearing dot-printed dresses image. Sets of stimulus and response scales(7 point semantic) were used as experimental materials. The stimuli were 30 color pictures manipulated with the combination of Dot Pattern Size, color combination, and Area-Ratio using computer simulation. The subjects were 180 female undergraduates living in Gyeongnam-do. The data was analyzed by using SPSS program. Analyzing methods were ANOVA and LSD test. Image factor of the stimulus was composed of 5 different components, visibility, chastity, attractiveness, cuteness and feminity. Among them, the visibility and chastity were important. Each dimensional image was affected by dot pattern size, color combination and Area-Ratio. In the visibility image, color combination(W/Bk is the most effective) is more influential, the larger size is effective pattern. In the cuteness and feminity image, area ratio(low-brightness dot pattern is the more effective) is more effective than color combination or dot pattern size. Even the same dot pattern size and area was recognized as different image depending on the area ratio. According to the variation of dot pattern size, color combination and area-ratio, it was investigated that the images for a dress wearer were expressed diversely, were shown differently in image dimensions, and could be produced to different images.
The purpose of this study is to study the movie costume and color image through the movie"Vertigo". Firstly, looking into the clothing style and the color image of the characters expressed in the movie, Scottie who had the physical limitation had phobia of height, and he was expressed with the gray color to show his lethargic feeling from his physical limitation. And, after the death of Madeleine, it expressed his sense of loss and depressed mind through the blue color. The comparison of green and red color that was used to link the two characters in Madeleine and her substitution, Judy, mystified her, and the image of dreamy Madeleine has been inscribed to Scottie. In addition, the green color expressed her unstable mind. The clothing expression of Judy is expressed with her unstable mind through the detailed clothing, unlike Madeleine. And, the black color expressed the false identity of her and the Madeleine image of his own for Scottie. The type of clothing is expressed in separates suit and overcoat that are representative ones in 1950s, and black dress with the square neckline and others expressed the silence on conspiracy of Gavin and the false identity of her. Secondly, the color image expressed in the background in the movie as a special space for Scottie and Madeleine. The blue color image for Scottie was shown to be as space for death and the green image for Madeleine as a fantasy.
Nam, Jin-Hee;Peksoz, Semra;Branson, Donna H.;Cao, Huantian
International Journal of Human Ecology
/
v.13
no.1
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pp.117-128
/
2012
This study compares the net effect of wearing different shoulder/arm armor systems on garment impediment perception and wearer acceptability. Two independent variables in this study were armor systems and shoulder/ arm movements. There were four armor systems of control garment and arm armor systems A, B, and C as well as five types of arm/shoulder movements, (shoulder flexion, should extension, shoulder abduction, shoulder horizontal flexion, and shoulder horizontal extension). Ten male volunteers wearing size medium battle dress uniform (BDU) with recent relevant military experience participated in this study. The volunteers performed shoulder/arm movements (while wearing each armor treatments) and completed the garment impediment perception as well as wearer acceptability scales. The body areas of neck side, shoulder top, and armscye front showed the highest frequency of reported impediments. Resistance to movement and localized pressure were the most frequently mentioned types of impediment. The armor system B had the most areas of impediment, and was rated as more restrictive than the control garment and armor system A for each movement. For wearer acceptability, no significant differences were found between the control garment and armor system A for all eight items; this indicated that subjects did not perceive a difference between wearing the control garment and armor system A. There was a trend for wearer acceptability to decrease from wearing the control garment to armor systems A to C to B.
The purpose of this study was to measure patients satisfaction and expectation with hospital foodservices, and thereby identify areas for improvement and provide basic data for the introduction of total quality management with hospital foodservices. This survey was carried out on 383 hospitalized patients of 7 hospitals in Deagu, Busan, Changwon with 350 beds to determine the quality satisfaction with foodservices. The subjects were 50.5% male and 49.5% female. 62.6% of the subjects were over 40 age, 31.4% were only educated to middle school or below, 28.3% were hospitalized for 7-14 days. The mean score for taste of diet was 2.79, temperature 3.23, appearances 2.96. Most subjects agreed with following foodservice characteristics that meals of movement (4.03), dress of employees (3.84), kindness of employees and meals arrived exactly the same time every day (3.47) and cleanliness of foods (3.34) and dishes (3.33). The unsatisfied quality attributies were information provide (2.82), variety of the meals (2.91), mixing of meals (2.95), the opportunity to meet with a dietitian (2.97) and prompt dealings with meal complaints (3.01). Most subjects expectation that the decrease the multiple of menus, increase provide of fruits in hospital meals and selective menus in hospital foodservices operations. In conclusion, it would seem to be desirable that hospital foodservices departments introduce selective menus, quality assurance, and increase the meal rounding of dietitians in the patient foodservice.
Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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v.17
no.2
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pp.111-124
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2015
This study inferred the symbolism of shaman's costume in China from shamanism and types of shaman's costume in Naje, Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong, China through field survey. Shamanism in China has complicated aspects due to negotiations with other culture for a long time while maintaining its own consistency based on ethnicity. Symbolism of shaman's costume in Naje, Guiju-seong, China is observed as follows. First, the shaman's costume in China appears differently from every Jangcha in relation to the position of god appearing in Jangcha when Tolosa takes the position of god as a symbol of sex and god. In Naje of China, the most important shaman's costume indicating the position of god has a unique mask for every deity. It communicates that Tolosa wearing a costume appropriate for the god of wine shall become the god in that Jangcha. Second, the shaman's costume in China has something to do with Yin-Yang and the five elements theory of Taoism as a symbol of shamanism visio of the universe and system of reason. Most of Tolosas hosting Naje are men but dress up as women by wearing Nagun looking like a skirt. Nagun is usually red, the color of Yang, which symbolizes that by wearing such costume that takes color of Yang, Tolosa expels an ominous thing by balancing yin and yang and taking god's strong power. Third, Tolosa takes an eight-breadth Nagun, as a symbol of people. An eight-breadth worn by Tolosa in Naje strengthens the spirit of union and fight of the Tujia nationality who live in Deokgang-hyun, Guiju-seong through folk legends. In this course, a symbolic meaning of the national spirit has been provided on an eight-breadth Nagun, a shaman's costume.
The purpose of this research is to develop a design model of a smart jacket incorporating MP3 functionality for commercial use, as one of the digital lines of textile to apply If technology. In order to conduct this study, the previous studies were analyzed and usability and wearability tests were conducted using five prototype design models of smart wear with MP3 functionality. Accordingly, the smart jacket incorporating MP3 functionality for commercial use, for which user-centered interface, usability and wearability were completed, was developed by optimizing the design and location of the input interface, control module, the path of wires and earphone etc., based on textile wire and keypad. The smart jacket targets the female dress market from late-teens to early twenties. It will be a high value commodity considers all aspects of recent fashion trends, consumers' emotional satisfaction and the value of digital wear.
The purpose of this study is for providing not only the latest design technique trend for zero waste fashion, but information about creative fashion design education through eco-fashion industry trend in globally and domestic which is focusing on eco-fashion labelling. The research were processed with literature related eco, sustainable, green fashion books, former articles, newspapers, and web sites. The results as follows; The certification about eco-fashion product is moving to 'Life Cycle Assessment' from focused on primary process like material, finishing, dyeing. Especially simplicity of process means reducing the wastes. And fabric wastage for adult outwear was estimated 15% percent of total fabric used in general design studios. Three cases for Zero waste fashion were as follows; First, Jigsaw puzzle by Timo Rissane and Mark Liu were different zero waste methods, but the result was same. Rissene's method was based on traditional cutting like 'cut and sew' but traditional cutting can lead to design that have an abundance of fabric and drape. Jigsaw of Rissene was approached with description a pattern-cutting technique in which all piece interlock with each other generating no waste from design production. Another Jigsaw by Liu was related with innovative textile design. DTP makes the possibilities for zero waste garment production almost endless. The dress intricately cut from 10 pieces, wastes none of the fabric required to make it. Second, Subtraction Cutting by Julian Roberts provides unexpected fluid, organic forms and zero waste fabric. Utilizing Roberts plug(tunnel) technique enables any part of the garment that is removed for fit or aesthetics to be reincorporated into the design of garment. Third was 'Bio Couture' by Suzanne Lee. She has created garments from cellulose bacteria which grow in a bathtub using only green methods addressing in such as way ecological issues and exploring the future of fashion design in conjunction with technology.
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