• 복식
• /
• 제48권
• /
• pp.53-70
• /
• 1999

The theatre costume in English Renaissance which is scarce in its historical materials can be inferred and imaginarily reconstructed from classifying it according to types of theatre costumes and considering its specific form in that age. The history of fashion could be also approached in the light of theatre costumes and it might be some help to the present theatre costume. Thus the purpose of this thesis is for contributing to the study of theatre costume by inferring the English Renaissance theatre costume from classifications and research of its pattern in detail. This thesis consists of the overview of the periodical background of English Renaissance and then analysis of the stage surroundings ar that time and classification of the theater costume acording to the types and finally inferences of the pattern of forms of the theatre costume. The theatre costume in English Renaissance can be divided into these group:(1) for foreigners such as Roman Turk Spanish and Jews (2) for supernatural beings such as a nymph god, goddess, ghosts, and witches(3) for professionals such as a clown, a clergyman. doctors and senators(4) for cast of animals such as a lion a bear and pigs. In the Elizabethan period theatre costumes were used together with Elizabethan costumes on the stage. Generally the theatre costumes in the age were typically made of very expensive materials and spectacles to the audience and compensating for the poor stage settings.

• 한국생활과학회지
• /
• 제10권2호
• /
• pp.225-235
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study is to find out the changes for the first birthday's costume in westernizing Korea society of the twentieth century. For this study, I analysed the related literature for the first half the twentieth century due to the lack of relevant photographs, while I used the method of content analysis of 136 photographs for the second half of the twentieth century. According to the analysis of photographs, first birthday's costume for girls dressed up was more different than those for boys. But first birthday's costume items for boys were more than those for girls. Generally first birthday's costume consists of Bokkon Jeonbok Jeogori(Sackdong) and Baji for boy's, Chima and SackdongJeogori for girl's. Because the meanings and look of Hogun, Durumagi, Sagusam, Busun and Baeza are good, those items might be to used for first birthday's costume in the future. To establish better first birthday's culture and costume in Korea, it is important to educate people involved in related business for traditional costume. Because most of first birthday's costume are usually borrowed for photographs. Also item and design for the first birthday's costume should be studied in order to improve traditional cultural products.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제30권4호
• /
• pp.623-632
• /
• 2006

This study discusses the traditional costume of Korea and Japan and cognitive factors affecting its recognition by conducting a survey on both Korean and Japanese students so that comparative analysis of the differences about whether to rent or own traditional costume and about whether the students surveyed have visited the other country reciprocally, can be made to set the future course of the traditional costume which have gradually been worn less frequently and favored by less people. College students of Japan and Korea were chosen for this study and asked to fill in a questionnaire. 491 respondents were analyzed using SPSS10.0 for frequency analysis, factors analysis and t-test. Findings of this study are as follows: Firstly, there were 7 factors affecting the Korean student's recognition of Hanbok while 6 factors involved in Japanese student's recognition of Kimono. Korean students thought highly of the traditional costume and yet had less knowledge of it compared to the Japanese students. Secondly, analysis of the student's recognition of their counterpart's traditional costume showed that there were equally 4 factors affecting the student's recognition. Students found the traditional costume difficult to wear and uncomfortable when worn. Japanese students regarded Hanbok as an abstract form of the traditional Korean culture while Korean students viewed Kimono as a realistic form of something concrete. Thirdly, analysis of the differences about the recognition based on the student's owning or renting the traditional costume. or visiting the counterpart's country, showed that students owning the traditional costume were more positive about the traditional costume and well versed in it. And students having visited their counterpart's country thought more favorably of the traditional costume of their counterpart.

• 복식
• /
• 제59권3호
• /
• pp.157-165
• /
• 2009

This study intends to discuss the efficient stage costume design that uses costume-rentals and production method as a realistic alternative for production of stage costume of low budget performance. Directly participating in the costume design and production of the performance , this researcher applied the methodology of corroborative study on the basis of production process and results by referring to the papers and literature published by academic society for the theory necessary for study. Centering around the western costume in the stage costumes of , the scope of study was the costume of Paris, France prevalent at the end of the 19th century which is epochal background of performance. In spite of its merit of reducing production charge and production in the low budget performance, costume-rentals is subject to the lack of considering unitγ with other visual factors and limit in reflecting the creativity of costume designer. The following actions shall be taken to solve such problem. First, it is essential to set production direction and plan that meets budget and work concept. Second, it is required to highlight the characteristic factor of the age which is the background of work so as to grant the sense of age and to produce the visual unity of costume by supplementing the costume composition. Third, it is necessary to make large effect with low lost by using costume articles that can express the characteristics of the age. Fourth, it is required to efficiently reflect the transformation of design by minimizing the damage of costume through research on the sewing method and materials as well as creative idea. In this way, the efficient stage costume could be realized in the performance with low budget by approaching costume-rentals in the viewpoint of costume design, transforming it in accordance with work concept and adding the visual factors.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권4호
• /
• pp.162-178
• /
• 2010

The purpose of this study is to find aesthetic characteristics of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes in Modernization that happened in Korea and Japan during the late 19th century and the 20th century. The meaning of modernity has indefinite and comprehensive aspects, and the essence of modernity is found in searching for new changes. Modernization is the process of realizing modernity, and costume modernization can be discussed from the viewpoint of seeking new changes, functionality and popularization of costume. As Korean and Japanese costumes went through modernization, western costume became daily clothes of both two countries. The modernization of Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes were achieved in the two directions. First, Korean and Japanese women's traditional costumes changed to search for functionality modeled of western costume. Korean costume went through dress reform movement and were generally simplified. Japanese costume made a change of wearing mode and introduced new garment like 'Hakama'. Second, the new style of traditional costume appeared. In Korea, 'Saenghwal Hanbox' was shown in the late 20c and in Japan, The reproduced dress(更生服)' and The women's standard dress(婦人標準服)' were shown in the late 1930's and the early 1940's. These kinds of new garment style were the more active compromise between the East and the West.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제8권1호
• /
• pp.137-144
• /
• 2006

Though old generation criticizes on costume play that it is accepted by young generation without any criticism, it is gaining popularity and is settled with unique Korean characteristics. The study is to understand the characteristics of costume play and investigate on the attitude of costume players enjoying it. For this study, a survey was conducted on costume players who order tailor-made costumes or rent them by using references, existing papers and internet sites. The results are as follows. 1.37% of costume players live in Seoul and Gyeonggi area, 37% in Gyeongsang-do and Busan with 21% in other areas. Two areas shows higher rate than any other regions, as Seoul Comic and Busan Comic are held regularly and there are faster exchange with Japanese culture in these areas with enough money 2. Among costume players, female accounts for 73.7% with 26.3% male. It shows that female likes costume play more than male. It is because woman responds actively to what she likes than man does. The number of male is steadily increasing. By age, high school student is 40%, middle school student is 36%, older than 20 is 16% with 3% of elementary school student. 3.61% of them like the reproduction of character costumes, 14.7% like Pancos and another 14.7% likethe reproduction of character costumes and creation. 69.5% participates in costume play both in groups and individuals, 26.3% in groups and 4.2% in individuals. 45.3% participates in comic more than 8 times in a yew, 43.2%, 1-2 times and 11.6%, 3-4 times. Mostly they want $50,000{\sim}80,000$ won costume. 4. on the criticism of old generation that costume play is nothing but the imitation of Japanese culture, 87.4% of the respondents answered 'absolutely not' They think costume play is one of their favorite cultures. 5. on the parents response to costumeplay, 87% of the respondents answered 'Ethey understand', 13% said 'they cannot understand and dissent'. The respondents said costume play didn't affect their school records with 25% respondents who said they got better grades.

• 복식
• /
• 제62권2호
• /
• pp.26-39
• /
• 2012

This study intends to reconsider pleat, which was undermined as something too simple to express the details for women's costume, by focusing on the aesthetic value of plea in men's costumes in the west before the 20th century. Furthermore, based on the aesthetic value of the pleat, diverse studies on contemporary men's costumes shall help to attempt to set up a basis for the new mode of men's costume. The pleat, a component in the costume since the ancient times, had unique characteristics including functionality, a sense of volume, directing effect that is caused by line repetitions and formativeness that results through elasticity. First, the aesthetics of the pleat before the 20th century shows rhythmic sense through the repetition of the pleat line as shown in the drape type costume, and it also shows a sense of volume as the pleat is moved along the motion of the body. Second, it shows functionality as the expansion of space moves in accordance with the motion of body sets up an internal space of the costume that facilitates body motion. Third, the pleat extends two dimension space into three dimension space using its elasticity. It exaggerates specific parts of the costume while ignoring body shape in order to symbolize status and authority of men. Fourth, it unifies the costume by wrapping the body by using quadrangle cloths with drapers, and expanding the silhouette with the pleat artificially to conceal the physical character and personality of the wearer. The physical character of the wearer disappears into the space made by the pleat. The pleat reveals the voluptuous beauty within.

• 복식
• /
• 제24권
• /
• pp.177-192
• /
• 1995

The purpos대 f this research was to figure out clothing imagery underlying Shakepeare's King Lear and transfer it into actual stage costume. Three steps were taken in order to achieve the purpose . The first step exemined theoretical background of the Shakepeare's imagery. The second step reviewed a wide spectum of stage costume used in the last four centuries. The final step was to design and produced actual stage costume focusing on Lear, while considering clothing imagery drawn from the previous steps. King Lear contained rich clothing imagery which could contrast the relationship between material and spirit. In particular, it shed light on the contrast between Lear's divesting and Edgar's wearing and denoted that wearing and divesting processes were closely related to spiritual and status changes. A review of stage costume used for four centuries was prepared in order to understand how clothing imagery was applied in producing stage costume. It was found that their stage costume was reflecting clothing imagery captured from the analysis of king Lear. On the basis of this review, this research presented Lear's stage costume which applied clothing imagery drawn from King Lear. In producing stage costume , actual stage costume used Elizabethan fashion as its basic color and pattern. It also utilized modern clothing production techniques and ornaments acceptable in these days. As Lear was depicted as a character who underwent spiritual and status changes in the process of divesting , his costume was produced in line with this clothing imagery (i.e., divesting). The long journey of reviewing and analyzing King Lear from a stand point of clothing reassured us, on the one hand, the importance of stage costume. On the other hand, it established the groundwork for developing the methodology of fashion design by applying clothing imagery drawn from literature to design and production of stage costume.

• 복식
• /
• 제57권10호
• /
• pp.129-141
• /
• 2007

In the cultural realm of Hinduism centering around India, traditional costumes such as Sari, and Dhoti are worn up to date under the influence of religious faith, tradition, and fundamentalism. The purpose of this study is to clarify the religious meaning of unstitched traditional Indian costume and inquire into the figurative beauty of it. This study revolved around India, and the aesthetic feature affected by hinduism was examined based on the literature references and the figurative feature and aesthetic value of unstitched costume were analyzed. The most important feature of Indian costume is the unstitched costume without joining pieces of cloth by using a needle and thread, symbolizing the purity based on the cosmology of Hindu. In the unstitched costume of India, natural drapery that is the large cloth, slipped or tied on body, wrapping it affluently, is emphasized. Unstitched costume of India, based on cosmology of Hindu and the concept of purity, is still broadly worn by people under the influence of fundamentalism and conservative atmosphere. Religious idea is expressed and a beauty of concealment, emphasizing the chastity, is shown in the unstitched costume of India, while a beauty of nature is distinctively revealed in the non-structural and asymmetric drapery costume due to the unique wearing style. In addition, 'A beauty of symbolism' appears in the wearing method, color, the part of wearing, and ornament. Religion has affected overall culture that is inclusive art, aesthetics, and social structure and has contributed to the formulation of costume style. Unstitched costume of India is the unique tradition of India and identity, based on the religious idea.

• 복식
• /
• 제60권5호
• /
• pp.71-87
• /
• 2010

The purpose of the study is analyzing Japanese modern costume, through examining legislation process and the relics of Chickimkwan's and Juimkwan's court costume. The results of the study are as follows. First, the proposer of civil court costume, established in 1872, was Iwakura Mission dispatched to America and Europe. The Mission realized the importance of preparing western-style costume in civilization from experience wearing traditional clothing at ceremony of presenting credentials in America. Afterwards, the Mission proposed that the government accept western-style as civil court costume and became first wearers in Japanese in England. Second, the difference, between ordinance and actual clothes worn by Iwakura Mission, occurred in process of legislation in 1872. That might be considered as trial and error in introducing different culture. The coexistence of England and French styles was unified into French style by the revision of civil court costume in 1886. Third, the pattern of paulownia embroidered on civil court costume was utilized as symbol of Japan. While the costume of Chickimkwan was embroidered by the pattern of 7 and 5 leaves paulownia, that of Juimkwan was 5 and 3 leaves expressing their grades. Fourth, relics research showed how formed manufacturer information and enacted design were in embroidery. The relics seemed to be manufactured in Japan, because emblem of Mitsukosi tailor was embroidered on inner part of the back of collar of Chickimkwan in Nara Women's University, Japan and that of Yamasaki on left inner pocket of Juimkwan in the Independence Hall, Korea. The embroider techniques comprised forming by filler particles according to the design, filling up coiled gold threads and expressing stem with gold threads and spangles. As preemptive study, establishment process of Japanese civil court costume in this study will help understand form characteristics appeared in civil court costume act of Korean Empire.