• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.1191-1204
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• 2014

Even though a Han-bok, or traditional Korean costume, should be inherited since it is invaluable part of our culture, research on Han-bok is scarce. Since the development of a Jeogori pattern, the upper garment of Korean traditional clothes, is done mostly based on the chest size, the design does not completely consider on wearer's body shape. Moreover, unless made by an expert, trial and error is almost always necessary to improve the fit of the clothes. In this research, a Jeogori pattern was suggested that improves the fit based on the shape of the upper back(straight or bent) of a female in her late 20s who often wears a Han-bok and is comfortable when moving. Using a 3D virtual clothing system, the optimum pattern was selected based on the body shape. The final selection was made, and each subjects tried the garment on to evaluate the comfort when moving, along with its appearance, based on a seven point Likert scale. As a result, for a straight body shape, the optimum ease for the front bust width was 2.5cm, and that for the back bust width was 2.0cm. The optimum center back dart was 1.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 7.6cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 2.0cm. For the bent body shape, the optimum ease for the front and back bust was 2.0cm. The optimum Geodae width was 8.4cm, and the optimum back Geodae point was 1.5cm. Furthermore, if the Hwajang slope was set at half of the vertical distance between the laterals of the neck and shoulder, a fitted silhouette appeared, which is preferred nowadays. In the appearance evaluation, the final pattern designed in this research received higher scores than the original design(straight; p<.001, bent; p<.05). The results of the evaluation of the comfort when moving also showed higher scores for the final pattern that was designed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.5
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• pp.443-452
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• 2003

People have been getting interested in the Orientalism and it has come up in various areas due to scientific progress. I designed uniforms, which was simple and western, to show its symbolic meanings in the Orientalism. And I have been trying to generalize uniforms with originality and beauty. I have studied the process of the Orientalism and its changes and transitions, concepts and origins in history. And I applied the styles of Korean, Japanese and Chineses costume on it. I also referred to characters of uniforms, which already had images of Korea, Japan and China. Firstly, Korean styles have a contrast in colors by application of Taegeuk. And they gave lines with dark colors in black one-piece dress. This makes people who are wearing looking slimmer. White ramie top looks fresh and Korean traditional tie called Maedeup is set up for button. Secondly, Japanese styles were mainly Kimono style, one piece. They changed into two pieces designed to be active. So, it has emphasized the image of Kimono with Obi at the waist. Thirdly, Chinese styles basically are Chipao style, which has a Chinese collar and a long skirt, which has opening. But they gradually changed into short skirts and more open in the chest. For one of them, they gave lines in the side of chest, sleeves and skirt to be more natural. The costumes have kept their positions as a part of mass society that grows and changes with speed. And oriental uniforms are not just uniforms any longer only for work. It is quite symbolic like a 'second face' as it represents images for their countries and enterprises.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.34 no.12
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• pp.2022-2038
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• 2010

Our study was designed to provide some insights on positive country image and the mechanisms of influence that Asian fashion industries can draw upon for future benefit. We focused on a country image and fashion products with Asian ethnic influence. Asian traditional costume elements reflected in contemporary fashion products may be important representative tools for national cultural identity. This study qualitatively investigated how and to what extent country image and additional information influence the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress. We conducted four focus-group interviews (FGI) with 30 students from a fashion program at a university in the United States. We analyzed the evaluation of fashion products influenced by Chinese, Japanese, and Korean traditional dress, and their associations with country image. Our qualitative analysis offered more developed empirical evidence for the various paths through which country image affects the evaluation of fashion products influenced by the ethnic dress of Asians. The results of our study showed that the more direct the source of prior knowledge, the larger the influence on product evaluation. This study showed that certain cues in the evaluation of fashion products with Asian ethnic influence induce changes in the affective state (that stem from the psychological and social nature of fashion products) and illustrate the necessity of considering the affective processes involved in the appropriate use of the country image. In the fashion industry, extrinsic properties such as the country image significantly influence the attitude and purchasing decisions of consumers. The significance of this study lies in its verification of the relationship between the country image and additional information. Modular and situational-contextual influences are also revealed as important factors that deserve more attention, as well as considerations regarding the dimensions of the country image described in attitude theory.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.8
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• pp.1312-1322
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• 2006

A recent accelerated globalization has changed every aspect of consumers' life on the globe, thus understanding the similarity and the difference among people in the world became the crucial element of business for many global companies. As one of the most globalized industries in Korea, fashion businesses also require urgent assistance of academics in understanding global consumers. This study aimed to analyze cross-cultural fashion marketing studies published in two respectful journals in fashion studies: Journal of Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles and Journal of the Korean Society of Costume. Four researchers independently searched the target journals to locate studies using cross-cultural approaches. A total of 45 cross-cultural studies published in two journals between 1977 and 2005 were found and analyzed. The major findings could be summarized as followed. First, the US was the most frequently studied country followed by China, Japan, Hong Kong and others. Second, popular subjects of cross cultural studies in fashion marketing were fashion marketing environment and management rather than consumer psychology. Third, about 78% of the sampled studies were using quantitative approach, and statistical methods such as factor analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and $X^2$ analysis were commonly used. Finally, problems in sampling methods, translation of scales, and equivalence of concept, measure and sample were analyzed. Suggestions for future cross-cultural studies were discussed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.21 no.4
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• pp.412-419
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• 2019

This study is to help maintain the identity of traditional Korean culture and develop fashion culture products by applying images and composition forms of traditional lattice patterns for vest designs. Lattice can be distinguished as a shape created through intersecting vertical and horizontal lines, in the form of oblique lines in vertical and horizontal structures, and in the form of an oblique line. Lattice patterns represent the overall unity and order as well as the beauty of small spaces created by simple lines. Traditional lattice patterns of the Joseon Dynasty were examined theoretically through the literature. Based on theoretical grounds, there is study illustrates vest designs using Adobe Illustrator CS6 as well as works on a 3D virtual costume using CLO Trial 4.2, a 3D virtual dressing system of CLO Virtual Fashion. This study developed an easy to wear vest design categorized as clothes for both men and women. The geometric formality of the lattice pattern has been applied to fashion culture products. In this study, the design was developed focusing on lattice, kotsal (flower pattern), sosulbitsal (diagonal), sotdaesal, tisal (horizontal & vertical). This study can be used as basic data in the domestic fashion cultural product market that can help maintain the originality of Korean culture in the global era that also assists in the successful promotion of Korean culture and traditions.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.37 no.4
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• pp.452-466
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• 2013

The Silla Dynasty was an open society and was an independent, creative, brilliant culture built on diverse cultures and values. Transforming from the Silla Dynasty to the Unified Silla, it unified the culture of the Three Kingdoms into one. It also displayed unique clothes that adapted new foreign elements into rich clothes forms unlike previous styles. This study first classifies the aesthetic consciousness of the Silla Dynasty by exploring the beauty of the Silla Dynasty realized through artifacts, books, and records in the Silla Dynasty and defines the each characteristic of the aesthetic consciousness. Second, it highlights the independency of Korean beauty through an investigation of how the aesthetic consciousness form appeared through these new appearances in the aesthetic consciousness of Silla Dynasty clothes. The results of the study show that the aesthetic consciousness of the Silla Dynasty can be inferred through Silla Dynasty artifacts, literature, sensuous beauty, and records that were classified into random natural beauty, humorous beauty, and decorative technical beauty. The Silla Dynasty aesthetic consciousness and aesthetic consciousness appeared in Silla Dynasty clothes based on the aesthetics of authenticity that created the honest and simple aesthetic moving of the early natural aesthetic sense of the Silla Dynasty. Silla Dynasty clothes are found to have transformed into an ornamental aesthetic consciousness of a sensual and decorative aesthetic consciousness in a Unified Silla.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.1
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• pp.71-79
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• 1995

Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles Vol. 19, No. 1 (199i) p. 71~79 The authors study on the traditional textile production and the formal dress through the field research concerning the folk attitude toward dress style around the Mt. Kumo area. In this area, people produced and wove hemp, cotton, and silk except ramie. Because of poor production of raw materials, they produced textiles only for self-sufficiency. Every household dealt with dyeing on a small scale. In the past, people dyed cloth natually using plants as material. Natural dyeing, however, gradually changed into chemical one since the Japanese rule. The formal dresses, which people wore on particular occasions such as the hundredth day after child's brith, the first birthday, and traditional holidays, were very meager due to poor living standards. People could not see the formal dresses with full decoration. Bride and bridegroom were the village.owned wedding dresses, and if they could not afford to, they simply put cloth on to remember the occasion. People around the Mt. Kumo area, however, provided fully-decorated shroud and ritual robes to the level of other better-off areas. It seemed to be the result of influence of deep-rooted Confucianism in Gyungbuk province. This Phenomenon could be found in the folk dress style in other regions as well as the Mt. Kumo area in Gyungbuk province.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.331-336
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• 2003

This study is to research the influence of Caesalpinia sappan which was imported through the exchanges between the Chosun dynasty and Japanese envoys during the early Chosun dynasty. Korea interchanged politically and culturally with Japan since ancient times. Particularly, the good-neighbor foreign policy toward Japan grew into trade relations. The diplomatic mission, under the name of Tongshinsa, was dispatched 12 times in total. Plenty of goods were exchanged through the visiting of Japanese envoys as well as through the activities of Korean envoys. In other words, the Korean-Japanese relations were at first focused on the political and diplomatic etiquette and gradually evolved into economic exchanges. Trading goods were various, including food, clothing, etc. Caesalpinia sappan, a red dye, was the most imported goods from Japan, but it was sold at a very high price, which caused luxurious trends in clothing. However, these sumptuous moods of the upper classes were decreased in the 16th century. Some of the reasons are : the difficulties of Japan's trade with the Caesalpinia sappan producing countries in South-east Asia, the transition of the high classes' preference from red clothing into Chinese BaecSa and SaraNeungDan, and the comparative decrease in the demand of Caesalpinia sappan by the changed understanding of Honghwa. Therefore, the early Chosun dynasty's clothing trends were due to the relationships between the Chosun dynasty and Japan.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.30 no.1 s.149
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• pp.94-105
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• 2006

This study is focused on the man's costumes of Sadangpae(the troupe of performers) shown in Gamrotaenghwa (감로탱화) during the late Chosun dynasty. Originally Gamrotaenghwa was used as a painting for a Buddhist praying ceremony, 또Young-ga-cheon-do-je(영가천도제). It shows us the lives of the commoners in those days. Gamrotaenghwa reflects the changes of costume style in the late Chosun period. The early styles of po(포, coat) for male performers in the 17th century were changeui(창의) and dopo(도포), which had the front panels(seop) overlapped deeply and sleeves that got wider as time passed. After the 18th century, Male performers wore a simpler coat such as sochangeui(소창의), which had narrow sleeves and long slits on the both sides. Especially the coats of acrobats were fastened on the center front with buttons. Heuklip(흑립: black hat), somoja(소모자: small cap) and jeonlip(전립: wool hat) were used as hats for the male performers. Originally, heuklip was the hat that represented the noble status: yangban(양반). However, it was popularized among the commoners in the late Chosun period. As time passed on, the heuklip became more popular and its shape also changed. Somoja and jeonlip were shown throughout the entire Gamrotaenghwa. Unlike heuklip, those were common hats for Sadangpae. The costumes of entertainers shown in Gamrotaenghwa were very similar to those of the commoners. However, it seems that there were some differences of the costumes depending on the roles they performed.

• Journal of Korean Theatre Studies Association
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• no.48
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• pp.549-569
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• 2012

Since 1995, the Local autonomy era has opened, local festivals have been increasing throughout the country. Traditional culture festivals are also increasing. Performing traditional culture festivals is effective for maintenance and transmission of traditional culture as well as creation and nurturing of local culture. They are also effective promoting local economy. Depending on realization level of character, place and costume based on historic research, traditional culture festivals are classified as the "Representation event" or the "Reenactment event". But there are two problems. The first is unexacting classification method for festival types made by Central government yearly. The second is unable to meet one of two goals which are protecting traditional culture and stimulating local economy throughout increasing tourists. The purpose of this study is to suggest improvement of classification method for festival types, and to offer two suggestions for ensure successful local festivals. First of all, I suggest advanced classification method for festival types. For more sophisticated collection process of national festival status, local government department should ensure purpose of festivals, and central government department should add 3 steps to existing process. For example professional committee for judgement of festival types should be founded for consulting of local and central government department. The second suggestion is reinforcement of historic research for the Representation of traditional culture event. The representation of traditional culture should focus on protection of tradition, and could be perfect by continuous historic research. The last suggestion is cooperation with local governments each other for the Reenactment of traditional culture event. The Reenactment of traditional culture should focus on promoting local economy by increasing tourists. So local governments who have similar traditional events should cooperate to get preventing loss of resource and overcome weakness of promoting.