• 복식
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• 제58권3호
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• pp.63-78
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• 2008

Since 1960, minimalism has been one of the fashion phenomenon and turned out in many different ways. After postmodernism which contains negotiation and pluralism, appeared in 1980, there was a new wave of post minimalism that inherited 1960's minimalism. Minimal style which come out of 60's fashion, is marked by simplicity, minimal expression, and monochrome color, and it shows up simple style with no decoration. It opened up a young fashion period, and we saw minimal style in sports wear which utilized simplicity and function with spread of sports in the 70's. And also since 1980, Post-Modern widely influenced the idea about modern culture as well as complicated clothes getting rid of fixed concept, seeking to break the boundary between culture and life which were seek in fashion and personality as well as various characteristic, Accordingly in different ages, The style and image were borrowed from different culture and natural environment mixing the image, cultural phenomena like these appearing in complexity and expression, variety and possibility of new vision was expanded. Since 1980, Fashion has become more gradually diversity, high classed, required of each individuality. The phenomenon of fashion reappearance which was influenced by minimalism is continued to 2000. The Oriental style fashion is still attracted, so The new term "Ethic Minimalism" has appeared along with the trends which is put together. Therefore the purpose of this study is to search the concept and the characteristics of ethnic minimalism, to consider the relationship between minimalism and ethnic minimalism, and reveal the characteristic of ethnic minimalism happened to modern fashion. The study method went through literature research and practice research. The range of this study is oriental fashion spanning of from 1960 to current day. Photo records from this period show well the spirit of the oriental and the personality of minimalism. The oriental representative designer and western representative designer are centered Consequently, The formative characteristics of ethnic minimalism are simple, pure, unbalanced free style and representing the phenomena of compromise, blending oriental and western fashion. Structually, Elements of space and plane are emphasized, colors are restricted, and materials are composed mainly of natural fiber. So, minimalism based on simplicity combined with a structure of oriental spiritual depth and space, It could be called ethnic minimalism as a rational fashion.

• 복식
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• 제66권6호
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• pp.95-109
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• 2016

The process of making fashion accessories brings many benefits to visually impaired people. It helps the development of their tactile sensation, improves their aesthetic attitude, creativity, and imagination, and brings energy to their life. The current accessory making education in Korea is targeted to people with normal vision, and does not reflect the specific needs of the visually impaired. This causes a lot of trouble in educating the visually impaired. Therefore, this study aims to increase the efficiency of accessory making education by selecting curriculum and material that are appropriate and systematic for the visually impaired. In order to understand visual impairment, literature review was conducted to examine the definition and classifications of the impairment. Research was also done regarding material types and production method of fashion accessory. The study also designed an education program, including teaching guidelines, by referring to literature related to fashion accessory design, teaching guideline. The study conducted 12 experiments based on the results from April to June 2014. After revising and supplementing the teaching method, 2nd set of experiments were conducted from July to September 2014. Each class lasted for one and a half hour every week, and the class was composed of 6 students, 1 instructor and 1 volunteer. After each class, interviews were done to collect student opinions about the curriculum and material. Total experiment results and interview were reflected in constructing the final education program. The result of the experiments and interviews showed that selecting the accessory materials for class must be selected carefully. The visually-impaired students were very sensitive to the size, texture, shape, hole size of beads and length of material. After the experiments, all the students were able to distinguish the size and shape of the beads well, and finished the accessories using the given materials. The study verified that there is a need for another approach when educating the visually impaired about fashion accessory design. Many factors need to be considered from selecting materials to class contents. This study will contribute as a reference to fashion accessory making education as well as other design education for the visually impaired.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제14권5호
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• pp.790-801
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• 2006

This study analyzed features of elements that compose a logo of inner wear brands to get the following results: First, it was found that "elegance" was the most frequently used word to express the concept of inner wear brands to be followed by words like dignity, high-end and aristocratic, words emphasizing femininity, such as feminine, romantic and sexy, words emphasizing practicality, such as convenient, practical, modern, functional and reasonable, and words emphasizing hygiene, such as clean, healthy and hygienic. This suggests that consumers nowadays pursue image more than functional aspects in the shopping of inner wear and consumers' pursuit of such values is reflected in the concept of inner wear brands. Second, unlike logos for outerwear brands that generally used initials of brand name, word-type logos for inner wear brands used the full name of brands, thus suggesting that they put more emphasis on delivery of information rather than on the symbolic aspect. In case of combining characters with concrete objects, they were found generally to use objects that give an soft, elegant and feminine image, such as flowers, woman's head and ribbons. Third, colors in the series of pink and red seemed to be used to convey the concept of inner wear brands that pursue such images as romanticism, femininity, elegance and sensibility, while colors in the series of blue, black and grey for such concepts as functionality, practicality, simplicity, health, hygiene and refinement. With reference to typeface used in the design of logos, unlike outerwear brands of which 83% use sans serif typeface for logos, relatively high percentage of inner wear was found to use typefaces of serif series to stress feminine flexibility and delicacy and give the image of elegance and classical tenderness. With reference to language used in logo naming for inner wear brands, 33 brands were found to use English and only three brands used Korean among the 36 brands surveyed. Even with inner wear brand logos that have Korean name, it was found that they used English in the use of logo marks. Like the result of previous studies, the result of this study indicates that methods to design brand logos for clothing should be incessantly sought in a way to build brand power as an important component to represent concept or function of brands and reinforce brand image.

• 복식
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• 제39권
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• pp.283-299
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• 1998

The present study is to analyze the dimensions of affective responses according to the types of appeal in underwear advertisements and to find out the influences of affective res-ponses on the attitudes toward advertisement and brands. The research has been made by normative-descriptive survey method with the sample of 654 consumers residing in Seoul and Incheon. The data gaathered was analyzed by the methods of means, standard deviation, ANOVA, factor analysis and regression. The result are as follows : 1. There are 4 dimensions of affective responses ; Emotional dimension, Negative dimen-sion, Upbeat-activation dimension and Sexual activation dimension. 2. Affective responses to the advertising were different according to the characteristics of the consumers. According to the consumer's sex, there are significant differences in each dimension of their affective responses. To the sex appeal advertisement, man show higher degree of affective responses in Emotional, Upbeat-activation and Sexual-activation dim-ensions, while women show higher degree of affective responses in Negative dimension. 3. In case of female consumers, there are significant differences in affective responses to the both appeal type of advertisements according to consumer's age. As the age is increasing. Emotional dimension and Sexual-activation dimension are increasing, but Negative dimension is decreasing in the Ads with sex appeal. In particular, the 19∼24s age group shows strong responses in the Emotional dimension, Upbeat-activation dimension and Sexual-activation dimension to Ads with sex appeal, while it shows the lowest affective responses in Negative dimension. It represents the 19-24s age group is the most positive one to the under-wear advertisements with sex appeal. Consequently, it is proved that the Ads with sex appeal focusing on this age group can be one of the most effective advertising plans. 4. The involvement gets higher, Upbeat-ac-tivation dimension and Sexual-activation dimension are increasing both in males and female groups. But Negative dimension is in-creasing in the female consumer group of low involvement. 5. The attitudes toward advertisements and brands are comparatively stronger in the advertisements using sex appeal type. Regardless of types of appeal in the advertisements, there is a significant difference in their attitudes tow-ard Ads between male and female consumer groups. When Ads are sexual, attitudes toward Ads and Brands are stronger in the female consumer group. But males consumers show com-paratively strong attitudes toward the advertis-ements and brands in both types of appeal. 6. The age of consumers doesn't make any significant difference in their attitudes toward advertisements and brands in both types of appeal. 7. According to the involvement level of the consumers, there are significant differences in their attitudes toward advertisements. In the groups of low involvement, the female consumers show more favorite attitudes toward the advertisements with sex appeal, while the male group show more favorite attitudes toward the non-sex appeal advertisement. But there is no significant difference in consumer's attitude toward brands according to the types of appeal of the advertisement. 8. The affective responses of the consumers caused by the underwear advertisements have a respectable influence on their attitudes toward the advertisements and brands. This research represents that the advertisers should try to arise consumer's positive affective responses such as pleasant, happy, cheerful and warm-hearted emotions by the advertisements. Based on the above results of the research, it can be said that the consumer's affective responses have a strong effect not only on their attitudes toward adver-tisements but on those toward attitude toward the brands.

• 복식
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• 제50권7호
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• pp.15-31
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• 2000

1. After the Chu Dynasty(周代), we can confirm the fish shape mark made of stones as the relics of the Chunkuk dynasty(戰國時代). In the Shu Dynasty(隋代), the system of bamboo and the rabbit shape mark made of silver into the fish shape mark. As it were, made of bamboo or siltier changed into the fish shape mark made of jade, gold, silver or wood. 2. In the Dang Dynasty(唐代), the used the fish shape credit mark made of jade, gold, silver, copper or textile, according to their classes. According to one's posit the man who wore purple, red coat, credit mark made a gold and silver. attached with putting them in fish bags. 3. In the Ryo Dynasty(遼代), there was also a system of attaching marks. The emperor was hanging the fish shape and the officials attached the double fish shape to the common dress. fish shape of jade. gold, amber, agate, silver or copper. without any fish bag. 4. The Song Dynasty(宋代) followed the system of the Dang Dynasty they used only the fish shape bags without marks in them. Hanging the fish shape bags made of gold and silver at the back side of the belt. 5. The Gin Dynasty(金代) carried out the system of made jade, gold or silver like the Dang, Song and Ryo Dynasty. In the Sejong Kingdom a system of paper card was carried out as the credit mark of the eighth and the ninth grade. 6. In the Ming Dynasty(明代), the military official general attached the golden, silver, ivory of jade, wood and copper cards with their positions and names. 7. Following the Dang Dynasty, Japan made of fish shape bags to their clothes. Colors of their fish shape marks were same as their clothes. They made the marks, such as crystal, cow's horn, lead and nickel and plated them with gold or silver. 8. In Korea, Pohai(발해) established the fish shape credit mark differed in material. gold, silver or copper according to their positions. We can confirm the Unified Silla(南國;統一新羅), carried out the system of attaching the fish shape in Chonma Chong(천마총), Golden Crown Chong(金冠塚), the King's 13-17 belt ring unearthed at the north part of Court South threat Chong(황남대총), the fish shape golden or silver, to their purple or red ceremonial coats. In the Koryo Dynasty(高麗), like the Dang, Song and Pohai, they attached the fish shape golden or silver marks, to their purple or red ceremonial coats.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.25-35
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• 1998

This thesis is a study of Kas ya, robes of buddhist monk, which is having peculiarity among human clothes. I kept my attention mainly on the symbolism of the color of Kas ya. To elucidate this, I chose the principle of T -chi and Yin-yang and Wu-shing as a frame-work of interpretation. In the first place, the original meaning of Kas ya mean a name of peculiar color. The concrete names of the color are color of persimmons juice, brown, yellow tinged with red, radish brown, non-primary color etc. The main motive to dye three robes of buddhist monk from white or primary color to the color of Kas ya was to differentiate buddhist monks from heathen or laymen. Therefore, as luxurious and primary colored cloths was donated to the buddhist monks, they are necessary to discolor them. Accordingly. they established 'non-primary color' as well-mate one for a ascetic. The non-primary color is called discolored color' as a result of discoloring primary colors. The discolored color is a synonym of Kas ya and the process of discoloring is necessary for making robes of buddhist monk. Secondly, discoloring means to mash five primary color. That is say, the process of discoloring means to return five primary colors back to 'profoundity·abstruseness·obscurity, namely darkness' as the source of them. Darkness as a condition amalgamated and not appeared all materials is the source and at the same time the terminus of all colors. Therefore, color of Kas ya symbolizes 'profound color' as the ultimate meaning of discoloring. Thirdly, discoloring garments of buddhist monk symbolize to destroy evil passions and haughtiness arising in ascetic's mind as well as means don't attach to the shaped materials'. Fourthly, discoloring means to return 'color'. namely 'all kinds of shaped material' to the inherent nature. Process of discoloring means to reture to the empty. nya. nya essentially do not make any colors, but over and over again come into being and become extinct as becoming colors. R pa, by one time Yin and the other time Yang'. R pa, color is a metaplasia of nya and nya is discoloring one of all colors. Then, discoloring means R pa is nya, R pa is nya at the same time and Because this is another expression of Dharma the original meaning of Kas ya symbolize true robes. Consequently, Kas ya means truth and beyond time and space do not be changed and conserve the color of the first till now.

• 복식
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• 제40권
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• pp.151-170
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• 1998

The purpose of this study is to examine the value of grotesque fashion and to predict the future fashion trend. The grotesque originates the formative art. It emerges towards of a century or transitional period in most case. In particular, it was used as the expressive method of an individual's inside and a satire on society through the work of artists in the Middle Age, the renaissance, the sym-bolism, the dadaism, the surrealism, the pop art, the technology art, and the post-modernism, etc. The grotesque in fashion is represented in the work of avant-garde fashion designers who lead the high fashion. The grotesque fashion which was combined with an image of non-formality, non-rationality, an absurdity and reality. It has been begun shape of female dress in the renaissance. Afterwards, it was represented in extremely exaggerated and distorted pop art, hippies' fashion in the 1960's. In the 1970's, it was reflected in genderless rock star and destructive punk fashion. It was also represented in the androgynous fashion which was combined with both sexes, the goth/gothic fashion which was expressed with a realistic and fanciful shape and the tattoo of skin-head in the 1980's. In the 1990's, the grungy look which was dirty and the cyber punk fashion. In general, it was also expressed by the avant-garde fashion designers. To sum up, a grotesque fashion which is expressed by experimental designers is classified into four shapes. 1, Union of some extraneous is expressed as different kinds of fashion theme, such as abnormality of texture, uses of surrealistic elements and chaos of sex. Although it appears that the abnormal union of grotesque has only discord and collision, it also shows a feeling of freedom for the tension. 2. Introduction of real and fanciful image is expressed as a cyborg, realistic description of disgusting animal skin and aggressive shape. Especially, it is worth while to notice Tierre Mugler and Alexander Macqueen's work which expressed the shape of mingling human of Middle Age. 3. distortion or exaggeration is expressed as an unformed shape, the exaggeration of a clothing size, the abnormal exaggeration of human body and the ignorance of clothing form. 4. Introduction of a disgusting image is expressed as an extremity of reality, motifs of death, clothing material of disgusting hair and the ostentation of sex. Motto which leads modern fashion is something new and shocking. The grotesque fashion is an expression of eagerness for something new. It often show something ironic in the form of humor which is embedded in an abnormal and shocking pattern. The grotesque fashion is represented as an extreme beauty. It will stand as an important element of the future fashion and as a particular style with the change and fluidity.

• 복식
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• 제53권2호
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• pp.153-169
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• 2003

I think that apparel attaches importance to the degree of satisfaction of visual expression in one ornamental culture in which it is clothed on human body. whereas a tattoo attaches more importance to part of the expression of one's own identity in the same context. However. modern tattooing act was highlighted only as an element of act which was negative in the purpose and the degree of taste or which assumed the grotesque meaning of a particular group. away from pure concepts such as simple ornament or an amulet according to the flow of the world. A tattoo is gradually being seen as one of avant-garde methods of art again these days, and TATTOO LOOK is being popularized as street fashion as an effective method of one's own satisfied desires and peculiar expression of personality. I have got the following conclusions as the result of having studied on a tattoo which is establishing itself as another plastic art that is matchable with the fashion of dress and its ornaments in which human incessant instinctive desire for the ornament of body has been beyond nostalgia for the past and simple ornament which were pure in up-to-date modern society First, a tattoo is of personality. In that it solidifies one's own personality of another side by being transformed, one's own attraction can be transferred to a fashion tattoo with which one can emit one's own personality. Secondly. a tattoo is fashion. As a new body ornament called transformation by a tattoo was emerging, the fashionableness owned by a tattoo had in its area ample room for the fashionableness with which it can coexist with the culture of dress and its ornaments. Thirdly. a tattoo is popularized. TATTOO LOOK in which one's own satisfied desires and the expression of personality are properly applied is being recently transmitted easily everywhere in the world and popularized as street fashion. Fourthly, a tattoo is not depraved art. It's because of the point that a tattoo which had been recognized only as a decadent expression in which avant-garde elements of unknown nationality appeared mixed showed the possibility that it could establish itself as fashion art. If we go on studying and complementing the problems of individual sides about a tattoo also in the future, the infinite fashionableness for the elements called personality. sense and emotion owned by a tattoo suggested ample possibility as future industry to be highlighted.

• 복식
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• 제54권3호
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• pp.27-42
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• 2004

Music videos provide for many others images, alluring the audience to fall in another emotional world, while the sexual images shown in them suggest new images of man and woman. Today, men's images are being interpreted from various viewpoints. As interests in men's fashion are visualized through music video clothing, not only juveniles who want to be identified with the music video images but also adults try to imitate them, and proceed to wear the clothing, obliterating the boundary between 'reality' and 'illusion' and creating new images of men. This study is aimed at reviewing the male images shown in the music videos, particular their clothing, produced between 2000 and 2002. The results of this study could be summarized as follows : 1. Since beginning of the human history, men's image has been characterized by patriarchal system, capitalism, bourgeois class which emerged after industrial revolution and other man-dominant socio-cultural phenomena, such male image are shown in the music video as conservative and dominant image. 2. However, due to the post-modern culture, the power began to be decentralized. while feminism and men's liberation movement gain strength. As a result, women or heterosexuals began to regard men as sexual objects, and such a phenomenon is featured as sexual, bisexual or decadent images in the music videos. 3. On the threshold of the 21st century, music videos have begun to creatively describe men's life, their social conflicts, dreams and hopes and death and thereby. feature men's such images as being destroyed in view of existentialism. The numerous creative men's images interpreted in this way are featured in many music video works only to create playful, cyborg or demonic images using the senses. After all, men's images are featured in the music video costumes in diverse ways ranging from the conventional images to acquiescent images. In addition, various male images are combined with the characteristics of the music videos to be re-created anew. The young men in the our modern age tend to imitate or apply such images to create their own images or individualistic styles. All in all, men's image can be fixed no longer but diversified and fragmented in the new age.

• 복식
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• 제65권1호
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• pp.46-60
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• 2015

This study analyzed the process of development and verification of standards through the competency analysis of fashion accessories products in the development of 'National Competency Standards'(NCS), which was carried out in 2013 for the fashion industry. The NCS for fashion accessories production was developed through three Focus Group Interviews (FGIs) and fashion accessories production was defined as "the process of design, development and manufacture intended to produce items that improve the degree of completion of fashion products that are produced from textile fabric, knitted fabric, leather and other materials such as bags, belts, hats, gloves, scarves, neckties and socks with the exception of clothes". The competency unit for fashion accessories production was analyzed in 11 categories: development of design; development of materials; production of prototype samples; calculation of cost; determination of mass production model and price; planning of main manufacture process; ordering of materials; planning for mass production; preparation for mass production; mass production; and inspection of completed products, and the verification was carried out on development outcomes through a survey carried out of on-site personnel. This study recommends the following direction for future improvements based on an analysis of the development process of the NCS for fashion accessories production. First, future development of standards should first provide a rational category system for each area of fashion good production based on the production process, which should be followed by a detailed competency survey. Second, in order to ensure a more efficient verification survey, an expert for each competency unit should be designated for the develop standard to induce a more sincere response. Also the questionnaire should require supplementation in order to collect the various additional opinions of experts of the field. Finally, this study concludes that it is urgent to procure an education infrastructure and specialized professors in order to apply the competency standard for fashion accessories production to the education sector. This study also concludes that the government will be required to provide systematic and consistent support aimed at supplementing development and forming a firm collaborative working environment for the industry and academia in order to improve the current education environment and build a more field-oriented education environment.