Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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v.1
no.1
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pp.15-23
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1977
This article is to study Dopo, man's traditional robe, which was worn by courtiers and scholars in Yi dynasty (AD 1392-1910). This article deals with its history and transition according to relative documents available, and presents its construction method with reference to relics. It is recorded that Dopo was first worn about the middle of the time of Yi dynasty. Dopo, however, seems to have its origin in the robe of Koguryo dynasty (BC 37-AD 668). Dopo was an ordinary robe to court officials, whereas Confucian scholars wore it as an official uniform or a ritual robe. ft was a long over-coat with V-neck line, and, round and wide sleeves. Dopo was so long that its edge reached wearer's ankels. One of the widest sleeves of relics was 58cm in size. Another unique characteristics Dopo had, were that its back cloth splited in two on center line, which was fully covered and added with-another cloth called 'Jeonsam'. Accordingly, a cloth-30cm in width and 30 yards in length-was needed to make Dopo. Since the reform of 1894 it was prohibited to wear, and then was replaced with Durumagi, a strait collar and narrow-sleeved robe.
The Purpose of this study is to analyze the clothing excavated in Xinjinag, concerned with the study of clothing culture in Central Asia. The results are as follows : A headwear is a corn hat or round hat, the material is field, fur or woolen textiles. For hair accessories, feathers or wooden pins were used. The corn hats of the Scythians and the Huns also had same design and did not change even after being influenced from the culture of Han Dynasty. A woman's hair styles was many strips of braid, a man's hair style was a braid or a topknot. Regarding the clothing, a woman wore pull-over type and a man wore caftan for a jacket. Both a man and a woman wore widened coat and trousers as well as felt socks and leather boots, and longer socks than boots are the characteristics of the clothing of nomadic horsemen. The textiles was mainly wool, but silk was used for coats, socks and gloves in high society imported from China through the Silk Road after the 2nd century B.C. Compared with Korea clothing, a corn hat, widened coat, trousers and leather boots are similar with those of Koguryo. The influence of western culture is shown in a man's short hair, animal design, W1-Kum, a woman's pull-over type and a round neckline.
In Korean housing designs reflect uniqueness as a result of the influence of regional and atmospheric factors. In this regard, the early use of the hot floor (ondol) system is of special significance. This system is still in use today, not only for house-heating purposes in the homes of commoners, but also for cooking in the kitchen. The present study represents an investigation of the ondol structure since its earliest known usage. Methodology involves a documentary examination of the system. In point of time, this begins with the system's earliest usage and proceeds chronnologically down to the end of the Yi Dynasty. Research indicates that something very much like the ondol system appeared in the early tribal society of Mahan and its usage continued in the state of Koguryo (during the Three Kingdoms Period) in the homes of the poor. This unique system which had its origin in cold northern areas was utilized on a much broader basis during the Koryo Dynasty. Coming down to the Yi Dynasty it found acceptance and application in all parts of the peninsula. Variations in major component parts of the structure, such as the fuel hole, the flue, the draft , and the chimney, normally reflect regional dissimilarities. It is perhaps most significant that here-in contrast to other devices we have a system that serves concurrently for both heating and cooking purposes.
This study attempted to grasp the etimological meaning of the ancient place name Dumo, and to identify when the ancient place names in Dumo system started to be used by Korean people. The results of analysis of generic toponym and specific toponym of the ancient place names in Dumo system are as follow: Firstly, Chumong, the name of the founder of the Koguryo Dynasty, and his two sons Biryu,the founder of the kingdom Biryu-Paekche, and Oncho, the founder of the kingdom Paekche, are presumed to originate from place name, not from person's name. Particularly, the name of Chumong is considered to be a person's name which comes from Dumo system. Oncho, who claimed to be a son of Chumong, a person of north-Puyo, transterred the capital of his kingdom to the present site of Dumo in Chunggung-dong, Hanam city in present, which is thought to be an early capital of Paekche or a part of it. Secondly, the word of Dumo means a warm space which is surrounded by mountains, protected from wind, endowed with river which provided with water. This kind of spatial cognition gradually evolved as the prototypical locational artifice which was diffused to Manchuria and Japan, and is believed to be introduced to the Korean Peninsula.
In this paper, the research is carried out about a couch, a horse foot chair, a horse foot table, and a multi-leg table among the furniture of Koguryeo. The couch had been widely used from the Chinese Han Dynasty, and the couch of the Koguryeo was influenced by that of Han. The couch of Koguryeo was a piece of furniture which was used not only for sitting purposes but also for symbolizing status ranking. The horse foot chair is a chair whose leg is finished with a horse foot shape, and is a relic which shows an aspect of the art exchange between the East and the West, appearing in Egypt and Mesopotamia, having influence on chairs of Greece and Rome, and being introduced into Koguryeo and Japan by way of the countries bordering on Western China and China. The horse foot chair was used by the royalty, the aristocracy and the priesthood, and use of the chair at that time reflects the effect of Buddhist culture. The horse foot table is a piece of furniture whose leg is finished with a horse foot shape as in the horse foot chair, and there are many instances that it is used together with the horse foot chair. The multi-leg table is configured to have a square plate, plural legs and footstool, and is used by the upper classes, being also influenced by China. In this paper, the study about the furniture of Koguryeo, which has not been closely considered up to now, is performed, and is important as a study about origin of Korean furniture. In the future, the research about succession of the furniture of Koguryo to that of Koryeo period should be carried out, and much more research material be investigated.
The purpose of this study is to develop the contents for Cyber Learning System of Korean Costumes on WBI(Web Based Instruction) that can be applied to home economics learning and teaching and used to help learners get more positive attitude toward home economics education through various activities. The contents consist of the materials about Korean costumes that are divided into five periods, that is, three ancient kingdoms(Shilla, Packche, and Koguryo), Unified Shilla, Koryo Dynasty, Chosun Dynasty and early 1900s in Korea. They also consist of lectures on kinds, characteristics, and changing procedures of those costumes. These lectures are supposed to help learners understand the traditional culture of Korean costumes. Furthermore, the lists of terminology on Korean costumes enable learners to solve the problems related to the costumes on their own. In conclusion, the developed contents on Korean costumes for Cyber learning make it possible to learn and teach home economics in the distance by applying the educational information system to secondary schools and to support the learning system for the home economics education in the schools.
According to the Sam-guk Sa-gi (History of three Kingdoms: Silla, Koguryo and Paeckje) tea was first brought into Korea by Kim Tae-ryeum, a diplomat, in 828 A.D. during the reign of king Hung-dot of Silla, and planted on the hill of Mt. Chi-ri. Afterwards, the tea trees were transplanted and cultivated by Buddists in many Buddist temples in southern provinces during the Silla and Koryo dynasties. People took much delight in drinking green tea, and specially the kings, buddist monks and nobilities of Silla and Koryo enjoyed drinking green tea. And eventually, the green tea became an indispensable part in all important ceremonies during the Koryo dynasty. After the Yi dynasty came into being, the dualistic philosophy of China was introduced and respected while buddist temples declined as a result of strong oppression by the ruling class. While temples were declined, the practice of drinking green tea was also declined. Nowadays we find many tea plants grow wild, which are seemed to be planted around buddist temples during the Koryo dynasty. Today, Korean people do not drink home made green tea. Instead, they like to take coffee, black tea and other tea products imported from foreign countries. Aa a result, Korea had to pay $ 520 thousand in 1969 to import foreign made tea and coffee. The natural conditions of southern provinces of Korea are very suitable in cultivating tea plants. If we develope the skill in producing good quality tea in Korea, we would be able to save the foreign exchanges that are being spent for importing foreign made tea products, and at the same time, we would be able to export our green tea to overseas. The quality of Korean green tea is as good as that of Japanese green tea. Green tea contains vitamin C while coffee and black tea do not contain it.
The Korean have admired and lived with decorums through Jeol, a representative practical formality which expresses the decorums intensively. Jeol is the way of greeting native to Korea and an intangible culture close to Korean life style. To be remained as a culture, the traditional propriety Jeol should reconcile to the present life feflecting our history. On this viewpoint, the purpose of this research is to furnish the authority of the creative inheritance on the settlement of Jeol and other decorums suitable to the present. This research is consisted of 1) the study of the meaning of Jeol and 2) the hidtorical research through records. 'Jurye' is regarded as the oldest literature on the systematic explanation about Jeol and has been very often used down the ages. Jindong in 'Jurye' and Kodu in 'Karyejipram' are the same Jeol which expresses the grief in funeral rites. In 'Seonghosaseol', Abae which stands one knee is explained and investigated as the case of offense by the literature. And it is also interpreated as a Jeol with respect, while many other Jeol is to fall an both of kness, Abae is not performed generally. 'Yeki' has brief explanation about Kongsu Manner (to hold hands), Jeol between the king and minister, host and guest, Buinbae, Jeol in custom, wedding ceremony and funeral ceremony and Jeol in drinking manner. In 'Chunchukongyangjeon'. there is the explanation about Jeol of the minister who comes back after his duty to the king. 'Sunjajiphae' interprets Bae and Kyesang and informs that Kuesu is the most respectful Jeol only to the king, 'Seojeon' proves the Jeol habitually used in all kinds of ceremonies and etiquettes. 'Jeongbomunheonbigo' introduces the custom of Jeol in Shilla, Koguryo, Buyeo, Koryo eras by using literature and shows the commoness of both kneeling down generally. The result of this research has the meaning for the creation of life culture in the basis of the spirit 'Onkojisin'(reviewing the old and learning the new) by establishing the present Jeol with tradition.
This paper attempts to reveal little-known pages from the history of relations between the peoples of Central Asia and Korea based on materials derived from written sources and modern scientific literature, as well as from medieval wall paintings from the early medieval Afrasiab Palace of Varhuman, the ruler of Samarkand, and from stone sculptures of Sogdian figures contained in Silla royal tombs. Korea's interest in the western lands led to its contact with Buddhism, which spread and later flourished in all three Korean kingdoms (Koguryo, Paekche and Silla). The spread of Buddhism in turn motivated a number of Korean monks to undertake pilgrimages to India via Central Asia. Hyecho, a young Silla pilgrim, left evidence of his journey via the South China Sea to India in 723 AD. Paul Pelliot discovered a report from Hyecho's journey entitled Notes on Pilgrimage to Five Regions in India (Wang Wu Tianzhuguo zhuan) in the Dunhuang caves in 1908. Hyecho's contributions are worthy of attention, substantially complementing knowledge available for this little-studied period in the history of South and Central Asia. The information contained in Hyecho's manuscript is, in fact, considered the most significant work of the first half of the 8th century. Research regarding the relationship between Central Asia and Korea remains underdeveloped. Existing historical evidence, however, including the above mentioned Samarkand wall paintings, depicts the visits of two Korean ambassadors to Samarkand, and evidence from Silla tombs suggests the presence of diplomatic relations in addition to trade between the two regions. Overall, the history of the relationship between Central Asia and Korea yields new insights into how and why these distant countries sustained trade and diplomatic and cultural exchange during this early period. Taking into account Korea's growing interest in Uzbekistan, especially in its history and culture, this article can act as a catalyst for studying the history of the two country's relations.
In understranding the essence of the Korea traditional Architecture, it is important to consider the jointing methods of architectural members, architectural technologies, etc. Especially the purpose of this study is understanding on the Jointing Method of Wooden Members in the period of Unified Silla Architecture. It's conclusion is summarized as follows. 1. A section of column has very close to do with the foundation stone. The structures of foundation stone and column are generally concluded by butt joint, arrow-head joint, housed joint by Grang-e method. Judu is structured by arrow-head joint And, in general, beam is structured by Sagaematchum Chumcha and sagaljudu of Don direction. At the head of Pyungju and the body of Goju, Changbang is structed by Jangbumachum with arrow-head joint or by jumukchang-machum. Also, it is surmised that Gyisoseum and Anssolim methods had been applied to columns from former ages. The example can be found at Bagjae Mireuksaji stone pagoda. Bagjae Mireuksaji stone pagoda taking wooden-pagoda form adopts Gyisoseum and Anssolim methods. We can also find such a sort of methods from other stone constructions like Budo, etc. 2. Injahwaban is structured by short Changbumachum with arrowed-head joint at upper members, and by Anjangmachum at the lower part. This sort of Gongpo style can be seen in the mural painting of tomb of Koguryo and in Buplyungsa, Buplyunsa, Bupkisa-located in Japan, which are influenced by Bakjae or Unified Silla. It is considered that at the end of the late United Silla, Injawhaban had been replaced with Chumcha and Soro on the Pyungbang under influence of Dapo style from China.
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