• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.1
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• pp.8-13
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• 2010

Needle contamination was investigated using a test rig simulated the knitting points in the knitting machine in relation with the characteristics of knitting yarn such as yarn type and moisture contents. When used open-end yarn compared with combed and carded ring-spun yarns, the needle contamination was significantly increased because of the higher friction between yarn and needle by the fly and other impurities. Also Lower moisture content of the yarns aggravated the needle contamination. In addition knitting yarn breakage was substantially influenced by the higher needle contamination.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.32 no.9
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• pp.1333-1342
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• 2008

This study intended to evaluate the visual sensibility of textiles of knitting simulation through the painting function of SDS-ONE, a computer knitting system, with the use of various fancy yarns for hand knitting. For this study, six kinds of fancy yarns with difference manufacturing style and form were selected: loop yarn, tamtam yarn, fur1 yarn, fur2 yarn, ladder yarn, and tape yarn. In order to create a computer knitting simulation, paint function of SDS-ONE was employed to scan the fancy yarns for hand knitting with a scanner. Then, after the registration of the yarns as data, the yarn was brought in for knitting simulation in plain stitch with 3 gauge. After that a survey was conducted involving 60 female experts in their twenties. Using SPSS 12.0, factor analysis, reliability, Pearson correlation coefficient, ANOVA, Duncan test, and regression analysis were performed to analyze the collected data. First, according to the result of analyzing the visual sense factor, three factors of the 'inflexibleness/ruggedness sense', 'lightweight sense', and 'smoothness sense' was extracted. According to the result of analyzing the visual sensibility factor, three factors of the 'activity', 'grace', and 'purity' was extracted. Second, With regard to preference and purchase intention, the knitted fabric with tamtam yarn(H2) was preferred than the other samples, indicating that the respondents had intention to purchase it. As for word-of-mouth intention, H2 ranked the first place, implying the respondents had intention to recommend it to other people. Third, the examination of the use of products each knitting simulation knit found that sweater and muffler are the most appropriate knit products. And H2 was the most suitable sample for sweater and muffler products. This study tried to prove that knit textile can be visually evaluated through a computer knitting simulation without the actual knitting and then to provide accurate data to related companies or the academic circle.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.18 no.3 s.88
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• pp.59-64
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• 2006

Knifing parameters specially related to lint generation in the knitting zone such as knitting needles, yarn feed angle and yarn feed speed were investigated with a developed test rig, which simulated the hutting area on the knitting machine. Three different types of needle counts and feeding angles affected tension and the amount of lint that was caused by frictional forces between the yarn and the morphological structure of the needle. However, the yarn feed speed did not affect the lint generation. The results implied that a more advanced test rig was necessary for further study. Also, chemical and mechanical modifications of the kilting elements may be necessary to improve the lint problem.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.361-371
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• 2000

The problematic effects of fly creation on circular knitting machines during the knitting process were investigated in order to develop a new method for tackling the problem. A new idea, i.e. coating the yarn surface with a polymer film, was studied. Important physical properties of the coated yarm were studied and compared with normal yarn. A new test-rig was designed to measure the coefficient of friction and the degree of shedding of yarn. Yarns were coated with seven polymer materials and the performance of the coated yarns was tested and the results are discussed.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.16 no.1
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• pp.117-123
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• 2014

This paper examined dyeing using sulfur dye with nylon and the characteristics of high gauge knitting for generating high functionality including light weight, wind resistance and elasticity using fine nylon threads. Yarn tension, stitch field and knitting speed of high and fine gauge knitting were measured. The influence of reducing agents on sulfur dye, optimum dyeing conditions and fastness features in nylon dyeing were analyzed. The analysis results are presented below. When nylon (Hyoseong, 40d/34f) and spandex (Hyoseong, 20d) for use as hosiery yarn were used to knit high gauge and flat weave, 44 gauge, the effective knitting conditions were a stitch field over 8.2cm in 1 course length, yarn tension of less than 5g and knitting speed below 18rpm. Nylon dyeing using sulfur dye showed effective results when a rongalite reducing agent was used at more than 10% o.w.f. and dyeing was maintained at $98^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes. For dyeing nylon and spandex composite using sulfur dye, color fastness in washing, water, daylight and friction were higher than Class 4 or 5, which indicated a superior property. The analysis results verified that the existing problems in nylon dyeing could be solved by using sulfur dyes that don't use heavy metals due to superior fastness and therefore quality, high gauge nylon knit products could be produced.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.629-634
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• 2012

Knitted fabric using acrylic/wool blended yarn (A/W) is increasingly used in the knit industry; subsequently, research on knitted fabric using A/W has increased. This study presents an scientific database from evaluating physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W. In this study,$1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were made at various knitting tensions (dial no. 2-6) and the number (4-6) of ply yarn. The physical properties of $1{\times}1$ rib stitch using A/W were measured and analyzed. The density was in the range 5.5-6.4 wales/cm and 4.0-5.6 courses/cm, respectively. The density increased when less plying yarns and more knitting tension were added during knitting. The thickness was in the range of 1.592-2.362 mm and the tensile strength was in the range 32.75-53.63 Kgf/mm. The burst strength was in the range 107.8-139.2 $N/cm^2$. Thickness, tensile strength, and burst strength increased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The elongation and the recovery extension rate were in the range 102.29-112.13% and 96.4-97.7%, respectively. The heat retention rate was in the range 59.3-65.1%. There was no difference of the elongation and the recovery extension rate and the heat retention rate by the knitting tension and the number of the ply yarn. The permeability was in the range 170.5-396.3 $cm^3/cm^2/sec$. Air permeability decreased as the number of ply yarn and the knitting tension increased. The pilling properties were excellent for all $1{\times}1$ rib stitches.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.148-152
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• 2001

Cotton yarns were coated with a polymer solution to hold surface fibers to the yam body, which caused fiber-fly generation during knitting process. The physical property of the coated yarn, especially a bending rigidity was investigated in order to evaluate the performance of the coated yam during knitting. SEM images showing the surface condition of the coated yarn demonstrated that the thickness of a coating material increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results of the bending rigidity measured using KES-FB2 system showed that the bending rigidity of the coated yam increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results also revealed the possibility that yarn coated with a low amount of coating material should be employed for further research of reducing fiber-fly generation during knitting process.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.3 no.2
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• pp.80-84
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• 2002

Tension control is an important factor in producing high quality knitted products and in maintaining good processing condition. Yarn tension during knitting is subject to be affected from many elements of the machine and process parameters. Several factors including yam feeding speed, feeding angle, and needle gauge that are considered to influence on the tension variation were investigated. Yam feeding speed did not show high contribution to the tension variation but feeding angle of yam did show high correlation with the tension. No or negative correlation of the tension with needle gauge was found from the results. In order to keep well-determined process condition in the knitting manufacturing, it is strongly suggested that all knitting elements and parameters should be in the integrated control circumstance.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.3
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• pp.119-123
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• 2003

Fluff (lint, fiber fly) generation, especially related to yarn structure, was investigated. Research centered on the fiber length related to fluff generation during the knitting process. Short fiber length composing yarn structure was a main source of the fluff shedding. High quality spun yarn with longer length of fiber was recommended to the high speed knitting industry in order to reduce process troubles such as yarn breakage, etc. but the cost is doubtable to the manufacturers. A trial to reduce the fluff trouble by using chemicals to hold the short fiber on the surface of the yam was suggested and the research showed a positive effect to the problem. However, another factors including a by-product of chemical residue and searching more feasible material need to be concerned for the future research.