• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.1 no.3
• /
• pp.280-287
• /
• 1999

The aims of this research were to study on the relationship between the mechanical properties and the deformation behavior of weft-knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure and knit density. Eighteen weft-knitted fabrics were produced with six different knit structures ($1{\times}1$ rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different knit densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties of these samples were measured using the KES-F system. The 2HBIW increased as knit density was raised. The increase was greater for the double knit fabrics in all samples. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock samples showed the lowest 2HG/G values. The double knits were smaller than those of single knits indicate a higher degree of surface smoothness. The ratio of compression energy to weight per unit area of the double knits had lower values than the single knits.

• Safety and Health at Work
• /
• v.8 no.1
• /
• pp.105-115
• /
• 2017

Background: The goal of this study is to develop a general population job-exposure matrix (GPJEM) on asbestos to estimate occupational asbestos exposure levels in the Republic of Korea. Methods: Three Korean domestic quantitative exposure datasets collected from 1984 to 2008 were used to build the GPJEM. Exposure groups in collected data were reclassified based on the current Korean Standard Industrial Classification ($9^{th}$ edition) and the Korean Standard Classification of Occupations code ($6^{th}$ edition) that is in accordance to international standards. All of the exposure levels were expressed by weighted arithmetic mean (WAM) and minimum and maximum concentrations. Results: Based on the established GPJEM, the 112 exposure groups could be reclassified into 86 industries and 74 occupations. In the 1980s, the highest exposure levels were estimated in "knitting and weaving machine operators" with a WAM concentration of 7.48 fibers/mL (f/mL); in the 1990s, "plastic products production machine operators" with 5.12 f/mL, and in the 2000s "detergents production machine operators" handling talc containing asbestos with 2.45 f/mL. Of the 112 exposure groups, 44 groups had higher WAM concentrations than the Korean occupational exposure limit of 0.1 f/mL. Conclusion: The newly constructed GPJEM which is generated from actual domestic quantitative exposure data could be useful in evaluating historical exposure levels to asbestos and could contribute to improved prediction of asbestos-related diseases among Koreans.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.2
• /
• pp.1-13
• /
• 2014

Hundertwasser's paintings have the characteristics in his works continue to emerge organical spirals, geometric pattern of squares, mysterious and gorgeous colors. This study by applying them, it has been purposed of expansion of representation outstanding artistic formative knitwear by using yarn of various textured fabrics and leather, felt, beads of the materials. The methods of this study are through the analysis of literature of Hundertwasser's paintings and art world and formative traits. It has been studied the literature of the theoretical background on general examination of knitwear and knit, felting, needle punching techniques. Conclusions from this study are as follows: The first, It could know the organic spirals and geometric square patterns and gorgeous colors of Hundertwasser's paintings are suitable as a decorative and rich motif of knitwear design. The second, It was possible unique and various texture expression of decorative patterns of Hundertwasser's paintings by expressing variety of materials of knit, felt and fabric, leather, beads. The third, It was expressed knitwear of unique texture to express Hundertwasser's image of the painting by using hand knitting, felting, needle punching, patchwork, beading of complex techniques. The forth, It was reflected well Hundertwasser's idea which was affected nature and art nouveau that all production processes are composed of handcraft techniques. It was suitable to express the naturalness of hand knit and not mechanical or artificial image. The fifth, It was analyzed lines and patterns of Hundertwasser's painting. The spiral is simultaneously constituted curve shape and area that square patterns also have devided area.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.16 no.4
• /
• pp.117-136
• /
• 2014

The purpose of this study is to present a classification system of the hand-made and machine-made lace according to the configuration method and re-make the category and definition of lace to consider the emergence and development of major laces techniques. The re-made category and definition of the lace is as follows. The lace usually consists of ground and motifs, however, the techniques of netting and sprang are suitable for making ground than motif, so I think it is appropriate to exclude them from the category of the lace. Many scholars are excluded openwork embroidery fabric from the category of the lace. But, an openwork embroidery fabric is the basis of a needle point lace called true lace and is consist of motif and ground. I think it is appropriate to include it in the category of the lace. I think it is also appropriate to include in the category of the lace that the eyelet embroidery fabric which mimics the openwork embroidery fabric in the machine. Lace is redefined that a fabric with openwork decoration consists of motif and ground, constructed by a variety of ways such as plaiting, twisting, looping, knotting of threads or embroidering by hand or machine. The classification of the lace is presented as follows. Hand-made lace is classified bobbin lace, needle point lace, embroidery lace, knotted lace, crochet lace, and knitting lace. Machine-made lace is classified raschel lace, leaver lace, torchon lace, and machine-made embroidery laces which include tool lace, eyelet embroidery lace, chemical lace, etc.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.4 no.1_2
• /
• pp.25-33
• /
• 1980

The studies on shrinkage and characteristics of the weft knitted fabrics were investigated under the various dry and wet treating conditions. Various relaxation values were found out according to treating conditions. The characteristics of knitted fabrics such as shrinkage rate, thickness, spirality, elongation and recovery were also measured. The used knitting yams were OE (open-end) cotton and POY (pre-oriented yarn)-DTY (draw textured yam) polyester. The conclusions obtained in this study are as follows. 1. In case of dry relaxation little change of Ks values was seen with increasing time after 48 hours. So it was found that relaxation shrinkage of dry relaxation reached its maximal state in about 48 hours. 2. In case of wet relaxation, higher Ks values were observed, in comparision with those of dry one and higher shrinkage rates were also observed. But when experimental temperature was constant, sudden marked increases in Ks values and shrinkage rates appeared through the initial 4 hours, and after that time little change was seen in them. 3. As Ks value increases, thickness also increased. But thickness showed to some degree stability around Ks value 23. 4. As Ks value increases, spirality values also increased gradually. But little change of spirality values was observed above a certain Ks values (cotton 22.5, polyester 21.5). 5. As Ks value increases, the elongation decreased under a certain load, and the recovery was random.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.25 no.4
• /
• pp.92-108
• /
• 2021

The purpose of this study was to develop a free semester program using sustainable materials therefore improving the clothing & textiles section of the middle school textbook and the systematic and in-depth sustainable fashion education based on theme selection activity, as one of free semester system activities in the middle school. Our analysis on the programs, which was performed from 2018 to 2019, showed that the clothing & textiles programs were majorly focused making simple household items through basic needlework and knitting. The programs that related to the sustainable fashion education were environmental programs associated with other textbooks, or mainly included simple upcycling and were mainly operated as arts & physical education or club activities, rather than theme selection programs. According to results from a questionnaire survey on teachers incharge of the system, they had an intention of starting sustainable fashion education program or clothing & textiles section but failed due to low number of participants, practice cost, and time burden. Based on our analysis, this study proposed a 17-session based free semester program that includes the understanding of the sustainable fashions concept, classification of sustainable materials and systematic and stepwise practice in association with the middle school textbook clothing & textile section. The teaching materials developed in this study are expected to be incorporated in the program that helps students understand the right concept of sustainable fashions and respond to the pending environmental issue actively and systematically.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.21 no.3
• /
• pp.121-136
• /
• 2019

The fashion market is expanding and competition is intensifying due to the contraction of consumption in response to the economic recession and changes in trends. In this study, design characteristics reflecting the brand identity and trend are analyzed as important factors for success. In this study, we will look at the design characteristics of knitwear among SPA brand products and help to plan knit designs. First, six brands were selected based on the sales and the number of stores in domestic and foreign SPA brands. The selected brands include UNIQLO, ZARA, H&M, SPAO, TOPTEN, and 8Seconds. We have selected weft knitting knitwear products(1,736 pieces), which are currently sold in domestic and foreign SPA brands, as silhouette items, knitwear design items, gauges, colors, patterns, images, and items as analysis items to analyze the causes of the differences in the design characteristics of domestic and foreign knitwear. The SPA brand has a wide range of tattoo floors, emphasizing practical aspects, a silhouette that fits the body, and a comfortable daily style. Domestic and foreign SPA brands did not show much difference, but Korean brands had a lower diversity of organization and used color for stable sales, showing a lower concern in trend and strong point color applications. If foreign brands pursue femininity based on a sexy image, Korean brands displayed a difference, emphasizing cute images. As for other design factors, it was found that brand identity was reflected more than domestically. As the cycle of trends becomes shorter, fast fashion is expected to continue in the future, and it is hoped that this research will be used as useful data for design projects of domestic companies.

• Safety and Health at Work
• /
• v.12 no.1
• /
• pp.74-95
• /
• 2021

Background: A job-exposure matrix (JEM) is an important surrogate indicator to evaluate past exposure levels. Although a Korean asbestos JEM has been constructed previously, this JEM includes only a few industrial and occupational groups. This study aimed to reconstruct the JEM by integrating the latest organized data to improve its utility. Methods: We used recent Korean standard industry and occupation codes and extracted 36 articles from a systematic literature review to initiate the reconstruction of the previous Korean asbestos JEM. The resulting data consisted of 141 combinations of industrial and occupational groups. Data from the Netherlands's JEM were also reviewed and categorized into 70 industrial and 117 occupational groups by matching with the Korean data. We also utilized Germany's data, which consisted of 10 industrial and 14 occupational groups. Results: The reconstructed Korean asbestos JEM had 141 combinations of industries and occupations. The time periods are from the 1980s to the 2000s in 10-year intervals. Most of the data were distributed between the 1990s and the 2000s. Occupations with high exposure to asbestos included knitting and weaving machine operators, automobile mechanics or assemblers, ship mechanics or assemblers, mineral ore and stone products processing mechanics, and metal casting machine operators or mold makers. Conclusions: The reconstructed Korean asbestos JEM has expanded the type and duration of the occupational groups of the previous JEM and can serve as an important reference tool for evaluating asbestos exposure and designing compensation and prevention policies in Korea.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
• /
• v.24 no.2
• /
• pp.1-10
• /
• 2022

The purpose of this study is to analyze the structural properties of 100% wool fabrics knitted with various stitch types and to evaluate dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying. Materials were weft-knitted from twenty-four different stitches with 7 gauge using a computerized flatbed knitting machine. Weight, thickness, density, and length were measured. A domestic washing machine and a tumble dryer were used for the shrinkage test. The results are as follows: Knitted fabrics were divided into 3 groups based on weight per unit area. Porous knits show light weight whilst milano, pintuck, rib stitches belong to the heaviest group. A positive correlation between weight and thickness was found and the same result was obtained for wale density and weight. Dimensional shrinkage of knitted fabrics was increased during repetitive wet cleaning and drying regardless of knit stitches. Especially, fabrics knitted with float, tuck, cable, and links & links stitches samples were contracted more than 15% in the first treatment whereas 2x1 rib stitch showed 1% shrinkage rate. Fisherman and milano stitches contracted in both course and wale direction with similar shrinkage rates. However, porous knits with float and tuck stitches shrank in course direction by 20% as well as cable samples contracted from 5% to 20% after repeated washing and drying. On the other hand, 30% and 15% contraction of wale direction occurred in orderly float and links & links stitches, respectively. Machine dried knits have a higher shrinkage rate than air-dried knits, but the drying method did not affect to the direction of contraction. In conclusion, variations of knit, tuck, and float stitches affect knit construction and dimensional stability from shrinkage in wet cleaning and drying of wool knitted fabrics.

• The Journal of the Korea Contents Association
• /
• v.22 no.10
• /
• pp.213-224
• /
• 2022

This study aims to propose the directions of design strategies and product development by analyzing the style types and design features of sneakers using the knitted upper which has been rapidly increasing due to merits in a variety of aspects including goods, production and marketing aspects. To this end, this study analyzed total 924 style types which had been gaining popularity in online markets and brand products drawing attention in the sneaker market with the knitted upper and their design features. In accordance with the analysis results, uniqueness was identified as the first merit. The unique hybrid style and design of sneakers with the knitted upper have been established without complying with the conventional materials and production techniques. The next merit was multimodality. The sneakers with the knitted upper create multiple images highlighting each feature of colors and materials by mixing those elements in various ways. The third merit was experimentality. The sneakers with the knitted upper have been attempted decisive change of designs by combining more engineering approach and new materials and techniques than existing sneakers. In these days when the sneaker market has been gradually expanded, the analysis results of this study reflecting the industrial trends will provide the fundamental data for a variety of research activities related to shoes and for the direction of brand planning in the relevant industries.