• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권1호
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• pp.109-117
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• 2010

편성물은 여러 가지 형태의 편성 조직을 얻기 위해서 횡편기나 환편기 등의 다양한 니트 편기를 이용하여 다양한 형태의 니트 편환과 조건에 의해서 편성을 하게 된다. 입체적인 형태의 니트 편지는 각기 다른 니트 편환 조직의 병용, 다양한 편사의 이용, 또는 여러 가지 가공공정 등을 거쳐서 얻을 수 있다. 본 연구는 컴퓨터화된 자동 횡편기를 이용하여 편성에 있어서 기본이 되는 조직인 리브편과 펄편의 편성조직을 효과적으로 혼합 편성하여 새로운 형태의 입체 니트구조를 갖는 편지를 개발하는데 그 목적이 있다. 이러한 입체 니트조직을 바탕으로 하여 몇 가지 다른 형태의 입체구조를 갖는 편성물을 개발하고, 새로운 형태의 니트 패션 의복을 제작한다. 또한 리브편과 펄편에 의한 입체 편성조직의 원리와 특성 등에 대하여 논한다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.280-287
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• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 위편성포의 역학적 성질값들의 조합값이 직불의 변형거동에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지에 대하여 편성조직과 편성밀도를 달리하여 살펴보고자 하였다. 위편성포 6종류를 선택하여 ($1{\times}1$ 고무편, 편반편, 편대편, 인터록편, 싱글피케, 크로스미스 인터록) 각각 편성밀도를 3가지(loose, medium, tight)로 달리하여 총 18종류의 위편성포를 제작하였다. 단위면적당 무게에 대한 굽힘 히스테리시스의 비인 2HB/W는 모든 편성조직에서 편성밀도가 증가함에 따라 커지며 싱글니트보다는 더블니트에서 더 큰 값을 보인다. 전단성질 중 탄성성분에 대한 소성성분의 비인 2HG/G는 모든 편성조직과 편성밀도에서 3이상의 매우 높은 값을 나타냈다. 표면의 요철변동에 대한 마찰계수의 변동비, 즉 MMD/SMD값은 편성밀도가 커질수록 감소하여 표면상태가 평활해짐을 알 수 있으며 더블 니트가 싱글니트보다 더 적은 값을 나타내어 표면의 평활도가 훨씬 우수한 것으로 나타났다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제26권4호
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• pp.1-13
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• 1988

The purpose of this study is to investigate water and after vapor transport characteristics of underwear fabrics. Experimental materials were cotton woven fabric and cotton knitted fabric, nylon tricot (untreated and hydrophilic finished) and cotton/polyester/cotton triple layer. Cotton knitted fabric have three types of knit structure (interlock, rib, plain stitch) and knit with either 38's or 60's combed yarn. And cotton woven fabric have plain weave with 60's combed yarn. As experimental methods, vapor cup test, dynamic method, vertical wicking test and transplanar uptake test were used. The results are as follows. 1) In cotton specimens, the order of water vapor transpiration (wvt) was plain > rib > interlock in the same yarn diameter. The knit fabric of thinner yarn showed the better wvt among the same knit structure. 2) In cotton specimens, the order of water absorbency was interlock > rib > plain in the same yarn diameter. the knit fabric of thicker yarn showed the better absorbency among the same knit structure. 3) When knit fabric (60's plain) is compared with woven fabric 960's plain), knit fabric showed faster rate of wvt, more amount of uptake and slower rate of water uptake than woven fabric did. 4) When compared untreated nylon with hydrophilic finished nylon, hydrophilic finished nylon showed much more water absorbency than untreated nylon did, but showed same rate of wvt. 5) The water transport characteristics of triple layer underwear fabric showed that the thinner and the lighter one, the better wvt and absorbency did.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2008

This study aims to consolidate the qualitative growth of knit design thru the creation of high value-added brand and design, in the state of active trend for competitive promotion of professional knit brand, by collapsing the border line between the knitwear market and the woven one. In accordance with the market situation of increasing a demand of knitwear products, I wish to awaken the importance of knit design thru this study, to survey domestic knit brand products and their planning directions and to plan for the high value-added knitwear products, thru presenting the problems of knit industry and developing knitwear design. This study is focused on showing process of planning and items developed personally by me in charge of developing products practically at the job site of knit industry. From the stage of planning for goods, I suggested the 2007 s/s goods of M company as a strategy of distinctiveness caused by the problems with rival companies, and also proposed a method conducted by the actual business. Setting up M company's s/s concept of the year 2007, I suggested a plan of quantity, time of forwarding, color, fabrics, etc. as well as the process and schedule thru order, and based on the above result, I made a planning for 2007 s/s knitwear for middle-aged women.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제37권5호
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• pp.715-723
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• 2013

This develops a new and advanced S/S knitwear material made of linen/bamboo blended yarn. Linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were compared with linen/polyester knitted fabrics in terms of appearance as well as physical and comfort properties. Rib knitted fabrics were remarkably thicker than plain knitted fabrics. Knitted fabrics based on polyester yarns were heavier than those based on bamboo yarn. The porosity decreased in the following order: linen 100% > bamboo 100% > polyester 100%. The drape properties of bamboo 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The pilling resistances of linen 100% and linen/bamboo knitted fabrics were excellent. The highest and lowest air permeability was observed in the case of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics and polyester 100% knitted fabrics, respectively. The instant cool-feeling was enhanced as the bamboo yarns were blended. The thermal conductivity of linen 100% knitted fabrics was the highest and the thermal conductivity of linen/bamboo knitted fabrics was higher than linen/polyester knitted fabrics. Bamboo 100% knitted fabrics showed a higher moisture regain than polyester 100% knitted fabrics. The results confirmed the superior appearance and comfort of a novel S/S knit wear material made of linen/bamboo knitted fabric.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제29권8호
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• pp.1158-1167
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• 2005

The purpose of this study is to examine the effect of structural properties of plain knit fabrics on the subjective textures and sensibilities of consumers. We investigated the relationship of subjective textures and sensibilities according to fiber contents of wool/rayon and stitch loop length. We made 20 plain knit fabrics, as specimens, with a combination of 5 kinds of fiber contents and 4 kinds of stitch loop length. A factor analysis showed that subjective textures are classified into 3 categories with $R^2=70.32\%$: 'surface-rough', 'drapable', 'bulky' and 'elastic' and subjective sensibilities into 3 categories with $R^2=68.12\%$: 'stable/neat', 'feminine/elegant' and 'natural/comfortable'. The fiber contents of wool/rayon had a positive and linear relation with 'surface-rough', but had a relatively non-linear one with 'bulky' and 'elastic' categories of textures, and 'feminine/elegant' of sensibilities. The stitch loop length had a linear influence on 'drapable' and 'stable/neat', but had a non-linear influence on other subjective textures and sensibilities.

• 한국생활환경학회지
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.533-540
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• 2017

This study analyzes the stretchability and clothing pressure of fabrics made from stretchy knit materials, and uses the baseline data to develop various functional clothing made from stretchy knit fabrics. To observe the changes in the stretchability and clothing pressure, we observed the compatibility of the two materials (tricot and power-net), presence of flat seam, fabric layering, and flat seam direction as key variables. A standard test method for stretch properties (ASTM D2594) was used for measuring the stretchability of the material. Clothing pressure measurements were analyzed in terms of the mean and standard deviation values, and the correlation of the stretchability. In the case of tricot, the presence of flat seam increased the stretchability of the fabric regardless of the fabric layering. However, when tricot and the less stretchable power-net were combined, the presence of flat seam did not increase the stretchability. Flat seam did not interfere with or limit the stretchability of the fabric, but they did increase the clothing pressure at the seam. The stretchability had a negative correlation with the clothing pressure except along the flat seam.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.89-102
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• 2004

Modern society is age of sports just as health and leisure became dominant concern, which has caused the fixation and development to sports wear considered as fashion for everyday dress. This paper focused on the development process and aesthetic characteristics of knit design expressed in the 20th century sports wear. The importance and direction of knit design in modern sports wear is expected. Style, items, fabrics, colors, details and top designers were analyzed in sports wear from the 1910' s to 1990' s. Sports wear can be categorized into two of the active sports wear and spectator sports wear. Since disappearance of division between ordinary wear and sports fashion in the 1970' s, the functional wear of leggings, cycle shorts, exercise clothes, leotard, and leg warmer appeared. Vicennial developments of synthetic fibers and new fabrics have caused the great changes in knit design. Colors were vivid in the 1950' s, metallic in the 1970' s and neon in the 1990' s. Sportive sense was expressed by various details. The dominant knit designers who expressed aesthetic characteristics to sports wear were Coco Chanel, Claire McCardell, Balenciaga, Andre Courrege, Pierre Cardin, Yves Saint-Laurent, Ralph Lauren, Donna Karan, and Giogio Armani.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제8권3호
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• pp.17-25
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• 2006

We performed the objective sensibility evaluation on knitted fabrics by the following procedures: setting acrylic fabrics with knitted fabrics as basis, knitted five kinds of blended spun yarns and four kinds of twisted filament yams made by different twisting methods(the amount and direction of twist) then, measuring mechanical properties in the use Kawabata Evaluation System, obtaining hand values and total hand values. The results are as follows: First, A(F)/W acrylic/wool spun knits obtain high scores in bending, compressing, shear properties, MMD, and thickness among five kinds of acrylic-blended knit fabrics. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knit represented prominent values at compressing properties and thickness and so wool-blended yams demonstrated superior characters comparing other blended yarns. To contrast, acrylic/rayon blended knits showed low scores in bending properties, shear properties and thickness, so that it affects to total hand values. On the one hand, among the four kinds of acrylic filament knitted fabrics, they do not exhibit any notable dynamic differences such as tensile properties of knitted fabrics by the twist number and direction of filament yarns, bending, shear, compressing properties, weight and thickness except surface properties. Second, fabrics showed the most high score at FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) among the hand values. A(S)/W acrylic/wool blended knits obtaining the lowest values at SAHRI (crispness) outrank at total hand values, so that it was the predominant knitted fabric in objective sensibility evaluation. In total hand values, five kinds of acrylic blended knits got a higher score than four kinds of acrylic filament knits, and the amount and direction of twist did not influence on total hand values among the four kinds of acrylic filaments.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제19권5호
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• pp.1-16
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• 2015

The appearances and geometry structures of knitted fabrics have important effects on their functions as textile fabrics. Structural design of the woven fabric, prior to the manufacturing processes in the weaving mill, often leads to a similar predictable appearance in the final outcome with the corresponding weave design. The increase of the employment of elastic textile yarns in knitting fabrics for comfort stretch or outdoor sports wear knit products has, however, resulted in difficulties in predicting the final appearance of the knit structure design. Due to the stretchability and exceptional recovery behavior of the elastic yarns such as polyurethane elastomeric yarns, the appearance of the final product often differs from the initial knit design. At textile CAD program for preparing tricot knit designs has been employed in this study to predict the two dimensional appearance of the design. The similarities between the designs and corresponding knit products seem to be acceptable for the two-dimensional textile CAD program in this study. However, when elastomeric yarns are partially employed in the polyester filament tricot product, a considerable amount of departure from the design is apparent due to the constriction and/or deformation of property differences in the elastomeric yarns and polyester filament yarns. Therefore, another purpose of this study is to measure the departure of the final tricot product from the initial tricot design, especially in the case employing elastomeric yarns in the knit structure together with regular polyester filament yarns. For measuring the three-dimensional departure, a 3D scanning system has been used for the mesh reconstruction of the fabric specimen. Hopefully, the result from this study will be used as a guide to modify and improve the current textile CAD program proposed for the two-dimensional simulation of the tricot.