• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.990-995
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• 2011

This study analyzed the effects of the knit stitch type, fiber composition, and yarn thickness on the mechanical properties of knitted fabric. The results were as follows: The course density was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. On the other hand, the wale density was the highest in the case of the float stitch. The thickness was the highest in the case of the rib stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses considered in this study. The burst strength of wool knit fabric was higher than that of A/W knit fabric. The stiffness was the lowest in the case of the plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The pilling properties were excellent for all knit stitches, fiber composition, and yarn thicknesses as pilling degree : 5. The air permeability decreased in the following order : rib > plain > float stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses. The heat retention rate decreased in the following order : rib > float > plain stitch. The same results were obtained even for different fiber compositions and yarn thicknesses.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제43권4호
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• pp.59-66
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• 2011

This study was carried out to develop the automation bark peeling process of paper mulberry for making Hanji. Nowadays, almost raw material has been imported from south-east asia for making Hanji. Raw material dependence is very high for Hanji-making by low productivity in korea. This study is focused on the resolution for problem of bark peeling automation. Water and sand jet of compressed air was possible bark peeling for black bast fiber. The effect of removing black bast fiber increased the longer the steaming time. Also using drum of bark peeling showed that results under temperature $80^{\circ}C$ and Rpm 50/min were best bark peeling and separating bast fiber from stem. The contents of holocellulose, lignin, ethanol-benzene extractives, and ash were 91.63~95.55%, 1.4~2.0%, 1.12~1.65%, and 1.4~4.3%, respectively. Chemical characteristics are similar between imported raw-material with drum bark.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권2호
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• pp.180-197
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• 2016

The purpose of this study is to create knit ruffles that represent the aesthetic and artistic values of painted works of art that rhythmically express flower petals and add an artistic impression on the knit ruffle designs. This study is based on the artistic life of Georgia O'Keeffe and changes in her artistic background, and the world of paintings. The relevant data was gathered from domestic and foreign references, academic journals, and the internet. The characteristics of Georgia O'Keeffe paintings were examined. Her paintings typically include a series of various motifs, symmetry, balance, and harmony of detailed realistic expressions and abstract elements, repetition, and the principles of contrast and emphasis in shaping. The decoration techniques used on fabrics were applied using the knitting machine which controls the tension to develop a variety of textures, apart from the previous standardized knit textures, through various knitting techniques. A gradation effect was then applied by piece-dyeing the knitted materials in various colors to express asimilarity to the original colors in O'Keeffe's works with delicate color expressions. After the piece-dyeing, the decorative knitted materials were trimmed on a model to re-create the natural curves of flower petals. This study aims to converge works of art with fashion designs to develop various creative knitted fashion and to impart an artistic sense in the fashion design industry.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제16권3호
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• pp.125-135
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• 2012

Since knitted textile products mostly do not require long span of time from the conception to the final products, they have lead the fashion trends during the recent decades. Developments in the textile engineering industries, and computer software and hardware industries have made the 3D virtual clothing software system easily accessible by the fashion/textile industry personnel. The simulated models of apparel products using the state-of-the-art virtual clothing systems are, however, not the replica of real-world garments. Moreover, the garments do not maintain fixed shapes during wearing. Deformations at low external stress lead to difficulties in predicting the behavior of the knitted garments. Therefore, there is a need to compare the differences in appearances, textures, or other related properties between simulated fabrics and actual fabrics. Three knit stitches including jersey, rib, and cable stitches are examined in this study. The differences between fluffy thick yarns and thin yarns are also compared using 3D scanning and surface reconstruction. Obtained three-dimensional data regarding the reconstructed knit specimens would help to build a data base for estimating the behavior of the 3D models of the knitted garments.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권4호
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• pp.137-147
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• 2010

This study set out to make experimental clothes by giving variations to the connecting part of a seamless sweater, propose designs and composition approaches to improve the wearing sensation and satisfaction with appearance through wearing trials, and provide basic data that would be of practical help to follow-up study on seamless knit and the growth of seamless knit in the Korean knit industry. The connecting part is the biggest characteristic and the most important part in seamless knitwear and affect the functionality and fitness of the clothes and the appearance of the armhole. The investigator thus made five different pieces of experimental clothes according to the composition methods for connecting part and put them to the test by a group of experts for appearance assessment. The assessment results were analyzed through Analysis of variance(ANOVA), and the items with similar results were put to the Duncan test for intergroup comparison. According to the analysis results, experimental clothes C and E received the highest evaluation in almost every assessment item, whereas experimental clothes A did the lowest appearance evaluation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.122-128
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• 2010

This study examined several dyeing properties, physiological responses and comfort sensation of cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal. The cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and treated with chitosan showed 99.9% antibacterial property and improved deodorization, and colorfastness. Eight children with atopic dermatitis worn underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal during 4 months. Their parents reported fewer itches of children. Wearing cotton knit underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal and non-dyed with bamboo charcoal respectively, these eight children rested for 20 minutes, then exercised for 10 minutes, and then rested for 30 minutes in the room maintained $28{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ and $50{\pm}5%R.H.$ Children's rectal temperature, skin temperature and microclimate inside garment of two types of cotton knit underwear were compared. As a result, the rectal temperature and skin temperature were higher when children were wearing underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal than non-dyed underwear. The microclimate temperature and microclimate humidity at the back of children were lower when children with underwear dyed with bamboo charcoal exercised and recovered.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.532-542
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• 2014

This study developed a practical knitwear design with applying the pattern of Queen Yeong's pearl pouch. The ume flower pattern of pearl pouch was simplified to be one repeat pattern, and four simulated knit pattern samples of G-A, G-B, R-A, and R-Bwere made with cable, cross, and two background colors of gray and red using Texpro V.11.0. The items of design application were selected after an interview with a panel of university students in their twenties and knit samples were produced by hand knitting. The small sized G-A for the partial ornament of hat, sweater, skirt, kitchenware case and accessories; the long sized G-B for the tuck of sleeves, hem of skirt and one-piece dress, partial ornament of sweater, scarf, and curtain decoration: the small sized R-A was preferred for point ornament of pouch, boots, hat, partial ornament of children's fashion products and accessories: the long sized R-B for table runner, leg warmer, tuck of sleeves, skirt hem, necktie, and scarf. The knit samples were formulated with partial ornaments attached on dress and props or connected each other. Colors of pastel and navy were also presented to meet the demands of panels. The study placed a limit on the slight difference between the simulation samples and knit samples due to the characteristics of threads and hand tension. The color variation for multiple coordination and activation to reduce the piece rate for young customers remains to be discussed in the near future.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제18권3호
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• pp.23-30
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• 2006

The bending properties, wrinkle resistance, and fabric retention behaviors of cotton knitted fabrics in the wale and course directions were studied for their dependence upon resin finishing, knit structure, and washing cycles. Stiffness, wrinkle recovery angles, and dimensional stability were investigated before and after resin finishing and laundering. It has been found that any change in the physical properties of the knitted fabrics with respect to knit structure and fabric directions are related to accompanying modifications to the state of the fiber properties. The decrease of fabric shrinkage rates and wrinkle recovery properties from increasing laundering cycles is related with resin incorporated on the fiber surface. This study shows that resin finishing on knitted fabrics can be performed only to improve fabric retention properties with reduced wrinkle recovery properties.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.11-20
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• 2011

The yarn company needs to conform to the consumers' sensibility, which has become diverse, in developing its yarn, which fixes the matter property and the sensibility in knit product. In particular, the development of fancy yarn, which is expected to have great influence upon the sensibility of material due to being a diverse form of knit yarn, may increase activation of the knit industry. Eight different fancy yarns were chosen: loop, Ratine, tam tam, fur 1, fur 2, chenille, ladder and tape yarn. The manufacturing methods of these yarns are all different. The sensibility was evaluated through a questionnaire targeting 60 women in their 20s of the expert group. Factor analysis, reliability, correlation analysis, ANOVA, Duncan, and regression analysis were carried out by using SPSS 12.0. First, according to the results of analyzing the sense factor, three factors were extracted: 'inflexibleness/rugged', 'lightweight' and 'smooth'. 'Activity', 'grace' and 'purity' were extracted in regard to the sensibility factor. H3(tam tam) sample showed high value in all of preference, purchase intention and word-of-mouth intention. To increase consumers' preference, purchase intention, and word-of-mouth intention, its effect is thought to be likely to be possibly seen only when increasing the factor of pure and simple grace and when reducing the hard and stiff inflexibleness/ruggedness sense. It is expected to be likely to possibly secure marketability as knit product, which has product competitiveness, given the product planning in a company of producing knit.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제19권4호
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.