• 복식문화연구
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• 제10권4호
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• pp.319-335
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• 2002

Nongae was the official Kinye(관기) who had exhisted, her portrait was enshrined at an ancestral tablet hall beside Choksukloo. This portrait of Nongae was a work of a painter, Un Ho-Kim. In any case, a study on the costume of the portrait of one person must be taken the costume of the period. This study investigates the character of clothing style in King Sunjo 26(1593) and in her present portrait. And so, her portrait who was enshrined at the place didn't agree with it's clothing in King Sunjo 26(1593) The results of this study are as follows : The portrait of Nongae took the costume style of the beginning of about 1910. and so this style was different from the style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593). The style of costume, King Sunjo 26(1593) : Jacket : It's jacket was long(near hip) and broad, it's sleeve length was long, it's form was a straight line. Skirt : It's skirt was very long. It's silhouette was formed a soft line The costume of the figure in this picture in wrong from historical point of view. And so, the costume of Nongae in the portrait must adjust it in the clothing style of about 1593.

• 보존과학회지
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• 제32권1호
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• pp.51-61
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• 2016

어진御眞은 왕의 초상화로 조선시대에는 국조인 태조를 비롯하여 다수의 어진이 제작되어 영흥 준원전, 전주 경기전 등 여러 진전眞殿에 봉안奉安되었다. 이러한 어진은 이모移摸 과정을 통해 전해지고 있으며, 훼손된 어진의 경우 모사模寫 과정을 토대로 신본新本을 제작하였다. 근래에는 어진에 대한 다양한 학술적인 가치와 국민적인 관심 증대로 인하여 이모 작업이 활발하게 진행되고 있다. 국립고궁박물관에서는 다수의 어진을 보유하고 있는데, 소장본중 대부분이 한국전쟁 중 화재로 인해 손상된 상태로, 이모본 제작 과정에 필요한 초본 제작을 위해서는 범본範本이 되는 어진의 훼손된 부분에 관한 복원이 필요하다. 이 논문에서는 다분할 촬영 기법 및 이미지 분석 등의 디지털 이미징 기술을 활용하여, 국립고궁박물관 소장 태조어진의 훼손된 부분을 복원하는 과정과 이를 통해 밝혀진 태조어진 유물들의 용안의 차이를 중심으로 각 유물의 관계에 대해 연구한 것이다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제35권12호
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• pp.1409-1417
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• 2011

This study examines King Louis XVI costumes and his portraits according to symbolic meanings. This study analysis of costumes comes from portraits related various domestic and overseas literature, preliminary study papers, and web sites. Omnipotence, activity, nobility, openness and benevolence were distinguished in the symbolic meaning expressed in the portraits of King Louis XVI. Louis XVI in a portrait was drawn with god or expressed as a martyr and symbolically showed the omnipotence of god. Louis XVI was symbolized as almighty god by maximizing the authority and dignity of the king through the hands of justice that were used as a background or portrait accessory and a costume with the symbol of House of Bourbon. Kings of many generations were expressed as authoritative through portraits. However, Louis XVI showed a proletarian aspect in ordering portraits to reflect the daily working image of communicating with citizens. Active images such as the king riding a horse or administering the state affairs were emphasized in a political and military perspective; in addition, the benevolence of the king was symbolically presented through a family portrait. This symbolically signified that the king is a warm-hearted person who passionately takes care of state affairs and loves the people through a noble element coming from pastel colors and attributes of red colors. Historically, the political incompetence and indifference of kings was fragmentally emphasized; however, these portraits considered the king as one who tried to fulfill duties as the true king with a great interest in politics and the people.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제14권1호
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• pp.57-70
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• 2005

This study is the consideration about Hwaryeong-Jeon that enshrines Joseon Dynasty 22nd king Jeongjo's portrait of a king. Suwon's Hwaryeong-Jeon that accompanied a portrait and performed ritual ceremonies had several formalities and ceremonies which are connected with rituals. therefore, we will try to examine what relation between arrangement of building and plane composition had. And through this, it is thing to observe construction special quality that Hwaryeong-Jeon has. Joseon Dynasty's young-jeon (a hall where the royal portraits are kept) is retaining each other different state according to construction age every moment. Hwaryeong-Jeon among Joseon Dynasty's a hall of royal portraits is the construction form which is equiped well and is known for keeping the form well from the foundation to now And this building is evaluated as the standard form of early part young-jeon building of 19th century. Especially, Hwaryeong-Jeon shows the typical ritual equipments late Joseon Dynasty and at the same time has all kinds of characteristics which only we can find at Hwaryeong-Jeon. Namely, Hwaryeong-Jeon is the building which brings the design concept of the hall of royal portraits to completion as the building which enshrines single portrait of a king. After all, Hwaryeong-Jeon is evaluated as the building which can pass excellent form of late Joseon Dynasty, the hall of royal portraits building just as it is. Therefore, as I study its own style, I expect Joseon Dynasty's mind that enshrined the portrait of a king elaborately to be revealed.

• 복식
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• 제60권1호
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• pp.135-144
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• 2010

This study is on the reproduction of King Sejong's costume presented in at the National Classical Music Institute in the late of 2008. The performance was presented focusing on the idea of ceremonial music of hoi-ryeyeon produced in the reign of king(1433). The reproduction of King Sejong's costume was undertaken to keep pace with the times and to pay due regard to the performance costume. The implications of the study are as follows. King Sejong's Hoi-ryeyeon ceremonial costume is a royal robe(gonryongpo), the best one of king's clothing. The basic type of gonryongpo is that of fastening four yongbos to danryoung. The type of gonryongpo is, therefore, made with reference to unearthed articles and portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The yongbo is larger one than the late period of the Yi dynasty in the light of portrait of the first king of the Yi dynasty. The supporting type of gonryongpo is that of gonryongpo, dapho, and chulrik, king's dress granted by Myeong dynasty. In the late period jikryeong was used as supporting dress and fixed to be lining and included jikryeong. Therefore the order of supporting dress was jikryeong, dapho and chulrik and was reproduced with reference to unearthed articles in the early Yi dynasty, as did the small piece of crown, belt and shoes.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제23권1호
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• pp.74-84
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• 2015

The purpose of this study is to examine symbolic meanings of costumes shown by portraits of King Henry VIII and use them as basic data for research on costume design of historical dramas in the Renaissance or on King Henry VIII's costume. This study attempted analysis of symbolic meanings from the paintings-related various domestic and overseas literatures, preliminary study paper, and web sites etc. The symbolic meanings expressed by the portraits of King Henry VIII are characterized by authority, innovation performance, authority, masculinity, innovation performance, artistic taste, intellectual charm, intrepidity and benevolence. Especially, the portraits of King Henry VIII symbolized his masculine beauty by emphasizing sexual attractiveness that cannot be seen in portraits of other kings through broad shoulders and exaggerated codpiece which are the zenith of masculine beauty during the Renaissance age. Through the image of King Henry VIII which was painted with jester or barber surgeons, his characteristic and open mind thinking highly of the technique and human life was also expressed. In the portrait of King Henry VIII, various images set in knights' tournament, playing a musical instrument and reading a book as well as the image of wearing a parliament costume were shown, highlighting King Henry VIII as a person good at both literary and martial arts with open and innovative personality than any other kings in history.

• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
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• 제53권3호
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• pp.142-163
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• 2020

조선 전기 적개공신(1467, 1476 초상 제작)과 정국(1506)·정난공신(1507), 위사공신(1545) 초상까지를 아청색 흑단령 차림이 등장하여 정착하는 '관복 제2기' 공신 초상으로 규정하고 적개공신 손소, 오자치, 장말손 초상 3점, 그리고 정국·정난공신 유순정과 홍경주, 정국공신 이우와 유홍의 초상 4점, 총 7점을 대상으로 분석하였다. '예복 흑단령' 차림의 적개공신 초상의 사모는 성종 초 높아졌던 모체가 다시 낮아졌고 모정은 둥글게 표현되었다. 너비가 넓은 타원형의 사모 양각에 무늬는 표현되지 않았다. 아청색 단령과 답호, 철릭에도 무늬가 표현되지 않았다. 단답호와 철릭의 색상이 각각 녹색과 홍색으로 통일되었으며 단령과 답호의 무는 '안팎주름무'로, 신발은 백화로 표현되었다. 적개공신 초상은 책록 시의 품계가 아닌, 초상 제작 시의 품계로 그려졌음을 보여 주었다는 점에서 주목할 만하다. '시복 흑단령' 차림의 정국·정난공신 초상은 사모의 경우, 적개공신 초상에서 낮아진 사모 모체의 형태는 그대로 유지되었으나 모정 부분이 조금 좁아지고 앞으로 휜 형태로 변하였으며 사모 양각은 전체적으로 너비가 균일한 타원형으로 표현되었다. 그리고 전 시기와 마찬가지로 사모 양각에도 무늬가 표현되지 않았다. 당하관 초상의 복식에는 무늬가 표현되지 않았으나 당상관 초상의 복식에는 운문(雲紋) 등이 표현되기 시작하였다. 또 단령은 안감 없는 홑단령으로 표현되었다. 당상관 초상에서는 홍색 답호와 녹색 철릭을, 당하관 초상에서는 녹색 답호와 남색 철릭이 표현되었다. 따라서 당상·당하 신분에 따라 받침옷의 색상이 구별되었음을 알 수 있었다. 단령과 답호에는 '안팎주름무'가 그대로 유지되었다. 신발은 흑화로 표현되었으며 흉배와 품대는 공신 책록 당시의 품계가 반영되어 있었다. 한편 위사공신 초상은 확인할 수 없었으나 명종대의 기록화를 통해 중종대의 단령 제도와 유사함을 알 수 있었다. 이상으로 살펴 본 제2기 적개공신 공신 초상을 통해 흑단령 차림을 공신 초상의 관복으로 사용하기 시작하였다는 점, 공신 초상 제작 시기의 품계를 초상에 반영하였다는 점을 확인할 수 있었다. 정국공신 초상 이후 복식에 무늬가 표현되기 시작하였는데 특히 흑단령의 무늬 유무로 당상·당하를 구별할 수 있게 되었다. 그리고 표현된 관복 모습은 당시의 관복 규정이나 관행과 일치함을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.801-814
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• 2016

This study uses the "Sejong chronicles" ritual manual to investigate the movements and roles of provincial governors during the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait, the official uniforms of the provincial governors in their roles, and the characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the early Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. Provincial governors who participated in the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait were governors 'en route' and governors 'in destination'. The movements of the governor 'en route' followed the provincial borders, official residences, and neighboring provincial borders. The movements of the governor 'in destination' followed the provincial borders, the official residence, and jinjeon. The roles of the governors included the welcoming ceremony, the bow-down ceremony, the front guard, and the farewell ceremony. The governors 'en route' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and a Sibok in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The governor 'in destination' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and Jobok (or Sibok if Jobok was not available) in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the Joseon Dynasty were as follows. First, the governors wore different uniforms depending on the importance of the rituals in the early Joseon Dynasty. Second, the names of official uniforms Sang-bok and Si-bok were used interchangeably in the early Joseon Dynasty. Third, local governors were allowed to wear Sangbok (or Sibok) instead of Jobok.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.53-69
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• 2004

Located in a rear garden of Changdeok Palace, Yeonkyeong-Dang is valued as the most characteristic building of the houses of aristocrats of the later Joseon Dynasty. The time of the construction has been much debated, however, it is perceived through this research that the construction was completed in September 1827(the 27nd year of king Sunjo's reign). The shape of the buildings during this period resembles a letter ㄷ as shown in the picture of Dong-Kweol. We previously described that the purpose of Yeonkyeong-Dang was to carry the portrait of king Yikjong while keeping the shape of building when it was first established until the 8th year of king Heonjong (1842). In 1865 (the 2nd year of king Gojong's reign), it was reconstructed with very different outlook which has remained the present shape. The characteristic features of the residences of aristocrats were reflected in newly reconstructed Yeonkyeong-Dang. The structure was largely divided into two quarters that occupied by male and female residents respectively. The two quarters were bordered by fences and added with a study and a pavilion. The reconstruction was conducted by king Gojong's father, Daewon- Goon and its purpose was to prepare a separate house for the king and queen before the kings wedding that was about to come. During the 19th century, building an imitation of houses of aristocrats became quite a trend in the palace. Built in 1847, Nakseon-Jae was precedented and followed by Yeonkyeong-Dang. Also later Geoncheong Palace was built in Kyeongbok Palace in 1873. All of the three buildings imitated houses of aristocrats. Divided residences of male and female sections and splendid decorations were common features. Nakseon-Jae was the smallest in the structure of spaces, ornamentation of details and its sizes, Yeonkyeong-Dang was the second and Geoncheong Palace was the most distinguished building. The constructions of these three buildings created an innovative architectural wave in the 19th century palace. Yeonkyeong-Dang was the building that mediated the new flow of architectural structure in the 19th century palace.

• 한국문헌정보학회지
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• 제56권3호
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• pp.213-239
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• 2022

이 연구는 근대화에 앞서 국내외적으로 가장 혼란스러웠던 고종 시대사 속에서, 왕실도서관(규장각)의 변천 과정을 연대순으로 정리하고 그 흐름을 분석하여 통시적 의미를 찾고자 시도되었다. 이를 위해 첫째, 고종대 왕실도서관과 개인도서관 역할을 한 고종의 서재와 도서 수장처 전체 현황을 조사했다. 둘째, 조사 현황을 바탕으로, 고종대 초기 왕실도서관부터 대한제국 시기 황실도서관까지 이어지는 변천 과정과 그 의미를 조선왕조실록, 승정원일기, 각종 서목 등 당시의 다양한 사료와 함께 고찰했다. 셋째, 경복궁, 창덕궁, 경운궁으로 이어지는 왕실도서관의 시·공간적 변화와 양상을 왕궁별로 도식화하여 정치·사회적 의미를 분석했다. 그 결과, 첫째, 고종은 규장각을 왕권을 강화하고, 근대화과정에서 서양 문화를 수용하는 장치로 활용했다. 둘째, 고종의 정치적 지향을 담은 핵심 공간인 어진 봉안처, 도서 수장처, 집무처는 경복궁, 창덕궁, 경운궁에 걸쳐 별전으로서 일곽을 이루며 점차 서구식 건축양식으로 변화했다.