• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.105-111
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• 1999

In order to introduce the touch to engineering and industries, it must be preceded to dstablish a quantitative barometer of the feeling. for this purpose, we developed a tactile measuring system to measure physical properties of texture, such as surface roughness, friction coefficient and compliance. The tactile measuring system uses a LASER type displacement sensor, which is a non-contacting system, in measuring the surface roughness. By considering that human tactile system is a contacting mechanism, this non-contacting method needs to be modified. As a precedent research of that, we compared the contacting and non-contacting method in this paper. Surface roughness of ten cloths were measured by using the measuring system, then compared to the test results using the Kawabata evaluation system(KES), which uses a contacting method in measuring the surface roughness.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.17 no.5 s.84
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• pp.26-36
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• 2005

This study was carried to evaluate mechanical characteristics of Poly(ethylene terephthalate) fabrics (by Kawabata evaluation system(KES)) which was systematically treated with $O_2$ low temperature plasma and chitosan acetate solution. Furthermore, surface structure was investigated by SEM, AFM, air permeability and wettability. Tensile energy(WT), shear rigidity(G) and surface roughness(MIU) properties calculated by KES-FB have increased with increasing plasma treatment time, while bending rigidity(G) and energy of compression(WC) value were decreased compared with those of the untreated. SEM photographs showed the identification of chitosan coating but did not confirm the plasma etching structure. Air permeability was decreased according to plasma treatment time with increasing concentrations of chitosan. The water absorption rate made rapid progress by chitosan treatment.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.23 no.5
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.125-135
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• 2007

Each cotton fiber is a unicellular hair collected from the seed of cotton plant. The fiber contains many convolutions along its length. Mercer was the first to suggest caustic soda treatment of cotton in commercial application. Mercerization has been commercially used since Lowe's suggestion to endow cotton with increased strength and affinity for dyes with additional properties such as fabric touch or luster. In this study, cotton fabric specimens were mercerized to investigate the changes in physical and mechanical properties pertaining to the hand or touch of fabrics. Physical properties were measured using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System).

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.4 no.4
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• pp.145-150
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• 2003

Polypropylene nonwoven fabrics were exposed to He/$O_2$ atmospheric pressure glow discharge plasma. Surface chemical analysis and contact angle measurement revealed the surface oxidation by formation of new functional groups after plasma treatment. Weight loss (%) measurement and scanning electron microscopy analysis showed a significant plasma etching effect. It was investigated in low-stress mechanical properties of the fabrics using Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-FB). The surface morphology change by plasma treatment increased surface friction due to an enhancement of fiber-to-fiber friction, resulting in change of other low-stress mechanical properties of fabric.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.30-47
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• 2013

In the modern fashion industry, efficiency has been increasing thanks to development of computer graphics, IT technology, and digitalization. Unlike the past when fashion design heavily depended on handwork, digitalization of fashion industry makes fabrication time shorter and enables designers to adopt comprehensive expression, generating high value-added product. The Apparel CAD, an example of the digitalized fashion industry, has been developed from 2D system into a system providing 3D simulation. Digital clothing can be determined as an activity of designers using the tool in order to fabricate pattern and simulate its designed clothes in the virtual space of computer. In this study, physical properties of eight materials, which can be utilized on a par with current fashion trend, have been specified. For more sophisticated investigation, external appearance of the material was investigated by 3D scanning. In order to examine the physical properties of fabric specimens, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) measurements and other physical property measurements were made. With the results, virtual material and clothes were simulated via CLO 3D, one of 3D apparel CAD systems. Then, virtual fabrics and clothes of similar types were generated and analyzed.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.13 no.3
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• pp.86-98
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• 2009

The fashion industry saw the emergence of environment-friendly and natural fabric materials recently. The naturalism trend has established sectors in the textile and fashion industry also. Ramie and hemp have long been favored fabric materials in Korea especially for summer. The hand-related mechanical/physical properties of the fabric specimens were analyzed using a fabric objective measurement system, KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). Subjective evaluation was also implemented based on a series of selected adjectives. Studies on natural dyeing methods are important since the establishment of scientific approach is needed in terms of environment and human safety along with the reproduction of traditional natural dyeing methods. In this study, linen, ramie, hemp, and cotton/polyester/linen union fabric specimens were used for the natural dyeing using Rubia akane Nakai with the mordant of gallnut. ${\Delta}E$ values of dyed fabric specimens, mordanted and dyed once using Rubia akane Nakai, increased significantly compared to those of repeatedly dyed fabric specimens without mordanting.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.121-128
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• 2003

A new textile material, poly(trimethylene terephthalate) polymer, has been introduced to the textile industry. The structure of PTT is similar to the PET, while the tensile deformation and subsequent recovery property is better than that of PET. In this study, the physical and mechanical properties of textile woven fabrics made of PTT, PET, and nylon 6 yarns as the filling yarn were determined using the Kawabata Evaluation System (KES), including tensile, bending, shearing, compression, and surface related parameters. On top of these measurements, the subjective ratings by evaluators were performed on the fabric samples. From the examination of the stress-strain behavior of the yarn specimens focused on the recovery mode, it was evident that the PTT specimen developed lower stress at 3% elongation. The subsequent recovery curve showed that the PTT has less stress-decay rate than the other specimens, implying that the recovery behavior of the PTT is recommendable for the end-uses including stretchable textile materials, sports wears, etc. The KES bending rigidity(B) value of the PTT sample fabric was lower than that of the PET sample fabric. Subjective evaluation of the fabric samples by the evaluators on the descriptive word pair "soft - not soft" showed similar tendency with the KES B determination of the fabric samples.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.17 no.6
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• pp.28-43
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• 2013

Recent trends toward the collaborations among various sectors of academia and research areas have brought interests and significances in new activities especially in the fashion and textile areas. One of the collaboration examples is the recent research projects on 3D virtual clothing systems based on the 3D CAD software. The 3D virtual clothing systems provide simulated apparels with high degrees of fidelity in terms of color, texture, and structural details. However, since real fabrics exhibit strong nonlinearity, anisotropy, viscoelasticity, and hysteresis, the 3D virtual clothing systems need fine tuning parameters for the simulation process. In this study, characteristics of silk fabrics, which are woven by using degummed silk and raw silk yarns, are being analyzed and compared. Anisotropic properties may be measured as warp and filling direction properties separately in woven fabrics, such as warp tensile stress or filling bending rigidity. Hysteretic properties may be measured as bending hysteresis or shear hysteresis by using KES measurements. These data provide deformation-force relationships of the fabric specimen. Three-dimensional effects obtained when using these characteristic fabrics are also analyzed. The methods to control the three-dimensional appearance of the sewn fabric specimens when utilizing a programmable microprocessor-based motor device, as prepared in this study, are presented. Based on the physical and mechanical properties measured when using the KES equipment, the property parameters are being into a 3-dimensional virtual digital clothing system, in order to generate a virtual clothing product based on the measured silk fabric properties.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.5
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• pp.31-40
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to investigate the change of the physical properties, bending and luster properties, which are related to the touch and appearance of silk fabrics modified by the degumming process. The silk has long been known as one of the most elegant and soft textile materials. The raw silk yarn, or cocoon bave, spun from the spinneret, is rather stiff due to the sericin covering the two fibroins together. The sericin can be removed during a degumming process. The removal of the sericin would result in remarkable change in the physical properties of the raw silk fabrics, including luster of the fabrics, which process parameters could possibly be utilized to adequately control the silk fabric properties. The KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) is a testing methodology that has been used with considerable success for predicting the hand and tailorability of apparel fabrics. This study uses one of the KES, bending tester, to measure the bending properties of the silk fabrics degummed for specified period to change the physical/mechanical properties of the fabric. The KES bending measurement revealed that the bending rigidity decreased for both the warp and weft direction of the silk fabrics with the increase of the degumming period. It has been shown in this study that the some of the hand-related physical properties, including the bending rigidity, drapability, and luster, could be modified with the change in the degumming period.