• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권8호
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• pp.883-891
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• 2003

In this study, a change of hand of fabrics dyed with persimmon juice was measured using Kawabata Evaluation System. Using various cotton fabrics, linen fabric and silk fabric used frequently for persimmon juice dyeing, we examined the changes of physical properties and hand according to persimmon juice dyeing and washing. The dynamic characteristics of hand were measured tensile, shear, bending, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight. Linearity of load-extention and tensile resilience were increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Tensile energy decreased in cotton fabric 2(gauze), cotton fabric 3(muslin) and linen fabric. Shear stiffness and hysteresis of shear increased in most of fabrics. Bending rigidity of the bending property and hysteresis of bending, linearity of compression of the compression property, compression energy and compression resilience increased in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. Thickness and weight increased much in all kinds of fabrics after dyeing. In the primary hand value, stiffness and anti-drape stiffness increased in all kind of fabrics after dyeing. The fullness and softness, crispness, scrooping feeling and flexibility with soft feeling decreased. As the stiffness after persimmons dyeing increased, it was suitable for clothes material of summer.

• International Journal of Human Ecology
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.105-115
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• 2012

This research investigated the influences of structural characteristics such as fabrics, mechanical properties, and subjective sensory images on the off-line and on-line preferences to women's spring/summer suits fabrics to extract the most effective factor towards preference as well as analyze the preferential off-line and on-line differences to predict the exact texture image on-line. Objective evaluations were done for the measurement of the mechanical properties of fabrics using Kawabata's Evaluation System and subjective evaluations were done with 109 female subjects who value the off-line and on-line sensory image of suit fabrics. For statistical analysis, factor analysis, cluster analysis, t-test, ANOVA, and regression were used. The results were as follows. The preference scores on-line were generally higher than those off-line. For the structural characteristics of fabrics, differences of thickness were observed according to preference clusters, and the preference increased as thickness was lowered off-line and on-line. For mechanical properties, WC influenced off-line and on-line preferences. Fabrics with low compression energy were preferred; however, the effect of SMD was observed off-line only. In subjective sensory images, the 'smoothness' image influenced off-line and on-line preferences the most. All sensory images influenced the off-line preferences; however, the effects of 'flexibility' and 'weight' were not shown on-line.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.660-666
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• 2004

This article describes the change of hand value of chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH) as crosslinkins agent, 2% aqueous acetic acid as a solvent of chitosan and ECH, and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide as a mercerizing agent and crosslinking catalyst. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution, and finally wash and dry. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were investigated using Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. Tensile energy and tensile strain were decreased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. Tensile resilience, compression resilience bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, shear stiffness, shear hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compression linearity, compressional energy, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of chitosan. On the other hand, bending rigidity, bending hysteresis, coefficient of friction, geometrical roughness, compressional resilience, and thickness were increased with the increase of the concentration of crosslinking agent(epichlorohydrin).

• 감성과학
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• 제3권1호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2000

한·미 문화간 비교를 통하여 직물의 소리와 촉감이 주관적 감각에 미치는 영향을 고찰하고자 한국인과 미국인 각각 30명을 대상으로 의미분별척도에 의하여 서로 다른 8개 직물 소리의 주관적 감각(부드러움, 시끄러움, 유쾌함, 날카로움, 맑음, 거친, 높음)과 촉감의 주관적 감각 (딱딱함, 매끄러움, 성김, 시원함, 유연함, 까실거림, 무게, 두께)을 측정하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터로 LPT(level pressure of total sound)와 Δf (frequency differences)를 계산하고, KES (Kawabata Evaluation System)을 이용하여 직물의 역학적 성질을 측정하였다. 직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’의 점수가 높고 ‘시끄러움’과 ‘날카로움’, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮은 직물들이 주관적으로 유쾌하게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다. 직물에 따른 소리의 시끄러움과 날카로움, 높음에 대한 주관적 감각은 한·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였으나, 한국인은 미국인보다 모직물의 소리에 대하여 ‘부드러움’과 ‘유쾌함’의 점수가 높고, ‘거침’의 점수가 낮았으며, ‘맑음’에 대한 직물별 점수가 다양하였다. 직물의 촉감은 직물에 따른 차이가 더 다양하게 나타났다. ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’의 직물 별 감각은 한 ·미 간에 유사한 경향을 보였는데, 한국인은 대체로 미국인보다 ‘성금’과 ‘까실거림’을 낮게, ‘시원함’을 높게 평가하였다. 직물 소리의 파라미터인 LPT와 ΔL이 양국인의 소리 감각에 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 감각은 주로 LPT가, 미국인의 감각은 LPT와 ΔL이 함께 영향을 미치는 회귀식이 성립하였다. 촉감에서 ‘딱딱함’과 ‘매끄러움’, ‘유연함’, ‘까실거림’에 한·미 모두 표면 거칠기가 영향을 미쳤는데, 한국인의 촉감에 대한 회귀식이 더 많이 성립하였고 R2가 높게 나타났다.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.169-173
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• 2005

Low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment was applied to wool fabric with the use of a non-polymerizing gas, namely oxygen. After the LTP treatment, the fabric properties including low-stress mechanical properties, air permeability and thermal properties, were evaluated. The low-stress mechanical properties were evaluated by means of Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F) revealing that the tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties were altered after the LTP treatment. The changes in these properties are believed to be related closely to the inter-fiber and inter-yam frictional force induced by the LTP. The decrease in the air permeability of the LTP-treated wool fabric was found to be probably due to the plasma action effect on increasing in the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP-treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the above findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yams and fibers. This study suggested that the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제44권10호
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• pp.57-66
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• 2006

The purpose of this study was to evaluate the relationship between the tactile sensation and mechanical properties of towel. Six kinds of towels with different surface structure and fiber composition were used for this study. To evaluate the tactility of towel, 36 adjectives were collected and then 11 adjectives were selected. The subjective evaluation was examined by one to one comparative method and by blind test for estimating the only the sense of touch of the towels. Kawabata's Evaluation system for fabrics was used to measure the mechanical properties which are tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface, weight, and thickness of six towels. The results are as follows; First, surface structure of the towels had an effect on estimation the sense of touch. Pile surface was evaluated thicker, compacter, more cushiony, and more elastic. Waffle surface was evaluated knottier and rougher, and microfiber suede surface was evaluated softer and denser. Second, the highest value of the mechanical properties measured were G, 2HG, B, and SMD of 100% cotton 100% pile, WC, T, and W of elban loop pile, WT, 2HB, and LC of 100% cotton cut pile, RT and MIU of microfiber suede, and RC of microfiber waffle. Third, the 11 adjectives were correlated with more than one mechanical property. 'Knotty' and 'rough' were correlated with MMD and SMD, 'soft' were correlated with B, 2HB, MMD, and SMD. 'Thick', 'heavy', 'compact', and 'elastic' were correlated with WC, T, and W, 'cushiony' was correlated with WC. 'Stiff' was correlated with B and 2HB, 'dry out' was correlated with RT, WC, MIU, and T. 'Dense' was correlated with RT and SMD.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제23권5호
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• pp.667-673
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• 2021

The purpose of this study was to obtain drape information and objective texture of fabrics easily and quickly by using a constructed fabric database. For the construction of the fabric database, 287 woven fabrics were examined by using the CLO fabric kit, KES-FB system, and drape test system. The k-means cluster analysis method was used to classify the fabrics into 7 grades. After correlation analysis of the fabric properties for each experiment, similar properties of the CLO fabric kit and KES-FB system were chosen, which were then designed to extract similar fabrics from the database. It was confirmed that inferring the drape information and objective hand feeling of fabrics was to some extent possible by extracting similar fabrics from the database. In this study, the primary hand and total hand value(THV) of KES-FB system, which was constructed by Kawabata and other experiments, were used to quantify the objective hand feeling, because they are the most widely used. However, these standards can be changed over time; in order to be applied within the clothing industry, these standards may have to be changed to some extent. Moreover, it is notable that although objective hand feeling cannot be expressed in the 3D virtual costume program, it can be easily derived from the constructed database. Additionally, it is expected that the existing 3D virtual costume program will express the costumes more realistically by improving these results.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제31권1호
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• pp.68-76
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate change of mechanical and physical properties, shape behavior and hand value in weft knit when rib stitch and milan stitch are combined. The knit stitches used in this study are plain stitch, half milan rib stitch, milan rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ half milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch. We analyzed physical and mechanical properties(tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight) of the knit stitches and calculated their primary hand value and total hand value through translational formulas using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). The results are as follows; In evaluation of mechanical properties and hand values of knit stitches, plain stitch had the highest flexibility and the lowest T.H.V. as women's winter knit wear. Since $2{\times}1$ rib stitch had too high elongation in one direction, although it had the highest T.H.V, it needs to be careful when plain stitch and $2{\times}1$ rib stitch are applied for women's winter knit wear. Since Milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch had high T.H.V. similarly, it is considered that they are suitable for women's winter knit wear. Specially, when Milan stitch is combined with $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, its shape stability and fullness are contained and flexibility is added on it. Therefore, $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch can be also applied for women's winter knit wear.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제17권4호
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• pp.613-625
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• 2015

This research was conducted to provide basic data to improve expressivity required for virtual clothing to replace actual clothing. For the experiment, 6 materials were selected and 12(2 kinds of length) actual flared skirts were made. At the same time, simulations were carried out on OptiTex Runway 12.0 for 36(12 kinds of skirts $\times$ KES, FTU, KES weight/10) kinds of virtual flared skirts, which were applied with the measured property values (thickness, weight, bending, shear, friction, and stretch). Also, the study compared and analyzed the wearing images, silhouette overlapping images, and skirt length measurements of the actual and virtual skirts put on a dummy. As a result, the actual skirts showed clear distinction for each material. In contrast, virtual 1 and 2 expressed fabric 3 in the most similar way, but could not recreate the uniform, soft, and natural flare shape of the actual skirts in general. Virtual 3 formed natural flares as those of the actual skirts, and expressed fabric 1, 5, and 6 in a similar way. However, virtual 3 had too much volume and barely showed any distinction for each material. All of virtual 1, 2, and 3 expressed different flare shapes on the front and back sides of the skirt similarly to the actual skirts, and had a good visual expression for the color and texture of the materials. However, they could not effectively express the elasticity and fabric sagging in the bias direction.

• 감성과학
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• 제12권1호
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• pp.77-86
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• 2009

자동차는 첨단공업 기술이 고도로 집적되어 있는 인간-기계 시스템(man machine system)이다. 자동차에 대한 새로운 감성요구를 실현하기 위해서는 인체와 오랜 시간 접촉해 있는 시트 표피재의 분석이 반드시 필요하다. 본 연구에서는 자동차 시트 표피재의 역학적 특성과 감성을 고려한 고급감을 예측하여 고감성 내장 표피재 개발에 기여하고자 한다. 감성용어는 Softness(유연한), Elasticity(탱글탱글한), Volume(풍성한), Stickiness (끈끈한)를 설정하였으며, 이와 대응하는 표피재의 역학적 특성 치를 측정하였다. 피혁의 특성평가에 의한 결과로 resilience, bending moment, thickness와 friction 값을 얻을 수 있었으며, 이러한 역학적 특성 치를 softness, elasticity, volume, stickiness 값으로 변화하기 위해 fuzzy logic을 사용하였다. 또한 Fuzzy logic의 결과인 Softness, Elasticity, Volume, Stickiness 값으로 피혁의 고급감을 예측하기 위한 신경망 모델(Neural network)을 구성하였다. 즉, 자동차 표피재 중 피혁의 4가지 물리량으로 인간의 감성인 표피재의 고급감을 예측하여 고감성 자동차 시트 표피재의 개발을 위한 예측 모델의 가능성을 평가하였다.