• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.764-773
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to analyze the difference in body image and apparel fashion orientation according to gender and somatotype. And the paths for the apparel fashion orientation affected by these variables were also analyzed. The data for this research were collected from questionnaires of 210 male and 180 female college students. The results of this research are as follows: It was found that subjective somatotypes of male and female college students were different from objective somatotypes and that female college students showed high degree of somatotype distortion compared to male college students. The body image was composed of three factors, interest in appearance', concern about weight' and satisfaction in appearance'. Female college students were highly interested in appearance and weight with exhibiting high interest in appearance for the persons who have a thin somatotype and in weight for the persons who have an obesity somatotype, respectively. Female college students were more closely associated with fashion than male students. The higher interest in appearance, concern about weight and satisfaction in appearance persons have, the higher degree of leadership in fashion opinion, fashion innovativeness and confidence in apparel the persons showed. Thus, female students, thin somatotypical persons or standard somatotypical persons were highly interested in appearance. The persons who are more concerned about appearance showed the high degree of leadership in fashion opinion, fashion innovativeness and confidence in apparel. And the persons who are satisfied with their appearance exhibited high leadership in fashion opinion and confidence in apparel.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.821-829
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• 2010

The men's costume of eighteenth century showed feminine image of elegant decoration through the influence of social feminine atmosphere. As years go, heading towards the end of the eighteenth century, most of men's wear were simplified except vest, which had gorgeous decorations showing feminity. Therefore, men's vest of eighteenth was regarded as good item to apply to modern women's wear. The men's vest design of eighteenth century were divided into three types due to the passage of time, they showed the difference in the length, detail and trimming. Cutting lines in the modern fashion are used to give comfort and show the three-dimensional body silhouette. Also, cutting lines, as a decoration element, can define the costume's image and characteristics. Therefore, by using cutting lines, we can represent historical costume as modern costume and men's wear as women's wear. I made five women's costumes applying design characteristics of the men's vest of the eighteenth century. These five women's costumes have decorative aspect of men's vest of eighteenth century and simple aspect of men's costume. I applied dart manipulation in several different ways to make various cutting lines for women's costume. These cutting lines were emphasized by matching various colors and patterns of fabrics. I made small buttons and cords of these various fabrics. I sewed fabric buttons on five costumes for the purpose of function and decoration like buttons of the men's vest of eighteenth century. I applied fabric cords to decorate five costumes in various way. We should further study how to express important characteristics of historical costumes as modern costume in many ways.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.745-754
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• 2010

This study is to find return factors when modern consumers purchase goods from an internet shopping mall and then to analyze the characteristics of complaints act and information search behavior. Subjects of research are 245 men and women, who have experience with more than one return in internet fashion shopping mall, in their twenties. The data were analyzed by using Factor analysis, Cronbach's analysis, one-way ANOVA, Duncan test as a post identification, Pearson's correlation analysis and multiple regression analysis. The results of this study are that male and female consumers in their 20s are mainly aware of the return factors: impulse buying, product status, deliver service, service after purchase, hype and comfortableness. And complains behavior often conduct public action, private action, nonaction. Information search behaviors for risk reduction when they purchase are product comparison, oral information search, neutral marketing information search, and service information search. The return factor from the internet fashion shopping had the greatest impact on public action and deliver services factor was a big complaint. In addition, impulse buying & Hype affect private action and non-action is influenced by impulse purchase. The consumer types by the return factors in internet fashion shopping mall are classified into the return group by deliver service, the return group by complex factors, and the return group by product status. Furthermore, there are significant differences in complaining behavior among these groups. In the information search behavior for reduction of risk factors, the return group by complex factors did more active information search behavior than the other groups. The return group by deliver service searched oral information and the return group by product status explored the neutral marketing information.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.789-795
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to examine the appropriate surplus of clothing for a jacket bodice pattern of middle-aged obese men by using the 3D virtual twin and virtual garment simulation system. The results were as follows ; 1. BMI rate of middle-aged males was 28.13 which was equivalent to mild obesity, whereas WHR(W/H ratio from waist to hips) rate was near 1.00 which was highly dangerous against their obesity. In case of middle-aged obese men, the WHR was significantly higher than the entire middle-aged men's average and the section shape in which their thickness was relatively more than width. 2. As a result of appearances evaluation through virtual garment simulation, the cut-off amount of the side seam and the center back was regulated accordingly. Hereby, the final tolerance range was set up at 21.15 cm at the hips, so that the appearances became better and the bilateral distribution of the cross section and space length was formed symmetrically. Especially in case of increasing the cross amount of hems to produce a natural silhouette of the waist-to-hips parts, the ease of buttocks was judged to be moderate, but it turned out that a wavy cross section was made and the silhouette was not good. Thus it was found to be not good that the ease of the hips became excessively increased in proportion as circumference of waist and belly were increased in obesity. The use of the virtual twin made it impossible to comprehend the appearances and ease correspondent to motions. In order to evaluate wearing fitness, therefore, the system should be improved so as to change arm positions and perform various motions.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.705-714
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• 2010

This study has the purpose of classifying the types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume of modern style which are shown in relevant monthly magazines and analyzing the characteristics of the techniques. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. The types of decoration techniques applied to the Korean traditional costume are classified into single and composite types according to decorative components. In the traditional costume of the former type, a quite many of gold and silver foils and embroideries are found. While, in that of the latter type, a combination of two different decorations, gold and silver foils and embroideries, embroideries and seonchigi or embroideries and stitches is usually used. These decoration techniques are usually applied to some parts of the costume like git, kkeutdong or cuffs, somae or sleeves, jacket or jeogori, the lower hem of the skirt and between joined parts in the skirt. More notably, Korean traditional costumes for women shown in monthly magazines released during the period as mentioned above were investigated to find that a part of the women's clothes, that is, skirt was in most cases decorated with brilliant embroideries. Used together with the techniques, patterns are usually applied onto embroideries and gold or silver foils. Most of the patterns are flower in shape. The main material of the Korean traditional costume is fabrics that have brilliant patterns on the surface and are commercially available irrespective of season. Consequently, since 2010, flower motive patterns which are important in modern fashion trend will be used in embroideries, gold and silver foils. Additionally, embroideries such as seakdong, applique, drawing made with modern style will be the main stream of new HanBok style.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.774-780
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• 2010

The purpose of this study was to better assess and understand current needs and wearing sensation, including clothing behavior for early elderly women in the Korea and USA. The subjects in this study were 135 and 173 early elderly women in the Korea and USA. This research was done by a survey method and chi-square test. The major objectives of this study were as follows; First, it was found that the early elderly women of Korea utilize mostly human information as information source when purchasing clothing, whereas those of USA mostly media information. The women of Korea were found to put most emphasis in esthetic aspects of clothing, whereas those of USA in comfort. The most frequently worn clothes by the early elderly women of Korea were jumper, T-shirt and slacks, whereas jacket, sweater and slacks by those of USA. As for skirt, flare skirt was highly preferred in Korea, whereas A-line skirt in USA. Second, regarding the wearing sensation of ready-made clothing, the wearing sensation of jacket was found to be worst on the shoulder in Korea, whereas on the waist in USA. And the early elderly women of both Korea and USA had poor wearing sensations due to the length of sleeve, of trouser, of skirt and of one-piece dress. The comparison of the clothing behavior and wearing sensation of the early elderly women between Korea and USA showed a greater difference in clothing behavior than in wearing sensation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.162-172
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to examine the influences of social responsibility and culture marketing on corporate image and brand equity in the casual wear market. In addition, whether corporate image and brand equity have impact on purchase intention is investigated among high school students in a local area. Two casual brands, Polham and Tate are selected for this study. The data are collected from male and female adolescents living in a local area with convenience sampling method. A total of 402 useful data are analyzed by SPSS 14.0 program. The results of this study are as follows. First, there are significant relationships among corporate social responsibility, culture marketing, corporate image, and brand equity of two brands. Second, environmental cultural support, social contribution, and economical responsibility of CSR present positive influences on corporate image and brand equity in common between two brands. Especially environmental cultural support of fashion business is highly important to improve corporate image and brand equity. Third, cultural direction and cultural business marketing are more influential than cultural sales promotion or cultural support marketing to improve corporate image and brand equity. Fourth, corporate image does not have a direct influence on the purchase intention, but brand equity factors show significant influences on the purchase intention. In conclusion, fashion companies should commit to perform corporate social responsibility and culture marketing that are suitable to target market for the long term, since these efforts would improve corporate image and build brand equity.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.194-204
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to investigate appearance management behavior of Koreans in their 40s and 50s according to Shangri-La Syndrome'. Shangri-La Syndrome means a social phenomena which people in their 40s and 50s want to live as young as people in their 20s and 30s. The questionnaires were distributed to 500 people in their 40s and 50s living in Ulsan, Dague, and Seoul. Of 500 questionnaires, 368 of them were used in data analysis. Descriptives, frequency analysis, factor analysis, reliability analysis, correlation analysis were performed using SPSS 12.0. The degree of Shangri-La Syndrome was evaluated by a cognitive age. As a result, first, people in their 40s and 50s showed to recognize themselves about 9.1 years younger than actual ages. Second, the attitude to appearance management behavior revealed to be generally positive and the correlation between the cognitive age and the attitude to appearance management behavior was presented to be low and negative. Third, types of appearance management behavior were classified skin care and clothing, figure management, plastic surgery, hair. The smaller cognitive ages were, in other words, the larger the degree of Shangri-La Syndrome of respondents were, the more positive their opinions to the types of appearance management behavior were. Among the types of appearance management behavior, figure management was shown to be the most effective means for appearance management but, clothing the most frequent usable one. In conclusion, it was found out that the relationship between Shangri-La Syndrome and appearance management behavior was low but positive.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.263-268
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• 2011

One-step reduction/dyeing method was applied for ramie dyeing with natural indigo powder. The effect of reduction/dyeing conditions including the pH of bath, dye temperature and time, and concentration of indigo powder and reduction agent on dye uptake and color properties were investigated. Regardless of addition of alkali, the dyed fabrics appeared in the PB Munsell color range(${\lambda}_{max}$: 660 nm) and the dye uptake was much higher with no addition of sodium hydroxide. Dyeing was carried out through the use of only sodium hydrosulfite in the bath. The maximum dye uptake was obtained at 60 for 30min. Saturated dye uptake was obtained at 2 g/L of sodium hydrosulfite concentration up to 2 g/ L of indigo powder. Whereas, at higher indigo powder concentration (4 g/L), more than 3 g/L of reducing agent concentration was required for obtaining the saturated dye uptake. Color reproducibility was reliable with color difference in the range of 0.03~0.16. Regardless of color strength, fastness to rubbing was acceptable with a 3/4~4/5. Fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with low color strength were poor. Whereas, fastness to washing, dry cleaning, and light of samples with high color strength were very good.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.269-278
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• 2011

This study aims at setting up productive capacity which can be usefully utilized for work management of apparel manufacturers. So as to achieve this goal, an apparel manufacturing company which has been operated by miniline system in Seoul was selected. Standard time and man-hour were calculated to create the accurate productive capacity by observing and measuring a work flow included cutting, sewing and finishing processes. And the result is as following. The standard time for each process was presented as cutting process 47004.5s, sewing process 671050.5s and finishing process 22426.3s. And 15284.4ms was computed as total procession man-hour per day of the manufacturer which is organized of 16 people. Also, the procession man-hour for each process was revealed as cutting process 396.7ms(2.6%), sewing process 14509.3ms(94.9%) and finishing process 378.5ms(2.5%). +Surplus was found in the productivity for each process included the cutting process(outshell, lining and seam process), the sewing process(preparation and arrangement process) and the finishing process. But, additional man-hour 52436.18ms was required because the productive capacity was calculated as -surplus(-13.9%) in the sewing process(part and assembly process). Therefore, a work schedule was planned based on the previous result. However, loading can be ideal when a capacity and a load become '0'. The object company should find the way to reduce allowance(26.25%) of the sewing process through reconstruction of consciousness and improvement in functions with analyzing works of operators. Also, they need to consider an additional supplement of the personnel.