• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.660-668
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• 2012

The purpose of this study is to analyze the thermal characteristics of garments marketed for Korean males and to investigate the influence of each garment on ensemble, by measuring their insulation values(clo) using thermal manikins. The results are as follows. The total insulations(clo) of ensembles for S/S seasons are between 1.46 and 2.6 clo, with the mean of 2.12 clo. The insulation in the still air condition is 1.23 clo, which means a decrease of 42% compared to the total insulation of all the component garments. The insulation of ensembles for S/S seasons in the dynamic air condition decreased by 46.8%, compared to the still air condition. The total insulation(clo) of ensembles for F/W seasons is between 3.84 and 7.36 clo with the mean of 4.74 clo. The insulation in the still air condition is 2.26 clo, which means a decrease of 53.6% compared to the total insulation of all the component garments. The insulation of ensembles for F/W seasons in the dynamic air condition decreased by 36.2%, compared to the still air condition. As the clo value of each component garment gets higher, the insulation of ensembles gets higher. Especially, the insulation of ensembles was more influenced by outer wear than inner wear. The insulation of ensembles could be predicted by the insulation of outerwear better.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.519-531
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• 2012

This study comprehends the various expressions of Lady Gaga's fashion style based on Craig Owens's Allegory theory. This study analyzed four application elements of Borrow, Site Specificity, Accumulate of Strategy, and Hybridization in addition, it studied all aspects of the aesthetic value of Lady GaGa (an influential popular culture icon). It was classified in the external representation of the fashion style for the aesthetic value. The results are summarized as follows: First, 'Borrow' of the singers of the 80's music and fashion style present from her elders and visual homage to shock artists. It influenced her fans with a difference in viewpoint for a star's fashion that subsequently resulted in a deformation of form, playful kitsch style, and mixed gender. Second, 'Site specificity' presents an extreme make over through an intentional and grotesques fashion style to extend physical territory and defenseless. The results remove stereotypes and reveal deconstructive performances. Third, 'Accumulate of strategy' simultaneously presents voluptuous beauty, futurism, and avant-garde style. This shows the countercultural tendency through the random repetition of fashion images and layerd coordination. Finally, 'Hybridization' presents multiful fashion style through a collaboration with world-famous designers and cosmetic brands. She expressed a diverse and complex fashion style composed of an art form that combines a high-tech cyborg image. The aesthetic values of Lady Gaga' fashion style are 'ambivalence virtuality', 'Transcendental mixed gender', 'plural textuality', and 'unexpected play culture'.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권4호
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• pp.677-683
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• 2012

1-octanethiol and vinyl acetate telomers ($R_8S$-nVAc) were synthesized and hydrolyzed with sodium hydroxide subsequently, 1.2-epoxyhexane was then introduced to the telomers. In addition, we prepared cotelomers of multi-alkylated nonionic surfactants with a molecular structure of xRnMA-yVA (x; hydrophobic group, y; hydrophilic group, MA; methacrylic ester, VA; vinyl alcohol, R; and alkyl group) and cross-linked with sodium tetraborate decahydrate. Their active surface properties were investigated by several techniques such as surface tension, foaming property, and emulsification power measurements. The surface tension of $R_8S$-8.8VA decreased without the introduction of 1.2-Epoxy hexane, and the degree of emulsification and foaming abilities of $R_8S$-8.8VA increased without the introduction of 1.2-Epoxy hexane. However, the differences were insignificant. The epoxy groups were attached to a $R_8S$-8.8VA cotelomer with a limited variation of the active surface properties. The surface tension of $1.1R_6MA$-8.8VA decreased after cross-linking subsequently, the degree of emulsification and foaming abilities of $1.1R_6MA$-8.8VA increased after cross-linking. However, there was no clear difference between them. The B-O bonds were attached to a $1.1R_6MA$-8.8VA cotelomer with a limited variation of the active surface properties.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.968-976
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• 2012

This study presents a new method called the SPMP (Semi-automatic profile measuring program) to efficiently measure body shape in elderly women. SPMP can automatically measure the angle of axis (19 items), surface (17 items), lengths (14 items), heights (16 items), widths (13 items), and depth (6 items). In total these 85 items are automatically measured very quickly, accurately, and easily after manually marking an initial 36 points. The utility of SPMP was evaluated using several tests. When SPMP measuring results were compared with manual methods (using a ruler and protractor) in thirteen elderly women using a paired t-test, there was no significant difference found between them. Furthermore, when measurements from SPMP were compared with actual measurement results in selected items from seven elderly women's measurements, smaller mean differences were found than those defined by ISO 20685, with the exception of the abdominal area which moves easily with breathing. Seven independent measurements of a single elderly woman were made by seven students using SPMP, and the values of coefficient of variation were less than 5% for all but 8 items. Finally, this study analyzed the correlation of all 85 item measurements, and found that the angle from the upper chest to the neck towards the front in the axis curved forward as much as the axis angle from the thigh to the waist (r=-0.876, $^{**}p$ < 0.01) bent backwards in elderly women. This detailed analysis helps to understand age-related changes in body posture, and will be useful in future studies.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.1024-1031
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• 2012

The thermal bonding PET fabrics were produced through high temperature steaming (HTS) of low melting PET yarn as warp and composite fancy yarn containing low melting PET yarn as weft. The low melting PET yarn of sheath-core structure consisted of a regular PET in core portion and low melting PET in sheath portion. The composite fancy yarn consisted of regular PET yarn as inner part and effect part and low melting PET yarn as binding part. This study was carried out to investigate the melting behavior of thermal bonded PET fabric, the effect of HTS on the thermal bonding, mechanical properties, and dyeing properties. The melting peak of low melting PET yarn showed two melting peaks caused by sheath-core structure. Almost the entire thermal bonding of the fancy PET fabrics containing low melting PET yarn has formed at $200^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS. The tensile strength in warp and weft direction of the fancy PET fabrics slightly decreased as temperature of HTS increased. The total K/S value of the fancy PET fabrics decreased slightly to $180^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS, while increased slightly above $200^{\circ}C{\times}3min$ of HTS. The changes in the hue angle ($H^{\circ}$) of the thermal bonded fancy PET fabrics dyed with disperse dyes hardly ever happened.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.928-940
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• 2012

The present study aimed to propose the competitive strategy to fashion brand franchise stores by analyzing articles regarding success stores as published in fashion magazines. A total of 91 articles were selected from three fashion magazines and content analysis was applied to extract major factors. Four types of trading areas and eight product types were compared by the major factors. As results, six major factors composing competitive strategy were analyzed such as personal selling, management of sales forces, promotion, customer relationship management, management of store space, and relationship with headquarter. Comparing competitive factors by the types of trading area, management of sales forces and personal selling were crucial for central district and for outlets/interchange district. On the other hand, personal selling and customer relationship management were important for local district while management of store space and personal selling were critical for tenants of the large discount store/shopping mall area. Comparing by product types, personal selling was the most important factor for all product types except young casualwear whereas the second important one was management of sales forces for adult casualwear, womenbbbs wear, and others. For menbbbs wear, sales promotion was the second important one whereas management of store space was the second crucial one for underwear and childrenbbbs clothing. Based on the present study result, it is proposed that competitive strategy of individual fashion brand franchise store should be differently developed because the characteristics of trading area and product type are different and in turn, customers benefit and competition might be different.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.889-897
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• 2012

This study suggests a direction for stage-costume design by making stage costumes based on amusement, eclecticism, and the masquerade, which are the criteria for approaching stage costume designs according to characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. The conclusions of this study are as follows. First, criteria to approach stage costume design for mask theatre can be classified into amusement, eclecticism, and masquerade according to the characteristics of the mask theatre presented by P. G. Bogatyryov. Second, the stage costume of a mongrel dog showed amusement through the expression of the image of therianthropy through the combination of a fur-lined vest and wristlet, Korean traditional trousers with the paw-prints of a dog. Third, eclecticism contains diverse characteristics and escapes from being singularly defined due to the fusion of severally different heterogeneous objects. The stage costume differently used a method of wearing clothing in a different period, of choosing clothing materials, and of expressing color in every character to indicate ambiguity to which the drama points through the integration of various expression elements. Fourth, the masquerade present characters (Taembang, Daejang, and Changseok)who simultaneously play the role of fairies after having changed into a white mask and having worn Korean a traditional overcoat (Durumagi) on the original clothes; the, result is the change of the theatrical structure into another time and space inside the theatrical scene of imagination through a concealment of the original clothing.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.952-959
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• 2012

This study looks into the changes in collar patterns in tailored jackets with different numbers of buttons. The study discusses the pattern design method of tailored colors in 4 different styles, such as the effect of the number of buttons of tailored jackets on collar width and length, lapel width and length, and angle of lapel and overall balance in design. Through the first dress experiment, patterns were adjusted and corrected. The second dress experiment was conducted with the modified experimental clothes. The results of comparison and analysis are as follows. The 1 button tailored jacket was most preferred for its beautiful expression and overall balance of upper color and lapel when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The second most preferred one was the 2 button tailored jacket with lapel width of 8 cm, and the 3 button jacket showed relatively good balance when its lapel width was 7.5 cm. The 4 button tailored jacket showed a bad balance in collar and button. Also, its overall silhouette was disappointing and thus was less preferred than others. For smaller number of buttons, the angle of lapel's break line increased, thus displaying a more refined and slim silhouette. On the other hand, the angle of lapel's break line decreased for greater number of buttons, thus displaying a dull and fat image. As a result, the jacket with many buttons was less preferred.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제14권6호
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• pp.960-967
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• 2012

The study aims to design the corset type long-line bra patterns that compensate part-somatotype of women in their 20s. The corset type long-line research bra patterns consist of 4 sections: cup, front bodice, back bodice, and shoulder strap. The full cup is made up of 2 lower part pieces and 1 upper part piece, and the shoulder strap is 16 millimeters wide. The method to design the patterns is shown in figure 4 and figure 5. The result of wearing test showed that, while the wearing testers recognized some significant differences in 19 out of 26 criteria, the examiners did in 17 out of 23. The criteria more than 1 in an average value between research bras and commercial bras were 'appropriateness of breadth of shoulder strap', 'appropriateness of pressure of armhole circumference'. 'appropriateness of pressure of waist', 'suitability of side line and body curve', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of chest circumference', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of upper part line', 'appropriateness of positional pressure of bottom part line', and 'satisfaction of whole silhouette of side and back'. The research and commercial bras were evaluated 4.23 and 3.44 respectively by the testers, and 4.25 and 3.40 by the examiners. The former ones were scored higher by both parties. They were also appreciated higher in general silhouettes of fitting and appearance.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• 제12권6호
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• pp.830-836
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• 2010

The purpose of this research was to investigate the effects of skin pressure by wearing all-in-one on the rhythm of body temperature such as skin and rectal temperature which play a crucial role in the nocturnal rhythm. Five healthy female were participated in the study as subjects. The experimental clothing was an all-in-one, one of the foundation, which is worn for shaping the body. The total experimental periods were 5 days. On the 1st day, subjects did not wear the all-in-one (None), and they wore it for about 12 hours per day from 2nd to 5th day (Wearing1~4). Skin and rectal temperature were measured during the entire experimental days to figure out the rhythm of body temperature during sleep. When subjects wore the all-in-one, the gradients of the forearm and calf skin temperature at the sleep onset were significantly smaller than "None". It indicated that the rise of extremities' skin temperature was low on the "Wearing1~4". The decline of rectal temperature in "Wearing 1~4" was smaller than "None". Therefore, the skin pressure by all-in-one may cause the temperature of extremities' skin and rectum to change, resulting the fluctuation of the circadian rhythm, finally it could have effects on the rhythm of sleep.