• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.5
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• pp.553-559
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• 2005

Hand characteristics related with structural properties of fabrics have something to do with mechanical properties of fabric. In this study, the mechanical properties and hand characteristics have been analyzed according to fabric structural parameters such as the weave structure and the linear density of weft of cotton fabric. Mechanical properties have been used by KES-FB system which measures hand characteristics and mechanical properties of fabric. Linear density of weft, tensile, bending, and shear properties are decreasing with increasing weft linear density, and there is no considerable effects on compression and surface properties. In case of formability with weft linear density, B/W, 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, $\sqrt[3]{B/W}$, $\sqrt{2HB/W}$, W/T except MMD/SMD, WC/T, and WC/W have been effected. There is a high correlation between the crimp, tightness, hand, formability and mechanical properties specially tensile linearity, bending, shear, and compression properties. The weft crimp influences the bending rigidity, shear properties, and the tightness which have effects on the tensile linearity, bending, shear, compression properties, hand, and formability.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1362-1376
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the perceptions of textures and sensible images of consumers and present basic data for textile designing by analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements and preferences. A total of 12 kinds of knit fabrics were prepared and investigated in terms of the differences in the subjective, mechanical properties and objective hand measurements according to the structural properties of knit fabrics. The data were analyzed by t-test. The subjective hand attributes of wool knits through factor analysis are categorized into 6 factors. In particular, the 'active/comfort' factor is a meaningful result that reflects the unique characteristics of knit fabrics compared to woven fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective hand measurements have a greater effect on textures than on sensible images; in addition, the structural properties, 'gauge' was the most important factor to influence the subjective evaluation.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.25 no.3
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• pp.206-214
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• 2013

There has been an increasing demand for high performance and energy-saving of blind. In order to develop the eco-friendly blind textiles, heat treatment process has been utilized for LM(Low Melting) polyester fabrics and the changes of the physical properties of the treated fabrics were examined according to temperature of heat treatment. Morphology, surface reflectance, contact angle, luster, thermal property and mechanical property of heat treated LM polyester fabrics were investigated. As results, morphology analysis of thermal treated fabrics confirmed that degree of fusion of LM polyester yarns improved with increase of temperature. Surface reflectance of thermal treated fabrics decreased with increase of temperature. Luster and contact angle of a water droplet on thermal treated fabrics increased slightly with increase of temperature. The mechanical properties of the fabrics by KES-FB system were found to be temperature-dependent and especially, bending and shear properties among them were highly related to temperature.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.353-359
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• 2018

In this study, fused deposition modellig(FDM) 3D printing technology has been applied directly to polyester voil fabric to produce 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics. A stereolithograpy(STL) file with a lace type 3D modelling under the various thickness were prepared and transformed into a g-code file using a g-code generator. The extrusion conditions for FDM 3D printing were controlled by 50mm/s of nozzle speed, $235^{\circ}C$ of nozzle temperature, $40^{\circ}C$ of heating bed temperature. 3D printed lace/voil composite fabriscs manufactured by 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments were obtained. To evaluate the mechanical properties and washability of the fabricated 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric, KES-FB system test, washing fastness test and dry cleaning resistance test were conducted. As 3D printing thickness increased, KOSHI, NUMERI, and FUKURAMI of 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric increased. From the results of the primary hand value test, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments. As a result of the washability and dry cleaning resistance test of the 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics, all samples were graded 4-5.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.561-570
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• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.8
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.61-61
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• 2011

지구 온난화로 인해 환경파괴, 병원성 세균 감염 등에 의한 각종 질병과 아토피 피부염 등 수없이 많은 요소들에서 우리 몸을 보호하기 위하여 친환경 소재의 용품들이 각광 받고 있다. 이중에서도 키토산과 칼슘알지네이트는 천연재료로써 이미 다른 분야에서 응용되어 사용되고 있으며, 이 두 가지 천연재료를 두 층으로 면섬유에 코팅시킨 CCAC섬유를 제조하였다. CCAC섬유와 키토산이 코팅된 면섬유, 칼슘알지네이트가 코팅된 면섬유, 미처리 면섬유의 총 4가지 섬유에 체액, 증류수, 생리식염수의 각각의 조건에서 흡습량, 흡습시간을 측정하여 비교하고, 수분율과 함수율을 측정하고, 접촉각을 Contact angle system OCA20을 이용하여 측정하였다. CCAC섬유의 키토산 부착 함량을 알아보기 위하여 정량적인 방법으로 add-on율을 이용하여 확인하고, 정성적인 방법으로 원소분석기(Elemental Analyzer, FLASH 1112)를 이용하여 측정하였다. 칼슘알지네이트의 함량 분석은 EDS(EX-250, HORIBA, Japan)를 이용하여 측정하고, 직물의 표면과 단면의 형태는 주사전자현미경(S-4100, Hitachi Co., Japan)으로 ${\times}100$, ${\times}1000$ 배율로 측정하여 단면과 표면 상태를 확인하고, 물리적인 특성은 KES-FB system 을 통하여 확인 하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.620-629
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• 2013

This study examines the rustling sound characteristics of electrospun nanofiber web laminates according to layer structures. This study assesses mechanical properties and frictional sounds (such as SPL); in addition, Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters (such as Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), Roughness (Z), and Fluctuation strength (Z)) were calculated using the Sound Quality Program (ver.3.2, B&K, Denmark). The result determined how to control these characteristics and minimize rustling sounds. A total of 3 specimens' frictional sound (generated at 0.63 m/s) was recorded using a Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics (Korea Patent No. 10-2008-0105524) and SPLs were analyzed with a Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured with a KES-FB system. The SPL value of the sound spectrum showed 6.84~58.47dB at 0~17,500Hz. The SPL value was 61.2dB for the 2-layer PU nanofiber web laminates layered on densely woven PET(C1) and was the highest at 65.1dB for the 3-layer PU nanofiber web laminates (C3). Based on SPSS 18.0, it was shown that there is a correlation between mechanical properties and psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile properties (LT), weight (T), and bending properties (2HB) showed a high correlation with psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile linearity (LT) with Loudness (Z) showed a negative correlation coefficient; however, weight (T) with Sharpness (Z) and Roughness (Z), and bending hysteresis (2HB) with Roughness (Z) indicated positive correlation coefficients, respectively.