• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.8
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• pp.1315-1322
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• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.3
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• pp.280-287
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• 1999

The aims of this research were to study on the relationship between the mechanical properties and the deformation behavior of weft-knitted fabrics as a function of knit structure and knit density. Eighteen weft-knitted fabrics were produced with six different knit structures ($1{\times}1$ rib, half-cardigan rib, half-milano rib, interlock, single-pique, and crossmiss interlock) and three different knit densities (loose, medium, tight). The mechanical properties of these samples were measured using the KES-F system. The 2HBIW increased as knit density was raised. The increase was greater for the double knit fabrics in all samples. Half-milano rib and crossmiss interlock samples showed the lowest 2HG/G values. The double knits were smaller than those of single knits indicate a higher degree of surface smoothness. The ratio of compression energy to weight per unit area of the double knits had lower values than the single knits.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.1 no.2
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• pp.160-165
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• 1999

The thermal properies of the pure linen fabrics available in the market and linen blended woven fabrics were measured at the moisture content of 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% using KES-F7 system (Thermo Iabo II type). The experimental properties were statistically analyzed by the rate of water absorbent. The main results were as follows; There is a positive correlation between the thermal insulation value (TIV) and thickness of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Whereas an negative correlation exists between the TIV and cover factor. There is a high positive correlation among the thermal conductivity (k), thickness and weight of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exist between the k and air' permeability (Ap). There is a high positive correlation between the feeling of warmth/coldness and bulk density of pure linen and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exists between the feeling of warmth/coldness and porosity. There is a negative correlation between TIV and $q_{max}$ of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics. The higher the rate of water absorbent, the lower the TIV. This means that TIV decreases by water absorption. As for the thermal property by rate of water absorbent $q_{max}$ and k increase by water absorption and reach max-value at 60% rate of water absorbent. The TIV decreases by water absorption and has +value at 0% rate of water absorbent, whereas it has -value with a feeling of coldness at 20%, 40%. and 60% rate of water absorbent.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.31 no.1 s.160
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• pp.68-76
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to investigate change of mechanical and physical properties, shape behavior and hand value in weft knit when rib stitch and milan stitch are combined. The knit stitches used in this study are plain stitch, half milan rib stitch, milan rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, $2{\times}1$ half milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch. We analyzed physical and mechanical properties(tensile, bending, shear, compression, surface properties, thickness and weight) of the knit stitches and calculated their primary hand value and total hand value through translational formulas using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System). The results are as follows; In evaluation of mechanical properties and hand values of knit stitches, plain stitch had the highest flexibility and the lowest T.H.V. as women's winter knit wear. Since $2{\times}1$ rib stitch had too high elongation in one direction, although it had the highest T.H.V, it needs to be careful when plain stitch and $2{\times}1$ rib stitch are applied for women's winter knit wear. Since Milan rib stitch and $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch had high T.H.V. similarly, it is considered that they are suitable for women's winter knit wear. Specially, when Milan stitch is combined with $2{\times}1$ rib stitch, its shape stability and fullness are contained and flexibility is added on it. Therefore, $2{\times}1$ milan rib stitch can be also applied for women's winter knit wear.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.14 no.6
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• pp.39-52
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• 2010

Interests in creating three-dimensionally designed fabric materials are growing rapidly in the sectors of the fashionable textiles with the creativity, new functions, and aesthetics. A number of finishing methods have been developed and proposed to add or create new functions and designs for silk fabrics. Due to the strong hydrogen bonds between the molecules of silk fibroins, the thermal treatment methods used in thermoplastic fiber processing, which can easily deform the synthetic filament fabrics to endow three-dimensional appearance to the fabrics, are not applicable to the silk fabric treatment. In order to modify the fine structure of silk fiber, neutral salt solution treatment methods have been suggested. In this study, the effect of the calcium nitrate solution on the physical and mechanical properties of silk fabrics was investigated by using the KES(Kawabata Evaluation System) equipment. Based on these findings, relationships between parameters, for example, the thickness and the compressional energy, the thickness and the compressional linearity, and the air permeability and the pore area statistical analysis were investigated. The relationships between the process parameters such as treatment temperature/time and the resulting fabric property parameters were also analyzed by using several SAS procedures.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.77-86
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• 2009

A comfort evaluation of car seat clothing has been proposed for high comforts interior seat clothing. Car seat covers have received wide spread attention due to their man-machine interface working. And then, it will be necessary for measurements on delicate basic mechanical-properties, which closely relate with human touch feeling of its materials. In this research, we have utilized $KES-FB^{(R)}$(Kawabata Evaluation System) series, $^ST300{(R)}$ analogue softness tester and friction tester for measurement a physical properties. In order to consider both kansei and physical properties on interior seat covers, we firstly have established subjective words of judgement for the seat covers. Secondly, related them to the objective measurement of physical properties. Each kansei-language has clearly defined as 'Softness', 'Elasticity', 'Volume' and 'Stickiness' for the adjectives of leather car seat covers. These technical terms have correlated to physical properties in other words, h (mm), bending moment ($gf^*$cm/cm), To-Tm (mm) and ${\mu}$. At this time, fuzzy logic has utilized to predict the value of kansei language through physical values. On the basis of this result, finally it is possible to predict quality index of car seat covers using neural networks technique. In short, we develop a quality evaluation system of car seat clothing combining four physical quantities with kansei engineering.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.15 no.2
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• pp.201-208
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• 2012

The objectives of this study were to investigate the psychoacoustic properties of PTFE(Poly tetra Fluoroethylene) laminated vapor permeable water repellent fabrics which are frequently used for sportswear, to examine the relationship among fabrics' basic characteristics, mechanical properties and the psychoacoustic properties, and finally to propose the predicting model to minimize the psychoacoustic fabric sound. A total of 8 specimens' frictional sound were recorded and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters such as loudness(Z), sharpness(Z), roughness(Z), and fluctuation strength(Z) were calculated using the Sound Quality Program. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system. Loudness(Z) of specimen D-1 was the highest, which means the rustling sound of the specimen D-1 was the most noisy. Statistically significant difference among film type was observed only in loudness(Z) for fabric sound. Based on ANOVA and post-hoc test, specimens were classified into less loud PTFE film group (groupI) and loud PTFE film group (groupII). Loudness(Z) was higher when staple yarn was used compared when filament yarn was used. According to the correlation between the mechanical properties of fabrics and loudness(Z) in groupI, the shear properties, compression properties and weight showed positive correlation with loudness(Z). According to the regression equation predicting loudness(Z) of groupI, the layer variable was chosen. In groupII, variables explaining the loudness(Z) were yarn types and shear hysteresis(2HG5).

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2006

This study was carried out to investigate sound sensation of Korean traditional silk fabrics with similar sound pressure levels (SPL) and to identify secondary physical factors excluding SPL which determine sound sensation of the fabrics. Sounds of the silk fabrics tended to be perceived differently from one another as for some of sensation such as clearness ant roughness. They were felt more strongly in aspects of loudness, roughness, and highness than of softness, sharpness, clearness, and pleasantness. Subjective clearness, roughness, and highness were significantly correlated with some of sound parameters including roughness(z), ${\Delta}L,\;and\;{\Delta}f$. Especially, both of clearness and roughness which were varied among the fabrics were found as determined by ${\Delta}L$. This result means that ${\Delta}L$ as well as roughness(z) and ${\Delta}f$ could be utilized secondary to SPL in order to satisfy some of human sensibility for sound from traditional silk fabrics without variation of physical loudness.