• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.20 no.1
• /
• pp.157-169
• /
• 1996

Polyester yarns and fabrics containing three levels of $TiO_2$ delusterant were hydrolyzed with NaOH and examined for physical and morphological changes. The mechanical propertis and hand values of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. Also, the relationship between the morphology and the mechanical property of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics was analyzed. The results are as follows: 1. At an initial stage of alkaline treatment, the concentration of $TiO_2$ did not affect the weight loss of the treated yarns. But by increasing treatment time, the effect of the concentration of $TiO_2$ on the weight loss of the fiber became more pronounced. The weight loss were increased in the following order; fulldull> semidull> clear 2. The effect of hydrolysis on yarn tensile strength seems to be more related to the size of the pits on the fibers rather than the number of pits. 3. Axially oriented pits occurred along the hydroyzed, delustered fiber surfaces, while such pitting was absent on hydrolyzed fiber containing no $TiO_2$. The number of voids across the surface of a fiber increased with an increase in the amount of TiOa incorporated into the fibers. The size of the voids depended on the treatment time of hydrolysis rather than the concentration of TiOa. 4. The mechanical properties and hand values of polyester fabrics were changed by alkaline treatment but were identical regardless of the concentration of TiOa. While the mechanical properties of polyester fabrics depended on the structural change of the fibers and the yarns within the fabrics as the fiber diameter became progressively smaller rather than the size and number of pits.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.35 no.8
• /
• pp.968-981
• /
• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structure of Intarsia and Jacquard knit on mechanical properties of knit fabrics to suggest data for knit design. Intarsia and 7 types of Color Jacquard (Floating Jacquard, Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard, Ladder's back Jacquard, Blister Jacquard, and Transfer Jacquard) were used. The samples with a gauge of 14 were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. The Objective Hand was measured by KES-FB system and HV and THV were calculated by the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-winter respectively. The results showed that Intarsia and Floating Jacquard are thin, flexible and light, Bird's eye Jacquard is slick, flat and slim, Tubular Jacquard is stiff and undrapable, Ladder's back Jacquard is difficult in shearing deformation and relatively bulky, Blister Jacquard is thickest and transfer jacquard is uneven in surface contour. The selection of proper structure is important for the knit apparel production since the thickness and weight of knit determine the amount of yarn needed and consequently the production cost. The hands of Ladder's back Jacquard and Tubular Jacquard are superior to those of other structures. Intarsia and Floating Jacquard which are thin, light and flexible seem to be good structures for designs showing a body silhouette whereas, Bird's eye Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard and Blister Jacquard (which are thick, heavy, and stiff) are suitable for a boxy silhouette.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
• /
• v.11 no.2
• /
• pp.9-18
• /
• 1999

In order to establish fundamental data for the betterment of Polyester microfiber fabric handle, a study by using fixed warp of ITY yarn samples with P/F, DTY, and ITY weft yarns was performed. For this purpose the samples of total 27 kinds were prepared. That is, each sample yarn was twisted in three ways and for each twisted yarn the fabric structures were modified in three ways, plain, twill, and satin. The examination was done by focusing on the point of the change of handles and the characteristics of the mechanical properties of the samples with the change of yarn and the fabric structure. The handles and the mechanical properties were examined with the KES-F system suggested by Kawabata. The results were as follows : 1. WT and MIU increased with increasing the twist. By comparing WT and MIU by yarn, DTY was higher than P/F. It appeared that twill and satin were higher than plain. 2. The bending rigidity change in DTY with increasing the twist was not significant, however in P/F it appeared apparently decreased with increasing the tlvist. Also, it appeared that when using P/F as weft the bending rigidity was higher than when using DTY and the twill structure appeared higher than the satin structure. 3. In shear force the increasing rates of plain and the twill were higher than satin. When DTY and P/F were used as weft, the shear force was higher in ITY and DTY than in P/F case. 4. Koshi appeared higher in the order of plain, twill and satin. When DTY and P/F were used as the weft Koshi increased with increasing the twist in plain, however in twill and satin it appeared to decrease. In hand value ITY(=7.5) appea.ed to be highe. than DTY and P/F(=6.5). 5. In all cases Shinayakasa decreased with increasing the twist. The hand values observed that satin was =4, twill was =3, and plain was =1.5. 6. Fukurami showed no significant change with increasing the twist in DTY, however in P/F and ITY it decreased.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
• /
• v.8 no.2
• /
• pp.117-128
• /
• 2005

The purpose of this study was to clarify the effects of constituent characteristics and the mechanical properties by KES-FB system on the visual texture images and preference of men's suit fabrics. Twenty different kinds of black fabrics, which were used mainly for the spring and summer men's suits, were selected and the subjective evaluation of the visual texture images was tested. Sixty experts in department of clothing and apparel industries participated in the subjective evaluation. Factor analysis showed visual texture images were classified into 4 categories : 'bulkiness', $'extensibility{\cdot}rapability'$, 'flexibility' and 'smoothness'. All of relationships were established between the mechanical properties and the visual texture images except the relation between 'flexibility' and bending properties. The significant factors affecting preference were 'smoothness', compression energy(WC), fabric count and 'flexibility', As the fabrics had higher value for 'smoothness' and 'flexibility' , and lower ones for compression energy and fabric count, they tended to be more preferred.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.15 no.2
• /
• pp.309-315
• /
• 2013

This study examines the difference of surface properties according to napping characteristic of artificial suedes, measuring surface structure observation, the contact/non-contact method roughness, warm-cool feeling of touch, and subjective hand evaluation. Surface and cross-section observations showed a discernible difference in fineness, curl, length, mount of napping, and covering power of base fabric. The surface properties of artificial suede evaluated by KES-FB4 showed that the shorter napping length the more smooth surface and the roughness increased reciprocally with friction resistance and surface contour when the nap length reaches a high level. The surface roughness measuring system applied a laser displacement sensor by a non-contact method to assess napping characteristic and the base fabric and napping height. Surface roughness decreased when napping was uniformly covered with base fabric; however, the surface roughness increased specifically with the uneven covering power of the base fabric. For qmax of the suedes, those that had short and smaller amounts of napping increased; however, the napping of length and amount at some stage generated a low qmax value. The warm sensation in all suedes were strongly perceived, but the cool sensation of the perception was lower in the subjective evaluation. Smoothness and softness were perceived when the suede has a long and large amount napping; however, smoothness and hardness were perceived when the suede was short and with the uneven covering power.

• Journal of Korea Technical Association of The Pulp and Paper Industry
• /
• v.47 no.5
• /
• pp.80-84
• /
• 2015

Softness is considered one of the most important attributes of hygiene paper such as tissue and towel. Being subjective in nature, however, softness attribute has been generally believed to be impossible to evaluate using objective methods. Hallmark in his pioneering work proposed that tissue subjective softness should be mainly consisted of the bulk softness component and surface softness component. The bulk softness component can be determined by tensile stiffness; the surface softness component by surface tester. The surface friction turns out far more important than the surface roughness in determining the surface softness component. It cannot be too much emphasized that both results of the tensile stiffness and the surface friction should depend on measuring conditions such as an instrument used, sample sizes (e.g., basis weight, length, and width) and operating conditions of the instrument (e.g., gauge length, cross-head speed, size of stylus, and its scanning speed). This indicates that a direct comparison of the test results would be impossible or misleading unless they have been tested under the identical conditions. This may explain why the standard objective test method for tissue softness has not been available at present.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.8 no.5
• /
• pp.115-124
• /
• 2004

PTT(polytrimethylene terephthalate) is a thermoplastic that can be melt-spun into fibers and has extensive applications in carpets, textiles and apparel, engineering thermoplastics, nonwovens, and films or sheets. This polymer combines the good properties of nylon and polyester. Compared with other synthetic fibers such as nylon and acrylic, the PTT fibers feel softer, dye easier with vibrant colors, stretch and recover better. Moreover, the PTT fibers for carpets resist most stainings, clean better, and dry faster. The PTT was first patented in 1941, but it was not until the 1990's, when Shell Chemicals developed the practical method of producing PDO, the raw material for PTT. Many studies have been done including the retention of carpet texture using an image analysis technique, or compressional resilience of the carpet for long term use. In this study, PTT and nylon BCF carpets were compared in terms of the compressional properties including the resilience, using one of the KES system for repetitive measurements. The compression resilience(RC) values of the PTT BCF carpets far exceed those of nylon 6 BCF carpets. The RC values of the PTT BCF carpet(cut) specimens are $42{\sim}45%$ for 5 successive compression deformations, while those of the nylon BCF carpet specimens(cut) are $26{\sim}28%$. There is also a similar trend in the RC values for the other type of carpet which is the loop type. This resilience is one of the important factors of carpet usage evaluation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
• /
• v.12 no.5
• /
• pp.676-682
• /
• 2010

Superior hydrophilic properties will allow varieties of polyester(PET) fiber materials, fabrics and industrial materials a broader scope of use. The purpose of this study was to investigate the effect of water-absorbent softener treatment on the end-use properties and the hand of polyester knitted fabrics. Two different fabrics were knitted for the summer ladies' outwear; PET jersey and PET mesh. Variables were softner treatment and stitch type(jersey and mesh). Mechanical properties of the fabric samples were measured by KES-FB system. From these, primary hand values(HV) were evaluated by the conversion equation (KW-403-KTU) and the total hand value(T.H.V.) was calculated according to the KN-304 Summer. Both water-absorbent softner treatment and stitch types affected mechanical properties and hand values of PET fabrics. Mesh were thicker than single jersey stitch. As they became thicker, tensile, shear, and compressional energy increased. It appeared that coefficient of friction of mesh stitch was larger than that of single jersey stitch. The coefficient of friction and the mean deviation of surface roughness were decreased by softener treatment. After softner treatment KOSHI and SHARI of the both PET jersey and PET mesh decreased. However, FUKURAMI values of PET jersey increased and that of PET mesh decreased. The T.H.V. of the treated PET jersey was lower than that of the untreated one, while the T.H.V. of the treated PET mesh was higher than that of the untreated one. Overall T.H.V. of the single jersey was better than that of the mesh before and after softner treatment.

• Journal of Korean Society on Water Environment
• /
• v.22 no.5
• /
• pp.784-795
• /
• 2006

The purpose of this study was to assess biological river water quality by using epilithic diatoms at 40 selected sites in Geum, Youngsan, and Seomjin River systems. The sampling and analyses were performed during three seasons including January, April and June in 2005. Various water quality parameters also were analyzed. We attempted to classify the water quality condition by epilithic diatom indices (DAIpo and TDI) with the results of corresponding analyses of various chemical water quality parameters. A five class system was delivered to describe the water quality condition ranged from "very good" to "very poor." We also proposed a way of classifying water quality condition by combining two diatom indices of DAIpo and TDI. Our results showed that biomass of epilithic diatoms varied not only seasonally but spatially; it was not likely that winter diatoms represent average water quality condition, due to high concentration of nutrients. Water quality status assessed by diatom indices was generally worse than that assessed by BOD, indicating that BOD standard likely underestimates the biological condition of the water body. Importantly, nutrient-based diatom index (TDI) generally overestimated organic matter-based index (DAIpo) at most study sites, indicating that diatoms in studied rivers were likely more affected by nutrients than organic matter. Thus, management strategy to improve river water quality in Korea is suggested to emphasize more on the nutrients than organic matters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.25 no.2
• /
• pp.237-248
• /
• 2001

The purpose of this study was to compare the comfort sensation depending on four different kinds of denim blue jeans: cotton, cotton/tencel, tencel, cotton/pp. The objective and subjective experiments were conducted to measure the comfort of blue jeans. To investigate the objective comfort, physical properties related to thermal insulation, moisture properties and hand were measured. For subjective comfort measurement, 5 healthy female college students were taken as subjects. The outcomes of the experiments are as follows: The higher the air permeability and bulk density of the denim, the lower the thermal insulation, the thicker the denim, the higher the thermal insulation. Tencel blending denim showed the higher bulk density, the lower air contents, and consequently the lower thermal insulation than the other denims. Tencel showed the highest moisture regain, and cotton/tencel blend showed the highest water vapor permeability. Tencel denim had relatively better flexibility, shape stability and elastic recovery than the other denims. The total hand values of the denims by KES-FB system were not significantly different. Cotton and cotton/pp denims raised the subjects body temperature after excercise more than tencel or cotton/tencel denims. Average skin temperature was found to have a correlation with micro climate temperature and micro climate humidity. The correlation coefficients were 0.749 and 0.767, respectively. However, average skin temperatures were not significantly different among the materials. Pulse rate was found to be the highest when wearing cotton/pp and the lowest in case of cotton/tencel denim. The energy was consumed in order of cotton>cotton/pp>tencel>cotton/tencel. There was no significant difference in preference before excercise, but, after the excercise, the order of preference changed as the following; cotton/tencel>tencel>cotton/pp>cotton.