• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.18 no.1
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• pp.49-58
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• 2015

This paper investigated far-infrared emission characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage knitted fabrics for emotional garment. For this purpose, ZrC imbedded heat storage PET was spun with high viscosity PET imbedded ZrC powder on the core part and low viscosity PET on the sheath part by conjugated spinning method. Ingredient analysis and far-infrared emission characteristics assessment of spun filament were carried out by EDS and FT-IR spectrometer. Two kinds of knitted fabrics were made using texturized ZrC imbedded PET for measuring thermal characteristics of ZrC imbedded heat storage PET. Zr peak was certified by EDS measurement and it was confirmed that content of Zr was 19.29%. Far-infrared analysis revealed that emission power at the range of wavelength, $5{\sim}20{\mu}m$ was $3.65{\times}10^2W/m^2$, and emissivity was 0.906. Heat storage analysis by KES-F7 system revealed that $Q_{max}$ of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was lower than that of regular PET one and warmth keepability rate was higher than that of regular one, which means that ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric has heat storage property. Thermal conductivity of ZrC imbedded PET knitted fabric was higher than that of regular PET one which was caused by high thermal conductivity of Zr itself. Hand property of ZrC imbedded knitted fabric was not inferior compared to regular PET knitted fabric, which preferably was found to be dependent on knit structure and surface property.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.8 no.1
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• pp.23-31
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• 2005

Mechanical properties and hand evaluation of wool/acrylic(W/A) blend knits were conducted before and after repeated washing to get the optimum W/A blending ratio, which could help achieve the optimum mechanical and hand properties of the knits. The five test fabrics using the yarns with different W/A blending ratios($\%$), 100/0, 70/30, 50/50, 30/70, 0/100, were knitted. The fabrics were washed by a rotating drum type washing machine. Then, objective mechanical and hand properties were evaluated by KES-FB, Kawabata evalution system for fabric. The results are as follows: there was no change in the hand value of the knitted fabric with the W/A-blended yarn caused by the change in the blending ratio before washing. After washing, however, the increase of acrylic's blending rate caused the bending property to decrease proportionally, while the friction coefficient of the surface property increased. Furthermore, the study showed that W/A 50/50 possesses the most superior tensile property and shearing property, which could attain the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in hand value were derived in all the samples. After washing, however, the increase in acrylic's blending rate caused a proportional decrease in KOSHI and an increase in FUKURAMI. In addition, W/A 50/50 gained the biggest NUMERI value, again corresponding to the optimum blending ratio. Similar results in total hand value were derived in all the samples before washing. After washing, though, all the total hand values decreased, and, as the wool fabric's blending rate increased, the total hand values proportionally decreased further.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1039-1047
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• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.23 no.6
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• pp.800-808
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• 1999

The demand for PU coated synthetic leather is increasing as a high fashion material. But it has some faults of water vapor permeability surface tacky property and static electricity. Therefore the purpose of this study was the produce of PU coated fabric added collagen with hydrophilic property and soft touch. In the PU coated fabric water vapor permeability water vaper absorption and frictional electronic voltage were investigated surface bending and compression properties were also examined by the use of KES-FB System. The followings were the results of this study. 1. There was no Cr in the collagen so that Cr was not treated in the collagen. 2. The surface and cross sectional layer of PU coated fabric with collagen were highly developed by micro porous structure. 3. The water vapor permeability of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 4. The water vapor absorption of PU coated fabric was increased as collagen concentration increased. 5. The frictional electronic voltage of PU coated fabric was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration. Especially it effectively decreased by the use of only 5% collagen concentration. 6,. The bending and compression properties of PU coated fabric were increased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that it became stiff. 7. The Value of MIU, SMD was decreased in accordance with the increase of collagen concentration so that the PU coated fabric became smooth.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.36 no.3
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• pp.360-370
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• 2012

This study investigates the interaction effects of mechanical property-based clusters and colorimetric tones on the subjective touch and color sensation of fabrics when sight and touch were simultaneously provided to humans. Each of six different silk fabrics was colored by digital textile printing to have three tones (pale, vivid, and grayish) and its mechanical properties were measured by a Kawabata Evaluation System (KES). Touch and color sensation were identified to be primarily influenced by mechanical property-based clusters and tones, respectively. In touch, 'smooth', 'warm', 'heavy', and 'soft' were found to be affected by interactive effects of mechanical property-based clusters and colorimetric tone so that the pale tone tended to make differences smaller among the clusters for the touch sensation, while the grayish tone seemed to contribute to larger differences of 'heavy'. However, an interaction effect was not found in the color sensation with touch even though the color sensation was also influenced by mechanical property-based clusters.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.445-451
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• 2005

Up to the present, fabric finishing methods have been mainly employed for the application of chitosan. However, the coated chitosan acid salt is prone to be detached from the fabric during the laundering process. In order to improve the wash fastness, chitosan treated fabrics are being subjected to thermal curing. In this study, chemical crosslinking reaction by epichlorohydrin was introduced to improve the problem of the thermal curing. An improvement of the wash fastness is expected since the coated chitosan component on the fabric become insoluble by the introduction of the crosslinking. The demerit of the single chitosan treatment (inferior handle due to the excessive stiffness, etc.) was supplemented by the application of chitosan-polyurethane mixture solution. The mixture ratios were adjusted to 1 : 0, 1 : 0.25, 1 : 0.5, 1 : 1, and 1 : 2 for the chitosan/PU mixture. Physical and mechanical properties of the finished fabric specimens were measured using the Kawabata Evaluation System(KES), and hand values were calculated accordingly based on the translational formulas.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.439-444
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• 2005

This article describes the change in the hand value of chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics. The chitosan-crosslinked cotton fabrics were manufactured by mercerizing process using epichlorohydrin(ECH), 2% aqueous acetic acid and 20% aqueous sodium hydroxide. It proposed that the crosslinking and mercerizing were performed with the mixture of four different molecular weight chitosan and ECH in a single step. Cotton fabrics were dipped in the mixed solution of chitosan and ECH, picked up by mangle roller, pre-dried at $130^{\circ}C$, mercerized and crosslinked in NaOH solution and finally washed and dried. Mechanical and physical properties of the chitosan crosslinked fabric were measured on concentration and molecular weight by Kawabata Evaluation System(KES) and other instruments. As the concentration of chitosan solution increased, LT, WT, B, 2HB were increased. WT, B, 2HB, MIU, SMD, $T_0$, $T_m$ were decreased when chitosan was depolymerized. On the other hand, RT was increased when chitosan was depolymerized.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.3
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• pp.472-483
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyse the effects of knit samples' mechanical properties on changes of skirt length of knit flared skirt, and to compare it to the knitting method of a seamless knitted flare skirt. So, I compared the appearance and 3-dimensional shape of a seamless knitted flare skirt with those of a fully cut knit flared skirt. For this study, 18 kinds of cut and sew or seamless knitted test garment were made. The data analysis methods used in this study were descriptive statistics, one-way ANOVA, correlation analysis, and regression analysis. The results are as follows: The result of the evaluation of knit samples' mechanical properties by the KES-FB system showed that elongation decreased as gauge increased and course direction was greatest among grain directions. The length change after wearing the knitted flare skirts appeared wholly equal to the seamless knitted, compared with the cut and sew. The change was biggest at $180^{\circ}$, 7G of the cut and sew. In grain direction, bias cut showed more than 1.2cm of length change. As the weight and thickness increased, the length changes become larger. The regression analysis indicated that the greatest contributive variables on the length changes were elongation, weight, and thickness.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.240-248
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• 2017

This study compares general jacquard fabrics and jacquard fabrics with optical fiber on mechanical properties, sensibility and preference evaluation of fabric for the blind. The analysis also assesses the effect of optical fiber in the evaluation and identifies those best suited for consumers. The mechanical properties of jacquard fabrics were measured by the KES-FB system. Sensibility and the preference of the jacquard fabric for the blind were rated on tactile sensation by women experts in their 20's and 30's. It was found that the optical fiber in jacquard fabric affected the change of mechanical properties as well as sensibility and preference. Jacquard fabric with optical fiber were softer and more transformable, while the fabrics had lower recover property by shear force and compression as well as more violent unevenness. Jacquard fabrics were also classified into three hand factors of surface property, resilience and weightiness. There were significant differences on surface property perceptions and weightiness, hand and blind preferences by optical fiber. Jacquard fabrics that contained optical fiber were not preferred by the blind because they were perceived to be uneven and heavy. Those, that were smooth and light, were preferred for jacquard fabric; in addition, fabrics preferred by the blind had good compression.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.17 no.5
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• pp.854-861
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• 2015

This study evaluates the objective and subjective hand as well as the preference for hand and outdoor jackets on laminated waterproof breathable fabrics with different constituent characteristics to identify those best suited for consumer needs. Mechanical properties and objective hands were measured by the KES-FB system. The subjective hand and the preference of laminated waterproof breathable fabric for outdoor jackets were rated by the 20's and 30's women experts with tactile and visual senses that utilized a questionnaire with a seven-point semantic differential scale; subsequently, the flexibility and compressive elasticity of laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were low. However, light and thin waterproof breathable fabrics with a smooth surface had high scores in smoothness, fullness & softness and total hand value. In addition, laminated waterproof breathable fabrics were classified into three hand factors: flexibility, density, and surface properties. There were significant differences on flexibility and surface property perceptions, hand and out-door jackets preferences according to the characteristics of waterproof breathable fabrics. The hand preference of the laminated waterproof breathable fabric improved with decreasing 2HB and increasing EM. However, EM showed positive effect for outdoor jacket preferences. Those that were flexible and smooth were preferred for outdoor jackets.