• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.42 no.4
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• pp.561-570
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• 2018

This study defined the changes of mechanical properties of silk fabric according to bias angles and investigated the influence of bias angles and fabric characteristics on hand value. For the experiments, 4 types of commercial silk plain weave fabrics were chosen. All fabrics had the same density, but different yarn characteristics. Fabric samples were cut into 12 different bias angles between $0^{\circ}$ and $165^{\circ}$ with $15^{\circ}$ gap and measured for tensile, shear, bending, surface properties by the KES-FB system. As a result, most mechanical parameters showed an asymmetry shape with $90^{\circ}$. The most flexible and easiest angles are $45^{\circ}$, $135^{\circ}$. Furthermore, the bias angles of silk fabrics were classified into three clusters with mechanical properties such as WT, 2HG, 2HG5, B, and SMD. The parameters according to fabric samples showed significant differences at WT, RT, B, 2HB, and MIU. It showed bigger effects as yarn fineness; in addition, twists were higher except RT. The results of hand value indicated that Koshi and Hari were highest with a bias angle of $75^{\circ}$; however, Shinayakasa was highest at bias angle of $45^{\circ}$. Finally, Shari was lowest at $45^{\circ}$.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.10 no.2
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• pp.125-138
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• 2008

For physical and hand property evaluation of fabrics, the knitted fabrics from 11 types of machines knitting fancy yarns, boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), tamtam (M5), tubular (M6), fur 1 (M7), bead (M8), fur 2 (M9), fur 3 (M10), and ladder (M11) yarns, were prepared with 7-10 G plain stitch. Washing test and pilling test had also been carried out. For hand properties by objective sensibility evaluation, 17 items of sir mechanical properties using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System) had been measured. Then hand values of knitted fabrics were calculated with a calculation formula, namely KN-402-KT. Finally the total hand values were obtained through KN-301-WINTER. As a result of physical properties and objective evaluation for machines knitting fancy fabrics, most of them shrank in the direction of wale and course after the washing test, in which their shrinkage rate had a maximum of 3.5%. Therefore, the washing test indicated that the shrinkage ratio of knitted fabrics had a minor change. The results of the pilling test are mostly 4-5th grade, and all of the machines knitting fancy fabrics showed good results in the pilling resistance. In hand properties and objective sensibility evaluation, twisted fancy yarns, such as boucle (M1), knot (M2), snarl (M3), and slub (M4), were superior to bonding rigidity (B) and shear rigidity (G). The surface property between course and wale differs in all samples and course direction is tougher than wale direction. FUKURAMI (fullness and softness) of all samples have high values, besides NUMERI (smoothness) of tamtam (M5) and boucle (M1), which were rather good. Most samples except fur 1 (M7) had low KOSHI (stiffness) value. The total hand value (THV) of twisted yarns was low. This study proves that manufacturers, who plan knitting yarn products and knit fashion, can apply these data to develop machines knitting yarns and knits that fit the consumers' demands.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.620-629
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• 2013

This study examines the rustling sound characteristics of electrospun nanofiber web laminates according to layer structures. This study assesses mechanical properties and frictional sounds (such as SPL); in addition, Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters (such as Loudness (Z), Sharpness (Z), Roughness (Z), and Fluctuation strength (Z)) were calculated using the Sound Quality Program (ver.3.2, B&K, Denmark). The result determined how to control these characteristics and minimize rustling sounds. A total of 3 specimens' frictional sound (generated at 0.63 m/s) was recorded using a Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics (Korea Patent No. 10-2008-0105524) and SPLs were analyzed with a Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured with a KES-FB system. The SPL value of the sound spectrum showed 6.84~58.47dB at 0~17,500Hz. The SPL value was 61.2dB for the 2-layer PU nanofiber web laminates layered on densely woven PET(C1) and was the highest at 65.1dB for the 3-layer PU nanofiber web laminates (C3). Based on SPSS 18.0, it was shown that there is a correlation between mechanical properties and psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile properties (LT), weight (T), and bending properties (2HB) showed a high correlation with psychoacoustic characteristics. Tensile linearity (LT) with Loudness (Z) showed a negative correlation coefficient; however, weight (T) with Sharpness (Z) and Roughness (Z), and bending hysteresis (2HB) with Roughness (Z) indicated positive correlation coefficients, respectively.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.77-90
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• 2015

This study is to designed to provide foundation for knit design which can apply the thickness and flexibility of jacquard knit by analyzing and comparing mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard (normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, floating jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, transfer jacquard) widely used in knit design to achieve the results. The sample was projected by using 7 gauge and SES-122S type computer knitting machine house tooth pattern with two colors were applied to 7 types of jacquard using Acrylic/Wool(30%/70%) $2/50.5^{\prime}s{\times}4ply\;yarn$ by Shimaseiki MFG., Ltd computer knitting machine. The mechanical properties of 7 types of jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). HV(Hand Value) and THV (Total Hand Value) were calculated by using the formula of KN-402-KT and KN-301-WINTER respectively. The measurements were evaluated by 0-to-5 rating scale. As result, the floating jacquard was found to have excellent drape, making it suitable for express feminine silhouette with its most flexible and smooth touch. On the other hand, bird's eye jacquard is adequate for a suit jacket and coat regarding its excellent volume and flexibility. Blister jacquard and tubular jacquard are thick, heavy and stiff knit and both are suitable for simple box-style design. Ladder's back jacquard, however, is more appropriate for expressing the design of feminine charm and voluminous design. Based on the result of this study, it is supposed to provide basic information for development of knit industry regarding jacquard knit by designing the creative knit wear with high production efficiency.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.6
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• pp.1138-1150
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• 1996

This study was carried out to investigate the effects of dyeing on the mechanical properties, primary hand, total hand value (THV), and total appearance value (TAV) of woven fabrics. Cotton, PET, nylon, cotton/PET, and cotton/nylon woven fabrics were used as test specimens. Each of fabric was dyed under the same conditions as the fabrics for sportswear which consumers have selected as best. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB system and primary hand and THV were calculated by equation KN -201-MDY and KN-301-WINTER respectively. TAV was calculated by KN (eq. 10). The results were as follows: 1. In mechanical properties. tensile energy increased when cotton and two cotton mixture fabrics were dyed and decreased when polyester and nylon fabrics were dyed. Bending rigidity and shear rigidity decreased after all fabrics were dyed except nylon and cotton/ nylon mixture fabrics showing higher rigidities. Cotton fabrics showed higher surface roughness while other fabrics did lower values after dyeing. 2. In evaluation of primary hand and total hand , four primary hands of cotton fabrics so decreased after dyeing that THV were lowered. Numeri, Fukurami, and Sofutosa in primary hand of polyester, cotton/polyester, and cotton/nylon fabrics and Koshi and Numeri of nylon fabrics increased after dyeing and therefore THV of four fabrics were improved. 3. Cotton and polyester fabrics showed higher TAV due to their lower bending and shear rigidity, while nylon and cotton/nylon fabrics did lower values due to their higher shear rigidity. 4. It was proposed that the method of dyeing or treatment for minimizing the decrease of THV of cotton fabrics and TAV of nylon fabrics should be developed.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.20 no.3
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• pp.353-359
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• 2018

In this study, fused deposition modellig(FDM) 3D printing technology has been applied directly to polyester voil fabric to produce 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics. A stereolithograpy(STL) file with a lace type 3D modelling under the various thickness were prepared and transformed into a g-code file using a g-code generator. The extrusion conditions for FDM 3D printing were controlled by 50mm/s of nozzle speed, $235^{\circ}C$ of nozzle temperature, $40^{\circ}C$ of heating bed temperature. 3D printed lace/voil composite fabriscs manufactured by 3D printing based on FDM using a thermoplactic polyurethane(TPU) filaments were obtained. To evaluate the mechanical properties and washability of the fabricated 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric, KES-FB system test, washing fastness test and dry cleaning resistance test were conducted. As 3D printing thickness increased, KOSHI, NUMERI, and FUKURAMI of 3D printed lace/voil composite fabric increased. From the results of the primary hand value test, 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics were confirmed to be applicable to women's summer garments. As a result of the washability and dry cleaning resistance test of the 3D printed lace/voil composite fabrics, all samples were graded 4-5.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.1-15
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• 2017

The aim of this study is to plan a design that satisfies consumer needs by forecasting future properties following changes of gauge in basic Jacquard structure and to provide helpful data for a variety of knit-wear development. Four basic Jacquard knit samples (Normal Jacquard, Bird's eye Jacquard, Floating Jacquard, Tubular Jacquard) were selected and projected by using three types of gauges (7G, 12G, 14G) with an SES-122S type Computer Knitting machine of Shimaseiki MFG. Twelve different types of samples with Jacquards and gauges were tested on a flat table by measuring the course and wale in a 1cm area to calculate the gauge of samples. The mechanical properties of 12 types of Jacquard samples were measured using KES-FB (Kawabata Evaluation System for Fabric, Kata Tech Co. Ltd). As the result of comparing the number of patterns, courses and wales depending on the change of gauge of the basic Jacquard structure, it was observed that the number of patterns per specific length, course and wale has increased from 7G to 14G, a high-gauge. According to objective research regarding Jacquard structure, 7G Tubular Jacquard, which is low gauge, seems to be suitable for masculine design as it is heavy and thick, and has rigid and rough texture due to a high level of flexural strength and shear property. 14G Floating Jacquard, which is high gauge, seems to be suitable for feminine, silhouette design as it is light, thin, soft, flexible and has high drape. The result of this study provides a theoretical foundation for knit-wear development considering basic Jacquard structure and gauge-specific properties. This study can be used to provided directions for the development of knit industry.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2011.03a
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• pp.61-61
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• 2011

지구 온난화로 인해 환경파괴, 병원성 세균 감염 등에 의한 각종 질병과 아토피 피부염 등 수없이 많은 요소들에서 우리 몸을 보호하기 위하여 친환경 소재의 용품들이 각광 받고 있다. 이중에서도 키토산과 칼슘알지네이트는 천연재료로써 이미 다른 분야에서 응용되어 사용되고 있으며, 이 두 가지 천연재료를 두 층으로 면섬유에 코팅시킨 CCAC섬유를 제조하였다. CCAC섬유와 키토산이 코팅된 면섬유, 칼슘알지네이트가 코팅된 면섬유, 미처리 면섬유의 총 4가지 섬유에 체액, 증류수, 생리식염수의 각각의 조건에서 흡습량, 흡습시간을 측정하여 비교하고, 수분율과 함수율을 측정하고, 접촉각을 Contact angle system OCA20을 이용하여 측정하였다. CCAC섬유의 키토산 부착 함량을 알아보기 위하여 정량적인 방법으로 add-on율을 이용하여 확인하고, 정성적인 방법으로 원소분석기(Elemental Analyzer, FLASH 1112)를 이용하여 측정하였다. 칼슘알지네이트의 함량 분석은 EDS(EX-250, HORIBA, Japan)를 이용하여 측정하고, 직물의 표면과 단면의 형태는 주사전자현미경(S-4100, Hitachi Co., Japan)으로 ${\times}100$, ${\times}1000$ 배율로 측정하여 단면과 표면 상태를 확인하고, 물리적인 특성은 KES-FB system 을 통하여 확인 하였다.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.10 no.4
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• pp.566-571
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• 2008

Frictional sounds of 8 vapor permeable water repellent fabrics by sound generator were recorded and analyzed through FFT fast Fourier transform analysis. The frictional Sounds were quantified by calculating level pressure of total sound(LPT), the level range(${\Delta}L$) and the frequency difference(${\Delta}f$). Mechanical properties were measured by KES-FB. LPT values of specimens finished wet coating were higher than those of other kinds of finishing. ${\Delta}L$ values of specimens laminated were highest. Absolute values of ${\Delta}f$ were high in the cire finished and laminated specimens. Values for bending rigidity, shear stiffness and energy required for the compression of coated specimens increased compared with the cire finished and laminated specimens. Laminated specimens had high values of frictional coefficient and low values of surface roughness. Relationship between frictional sounds and mechanical properties analysed by use of correlation coefficients and stepwise regression. LPT showed significant correlation with elongation, tensile energy, geometrical roughness, weight and thickness. ${\Delta}L$ was highly correlated with tensile linearity, frictional coefficient, and ${\Delta}f$ with tensile linearity, weight and thickness. LPT were revealed to be explained by elongation and weight. ${\Delta}L$were predicted by tensile linearity, and ${\Delta}f$ by tensile linearity and thickness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.1
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• pp.157-169
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• 1996

Polyester yarns and fabrics containing three levels of $TiO_2$ delusterant were hydrolyzed with NaOH and examined for physical and morphological changes. The mechanical propertis and hand values of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics were measured using KES-FB system. Also, the relationship between the morphology and the mechanical property of alkaline hydrolyzed polyester fabrics was analyzed. The results are as follows: 1. At an initial stage of alkaline treatment, the concentration of $TiO_2$ did not affect the weight loss of the treated yarns. But by increasing treatment time, the effect of the concentration of $TiO_2$ on the weight loss of the fiber became more pronounced. The weight loss were increased in the following order; fulldull> semidull> clear 2. The effect of hydrolysis on yarn tensile strength seems to be more related to the size of the pits on the fibers rather than the number of pits. 3. Axially oriented pits occurred along the hydroyzed, delustered fiber surfaces, while such pitting was absent on hydrolyzed fiber containing no $TiO_2$. The number of voids across the surface of a fiber increased with an increase in the amount of TiOa incorporated into the fibers. The size of the voids depended on the treatment time of hydrolysis rather than the concentration of TiOa. 4. The mechanical properties and hand values of polyester fabrics were changed by alkaline treatment but were identical regardless of the concentration of TiOa. While the mechanical properties of polyester fabrics depended on the structural change of the fibers and the yarns within the fabrics as the fiber diameter became progressively smaller rather than the size and number of pits.