• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.26-35
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Korean domestic and foreign looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. Paper is divided by two parts. In this 1st paper, fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^\circledR$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol$-GTX^\circledR$ rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position, the relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.15 no.4
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• pp.43-50
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• 2003

N-methylmorpholine-N-oxide(NMMO) is recently hewn as a solvent dissolving cellulose to produce a new regenerated cellulosic fiber, lyocell. In this study, four kinds of cellulosic fibers (lyocell, regular cotton, treated cotton with 50% and 75% NMMO aqueous solution) was examined and compared in terms of mechanical properties and dyeability. The swelling of cotton treated with NMMO aqueous solution is higher than that of cotton treated with water. In dyeing rate, the cotton treated with NMMO was faster than regular cotton. NMMO treatment decreased the crystallinity of cotton fabrics and improved their softness and smoothness.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.63-73
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to quantify the hands of fabrics for the Korean folk clothes using both a KES-FB and an artificial neural network. In order to select the proper input parameters, we calculated the correlation using step-wise regression between mechanical properties and the hand value of fabrics. For the classification, the primary hand values and total hand value, five neural networks with three-layered structure were constructed using the error back propagation algorithm and, in order to reduce errors and to speed up learning, the momentum method was selected. From the analysis of the primary and total hands using a self-constructed artificial intelligence system, the error rates of sleekness, stiffness, silkiness, and roughness compared with the judgement of expert panels were found to be 3.3%, 3.3%, 1.6%, and 4.9%, respectively, while that of the total hand was 9.83%.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.152-156
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• 2001

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.452-459
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• 1994

Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.792-800
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• 1996

The shape retention finishing provides a fabric for easiness of no-ironing after laundering. In spite of the obvious importance of the new finishing treatment, few systematic studies have been performed on the handle of the fabrics finished by the durable press process. The purpose of this research is to investigate the relationships among the mechanical properties, durable press conditions, primary hand values and the total hand value of the fabrics finished by shape retention process. In this experiment, durable press grade of unfinished fabrics decreased below 2.5, but those of finished fabrics maintained above 4, but the mechanical properties of finished fabrics did not change significantly after laundering. In finished fabrics, D.P. value were correlated with mechanical properties, but had little effects with H.V. and T.H.V. Since the evaluation of the effect of durable press process was done with the naked eyes and standard sample, we could not know exactly change o( mechanical properties, but trace the change of mechanical properties which gave influences on the durable press effects by using KES-FB System.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.169-173
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• 2002

Fabric touch was evaluated psychophysically in order to determine the relationship between mechanical properties and subjective sensation. For subjective touch sensation, eight aspects such as hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness and thickness were evaluated using free modulus magnitude estimation (FEME) technique. KES-FB was used to measure the mechanical properties of fabrics. Woolen fabric with the highest values of WC and weight was evaluated as the coarsest, heaviest and thickest. While silk crepe do chine with the lowest LT, G, 2HG, thickness and weight was rated as smoother and more pliable than any other fabrics. And flax with the highest values of LT and SMD was evaluated as hard, cool and crisp. Fabric touch and satisfaction were predicted well from the mechanical properties, especially from SMD, by regression analysis. Satisfaction for touch increased as smoothness increased.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.13 no.4
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• pp.272-281
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• 2001

Shrink resist finishing of wool fabric was carried out with MONAMIN BTN shrink resist agent after chlorination with D.C.C.A.(dichloro isocyanuric acid). The purpose of this study is to investigate the effect of treating conditions, such as concentrations of D.C.C.A and MONAMIN BTN, pH of treating bath, dying times, curing times and temperatures, on shrink resist finishing. Mechanical properties of the treated fabric were measured by KES-FB system. The optimum chlorination of wool corresponds to 2∼3%(o.w.f.) of D.C.C.A. without rendering the damage on surface of wool fiber. Also it seems likely that the shirink resist finishing carried out at 2 ∼3%(o.w.f.) of MONAMIN BTN and pH 7∼8 of treating bath is effective in increasing a softness of hand.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.14 no.4
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• pp.641-647
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• 2012

This study investigates the sound properties of fabric frictional sound (SPL, ${\Delta}L$, ${\Delta}f$) according to the film type of PTFE laminated vapor-permeable water-repellent fabrics in order to understand the relationship between SPL and the basic properties of fabrics such as layer, yarn type, and thickness of fiber. This study accesses their mechanical properties and determines how to control them to minimize SPL. Eight PTFE laminated water-repellent fabrics, composed of four different film types (A, B, C, D) and with two different fabrics, were used as test specimens. Frictional sounds generated at 1.21m/s were recorded by using a fabric sound generator and SPLs were analyzed through Fast Fourier Transformation (FFT). The mechanical properties of fabrics were measured by KES-FB. The SPL value was lowest at 74.4dB in film type A and highest as 85.5dB in type D. Based on ANOVA and post-hoc test, specimens were classified into less Loud Group (A, B) and Loud Group (C, D). It was shown that SPL was lower when 2 layer (instead of 3 layer), filament yarn than staple, and thin fiber than thick were used. In Group I, shearing properties (G, 2HG5), geometrical roughness (SMD), compressional properties (LC, RC) and weight (W) showed high correlation with SPL however, elongation (EM) and shear stiffness (G) did with SPL in Group II.

• Journal of Sericultural and Entomological Science
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• v.29 no.2
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• pp.58-66
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• 1987

This study was investigated on the effect of degumming of cocoon shell, raw silk yarn and grey silk crepe by use of Papain, comparing with soap, soda and soap-soda. The obtained results may be summarized as follows : 1. Degumming loss, when the pretreatment was done, was completed by Papain more than by alkali. 2. Lousiness result of Papain degummed silk yarn was apt to be improved more than that of alkali degummed one. 3. As a result of tensile property test, elasticity and resilience of Papain degummed crepe were good compared to those of alkali degummed one. 4. Not only bending rigidity of Papain degummed crepe was reduced more than that of alkali degummed one but also hysteresis of bending moment was decreased in papain degummed crepe. 5. Handle of Papain degummed crepe was superior to that of alkali degummed one.