• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제22권4호
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• pp.515-522
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• 2020

This study examined the effect of the blend ratio of wool and polyester fibers, yarn and fabric structural parameters to the appearance property and the formability of worsted fabrics. The mechanical properties of twenty types of manufactured worsted and PET/wool blend fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems. Garment formability increases with the thickness and cover factor as well as increases with wool content. The correlation between KES-FB and FAST system showed a relatively high correlation with an extensibility of 0.98, bending and shear rigidity 0.71; both were higher than polyester synthetic fiber. The correlation coefficient of garment formability between KES-FB and FAST systems was 0.93 and the correlation coefficient between formability and fabric extensibility was 0.8. These results were higher than those of bending and shear rigidity. This revealed that garment formability was influenced by wool content, cover factor and fabric thickness; however, wool content and fabric thickness were the most important factors for the seam pucker. The garment formability of the worsted fabrics can be predicted by fabric mechanical properties measured from KES-FB and FAST systems.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• 제4권4호
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• pp.145-150
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• 2003

Polypropylene nonwoven fabrics were exposed to He/$O_2$ atmospheric pressure glow discharge plasma. Surface chemical analysis and contact angle measurement revealed the surface oxidation by formation of new functional groups after plasma treatment. Weight loss (%) measurement and scanning electron microscopy analysis showed a significant plasma etching effect. It was investigated in low-stress mechanical properties of the fabrics using Kawabata Evaluation System (KES-FB). The surface morphology change by plasma treatment increased surface friction due to an enhancement of fiber-to-fiber friction, resulting in change of other low-stress mechanical properties of fabric.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제4권3호
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• pp.273-283
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• 2002

In this study, the correlations of the two frictional testers have been investigated; one is the KES-FB4 system, the other is the Fabric-on-Fabric Frictional tester which was devised by authors. According to the results, the correlation between the frictional coefficients measured by the two testers has been shown highly as the load increased. But the effect of roughness of fabric surface was not dearly revealed in this study. The frictional characteristics of fabric woven from filament yarns were different with those of fabric woven from spun yarns. And, like the other materials, the effect of load on fabrics used in this experiment was related with the frictional force between two fabrics. The frictional behaviors, however, were obviously different with harder material because the frictional coefficients were not constant as the load increased.

• 감성과학
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• 제24권4호
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• pp.149-156
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• 2021

본 연구에서는 1500℃ 이상의 극한 열 환경에서 사용되는 소재인 SiC (silicon carbide) 섬유를 복합방적사로 제조한 후에 원단을 제직하고 제직된 원단의 역학적 특성을 KES-FB system으로 측정하고 측정된 역학적 특성 값으로부터 착용성능을 분석하여 방화복으로의 활용 가능성을 알아보았다. 그 결과 직물의 역학적 특성에서는 인장선형성(LT)과 인장레질리언스(RT), 전단강성(G)을 나타내는 값이 원사의 제조형태에 따라서 그 특성 값의 차이를 보였으며, 직물의 두께와 평량, 밀도 값이 전단히스테리시스(2HG)와 압축레질리언스(RC) 값에 영향을 준다는 것을 알 수 있었다. 의복착용 성능에서는 착용 시 부피감을 나타내는 두께에 대한 압축에너지의 비(WC/T) 값에서 SiC 복합방적사로 제조된 직물의 값이 가장 우수한 값을 타나내었으며, 방염성능에서는 SiC 복합방적사로 제조된 직물이 탄화길이와 잔염시간에서 KFI 성능기준을 만족하여 방화복으로서의 활용이 가능함을 확인할 수 있었다.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제30권4호
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• pp.227-236
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• 2018

As consciousness of safety becomes an important social issue, the demand for protective clothing is increasing. Conventional flame-retardant cotton working wear has low durability, and working wear with m-aramid fibers are stiff, heavy, less permeable, and expensive. In this study, recycled m-aramid and cotton have been blended to produce woven fabric of different compositions to enhance high performance and comfort to solve aforementioned problems. The fabrics were analyzed according to constituents and various structural factors. Mechanical properties were measured using KES-FB system. The measured thermal properties are TGA, $Q_{max}$, TPP and RPP. Fabric with polyurethane yarn covered by m-aramid/cotton spun yarn is observed to have good wearability. The fabric of open end spun yarn showed more stiffness than that of ring spun yarn. The sample with the high count of yarn has more smooth surface. In addition, high m-aramid content fabric is considered to have relatively high stiffness when using as clothing. In TGA the fabric with higher m-aramid content showed more stable decomposition behavior. The fabric having rough surface showed lower heat transfer properties in $Q_{max}$. The influence of the fabric thickness was important in convection and radiant heat test.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제8권5호
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• pp.585-590
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• 2006

In the variation of physical properties of adhesive fabrics, the objective of this study is to analyze fitness of fusible interlining to four sorts of fabrics for men's suit with various structural parameters. Four fusible interlinings are used for adhering to fabrics for men's suit. Mechanical properties of these 16 adhesive fabrics fused with these interlinings are measured by KES-FB system for analysing appearance and wearing properties of garments and for examining the fitness of fusible interlining to the fabrics for men's suit. The variation of bending property for adhesive fabrics are found to be higher in the order of interlining 1(Cotton30/Rayon70, plain), interlining 2(Polyester30/Rayon70, warp knit), interlining 4(Polyester, shingosen fabrics with drawing textured yarn) and interlining 3(Polyester, double dot coating interlining). The variation of adhesive effect shows the same results with bending property and shows negative relation with extensibility in weft direction per extensibility in warp direction(EM2/EM1). The variation of peel strength of adhesive fabrics, woolen fabrics in the case of face fabrics and interlining 3 in the case of interlining shows the largest value respectively.

• 한국생활과학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.275-281
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• 2006

The purpose of this study is to investigate hand and sensibility of PET treated by Ultra-Violet (UV). The 4-channel PET knit fabric was treated by a self-made UV instrument in 5cm distance with different time frames-0min, 30min, and 90min. For hand evaluation, mechanical properties were measured by the KES-FB system. The environmental condition was controlled at 29$^{\circ}C$, 75% (R.H.)-summer standard climate. Twenty female students evaluated 'roughness', 'smoothness', 'wetness', 'stiffness', 'coolness', 'touch', 'preference', and 'comfort'. The outcomes of the experiment are as follows: The surface roughness of mechanical properties showed significant differences and the value of PET irradiated by UV for 90min was highest. The order of primary hand value such as NUMERI and FUKURAMI was in a following order-Untreated > 30min treated > 90min treated. Total hand value showed that PET irradiated by UV for 90min was appropriate for using summer fabric. The results of subjective sensibility were that the untreated and 30min treated PET were recognized as similar and had a good evaluation on 'comfort', 'preference' and 'the sense of touch'. This consequence disagreed with total hand value, because it was considered that subjects' hand sensibility was dependent on the feel of smoothness.

• 감성과학
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• 제8권4호
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• pp.345-354
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• 2005

본 연구는 직물구조인자인 위사밀도와 직물의 조직을 변화시켜 시직한 면직물을 이용하여 역학특성 및 태의 변화를 KES-FB System을 이용하여 측정하였다. 그 결과 위사밀도가 증가할수록 굽힘특성 및 전단특성이 증가하는 것으로 나타났고, 위사밀도의 변화에 따른 역학특성치 중 굽힘 및 전단특성의 값은 평직이 높게 나타났으며, 인장특성, 압축특성 그리고 표면특성의 값은 조직 및 밀도에 크게 영향을 받지 않는 것으로 나타났다. 한편, 위사밀도 변화에 따른 의복착용성능 중 WC/T, MMD/SMD를 제외한 B/W 및 2HG/G, 2HB/B, 2HB/W, W/T, 그리고 WC/W는 위사밀도에 영향을 받는 것으로 나타났다. 위사방향의 직축은 굽힘특성, 전단특성, 압축회복도(RC), 표면거칠기(SMD), 태와 의복착용성능에 높은 상관을 보이는 것으로 나타났다. 그리고 Tightness는 굽힘특성, 전단특성, 압축특성 그리고 표면 마찰계수와 높은 상관을 보였고, 기본태 및 T.H.V., 의복착용성능에도 높은 상관이 있는 것으로 나타났다.

• 감성과학
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• 제7권4호
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

본 연구에서는 경사와 위사의 장력에 기인되는 감성 봉제용 직물의 마찰특성을 KES-FB 계측기를 이용하여 분석하였다. 직물의 마찰특성은 직물표면의 마찰계수, 마찰계수의 평균편차, 그리고 표면요철도를 측정하였다. 이들 표면특성치를 분석하기 위해서 75d/36f PET 필라멘트를 경사로 사용하고 100d/192f PET 필라멘트를 위사로 사용하여 5매 주자직 직물을 Omega와 Picanol 직기에서 각각 제직하고 이들을 같이 연결하여 염색가공 공정을 진행시켰다. 이들 가공된 직물의 직물표면특성은 제직시 측정된 경사와 위사의 장력특성과 함께 분석되어 졌으며 직물의 중앙부위와 양 셀베지 부분의 직물 위치에 따른 표면특성의 차이가 분석되어졌다.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권11호
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.