• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the friction coefficient(MIU), mean deviation of the friction coefficient(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by OmegaR rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol-GTXR rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment.

• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.27 no.11
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• pp.1318-1329
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to examine the effects of the structural characteristics of men's suit fabrics on the texture image and the preference, and to analyze the relationship between the preference and the practical sales ratio. In addition, the texture images and the preference of fabric and jackets made of the same fabrics were compared. As specimen, jackets for men's suit of 2002' S/S and their fabrics were collected. Questionnaires composed of 22 sensibility related and 21 fabric image related adjectives were developed. For the subjective evaluation of the texture image, both jackets and fabric samples were tested. Tests were performed with 100 female subjects in clothing department and apparel industry. For the objective evaluation, structural characteristics such as fiber contents, yarn twist, fabric count, thickness and weight were analyzed. Total Hand Value were calculated from mechanical properties determined by the KES-FB system. Factor analysis showed sensibilities were classified into 6 categories; "surface roughness", "weight", "density", "stiffness", "elasticity" and "wetness". Fabric images were classified into 4 categories; "classic", "original", "practical", and "stuffy". Depending on the method to show the specimen to the subjects, whether it is suit or fabric, statistically significant differences were observed with a number of adjectives for sensibilities and fabric images. The results of THV of KES did not agree with the preference of subjects, which suggests that we should be careful when using the KES system, which was developed for Japanese people. Price was considered to be another factor besides the texture image that influenced on purchase.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.152-156
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• 2001

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.3
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• pp.148-152
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• 2001

Cotton yarns were coated with a polymer solution to hold surface fibers to the yam body, which caused fiber-fly generation during knitting process. The physical property of the coated yarn, especially a bending rigidity was investigated in order to evaluate the performance of the coated yam during knitting. SEM images showing the surface condition of the coated yarn demonstrated that the thickness of a coating material increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results of the bending rigidity measured using KES-FB2 system showed that the bending rigidity of the coated yam increased as the concentration of the coating solution increased. The results also revealed the possibility that yarn coated with a low amount of coating material should be employed for further research of reducing fiber-fly generation during knitting process.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.21 no.6
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• pp.1041-1050
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• 1997

This study was carried out to improve the thermal insulation properties of wool and wool- like fabrics by treating the fabrics with polyethylene glycol, to evaluate the fabric hand of PEG treated wool and wool-like fabrics and to grade up the fabric hand of the treated fabrics by treating with softening agents. Wool and wool-like fabrics were treated with high molecular PEG-8,000 by PDC. The thermal release/storage properties were measured on a DSC. Hand of specimens were evaluated by KES-FB system. The results were as follows; 1. PEG-treated fabrics showed thermal storage and thermal release properties by DSC and the heat contents were generally proportional to the add-ons. 2. PEG-treated fabrics showed higher Koshi and lower Numeri and Sofutosa values due to lower tensile energy and recovery and higher bending rigidity and shear stiffness as the add- ons increased. 3. PEG-treated fabrics showed much lower bending rigidity after softening agents treatment.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society of Dyers and Finishers Conference
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• 2008.04a
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• pp.150-152
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• 2008

사회가 발달하여 감성사회로 접어들면서, 섬유산업도 새로운 감성소재를 개발하기 위한 연구를 추구하고 있다. 이러한 분야의 연구수단으로 생체모방(Biomimetics)을 활용하는 연구개발이 활발히 진행되고 있는데, 이중 미래지향적인 차세대 섬유로 Morphotex(R)를 이용한 Morpho 직물이 있다. 감성소재분야에서 '구조발색섬유'라고 불리어지는 독특한 색미를 가진 섬유소재인 Morphotex$^{(R)}$는 남미의 MORPHO 나비 날개의 구조적 발색원리를 모방하여 만든 광발색섬유로 염료와 안료를 사용하지 않는 친환경섬유이면서 고기능성과 쾌적성을 겸비한 소재로 요즘 많은 각광을 받고 있다. 본 연구에서는 구조발색 소재를 이용하여 제직한 감성의류소재 직물의 감량조건에 따른 감성특성을 비교.분석해보았다. 먼저 구조발색 소재로 제직 된 직물의 감량공정특성에 따른 구조발색 소재 직물의 인장 인열 특성을 분석하였으며 또한 KES-FB system으로 구조발색 소재 직물의 역학특성을 측정하고 측정한 역학특성으로부터 감성태를 평가해 보았다.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.14 no.1
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• pp.58-65
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• 2002

This study surveys the physical properties of Solo-spun fabrics related to the characteristics of Solo-spun yarns, which were described in previous reports. For this purposes, 6 kinds of fabrics were woven on the pilot loom. 3 kinds of Solo-spun yarns with the 3 level of twist mutiplier of Nm 1/30 and 3 kinds of conventional ring-spun yarns with the same levels of twist multipliers of the same yarn counts. The fabrics were of 2/2 twill and clear-cut finished. The physical properties were surveyed by means of KES-FB system. Solo-spun fabrics seemed to be stiffer than ring spun fabrics as showing the lower extensibility with higher tensile energy, the higher bending rigidity, and the higher shear rigidity. Solo-spun fabrics showed the lower value in surface friction coefficient and surface roughness. For fabric abrasion tests, Solo-spun fabrics showed the higher pill resistance.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.16 no.4
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• pp.26-35
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• 2004

This study surveys the tension differences between Korean domestic and foreign looms and analyses fabric mechanical properties due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. Paper is divided by two parts. In this 1st paper, fabric is designed as 5 harness satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by $Omega^\circledR$ rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol$-GTX^\circledR$ rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. Weavability is also analysed by measuring warp tension variation according to the warp position, the relationship between shed amount and the warp tension on one fixed heald frame is surveyed, and the relationship between end breaks and warp and weft tensions is also discussed.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.21 no.3
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• pp.43-48
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• 2009

This paper surveys the mechanical properties of nylon high tenacity coarse yarn and fabric for military and technical textiles. For this purpose, 6 kinds of yarns and 2 kinds of fabrics are prepared. The yarn physical properties such as yarn count, thermal shrinkages, and tensile properties are measured and discussed with the characteristics of the domestic and imported yarns. And, the physical and mechanical properties of these fabrics are also measured and discussed with the usage of these fabrics in the military and technical textiles fields. Hereafter, the differences of physical properties between domestic and foreign yarn specimens for high functional military and technical fabrics are estimated through this study.