• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.12 no.6
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• pp.61-72
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• 2008

The UV-protection effect of green-tea dyed fabrics was reported in our previous studies. The chitosan was used as a natural mordant of cellulose fiber for green tea extract because chitosan is a natural bio-polymer. The increase in the UV protection property of summer cellulose fabrics, cotton and linen, upon the repetition of chitosan mordanting and green tea dyeing was observed. However, the physical property change would be followed by this repeated wet processing of the cellulose fabric. Therefore, the physical changes of the chitosan mordanted and green tea dyed cotton and linen fabrics were evaluated by KES-FB system. Tensile, shear, bending, compression, and surface characteristics were tested upon the repetition of mordanting and dyeing treatments. Linearity of tensile force increased in the treated cotton and linen samples. Tensile energy and resilience decreased in all treated fabrics. Shear stiffness increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Shear hysteresis was increased in all cotton samples and some linen samples. In cotton, the bending rigidity in all treated cottons increased except C3G3. As the chitosan mordanting numbers increased, the bending rigidity tended to decrease. In linen, the bending rigidity and hysteresis increased in all treated samples. Compressional energy and resilience increased as the number of chitosan mordanting increased both in cotton and linen. This could be the result of the increase in thickness upon chitosan mordanting. Surface coefficient of friction increased in the treated cotton and linen in general. Surface roughness tended to increase in cotton.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.357-362
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• 2006

This study is to evaluate the objective sensibility of the commercial lining fabrics. Five kinds of the linings were collected by adding taffetas with four kinds of fibers (polyester, nylon, rayon, and acetate) to one polyester stretch fabric. The six basic mechanical and hand properties were studied by using KES-FB system (Kawabata Evaluation System). The result of measuring the mechanical properties shows that polyester has high bending rigidity (B), that polyester-stretch has a high value of linearity of load-extension curve (LT), tensile energy (WT), tensile resilience (RT), and coefficient of friction (MIU) and a low value of bending rigidity(B), shear property, and geometrical roughness (SMD). The nylon has a high value of bending rigidity (B), shear property, and compression resilience (RC). The rayon has a high value of coefficient of friction (MIU) and linearity of compression-thickness curve (LC) and a low value of shear property, and the acetate has a low value of shear property. The result of hand value shows that polyester, nylon, and acetate are a high value of KOSHI (stiffness), NUMERI (smoothness), and FUKURAM (fullness & softness), and they feel stiff and massive, that rayon has a low value of NUMERI and FUKURAMI. The total result of hand value shows that polyester taffeta and polyester stretch fabric are about the same as the best material for the lining of a woman's dress for spring and summer, and the next thing is acetate, but nylon and rayon are somewhat inferior materials. This provides a fundamental data for the comfortable clothing production of a higher value-added product through the study on the mechanical and hand properties of the lining as well as the right side of fabrics.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.4
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• pp.452-459
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• 1994

Fabric hand was assessed for 14 women's spring-fall dress fabrics based on the subjective hand evaluation scale developed in the part 1 of this study. The effects of fabric type, seam and dress style on the subjective hand evaluation of 470 Korean consumers (205 textile experts and 265 non-experts) were investigated. Mechanical properties obtained from KES-FB system were compared with the each dimension of subjective hand expression. The type of fiber and construction were considered to be important factors in affecting hand assessment of Korean consumers, however, the presence and type of seam were not considered to be important. There were certain characteristics of subjective hand attributes for each dress style. Surface properties of fabrics, even though it is not strictly mechanical properties, appeared to be the most effective dimension in the developement of new products which appeal to Korean conssumers.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.20 no.5
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• pp.792-800
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• 1996

The shape retention finishing provides a fabric for easiness of no-ironing after laundering. In spite of the obvious importance of the new finishing treatment, few systematic studies have been performed on the handle of the fabrics finished by the durable press process. The purpose of this research is to investigate the relationships among the mechanical properties, durable press conditions, primary hand values and the total hand value of the fabrics finished by shape retention process. In this experiment, durable press grade of unfinished fabrics decreased below 2.5, but those of finished fabrics maintained above 4, but the mechanical properties of finished fabrics did not change significantly after laundering. In finished fabrics, D.P. value were correlated with mechanical properties, but had little effects with H.V. and T.H.V. Since the evaluation of the effect of durable press process was done with the naked eyes and standard sample, we could not know exactly change o( mechanical properties, but trace the change of mechanical properties which gave influences on the durable press effects by using KES-FB System.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.22 no.2
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• pp.163-172
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• 2010

In order to investigate the changes in mechanical properties of sanitary nonwoven fabrics actually used as a top sheet, the fabric was treated with a mixture of chitosan and nanosilver colloidal solution in accordance with the prescribed ratio. The former is a natural polymer with excellent biocompatibility and the latter can give an additional performance while compensating the weaknesses of chitosan of deteriorating adherence efficiency. It was shown that the bending and shearing characteristics of the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics decreased, which helped to make it softer, smoother and more flexible. The shape stability and drapability of the treated fabrics improved. As KES-FB system evaluation showed that Koshi was deduced, and both Numeri and Fukurami were increased. Thereby, the chitosan/nanosilver treated fabrics were smoother to provide elasticity. In the change of hand value compared to chitosan only treatment, a better THV was shown in the fabrics treated with chitosan/nanosilver mixed solution than the fabric treated with chitosan alone.

• Korean Journal of Human Ecology
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• v.12 no.1
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• pp.63-73
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• 2003

The purpose of this study was to quantify the hands of fabrics for the Korean folk clothes using both a KES-FB and an artificial neural network. In order to select the proper input parameters, we calculated the correlation using step-wise regression between mechanical properties and the hand value of fabrics. For the classification, the primary hand values and total hand value, five neural networks with three-layered structure were constructed using the error back propagation algorithm and, in order to reduce errors and to speed up learning, the momentum method was selected. From the analysis of the primary and total hands using a self-constructed artificial intelligence system, the error rates of sleekness, stiffness, silkiness, and roughness compared with the judgement of expert panels were found to be 3.3%, 3.3%, 1.6%, and 4.9%, respectively, while that of the total hand was 9.83%.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.2 no.1
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• pp.152-156
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• 2001

Three different silicone polymer systems, such as aminofunctional, epoxyfunctional, and hydrophilic epoxyfunctional silicone polymers, were applied onto plasma pretreated wool fabric to improve the dimensional properties. The results showed that the plasma pretreatment modified the cuticle surface of the wool fiber and increased the reactivity of wool fabric toward silicone polymers. Felting shrinkage of plasma and silicone treated wool fabric was decreased with different level depending on the applied polymer system. Fabric tear strength and hand were adversely affected by plasma treatment, but these properties were favorably restored on polymer application. Therefore, it has been concluded that the combination of plasma and silicone treatments can achieve the improved dimensional stability, and better performance properties of wool fabric. The surface smoothness appearances of treated fabrics were measured using a new evaluation system, which showed good correspondence with the results of KES-FB4 surface tester.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.3 no.4
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• pp.169-173
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• 2002

Fabric touch was evaluated psychophysically in order to determine the relationship between mechanical properties and subjective sensation. For subjective touch sensation, eight aspects such as hardness, smoothness, coarseness, coolness, pliability, crispness, heaviness and thickness were evaluated using free modulus magnitude estimation (FEME) technique. KES-FB was used to measure the mechanical properties of fabrics. Woolen fabric with the highest values of WC and weight was evaluated as the coarsest, heaviest and thickest. While silk crepe do chine with the lowest LT, G, 2HG, thickness and weight was rated as smoother and more pliable than any other fabrics. And flax with the highest values of LT and SMD was evaluated as hard, cool and crisp. Fabric touch and satisfaction were predicted well from the mechanical properties, especially from SMD, by regression analysis. Satisfaction for touch increased as smoothness increased.

• Journal of Conservation Science
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• v.35 no.1
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• pp.1-10
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• 2019

This study provides a comprehensive evaluation of general characteristics of sized silk fabrics for the painting purpose. Two particular types of silk fabrics used for painting background were compared: a recreation of historical material and a mass produced material of present day. The sizing process made the surface characteristics of the silk fabrics more suitable for painting. The dyeing properties of the fabrics were related to the surface area of the fabrics, and had no significant effect on their mechanical properties. The antibacterial activity of the tannin-based natural dyestuffs were maintained after the sizing. The performance assessment by the KES-FB system showed that the fabrics are more prone to deteriorate after the sizing because the glue layer receives the most of the physical stresses.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.2
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• pp.240-248
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• 2017

This study compares general jacquard fabrics and jacquard fabrics with optical fiber on mechanical properties, sensibility and preference evaluation of fabric for the blind. The analysis also assesses the effect of optical fiber in the evaluation and identifies those best suited for consumers. The mechanical properties of jacquard fabrics were measured by the KES-FB system. Sensibility and the preference of the jacquard fabric for the blind were rated on tactile sensation by women experts in their 20's and 30's. It was found that the optical fiber in jacquard fabric affected the change of mechanical properties as well as sensibility and preference. Jacquard fabric with optical fiber were softer and more transformable, while the fabrics had lower recover property by shear force and compression as well as more violent unevenness. Jacquard fabrics were also classified into three hand factors of surface property, resilience and weightiness. There were significant differences on surface property perceptions and weightiness, hand and blind preferences by optical fiber. Jacquard fabrics that contained optical fiber were not preferred by the blind because they were perceived to be uneven and heavy. Those, that were smooth and light, were preferred for jacquard fabric; in addition, fabrics preferred by the blind had good compression.