• 한국의류학회지
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• 제20권6호
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• pp.975-982
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• 1996

This study was conducted to examine the fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properites in denim fabrics for slacks during repeated shear and tensile deformation by analysing the change in the basic dynamic properties of fabrics on the basic of experiments to obtain the basic data necessary to measure their fatigue. In addition, this study was carried out by allowing these denim fabrics at market to go through the repeated deformation under such different loads as 500 gf/cm2 and 1000 gf/cm2 by using a simulated fatigue tester, by calculating both dynamic properties and hand value (HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and then by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows: 1 The fatigue phenomenon of dynamic properties was remarkably shown by the repeated shear and tensile deformation, while the increase of hysterical plastic substances was also remarkable in these shearing and bending properties. 2. The elasticity values of tensile, bending and compression properties, such as, B and G were reduced: whereas RT and RC values increased. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value also showed that those fabrics became soft in relation with the change of all dynamic properties, and that their performance was also change to flexible hand value. 4. TRhe degree of fatigue was also shown by the loads given to the repeated deformation. It was shown that the fatigue was higher for the tensile load of 1000 gf/cm3 than did the standard load of 500 gf/cm3 It is necessary, therefore, to consider the load in accordance with their usage when examining the fatigue phenomenon with respect to the dynamic properties of clothing materials. 5. The loads were nearly not influenced by the change in the general hand value tended to show a little of increase with the increase of fatigue, Based on those results, it seems that the fatigue phenomonon is related to the loads given to the repeated deformation.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제36권8호
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• pp.828-836
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• 2012

This study provided the data for the planning of knit apparel by analyzing structural effects of intarsia and jacquard knit on mechanical properties, subjective hand measurements, and preference. Intarsia and 7 types of color jacquard (floating jacquard, normal jacquard, bird's eye jacquard, tubular jacquard, ladder's back jacquard, blister jacquard, and transfer jacquard) were used. The samples (with a gauge of 14) were knitted using 100% wool 2/48's yarn by a Shima Seiki SIG computer knitting machine. Mechanical properties and hand values were measured by a KES-FB system. Subjective hand and favorable images were surveyed based on women in their 20s and 30s. The data were analyzed by a factor analysis, ANOVA and correlation analysis using SPSS 12.0. The subjective hand of intarsia and jacquard knits was categorized into 'thermofeeling', 'weight/flexibility', and 'durability'. The results of the favorable image survey for F/W outer knitwear showed that tubular jacquard was most favorable; however, the transfer jacquard was least favorable. Among the three factors that explain the subjective hand, thermofeeling had a strong influence on the favorable image of consumers. Bird's eye jacquard and tubular jacquard turned out to be most suitable for suits, intarsia and floating jacquard were suitable for cardigans and sweaters, ladder's back jacquard was suitable for hats or mufflers, and transfer jacquard was suitable for home fashion rather than garments.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제13권1호
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• pp.79-87
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• 1989

In the part 1 and 2, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer and fall & winter fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes were measured by KES-F system. The experimental results are statistically analyzed in the aspects of the mechanical properties, their effects on the hand values, formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior. The correlation in the hand values are analyzed, too. Furthermore, there mechanical properties are discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows: 1. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes have box-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity and shear elasticity. 2. The core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are inferior to silk fabrics, superior to polyester fabrics in formation. 3. A drapability and wrinkle recovery of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes formation for weared clothes are inferior to polyester fabrics, superior to silk fabrics. 4. A primary factor of mechanical properties contribute to the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes are same as the Korean women's winter fabrics, except for flexibility with soft feeling. 5. As for the hand values of core-spun yarn woven fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are superior to those of polyester fabrics. And also, flexibility with soft feeling, scrooping feeling of core-spun yarn woven fabrics have greater values as compared with silk fabrics for Korean folk clothes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제22권2호
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• pp.257-266
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• 1998

This study was conducted to examine the changes of the mechanical properties of the position in jean slacks during the wear, previously used for the wearing test, which were subjected to repeated tensile-shearing deformation using a simulated fatigue tester has been investigated and compared, by calculating both mechanical properties and hand value(HV) of these fabrics with KES-F system and the by obtaining the THV through these calculated properties. The results are as follows. 1. The fatigue phenomenon of mechanical properties was the LT, 2H B, 2HBS, MMD, SMD, RC values increased, elasticity values of tensile, bending and shearing properties, such as B, G and compression properties LC, WC were reduced. It was shown, then, that those fabrics lost their elasticity and became flexible and soft with the increase of fatigue. 2. The hand value and THV; except anterior knee from all part of KOSHI, NUMERI, FUKURAMI was decreased. 3. The fatigue phenomenon of hand value was different on the position of clothing; on the position of hip, rate of B, G smaller than other parts and KOSHI was decreased, on the part of anterior thigh was FUKURAMI was increased, on the anterior knee RC, NUMERI, THV was increased, on the posterior knee was 2HB, 2HG, 2HGS showed increasedgreater than any other part and on the hem of back, MMD was increased, but NUMERI was decreased. 4. The changing process of mechanical properties in the simulation testing by the fatigue tester has similar tendency to that of the wearing tester. It is concluded that this testing method is useful to predict the fatigue phenomena of fabrics caused by wearing.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제14권3호
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• pp.486-491
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• 2012

This study examined the sound characteristics of Taekwondo uniform fabrics to investigate the relationship between the sound parameters and the mechanical properties of the fabric as well as to provide the conditions to maximize the frictional sound of the uniform. Frictional sounds of 6 fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms were generated by the Simulator for Frictional Sound of Fabrics. The frictional speeds were controlled at low(0.62 m/s), at mid(1.21 m/s) and at high(2.25 m/s) speed, respectively. The frictional sounds were recorded using a Data Recorder and Sound Quality System subsequently, the physical sound properties such as SPL(Sound Pressure Level) and Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters were calculated. Mechanical properties of specimens were measured by KES-FB. The SPL, Loudness(Z) values increased while Sharpness(Z) value decreased. In the physical sound parameter, specimen E had the highest SPL value at low speed and specimen B at high speed. In case of Zwicker's psychoacoustic parameters, the commercially available Taekwondo uniform fabrics(E, F) showed higher values of Loudness(Z), Sharpness(Z), and Roughness(Z), that indicates they can produce louder, shaper and rougher sounds than other fabrics for Taekwondo uniforms. The decisive factors that affected frictional sounds for Taekwondo uniforms were W(weight) as well as EM(elongation at maximum load) at low speed and WC(compressional energy) at high speed.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권4호
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• pp.515-523
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• 1994

This study was accomplished to investigate the mechanical properties and handle according to treatment processes and brushing condition. For this study, grey fabrics of blended ratio of polyester 65% : cotton 35% were bleached and dyed. These fabrics were then brushed 1, 3, 5 and 7 times. The mechanical properties were measured with a KES-F system and the mechanical data were then transformed into hand values by the conversion equation, that is, KN-201-MDY. The results obtained by the analysis are as follows; 1) The variation of mechanical properties was remarkable in the initial brushing of 1∼ 3 cycles for all of grey, bleached and dyed fabrics. The values of RT, 2HB, B, G, 2HGS, MMD and SMD were decreased and MIU, WC and T were increased with the increase of number of brushing . 2) LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, 2HGS, MMD, SMH and W of dyed fabrics which is coincident with the end use showed lower values than those of grey or bleached fabrics, but MIU, WC and T were higher 3) From the variation of hand value, stiffness of dyed fabric showed lower value than that of grey or bleached fabric. On the other hand, smoothness, soft feeling and total hand values of dyed fabric were higher. Especially, dyed fabric showed the highest total value at the 3 cycles of brushing condition.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제21권8호
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• pp.1315-1322
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• 1997

Ramie is one of the traditional fabrics in Korea, and very comfortable fabric for summer clothes because it has a high moisture-absorbing and transporting property. Futhermore ramie is very popular and Koreans prefer its handle for summer clothes. The kansan ramie has better quality as fibers and can be weaved as fine fabrics which are famous as kansan Fine ramie. Even though the good quality of kansan ramie has known widely, very few research work have been carried out on kansan ramie in the field of textile science. In this study, the analysis of the physical and chemical characteristics of Hansan ramie was conducted by using two different kinds of Hansan ramie: Hansan Fine ramie and kansan Coarse ramie. In addition, the same experiment was held on the one kind of chinese ramie to be compared with those of Hansan ramie. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. By the analysis of chemical composition of ramie, the similar chemical composition (a -cellulose: 83∼85%, pectin substances: 2.81∼ 3.01%) were found from all of the ramie fabrics used in this study. It has shown that Hansan coarse ramie has the highest toughness value and wrinkle recovery angle among the samples used in this study. From the result of KES-F system, it was found that Hansan Coarse ramie which is composed with the thicker yarns has the highest value on the bending properties, 2HG and surface properties. The primary hand value was also calculated by KN-203 LDY and value of Koshi was shown as the order of kansan coarse ramie> Chinese ramie> kansan fine ramie, and Hansan fine ramie had shown the highest Numeri and Fukurami value among the 3 samples used in this study.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권3호
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• pp.280-287
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• 1999

본 연구의 목적은 위편성포의 역학적 성질값들의 조합값이 직불의 변형거동에 어떠한 영향을 미치는지에 대하여 편성조직과 편성밀도를 달리하여 살펴보고자 하였다. 위편성포 6종류를 선택하여 ($1{\times}1$ 고무편, 편반편, 편대편, 인터록편, 싱글피케, 크로스미스 인터록) 각각 편성밀도를 3가지(loose, medium, tight)로 달리하여 총 18종류의 위편성포를 제작하였다. 단위면적당 무게에 대한 굽힘 히스테리시스의 비인 2HB/W는 모든 편성조직에서 편성밀도가 증가함에 따라 커지며 싱글니트보다는 더블니트에서 더 큰 값을 보인다. 전단성질 중 탄성성분에 대한 소성성분의 비인 2HG/G는 모든 편성조직과 편성밀도에서 3이상의 매우 높은 값을 나타냈다. 표면의 요철변동에 대한 마찰계수의 변동비, 즉 MMD/SMD값은 편성밀도가 커질수록 감소하여 표면상태가 평활해짐을 알 수 있으며 더블 니트가 싱글니트보다 더 적은 값을 나타내어 표면의 평활도가 훨씬 우수한 것으로 나타났다.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권2호
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• pp.160-165
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• 1999

The thermal properies of the pure linen fabrics available in the market and linen blended woven fabrics were measured at the moisture content of 0%, 20%, 40% and 60% using KES-F7 system (Thermo Iabo II type). The experimental properties were statistically analyzed by the rate of water absorbent. The main results were as follows; There is a positive correlation between the thermal insulation value (TIV) and thickness of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Whereas an negative correlation exists between the TIV and cover factor. There is a high positive correlation among the thermal conductivity (k), thickness and weight of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exist between the k and air' permeability (Ap). There is a high positive correlation between the feeling of warmth/coldness and bulk density of pure linen and linen blended woven fabrics by water absorption. Wherase a high negative correlation exists between the feeling of warmth/coldness and porosity. There is a negative correlation between TIV and $q_{max}$ of pure linen fabrics and linen blended woven fabrics. The higher the rate of water absorbent, the lower the TIV. This means that TIV decreases by water absorption. As for the thermal property by rate of water absorbent $q_{max}$ and k increase by water absorption and reach max-value at 60% rate of water absorbent. The TIV decreases by water absorption and has +value at 0% rate of water absorbent, whereas it has -value with a feeling of coldness at 20%, 40%. and 60% rate of water absorbent.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.169-179
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• 1988

In the part 1, relations were found between fundmental mechanical properties and primary hand values, performance of Korean women's summer fabrics. In this paper, in order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's fall & winter fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 90 commercial fabrics for women's fall & winter clothes were classfied into 39 silk and 51 polyester fabrics according to meterials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. Furthermore, there mechanical properties as well as their hand values were discussed in comparison with those values for kimono fabrics. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. The shape of silk fabrics in formation for weared clothes show a box-shaped silhouette. Polyester fabrics has a easy to shape-less and make a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have ${\pm}1\sigma$ range of bending, shearing, surface properties and thickness as compared with kimono fabrics. 3. A wrinkle recovery and drapability of silk fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes are inferior to kimono fabrics. On the other hand, the fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have conical-shaped silhouette based on higher bending rigidity. 4. Except for flexibility with soft feeling, a primary factor of mechanical properties contributes to the hand values of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes having no concern with materials were same as the women's summer fabrics. 5. As for the hand values of fabrics for Korean folk clothes, stiffness, anti-drape stiffness are larger than those of kimono fabric and stiffness, anti-drape stiffness, crispness of fabrics for Korean women's fall & winter clothes have smaller values as compared with Korean women's summer fabrics.