• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제20권6호
• /
• pp.1039-1047
• /
• 1996

The purpose of this study is to examine and to evaluate the properties of pile materials to produce velvet fabrics which have excellent handle. In order to perform this purpose, the mechanical properties, hand value (H.V.), total hand value (T.H.V.), total appearance value (T.A.V.) of acetate, cuprammonium rayon, cotton materials for velvet as the typical commercial Pile fabric were measured and analyzed by KES-F system. The important results obtained by this study are as follows. 1 For acetate pile, elogational deformation was easy and bending rigidity of weft was high and elastic recovery was excellent compared with the other materials. 2. Cuprammonium rayon velvet was shown that pile bending rigidity and hysterisis were low. Cotton velvet was shown that compressional energy was high and compressinal elasticity was exellent. 3. In the case that specimens were applied by men's winter suit program, H.V was shown that Koshi of acetate velvet was similar to that of cotton. Numeri of cuprammonium rayon velvet was higher than the others and Fukurami values for all of the three fabrics were similar. 4. But in case that specimens were applied by women's winter suit program Koshi of cuprammonium rayon velvet was lower. But Numeri of that was higher than the others and Fukurami for all of the three fabrics were similar and Sofutosa of cotton velvet was lower than the others. T.H.V. of the acetate velvet was the highest in men's winter suit program while cuprammonium rayon velvet was the highest in women's winter suit program T.A.V. of acetate velvet was highest.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제11권3호
• /
• pp.79-88
• /
• 1987

In order to investigate the hand values and mechanical properties such as tensile, shearing, bending, compression, surface and thickness & weight of the women's summer fabrics were measured by KES-F system. Sorts of 78 commercial fabrics of women's summer cloth were classfied into 43 silk and 35 polyester fabrics according to materials. The experimental results were analysed statistically to relate the hand values and the mechanical properties and concerning to formation of weared clothes and transformation behavior were investigated. The main results are summarized as follows; 1. Polyester fabrics show higher tensile deformation than those of silk fabric. And also polyster fabric has a easy to shape-less and makes a silhouette which goes along with the body. 2. Silk fabrics is superior to polyester fabrics in formation and shear elasticity building box-shaped silhouette. 3. Polyester fabrics show sufficient ability to recover from tending deformation and drapability On the other hand, the compressibility and bending rigidity of silk fabrics were superior to polyester fabrics. 4. Regardless of materials, the bending properties is closely assocsiated with stiffness, anti-drape stiffness and flexibility with soft feeling. Fullness & softness and crispness is primarily influenced by surface properties. There is substantive relationship between scrooping and sheaing properties.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
• /
• 제29권2호
• /
• pp.67-72
• /
• 1987

견직물의 효소정련에 있어서 조련정도가 효소정련한 견직물의 특성에 미치는 영향을 구명하기 위하여 조련정도가 다른 효소정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 약단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 비교한 결과는 아래와 같다. 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 조련연감율이 증가와 함께 포의 stiffness는 감소되고 smoothness는 향상되었으나 종합 태값인 soft feeling은 조련 20%에서 가장 우수하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 anti-drape stiffness는 조련정도가 커지는데 따라서 증가되었으나 기타 특성과 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 조련정도와 상관이 인정되지 않았다.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
• /
• 제28권2호
• /
• pp.52-60
• /
• 1986

견직물에 효소에 의한 정련처리를 비누-소다정련과 함께 실시한 후 이들 정련견포에 대하여 KES-F System을 적용하여 역학적 특성 즉 인장, 굽힘, 전단, 압축 및 표면특성을 측정하고 태값을 산출하여 효소정련과 비누-소다정련견포의 태값을 비교한 결과 1. 능하부다이 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 포의 Stiffness가 비누-소다정련을 한 것에 비하여 감소되었고 Smoothness와 Soft feeling은 증가하였다. 2. 크\ulcorner데신 견직물의 경우 효소정련을 하면 비누-소다 정련에 비하여 Stiffness와 Anti-Drape Stiffness는 감소되었으며 Fullness와 종합 태값인 Flexibility with soft feeling은 향상되었다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제18권3호
• /
• pp.327-338
• /
• 1994

KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.

• 한국염색가공학회지
• /
• 제26권2호
• /
• pp.114-123
• /
• 2014

This research investigated the physical properties of PET coolness filaments and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics of these knitted fabrics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. The coolness filament(S) with non-circular cross-section and hydrophilic property was spun and another commercialized coolness(A) and regular(R) PET filaments were prepared for comparing coolness and another physical properties. Qmax of coolness knitted fabric made with S filament was higher than that of R-PET filament, and the maximum value of Qmax of S knitted fabric was shown at the dyeing conditions of temperature, $110^{\circ}C$ with 30 min. or 40min. It was shown that hand of S knitted fabric was a little harsh comparing to A and regular knit specimens, but shape retention and wearing performance of garment made with S knit specimen were estimated as good owing to high bending and shear rigidity. K/S of S knitted fabric was higher than those of regular PET and A knit specimens. Dyeing fastness of coolness knitted fabric showed between 4th and 5th grade.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.47-55
• /
• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• Fibers and Polymers
• /
• 제6권2호
• /
• pp.169-173
• /
• 2005

Low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment was applied to wool fabric with the use of a non-polymerizing gas, namely oxygen. After the LTP treatment, the fabric properties including low-stress mechanical properties, air permeability and thermal properties, were evaluated. The low-stress mechanical properties were evaluated by means of Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F) revealing that the tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties were altered after the LTP treatment. The changes in these properties are believed to be related closely to the inter-fiber and inter-yam frictional force induced by the LTP. The decrease in the air permeability of the LTP-treated wool fabric was found to be probably due to the plasma action effect on increasing in the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP-treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the above findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yams and fibers. This study suggested that the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric.

• 감성과학
• /
• 제9권1호
• /
• pp.39-48
• /
• 2006

본 연구의 목적은 직물 소리의 주관적 감각을 결정하는 객관적 성질 중 가장 밀접한 관계를 지닌 것으로 보고되고 있는 물리적 음압 외에 직물 소리의 미세한 감각 차이를 설명할 수 있는 2차적 물성들을 규명하는 데에 있다. 3dB 이내의 유사 음압을 보이는 전통 견직물 다섯 종을 선택하여, 음향학적 물성치로 음색 요인인 ${\Delta}L$과 ${\Delta}f$, 심리음향학적 요인인 sharpness[z], roughness[z], fluctuation strength를 측정하고, 직물의 역학적 성질로서 Kawabata Evaluation System (KES)의 17개 물성을 측정하였다. 주관적 감각은 자유식강도측정법에 의하여 부드러움과 시끄러움을 포함한 7개 감각을 평가하였다. 연구 결과, 유사음압의 전통 견직물의 소리에 대한 주관적 감각 중 객관적 물성과 유의한 상관관계를 보이는 감각은 맑음과 거침, 높음이었다. 견직물 소리 간에 차이를 보인 맑음과 거침은 음색 요인인 ${\Delta}L$에 의해 영향을 받아서, ${\Delta}L$ 값이 큰 직물일수록 소리가 더 맑고 덜 거칠게 느껴지는 것으로 나타났다. 또한 주관적인 높음은 roughness[z]와 ${\Delta}f$와 유의적 상관관계를 나타내어, roughness[z] 값이 커질수록 또는 ${\Delta}f$값이 작아질수록 소리가 더 높게 느껴지는 경향을 보였다. 따라서 유사음압의 전통 견직물의 소리 감각은 음압 외에 roughness[z]와 음색 요인들에 의하여 결정되며, 이를 전통 견직물의 소리 설계에 활용할 수 있을 것으로 기대된다.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제10권1호
• /
• pp.47-57
• /
• 1986

The purpose of this study is to investigate fatigue phenomema of woven fabric. In order to obtain the basic data which is available for predicting the fabric fatigue phenomena, the change of mechanical properties of woven fabrics caused by the wearing and the changes of mechanical properties of woven fabrics which were subjected to repeated tensile-shearing deformation using fabric testing machine has been investigated and compared. The fatigue of woven fabrics was examined with the value of basic mechanical properties of specimens measured by the KES-F fabric testing system and their hand value and wearing ability. The results were as follows. 1) The fatigue phenomena of woven fabrics by the wearing for 800 hours are different on the position of the body: On the portion of hip, the change of surface property was the greatest, bending hysterisis was greatly increased, thickness weight, stiffness, fullness shearing hysterisis were more increased than original fabric and T.H.V. was decreased. On the portion of knee, decreasing of tensile resilience and increasing of bending, shearing hysterisis were observed greater than any other part, and increasing of stiffness, crispness was more than original fabric. On the bottom area, the changes of mechanical property was comparatively small, H.V. and T.H.V. showed near the value of the original fabric. 2) By drycleaning most of mechanical properties showed the tendency to recover the value of the original fabric, but bending hysterisis and thickess were increased, tensile and com-pression resilience were decreased more than original fabric in all parts. 3) The fatigue phenomena caused by fabric fatigue testing machine were as follows. The decreasing of hystersis in the repeated deformation such as bending, shearing was appeared at the $10^2$ deformation, but with the increasing cycle, the tendency was slightly regained. Handle value was also appeared the lowest value at the $10^2$ deformation.