• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.18 no.3
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• pp.327-338
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• 1994

KES-F system is widely used in hand evaluation, however, it has encountered some challenges, such as the overlapping of primary hand value, lack of predictability in case of women's thin dress, difficulties in communication due to complexity of primary hand expression and cultural differences in subjective evaluation. Therefore, this study was intended 1) to find out the Korean primary hand expressions(factors) of the overall concept of fabric hand associated with women's spring- fall dress fabrics, 2) to develope the fabric hand attributes of those fabrics and 3) to show whether there are any differences between Korean textile experts and non-experts in terms of the concept of fabric hand descriptors of hand attributes. Data base of hand descriptors were collected by extensive interview 60 experts and 10 non - experts using 110 spring-fall dress fabrics. Finally, hand of selected fabrics was assessed by 205 experts and 265 non-experts using 7-point scale of 26 descriptors based on the data base. Subjective ratings were analyzed by common factor analysis with varimax rotation. It was found that Korean primary hand expression indicated rather simple property, hence, did not equate exactly with Japanese experssion(e.g. koshi, shinayakasa, etc.) which contains several material properties. There were differences in stretch IE resilience, especially liveliness, between the judgement of non- ex- pert than to experts. Surface- related category was more important to non-experts than to experts. Slight differences were found between both groups in terms of preferred descriptors. Important descriptors as a rating scale were suggested.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.16 no.3 s.43
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• pp.251-256
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• 1992

As a basic expriment to find out the thermal insulation effect of bedding KES-F7 was used to measure. The warmth retaining ratio of the six kinds of filling materials as cotton, wool , silk, down, cotton/polyester was measured, and the infleunce on the warmth retaining ratio of the warmth retaining ratio and humidity by the material was investigated. The results obtained are as follows: 1. The warmth retaining ratio of each filling material was shown to range from $70\%$ to $77\%$ . The warmth retaining ratio of each material preyed to be high in order down> polyester> cotton/polyester>cotton>silk>wool fiber. 2. The warmth retaining ratio of each filling material decreased with the inclose of the humidity The effective reduction rate by filling fiber's was high in order wool>cotton>cotton/polyester>silk>down>polyester material. 3. The warmth retaining ratio of each filling material was shown to be in counter-correlation with the humidity, and the correlation coefficient (r=0.94-0.98) proved to be highly signi-ficant.

• Textile Coloration and Finishing
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• v.26 no.2
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• pp.114-123
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• 2014

This research investigated the physical properties of PET coolness filaments and their knitted fabrics including dyeing characteristics of these knitted fabrics according to the different dyeing time and temperature. The coolness filament(S) with non-circular cross-section and hydrophilic property was spun and another commercialized coolness(A) and regular(R) PET filaments were prepared for comparing coolness and another physical properties. Qmax of coolness knitted fabric made with S filament was higher than that of R-PET filament, and the maximum value of Qmax of S knitted fabric was shown at the dyeing conditions of temperature, $110^{\circ}C$ with 30 min. or 40min. It was shown that hand of S knitted fabric was a little harsh comparing to A and regular knit specimens, but shape retention and wearing performance of garment made with S knit specimen were estimated as good owing to high bending and shear rigidity. K/S of S knitted fabric was higher than those of regular PET and A knit specimens. Dyeing fastness of coolness knitted fabric showed between 4th and 5th grade.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.47-55
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• 1985

To determine the change of the mechanical properties of the wool/polyester blend fabrics in proportion to blend ratio, 10 mechanical properties were measured on 6 blend fabrics by KES-F system. Blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics was increased by $20\%$, and the structure of the fabric were plain, 2/2 twill, respectively. And wearing performances in propoetion to blend ratio on the 6 blend fabrics were investigated. In this experiment. the following conclusions were obtained with the increase of blend ratio of polyester. 1) The values of WT, RT in tensile properties. tensile energy and elongation, and RC in compressional properties were decreased. 2) The values of B, 2HB in bending properties, 2HG. 2HG 5 in shearing properties were increased. 3) Putting on clothes, wearing performance was bad because crumbling of shape and wrinkle were easily made an appearance. Particularly it was remarkably bad as blend ratio of polyester was expressed $60\%$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.1
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• pp.112-118
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• 2004

Recently, as the percentage of women employment has been growing, the demand for various facilities and services regarding household duties and infant rearing is increasing and so do the amount of the disposable diaper used. Among the components of disposable diaper, the top sheet contacting with infant skin directly is usually made with nonwoven textiles. Therefore, the mechanical and surface characteristics of the nonwovens used in disposable diaper are important for the skin health of infants. In this study, we have explored the mechanical and surface properties, such as friction coefficient, fluid permeability and strength, of the nonwovens used for disposable diaper top sheet and observed the variation of their properties with abrasion cycles. Nonwoven materials examined in this study are 100% cotton spunlace, 100% tencel spunlace, 100% polypropylene (PP) thermal bonding and 100% PP air through (Thru-air bonded carded web). From the result of KES-F analysis, we've found that 100% PP air through type nonwoven had a low friction coefficient and showed a little change in surface properties as increasing abrasion cycles. Moreover, it revealed superior fluid permeability and quick-drying character. On the other hand, though showing an excellent absorption force, the spun lace type nonwoven made of 100% cotton and 100% tencel displayed relatively low abrasion strength especially in wetting condition.

• Fibers and Polymers
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• v.6 no.2
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• pp.169-173
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• 2005

Low temperature plasma (LTP) treatment was applied to wool fabric with the use of a non-polymerizing gas, namely oxygen. After the LTP treatment, the fabric properties including low-stress mechanical properties, air permeability and thermal properties, were evaluated. The low-stress mechanical properties were evaluated by means of Kawabata Evaluation System Fabric (KES-F) revealing that the tensile, shearing, bending, compression and surface properties were altered after the LTP treatment. The changes in these properties are believed to be related closely to the inter-fiber and inter-yam frictional force induced by the LTP. The decrease in the air permeability of the LTP-treated wool fabric was found to be probably due to the plasma action effect on increasing in the fabric thickness and a change in fabric surface morphology. The change in the thermal properties of the LTP-treated wool fabric was in good agreement with the above findings and can be attributed to the amount of air trapped between the yams and fibers. This study suggested that the LTP treatment can influence the final properties of the wool fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.35 no.11
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• pp.1362-1376
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• 2011

This study examines the effect of the structural properties of F/W wool knit fabrics for woman's knitwear on the perceptions of textures and sensible images of consumers and present basic data for textile designing by analyzing the relationship among the structural properties, mechanical properties, objective hand measurements and preferences. A total of 12 kinds of knit fabrics were prepared and investigated in terms of the differences in the subjective, mechanical properties and objective hand measurements according to the structural properties of knit fabrics. The data were analyzed by t-test. The subjective hand attributes of wool knits through factor analysis are categorized into 6 factors. In particular, the 'active/comfort' factor is a meaningful result that reflects the unique characteristics of knit fabrics compared to woven fabrics. Mechanical properties and objective hand measurements have a greater effect on textures than on sensible images; in addition, the structural properties, 'gauge' was the most important factor to influence the subjective evaluation.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.267-272
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• 2003

Tactel(Nylon66) union fabrics were woven with the specification of 70d/34f nylon as warp for sport wear jacket. Weft yarn has three types; 100% cotton yarn, nylon core-spun yarn and nylon-polyurethane covering yarn as weft. Fabric structers were plain, twill and satin weave structure with the air jet loom. The mechanical properties of 8 fabrics were measured with KES-F and primary Hand Values and Total Hand Values were calculated. The results of the study were as follows: 1) There was little difference among LTs of N/CM fabric groups. RT of the fabrics with CM100's was bigger than that of fabrics with CM80's, resulting that the fabrics with CM100's have better formability. In terms of weaving structure, twill fabrics have shape deformation. 2) In comparison of RTs with weft yarn type, RT of N-PU covering yarn was the highest, followed by Nylon core-spun yarn and cotton yarn. Thus, the fabric with N-PU covering yarn has better stability of shape deformation. 3) Stretch yarn could express an excellent silhouette formation and twill and satin structures were better structure to make curvature on human form. 4) 2HG/G value of nylon core-spun fabrics was larger than that of N/C fabrics, but the silhouette formation of N/C fabrics was excellent. 5) The RC of N/PU was the highest, followed by N/P, and N/CM. 6) Koski of N/PU fabrics was the highest, Numeri of N/PU and N/Co-I were relatively higher than the others. THVs of N/CM-IV and N/CO-II were lower than the others, resulting that, twill structure was better than plain structure for a sport wear uses.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.9 no.1
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• pp.39-48
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• 2006

This study was carried out to investigate sound sensation of Korean traditional silk fabrics with similar sound pressure levels (SPL) and to identify secondary physical factors excluding SPL which determine sound sensation of the fabrics. Sounds of the silk fabrics tended to be perceived differently from one another as for some of sensation such as clearness ant roughness. They were felt more strongly in aspects of loudness, roughness, and highness than of softness, sharpness, clearness, and pleasantness. Subjective clearness, roughness, and highness were significantly correlated with some of sound parameters including roughness(z), ${\Delta}L,\;and\;{\Delta}f$. Especially, both of clearness and roughness which were varied among the fabrics were found as determined by ${\Delta}L$. This result means that ${\Delta}L$ as well as roughness(z) and ${\Delta}f$ could be utilized secondary to SPL in order to satisfy some of human sensibility for sound from traditional silk fabrics without variation of physical loudness.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.10 no.1
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• pp.47-57
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• 1986

The purpose of this study is to investigate fatigue phenomema of woven fabric. In order to obtain the basic data which is available for predicting the fabric fatigue phenomena, the change of mechanical properties of woven fabrics caused by the wearing and the changes of mechanical properties of woven fabrics which were subjected to repeated tensile-shearing deformation using fabric testing machine has been investigated and compared. The fatigue of woven fabrics was examined with the value of basic mechanical properties of specimens measured by the KES-F fabric testing system and their hand value and wearing ability. The results were as follows. 1) The fatigue phenomena of woven fabrics by the wearing for 800 hours are different on the position of the body: On the portion of hip, the change of surface property was the greatest, bending hysterisis was greatly increased, thickness weight, stiffness, fullness shearing hysterisis were more increased than original fabric and T.H.V. was decreased. On the portion of knee, decreasing of tensile resilience and increasing of bending, shearing hysterisis were observed greater than any other part, and increasing of stiffness, crispness was more than original fabric. On the bottom area, the changes of mechanical property was comparatively small, H.V. and T.H.V. showed near the value of the original fabric. 2) By drycleaning most of mechanical properties showed the tendency to recover the value of the original fabric, but bending hysterisis and thickess were increased, tensile and com-pression resilience were decreased more than original fabric in all parts. 3) The fatigue phenomena caused by fabric fatigue testing machine were as follows. The decreasing of hystersis in the repeated deformation such as bending, shearing was appeared at the $10^2$ deformation, but with the increasing cycle, the tendency was slightly regained. Handle value was also appeared the lowest value at the $10^2$ deformation.