• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.28 no.3_4
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• pp.491-498
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• 2004

Among the components of disposable diaper, the top sheet contacting with baby skin directly is usually made of nonwoven fabrics. Therefore, the tactile properties of the nonwoven fabrics are important for the skin health of infants. In this study, we have explored the surface properties of hygiene nonwoven fabrics (100% cotton spunlace, 100% tencel spunlace, 100% polypropylene (PP) thermalbonding and 100% PP Thru-air bonded carded web (TABCW)), such as friction coefficient and geometrical roughness. used by KES-F system and a laser displacement sensor. Also, we evaluated the subjective responses about the hygiene nonwoven fabrics used by a questionnaire and compared with the objective values, measured by KES-F system and a laser displacement sensor respectively. From the result, we have found that surface sensation (such as soft, smooth, and rough) and bulkiness sensation (such as spongy and fluffy) of nonwovens were represented excellently by L-SMD values which are measured by a laser displacement sensor.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.471-482
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• 1995

Using the acetate velvet and viscose velvet whose pile lengths were sheared as 1.45, 1.55, 1 65, 1.75, 1.85, 1.90mm under the condition equating the weaving process of ground fabric, the conclusions were as follows through the results of the sensory assessments estimated by women students in our university and the physical properties, H. V and T. H. V obtained by KES-F system. 1. In the sensory assessments estimated by the method of paired comparison and ranking of samples, the longer pile length was, the more the hand values of smoothness, softness, thickness, heaviness increased on the whole. 2. The H V. and T. H. V. measured by KES-F system were as follows; Kohi increased to pile length 1.85mm and then decreased a little at 1.90mm. hummer increased as pile length was longer. Fukurami increased to pile length 1.75mm and then decreased gradually as pile length was longer. Total hand value increased gradually from 1. 45mm to 1.85mm, had the top value at 1.85mm, and then decreased a little at 1.90mm. 3. In the results of summarizing $\ulcorner$the physical properties correlated closely with the H. V obtained by sensory assessments$\lrcorner$ and tithe Physical properties correlated closely with the H. V. and T. H. V obtained by KES-F systems, it showed that all the sensory properties correlated closely with compressive energy, flexural rigidity, thickness, weight and pile ratio in the former and that the physical properties correlated closely with each H V and T. H. V were different in the latter. 4. It showed that factor 1 was related to compressive energy, thickness, weight, pile ratio, factor 2 was related to recovery energy, compressive resilience, compressive index, and factor 3 was related to compressive recovery ratio in the result of factor analysis. 5. In the multiple repression analysis, the expressions of all sensory properties had compressive ratio, frictional coefficient in the regression expressions of $\ulcorner$H. V. obtained by sensory assessments$\lrcorner$, while the expressions of each H. V. and different physical properties in the regression expressions of $\ulcorner$H. V. obtained by KES-F system$\lrcorner$.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.862-871
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• 1998

In this study, the effect of sizing on the physical and mechanical characteristics of Hansan ramie was studied. 2 kinds of Hansan ramie were used for this study and one kind of the chinese ramie was also used for comparing with the characteristics of Hansan ramies. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. The wrinkle recovery angle was gradually reduced according to the increasing of the concentration of sizing agent. As the size agent could easily penetrate between the thick yarms, the effect of sizing on the wrinkle recovery angle was evident on the Chinese and Hansan coarse ramie. The result of KES-F system showed that the sizing affected much on the bending properties and shear properties. As the size concentration was increased the shear properties were increased more evidently on the Chinese and Hansan coarse ramie. The result of KES-F system showed that the sizing affected much on the bending properties and shear properties. As the size concentration was increased the shear properties were increased more evidently than the bending properties. The other mechanical properties didn't changed much by sizing. The calculated primary hand value also showed that the ramie became more stiff after sizing.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 1999.03a
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• pp.219-219
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• 1999

마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

• Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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• 2002.05a
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• pp.357-360
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• 2002

직물의 질감을 객관화시키는 연구는 고부가가치의 의류제품을 생산하고 판매하는데 매우 중요한 요소이다. 질감은 직물의 역학적 성질과 표면상태에 따라 좌우되며, 이의 측정방법 중에서 KES-F system이 가장 객관화되어 있다. KES-F system을 이용한 표면 거칠기 측정방법은 피아노선을 굴곡 시켜 일정한 힘을 가한 상태에서 직물의 표면을 문질러 측정하므로 직물의 표면을 문질러 측정하므로 직물 표면의 잔털이 눌려진 상태여서 질감해석을 위한 정확한 측정이 어렵다. 따라서 우리는 기하학적인 직물 표면의 거칠기를 표면의 변형없이 측정 가능한 레이저 센서를 사용하였다. 한편 직물의 주로 경사ㆍ위사로 짜여져 있어 이방성 성질을 가지고 있으므로 직물을 3방향으로 측정하여 해석하였다. 측정된 신호는 FET를 이용하여 일정한 주기의 표면형태를 구하고, 표면 높낮이의 평균, 최저값과 최고값을 구하여 표면의 특성을 얻었다. 직물 표면에 존재하는 잔털은 영상처리장치를 이용하여 양을 측정하였으며 표면의 거칠기 측정결과와 비교 분석하여 레이저 센서를 이용한 비접촉식 측정방법의 오차분석 및 표면 특징을 해석하였다.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.5 no.3
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• pp.47-52
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• 2002

The handle of fabrics including tactility and sense of visuality are closely related to the factors governing the preferences of end-users. This study shows the change of mechanical properties, thermal properties and optical properties by comparing two fabrics which are woven with circular shaped filaments and with triangular ones. The fabric mechanical characteristics required for primary hand values were evaluated with the KES-FB system. The mechanical properties measured by KES-FB system shows that fabrics made of circular filaments are greater than those made of triangular ones. The thermal properties measured by KES-F7(Thermo Labo II) system shows that the values of the initial maximum value(qmax) and the thermal conductivity(λ) are higher in the fabric made of triangular shaped ones. When the light rays tall on a surface, the fabric made of triangular filaments shows more lustrous than circular ones.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.344-352
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• 2017

This study investigated the formability and appearance performance of 20 women's worsted fabrics. For this purpose, 10 foreign fabrics (9 Italian + 1 Japan fabrics) were prepared and 10 domestic worsted fabrics for women were made in Cheil woolen textile company for comparing with foreign fabrics. The mechanical properties of the 20 fabrics were measured using KES-FB and FAST systems; subsequently, fabric formability (F) and total appearance value (TAV) were calculated and compared with a virtual 3-D simulation silhouette by i-designer CAD system. The fabric formability of the domestic fabrics, calculated by KES-FB system, was lower than foreign fabrics, which was assumed to be caused by the stiff tactile property. The result was similar to that of the FAST system. Good wearing performance of the foreign worsted fabric was assumed to be caused by high extensibility and the compressibility of the fabrics. The TAV's of the domestic fabrics were also lower than foreign fabrics. Both the correlation between TAV and formability by the KESFB system and the correlation between TAV and formability by FAST system showed a good correlation coefficient. Fabric formability between KES-FB and FAST systems also showed a good correlation. The 3-D simulation silhouette of the foreign fabric by i-designer CAD system appeared superior to the domestic one, and assumed to be attributed to the low extensibility of the weft direction, stiff bending and high shear properties of the fabric.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.22 no.7
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• pp.807-815
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• 1998

Functions of interlinings to the shell fabric are to improve the garment formability for a beautiful silhouette and elastic potential to the deformed fabric during wearing, and also are to enhance appearance and wearing properties of garment. The objective of this study is to analyse the thermal properties of nonwoven fusible interlining to the thin worsted fabric with various fabric structural parameters. For the purpose fo this study, eight specimens with various weft yarn twists and weft densities of thin worsted fabrics are prepared. Three nonwoven fusible interlinings with different structure which were made by Nylon/Polyester were used for adhering to the thin worsted fabrics. Thermal properties of these 24 adhesive fabrics fused with 3 nonwoven interlinings are measured by KES-F7 System for analysing the thermal suitability of nonwoven fusible interlinings to the thin worsted fabrics with various fabric structural parameters. And air permeability, which was measured by KES-F8-API, of 24 nonwoven adhesive interlining fabrics was also analysed and discussed with the various kinds of nonwoven interlinings and fabric structural parameters.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.4
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• pp.671-683
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• 1995

This paper described the changes of mechanical KES values after fusing 4 different (in weave & density) wool face fabrics with 3 different (in weave & extensibility) fusible interlining. The fusing condition was 15$0^{\circ}C$, 4kg.f/cm2 The results of the study were as follows: (1) After fusing, KES mechanical value of B, 2HB, G, 2HGS, WC increased, where as LT, WT werent't changed so much and EM, RT decreased. It means after fusing extensibility and recovery property were decreased and volume and stiffness were increased. (2) Within the limits of this investigation, tensile property seemed to be more influenced by the characteristics of face fabrics, and bending property nil by the effect of adhesive penetration and shear and compression property did by complex of the characteristics of face fabrics and interlining and the effect of adhesive penetration.

• Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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• v.7 no.4
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• pp.25-33
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• 2004

This study surveys the fabric surface properties such as mean value of the friction coefficient(MIU), mean deviation of the friction coefficient(MMD) and mean deviation of surface roughness(SMD) due to warp and weft tension differences using KES-FB system. For this purpose, fabric is designed as 5 harness Satin weave using 75d/36f warp and 100d/192f weft polyester filaments, and is woven by OmegaR rapier loom by Textec Co.Ltd and Picanol-GTXR rapier loom by Picanol Co.Ltd respectively. These grey fabrics are processed on the same dyeing and finishing processes. The fabric surface properties according to the weaving looms are analysed with warp and weft weaving tensions. And also surveyed the difference of fabric surface properties according to the fabric positions such as center and each edge of fabrics for the sensitive garment.