• Title/Summary/Keyword: KES

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마직물의 태에 관한 연구 -주관적 태 평가 방법과 객관적 태 측정을 통한 산출식의 개발을 중심으로-

  • 박성혜;유효선
    • Proceedings of the Korean Society for Emotion and Sensibility Conference
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    • 1999.03a
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    • pp.219-219
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    • 1999
  • 마직물은 통기성, 흡수성, 투습성이 좋고 건조가 빠른 편이므로 여름철 직물로 많이 사용되어 왔다. 마직물은 또한 뻣뻣하며 몸에 감기지 않고 촉감이 깔깔하여 시원한 느낌을 주며 다른 직물에 비해 강직하고 표면이 거칠고 드레이프성이 떨어지는 등의 독특한 태를 가지고 있다. KES-F 시험기에 의해 여러 물성량들을 종합적으로 계측할 수 있게 됨에 따라 의복의 착용감에 만족을 주는 소재의 성능에 대한 연구가 종래의 주관적평가에서 KES-F 시스템을 이용하여 객관적으로 태를 예측하는 방법으로 진행되고 있다. 그러나 태를 평가하는 객관적 방법에서는 일반적으로 Kawabata와 Niwa에 의해 만들어진 평가식들이 주로 사용되나 이런 식들은 주로 모직물이나 합성섬유직물들을 평가하기에는 적합하지만 마직물의 독특한 태를 평가하기에는 부족하다고 생각된다. 마직물의 태가 기존의 객관적 평가방법만으로는 규명되지 않기 때문에 주관적 태평가방법을 아울러 실시해야 할 필요가 있다고 생각된다. 따라서 본 연구에서는 마직물의 태를 평가하는 방법의 하나로 주관적 평가척도를 개발하고 이 척도를 사용하여 마직물의 주관적인 태 특성을 살펴보았다. 그리고 KES-FB 시스템을 사용한 객관적인 태를 측정하여 주관적 평가치와 객관적 측정치로부터 태 평가의 산출식을 유도하였다. 실험에 사용된 직물은 혼방률, 밀도, 두께 등이 다양한 암, 저마 그리고 마혼방직물과 한산모시, 중국마, 신합섬 직물 등 총 54종을 사용하였다. 마직물의 주관적 태 평가를 위해 26문항의 형용사쌍으로 구성된 9점의 의미미분척도를 개발하였으며 이 척도를 사용해 주관적 평가를 실시하였다. 또 객관적 평가를 위해 KES-FB 시스템을 통해 역학적 특성치를 구하였다. 주관적 평가를 실시한 결과 마직물의 태에 영향을 미치는 7개의 요인이 추출되었다. 이 요인들은 표면성질, 신축성/드레이프성, 중량감, 강연성, 회복성, 수분특성, 밀도감이었으며, 요인들로 설명되는 누적분산값은 67.18%였다.주관적 평가의 결과와 객관적 평가 결과를 이용해 마직물의 태를 평가하는 산출식을 제시하였다. 태 평가치의 경우 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법과 stepwise 방법, 또 Kawabatark 사용한 순차적 군 회귀법의 세가지 방법의 회귀식 중 16가지 특성치를 모두 넣는 방법의 결정계수가 가장 높았다.

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Comparison of hand, thermal and optical properties of woven fabrics made of triangular and circular shaped filaments (삼각사와 원형사로 제직된 직물의 태, 열적성질 및 광학적 성질의 비교)

  • 심현주;홍경아
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.5 no.3
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    • pp.47-52
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    • 2002
  • The handle of fabrics including tactility and sense of visuality are closely related to the factors governing the preferences of end-users. This study shows the change of mechanical properties, thermal properties and optical properties by comparing two fabrics which are woven with circular shaped filaments and with triangular ones. The fabric mechanical characteristics required for primary hand values were evaluated with the KES-FB system. The mechanical properties measured by KES-FB system shows that fabrics made of circular filaments are greater than those made of triangular ones. The thermal properties measured by KES-F7(Thermo Labo II) system shows that the values of the initial maximum value(qmax) and the thermal conductivity(λ) are higher in the fabric made of triangular shaped ones. When the light rays tall on a surface, the fabric made of triangular filaments shows more lustrous than circular ones.

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Mechanical Properties and Fabric Handle of Hansan Ramie (PartII) (한산모시의 역학적 특성 및 태에 관한 연구(제2보)-푸새효과에 대하여-)

  • 홍지명;유효선
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.22 no.7
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    • pp.862-871
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    • 1998
  • In this study, the effect of sizing on the physical and mechanical characteristics of Hansan ramie was studied. 2 kinds of Hansan ramie were used for this study and one kind of the chinese ramie was also used for comparing with the characteristics of Hansan ramies. The following results were obtained from this experimental study. The wrinkle recovery angle was gradually reduced according to the increasing of the concentration of sizing agent. As the size agent could easily penetrate between the thick yarms, the effect of sizing on the wrinkle recovery angle was evident on the Chinese and Hansan coarse ramie. The result of KES-F system showed that the sizing affected much on the bending properties and shear properties. As the size concentration was increased the shear properties were increased more evidently on the Chinese and Hansan coarse ramie. The result of KES-F system showed that the sizing affected much on the bending properties and shear properties. As the size concentration was increased the shear properties were increased more evidently than the bending properties. The other mechanical properties didn't changed much by sizing. The calculated primary hand value also showed that the ramie became more stiff after sizing.

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A Study on Analysis of the Physical Properties of Domestic and Foreign Sensible Worsted Fabrics - Comparison between subjective and objective hand assessments of the fabric - (국내.외 감성 소모직물의 물성분석에 관한 연구(I) - 주관적 태 평가와 객관적 태 평가 비교 -)

  • Park, Kyung-Soon;Kim, Seung-Jin
    • Science of Emotion and Sensibility
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    • v.10 no.3
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    • pp.299-306
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    • 2007
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze physical properties of foreign famous worsted fabrics to realize improvements in qualities of the domestic men's worsted fabrics and to make an comparison between foreign worsted fabrics and domestic ones. For this purpose, this study carries out both objective and subjective fabric hand measurements using KES-FB system and Blind field test, to evaluate physical properties of worsted fabrics and finally is aiming to make an comparison between the results from the two measurements for enhancing the quality of the domestic worsted fabrics using the 14 specimens of 7 types as worsted fabrics manufactured in Italy, UK and Korea.

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Changes of Physical Properties of Hanji Yarn Blended Fabrics after Fusing (한지사 혼용직물의 접착심 접착 후 역학적 물성 변화)

  • Jee, Ju-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.44 no.1
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    • pp.159-174
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    • 2020
  • We selected 100% cotton fabric, 100% Hanji yarn fabric and two kinds of cotton / Hanji yarn blended fabrics and fused them with three kinds of interlinings in order to examine changes to the physical properties and the post-adhesion physical properties of Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Changes in KES values were examined after fusing. First, EM, B, 2HB, MMD values of Hanji yarn blended fabrics were higher than cotton fabric, and LT, RT, G, 2HG, LC, WC values of cotton fabric were higher than Hanji yarn blended fabrics. Tensile recovery was lowered, bending stiffness was increased, and shear stiffness was lowered when Hanji yarn was mixed. Second, the KES value of LT, B, 2HB, G, 2HG, LC, WC increased after fusing, while the EM, MMD values decreased. SMD was shown to decrease or increase depending on the type of fabric. The adhesive effect on bending stiffness and shear stiffness due to the mixing of Hanji shows a different tendency in the comparison of αB and αG.

Physical Performance of Metallic Jacquard Fabrics (메탈릭 자카드 직물 물리적 성능평가)

  • Kang, Duck-Hee;Lee, Jung-Soon
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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    • v.33 no.1
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    • pp.149-159
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    • 2009
  • The purposes of this study are to evaluate physical performance of metallic Jacquard fabrics, and to contribute to the research and development of the women's suit made of the metallic Jacquard fabrics. First, eight fabrics were woven with two kinds of warp yarns(nylon and rayon) and weft yarn blended with various contents(0, 7, 14, 21%) of metallic yarn. Second, the mechanical properties were measured by using the KES-FB system, and physical properties such as tensile strength, tearing strength, abrasion resistance, drape, pilling, snagging, degree of crease resistance, flexural stiffness, specular gloss, folding endurance and electrostatic propensity were measured. The results were as follows. As the metal fiber content increased, bending, shear, thickness and weight increased, which imply low recovery of wrinkles. It means that metallic Jacquard fabrics enable to use as a memory fabric. 7% metallic Jacquard fabric showed a low value at total hand value, but there was little change. As the metal fiber content increased, tensile strength, tearing strength, drape coefficient, specular gloss and flexural stiffness increased, however the degree of crease resistance, electrostatic propensity and folding endurance decreased. The metallic Jacquard fabrics were excellent in snagging, abrasion resistance and pilling.

특집1

  • Korea Electronics Association
    • Journal of Korean Electronics
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    • v.8 no.10
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    • pp.4-4
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    • 1988
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