• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.22 no.5
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• pp.670-687
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• 2014

This study focused on Jungchimak (coats with side slits) which was typically worn by men in the mid and late Joseon Dynasty. It was done research by examining the case of wearing Jungchimak centering on literature and paintings and analyzing its changes in terms of its form based on the relics that have been found in order to suggest the standard for the evaluation of the period of Jungchimak. Results are as follows. First, men who wore Jungchimak were the king, crown prince and Aristocratic under the official uniform or other robes or as ordinary clothes and shroud. Second, Jungchimak for king was mostly made of Dan (satin damask) and mostly jade green & navy in color, and it commonly used dragon pattern, cloud and treasure pattern, or grape pattern. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for crown prince was Dan & Ju (coarse-finished silk) and puple, green, jade green & navy in color. The fabric used to make Jungchimak for Aristocratic was Ju and indigo or white in color. Third, 251 relics have been announced until now. Most of them were made of silk fabric and had cloud and flower patterns. Fourth, Jungchimak showed changes through time in terms of collar and sleeve shapes, the ratio of armhole to sleeve opening, Geotseop (panel sewn on front opening for overlapping), Dang and Mu (side panel), the ratio of the total length of outer collar to the length of side slits, and the ratio of chest size to the width of lower end.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.9
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• pp.58-76
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• 2010

In this study, the shapes of po worn by military officers who served During the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea(1592-1598) were investigated. Findings of the study can be summarized as follows. Various types of po that military officers usually wore during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea includes jikryeong, dapho, dopo, cheolik, aekjureum, jangeui, jungchimak and bangryeongpo. Out of these types, cheolik and jungchimak were most often used by the officers. Po that were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea as above mentioned is characterized as no difference in length between the front and back of the costume, kalgit and a pair of coat strings which are directly attached to po. The sleeves of the costume are bean chaff-shaped in some cases and just narrowly shaped in other cases. Similarly, the outer seop of po was either double-layered or single-layered. For jikryeong and dapho, mu is usually type of outside wrinkle. For dopo, its rear kit has the inner hem whose right and left edges are usually distant, respectively by 6~16cm, from the back center of the costume. Cheolik and aekjureum usually have either fine or broad pleats. For jangeui and jungchimak, mu is usually trapezoid in shape. Among various types of po which were usually worn by military officers during the period of Japanese Invasion of Korea, most representative are jikryeong from the tombs of Bae Cheon jo, dapho from Shin Yeo Gwan, dopo from general Bak and Bae Cheon Jo, cheolik from Nam Yoo and Cho Gyeong, aekjureum from Shin Yeo Gwan, jangeui from Kim Ham, jungchimak from Bae Cheon jo and bangryeongpo from Cho Gyeong.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.8
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• pp.63-71
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• 2011

The excavated costume of Jangheung Ma's included jeogoris, skirts, and pants, and a jungchimak(중치막), jangot(장옷), cheolrik(철릭), and jikryeong(직령). Most of the items were made of silk and cotton. The clothes for shrouding were plainer than those found in other regions. The method of sewing was mostly broad-stitching, but backstitch, hem tacking and decorative saddle stitching were also used. Unlined clothes were made with on old method of sewing(옛쌈솔), which was used mainly in the early period of the Chosun dynasty. Dating of the excavated costume can be determined by examining the collar of the Korean coat or jacket, the shape and form of sleeve, the size of the sub, and the form of gusset. Straight, diagonal, and broad sleeves were the most commonlyused shapes of sleeve in the middle period of $17^{th}$ century. In the latter period of Chosun, the trend moved towards a single-sub.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.57 no.6 s.115
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• pp.172-183
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• 2007

The purpose of this study is to examine the dress and its ornaments of low-level officials shown in Tamna-Sullyeokdo, the paintings of the inspection tour of Jeju Island. The low-level officials Include low-level soldiers-sungjungun, gichigun, foot soldiers, cavalries, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, najang, and sawon-, musicians, servants, and kisaengs in government employ. 1. Different types of low-level soldiers tended to wear different kinds of clothes that is worn under an outer garment and to wear different coats and trousers depending on an outer garment. That is, sungjunggun, gichigun, foot soldiers, and cavalries were jeonbok over a jeogori and baji. On the other hand, gunroe, ilsu, artillerymen, and najang were houi or jakui over a jeogori and baji. However, Sawon simply were Jeonbok or armer or they wore Cheolik in formal occasions. 2. Musicians wore a jeonlib, a type of hat, decorated with an ear of barley and a red houi over a Jungchimak, a man's outer coat with large sleeves. Musicians wore colorful red clothes in order to add to the amusement during military trainings or banquets. 3. Servants in government employ had their hair in plaits and wore a jeonbok over a Jungchimak or baji and jeogori. However, when they dance during banquets, they were cheolik and jeonlib decored with/without an ear of barley or red flowers. 4. Gisaengs in government employ wore a gache on their head and wonsam, a woman's full dress during big occasions. They, on the other hand, wore a jeogoli and chima for regular occasions.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.49 no.9
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• pp.25-33
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• 2011

The number of Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes that have been discovered is small but includes various kinds of coat. These coats have become important clues when trying to determine styles of coat that were present in the mid-17he composition of the costumes found were various, including unlined, lined, padded and quilted variations. Unlined clothes were sewed using broad-stitching, hemming, half backstitching, and backstitching. The unique sewing style of the 17th century was shown in Ryu Ji Kyung's costumes. Seams on the back of one coat were not connected but rather sewed as a whole because of the width of the cloth. There was a more elaborate sewing style on lined clothes than on unlined clothes, alongside the use of selvage on the reverse of the costumes, marking the face not by using other clothes, but by the sewing line. Because of their to kit types, the width of the sleeves, the presence of a Cheolrik string, the ratio of the upper jacket to the bottom skirt, and the width between the armpits and bottom hems in Jungchimak, Ryu Ji Kyung's clothes can be used as exemplary models of mid-17th century clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.4
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• pp.98-112
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• 2010

This study is on the 18th-century man's clothing excavated from Mr. Kim(1683-1766)'s tomb in Cheongju, Chungbuk in 2003. There are more than 100 pieces of excavated costumes from the tomb of Won-taek Kim. The excavated costumes have the value of genuine materials. Among them, 36 garments in good condition were investigated. As a result, there are several kinds of the excavated coats with different sizes, depending on the type of coats-Simui(深衣), Danryeong(團領), Sagyusam(四揆衫), Daechang, jungchimak(中赤莫), and Sochangui. These different-size coats reveal the degree of ritual; the length of the ritual costume is longer than that of the daily one. We can see two kinds (large and small) of coats, jackets, and pants. The large-size clothing is for the dead, the small size one as daily clothing was used for filling the empty space of the coffin. Among the excavated clothing from Mr. Kim's tomb, clothing for the dead(shroud) is bigger than man's daily costume. Concerning the form, color, and materials of the costumes, clothing for the dead is similar to daily clothing, while there is the difference in their size. The oversized costumes of coats, jackets, and pants are also different in size, matching the structure of clothing.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.58 no.5
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• pp.118-133
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• 2008

The basic costumes of the joseon dynasty such as pants and jackets were not particularly distinctive over the period in comparison to po. The coat that was worn over pants and jacket, however, had different forms in the course of the joseon dynasty. In this paper, I will analyze the changing style of pyeonbokpo, the daily costumes of Joseon man, which were excavated in recent years. Changes in the collar style were the most distinctive of joseon pyeonbokpo such as cheolik, dapho, aekjueum, jikryeong, daechangyeui, jungchimak, and juyeui. Although pyeonbokpo had double collars in the early joseon dynasty, they disappeared in the seventeenth century: a straight line also replaced by a curve for the collar perimeter. Front-adjusting of pyeonbokpo was very deep in the early joseon dynasty; front-adjusting became simple in the late joseon dynasty, resulting in the central positioning of a ribbon. The rectangular form of a gusset(mu) was stitched to the bodice through various pleats. Gusset patterns changed greatly into various forms in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries, along with the ladder gusset form. The long vest(dapho) was half-sleeved and had a deep front adjustment in the early joseon dynasty; however, it did not have collars and sleeves since the eighteenth century. The waist line of cheolik had the ratio of 1.2 to 1 for the bodice to skirt. But the length of skirts grew gradually into the ratios of 1 to 1, 1 to 2, and 1 to 3.8 while the waist line moved upwards to the chest line. Sleeves of all po had a straight form but they gradually developed the tendency to widen towards the wrists. Later, sleeves changed again, having a wide rectangular form starting from the armpits. Cheolik was widely worn in the early joseon dynasty; however, it was worn less in later years. Instead, clothes that had slits such as dopo, daechangeui, and jungchimak were greatly available. These characteristics of the change in men's costumes enable us to measure the time period of excavated findings despite the lack of records for Joseon graves.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.11 no.1
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• pp.133-153
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• 2009

Clothing was excavated when the Bae's clan of Seong-san, Yeong-dong, Chung-buk in Sep. 2, 2004. The tombs that the clothing could be restored were the tombs of Bae Cheon-jo(10th generation) and the tomb of Mrs. Nam of Go-seong, the wife of Bae Sang-gyeong(1lth generation). For identifying the features and methods of sewing used for the clothing of man and woman around Po(coat in Korea in the past) in the 16th to 17th century, this study investigated 12 items from Bae Cheon-jo's tomb(Sibok, Dopo(robe), Jungchimak(outer coat with large sleeves) and Gwa-du and 5 items(Jangok(lady's cloak) and Jungchimak) from Mrs. Nam's tomb of Go-seong. For sewing, broad-stitching, hemming and even-back-stitching were used the most in that order. Furthermore, various kinds of sophisticated stitching including old flat felled seam, decorative saddle stitching and buttonhole stitch, clothing made roughly as a shroud and fabric attached on the clothing were also observed. We may not have many opportunities to understand the change of clothing in Korea from mid 16th century to mid 17th century through the clothing of father-in-law and daughter-in-law in a family. As a result, we will be able to understand the features of sewing in a family and from the 16th century to the 17th century.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.25 no.6
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• pp.847-861
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• 2017

As the excavated costumes from the unknown tomb of the Joseon Dynasty were unearthed, estimating the age of the costumes became very important. This research investigat and estimates the age of the excavated costumes from Couple's Tomb for Lee General in Seosan, Chung-nam. By inspecting and analyzing the costumes, the features can be compared with other similar costumes that have been excavated from other tombs. The result of this study is as follows: First, the period with dopo, cheol-rik, jungchimak, and baji for females among the relics of General Lee can be estimated. For dopo, there are morphometric features such as the shape of moo; for cheol-rik, there is a ratio of top and bottom; for jungchimak, there is a ratio of width of arm and skit and a ratio of side tim, total length, etc. By comparing relics of same period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea to the early 17 century. Second, the period with jangui and jeogori among the relics of Couple's Tomb for General Lee can be estimated. By comparing jangui with the arm and width of sleeves, and by comparing jeogori and the shape of the collar, arm, length, etc., with other relics identical to the period, it can be estimated to be from the late 16 century around the Japanese invasion of Korea, which is a similar date to the one with the husband to the early 17 century.

• Fashion & Textile Research Journal
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.275-285
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• 2006

With these excavated clothes discussed above, the clothing style before and after the Chosun-Japan War from 1592 to 1597 can be summarized as follows. 1) Shroud was a clothes newly made for funeral or usually worn by the deceased. Shroud was mostly a unlined clothes whose adjustment was made in such way its left part was on top of its right one. Yeomeui, a clothes used to wrap up the body of the deceased or fill between the body and the coffin, was usually lined or quilted. Suryeeui was a suit sent by close relatives of the deceased or granted by the court. Mostly padded with cotton or quilted, suryeeui was used only for yeomeui. 2) The term of ching was used to count units of po and suits of trousers and jeogori during dressing the deceased for burial. If trousers and jeogori were not joined into a suit, they were not counted as ching. 3) Aekjueumpo, bangryeongsangeui, three-forked trousers and haengjeon for women were all clothes worn around the war. All these clothes were not worn after the war. 4) Several types of po which were discovered in Daejeon included danryeong, simeui, nansam, jikryeong, cheolik, aekjuempo, changeui and jungchimak for men and jangeui for women. Often, jikryeong, cheolrik, aekjueumpo and bangryeongsangeui were used before the war and changeui and jungchimak since then. 5) The git of jeogori had the style of mokpan git before the war, which was changed into that of dangko git through making the rectangular ege of mokpan git rounded in the 17th century. And jeogori became entirely small sized and the baerae line of sleeve became oblique. 6) In funeral rites of Daejon, simeui and nansam both of which were symbols of Confucian scholars, instead of official uniforms, were used as funeral garments. This suggests that funeral rites of Daejeon considerably reflected academic traditions of the Giho school meaning groups of scholars representing the region.