• Title/Summary/Keyword: Joseon Period

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A Study on the Practice of Hapbong found in the Late Joseon Dynasty - Focusing on Men's Official Uniforms & Women's Formal Wear - (조선 후기 복식에 나타난 합봉(合縫)현상에 관한 연구- 남자 공복(公服)과 여자 예복(禮服)을 중심으로 -)

  • Ku, Nam-Ok
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.9
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    • pp.1-17
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    • 2008
  • One of features of fashion in Joseon period is culture of overlapping of several clothes. This culture appeared with Hapbong(合縫:sewing of several clothes as one) at late Joseon period and developed into simpler and more practical fashion culture. Hapbong is mainly identified at men's official uniform such as Jaebok(祭服), Jobok(朝服), Kwanbok(官福), Gugunbok(具軍服), and women's formal dress such as Wonsam(圓衫) and Dangeui(唐衣) which formed several clothes get to be a set. Such fashion was designed to maintain dignity and power while simple to wear. And It has the trace of overlapping visually on the collar, sleeve, breast-tie and others. Hapbong is attributable to thoughts of practical science, post-toadyism, modernization, renovated the system of clothing, and advanced sewing technique.

A Study on Avant-Garde Fine Art during the period of Japanese Colonial Rule of Korea, centering on 'Munjang' (a literary magazine) (일제강점기 '전위미술론'의 전통관 연구 - '문장(文章)' 그룹을 중심으로)

  • Park, Ca-Rey
    • The Journal of Art Theory & Practice
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    • no.4
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    • pp.57-76
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    • 2006
  • From the late 1920s to the 1930s, Korea's fine art community focused on traditional viewpoints as their main topic. The traditional viewpoints were discussed mainly by Korean students studying in Japan, especially oil painters. Such discussions on tradition can be divided into two separate halves, namely the pre- and post-Sino-Japanese War (1937) periods. Before the war, the modernists among Korea's fine art community tried to gain a fuller understanding of contemporary Western modern art, namely, expressionism, futurism, surrealism, and so forth, on the basis of Orientalism, and borrow from these schools' in order to create their own works. Furthermore, proponents of Joseon's avant-garde fine arts and artists of the pro-fine art school triggered debate on the traditional viewpoints. After the Sino-Japanese War, these artists continued to embrace Western modern art on the basis of Orientalism. However, since Western modern fine art was regressing into Oriental fine art during this period, Korean artists did not need to research Western modern fine art, but sought to study Joseon's classics and create Joseon's own avant- garde fine art in a movement led by the Munjang group. This research reviews the traditional view espoused by the Munjang group, which represented the avant-garde fine art movement of the post-war period. Advocating Joseon's own current of avant-garde fine art through the Munjang literary magazine, Gil Jin - seop, Kim Yong-jun and others accepted the Japanese fine art community's methodology for the restoration of classicism, but refused Orientalism as an ideology, and attempted to renew their perception of Joseon tradition. The advocation of the restoration of classicism by Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun appears to be similar to that of the Yasuda Yojuro-style restoration of classicism. However, Gil Jin-seop and Kim Yong-jun did not seek their sources of classicism from the Three-Kingdoms and Unified Silla periods, which Japan had promoted as a symbol of unity among the Joseon people; instead they sought classicism from the Joseon fine art which the Japanese had criticized as a hotbed of decadence. It was the Joseon period that the Munjang group chose as classicism when Japan was upholding Fascism as a contemporary extremism, and when Hangeul (Korean writing system) was banned from schools. The group highly evaluated literature written in the style of women, especially women's writings on the royal court, as represented by Hanjungnok (A Story of Sorrowful Days). In the area of fine art, the group renewed the evaluation of not only literary paintings, but also of the authentic landscape paintings refused by, and the values of the Chusa school criticized as decadent by, the colonial bureaucratic artists, there by making great progress in promoting the traditional viewpoint. Kim Yong-jun embraced a painting philosophy based on the painting techniques of Sasaeng (sketching), because he paid keen attention to the tradition of literary paintings, authentic landscape paintings and genre paintings. The literary painting theory of the 20th century, which was highly developed, could naturally shed both the colonial historical viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as heteronomical, and the traditional viewpoint which regarded Joseon fine art as decadent. As such, the Munjang group was able to embrace the Joseon period as the source of classicism amid the prevalent colonial historical viewpoint, presumably as it had accumulated first-hand experience in appreciating curios of paintings and calligraphic works, instead of taking a logical approach. Kim Yong-jun, in his fine art theory, defined artistic forms as the expression of mind, and noted that such an artistic mind could be attained by the appreciation of nature and life. This is because, for the Munjang group, the experience of appreciating nature and life begins with the appreciation of curios of paintings and calligraphic works. Furthermore, for the members of the Munjang group, who were purists who valued artistic style, the concept of individuality presumably was an engine that protected them from falling into the then totalitarian world view represented by the Nishita philosophy. Such a 20th century literary painting theory espoused by the Munjang group concurred with the contemporary traditional viewpoint spearheaded by Oh Se-chang in the 1910s. This theory had a great influence on South and North Korea's fine art theories and circles through the Fine Art College of Seoul National University and Pyongyang Fine Art School in the wake of Korea's liberation. In this sense, the significance of the theory should be re-evaluated.

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The Symbolic Meaning of the 'Tiger' in Minhwa and its 'Social Contexts' in Joseon Period (조선시대 호랑이 민화의 동물 상징 및 그 사회적 맥락)

  • Eom So-Yeon
    • Journal of Science of Art and Design
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    • v.6
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    • pp.33-59
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to analyze the symbolic meaning of the Tiger in Korean Folk Paintings, Minhwa, (hereafter, Minhwa) connected to its social contexts in Joseon period. Thinking of the Tiger Minhwa as a 'visual language' and regard the Tiger as a 'visual signifier' as well as the united-signifiers such as a Korean magpie, pine tree and so on in Minhwa. This research is to analyze these signifieds, 'Signified', what we say in this paper, have composed its symbolic meaning related to the social 'ideological complexes' and collective consciousness during Joseon period. In a word, the characteristic of the Tiger signifier has changed and spread out from the ideal trend to a worldly one. Since the late Joseon period, the change of the social contexts was, because of the civil classes who recognized the limitation of the Sung Confucianism(the doctrines of $Chi-Tz\={u}$), the predominated ideology of that time. To get rid of their uneasiness, they brought the Shamanism, Taoism and Buddhism at the front which were usually the lower class ideology or belief and tried to construct the collective consciousness and safety of their real lives. Therefore, the trend of this 'common conceptualization' show us the positiveness and flexibility to the Tiger signifier through the variation, appropriation and producing signifier. Moreover, even to the same Tiger, there were various meanings and most of them were concentrated in the meanings as follows ; Beoksa(in Korean term is to drive away evil spirits) and Gilsang, which is the good omen of a luck. All these were based on the value of 'this world'. In conclusion, through this research, the concept of the Tiger as a apotheosis has lowered its statutes and being secularized.

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A Bibliographical Study on the Metal Type Buddhist Book Editions during the Joseon Dynasty Period (조선시대 금속활자본 불교서적의 서지적 연구)

  • Song, Il-Gie;Jung, Wang-Kun
    • Journal of the Korean Society for Library and Information Science
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    • v.49 no.1
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    • pp.223-246
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    • 2015
  • This study examined the characteristics of Buddhist books printed using metal type during the Joseon Dynasty period from a bibliographical perspective. It was found that there are 36 kinds of Buddhist books published using metal type during the Joseon Dynasty period that currently exist. In terms of the types used for publication, there were 9 kinds of printed editions by Gapinja, 13 kinds of printed editions by Eulhaeja, 2 kinds of printed editions by Jeongchukja, 3 kinds of printed editions by Eulyuja and 9 kinds of printed editions by Jeonsaja. Among them, The Buddhist books printed using Eulhaeja were 36 % of total with the highest quantity of 13 kinds. In terms of periods of publication, it was found that 27 kinds and 9 kinds of Buddhists books were published respectively in the first and latter parts of Joseon Dynasty periods. Among them, there were 19 kinds of metal type book editions published during the King Sejo period that occupied 70% of total. It appears that such phenomenon was a result of King Sejo's abnormal enthronement and Buddhism-friendly tendency.

A Study on Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the End of the Joseon Period (조선 말기 사ㆍ라에 관한 연구)

  • 이은진;조효숙
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.53 no.8
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    • pp.121-135
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    • 2003
  • The purpose of this study is to suggest a theoretical basis to name Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) remains properly by comparing and analyzing the name, usage, value, length and width of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) recorded on documents made at the end period of Joseon. The features of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) at the end of the Joseon Period are as follows. 1. The kinds of Sa(紗) are about 80, those of Ra(羅) are about 12, and those of Sa(紗) are significantly more than those of Ra(羅). In regard to the aspect of patterns, there were about 20 types of patterns in the case of Sa(紗), but no specific pattern for Ra(羅). 2. Some newly revealed patterns in the case of Sa (紗) are as follows. Baek -bok-mun(백복문) was a pattern full of ‘bats(박쥐[복])’, and Baek-jeop-mun(백접문) was a pattern full of ‘butterflies(나비[蝶])’ Jeop-mun(접문) was classified into ‘butterfly patterns(나비문[접문])’ and ‘traditional window flame patterns(창살문[접문])‘. 3. When considering the usages of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), Sa(紗) was used for various detailed purposes according to their kinds and patterns, but Ra(羅) was mostly used for underwear. The most commonly used Sa(紗) was the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). On the contrary, the Go-sa type(庫紗類) was significantly less used than the Gab-sa type(甲紗類). However, it must have been of relatively high quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for outer garments. In addition, the Gung-sa type(宮紗類) was the best quality Sa(紗), shown by the fact that it was used for court dress and official uniforms in the royal court. 4. Sa(紗) and Ra(羅) whose features have been examined we Gapsa(甲紗), Sun-in (純仁), Gosa(庫紗), Gwansa(官紗), Jusa(走紗), Eunjosa(은조사), Gwangsa(廣紗), Waesa(倭紗), Dorisa(도리사), Gong-yangsa(공양사), Rasa(羅紗), Danghangra(唐亢羅), Yanghangra(洋亢羅), Yunjura(윤주라), Eunra(銀羅), Jeohangra(저항라), Chura(秋羅). 5. Regarding the values of Sa(紗) and Ra(羅), they were high quality textures and its length and width of 1 Pil(疋), a roll of cloth, were not subdivided in detail such as in the case of plain weaved silks(平絹).

Present Situations of the Remaining Korean Armors and Helmets of Joseon Dynasty and their Periodization for A Better Appraisal (조선시대 갑주 유물의 감정을 위한 현황파악과 시대구분)

  • Park, Ga-Young
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.166-177
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    • 2008
  • This is a basic study of the remaining armors and helmets of the Joseon period for our better understanding and better maintenance of them. For the purpose, this paper shall try to show the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period in Korea, and their typical classification for periodization, and the nomenclature about them. First, to oversee the present situations of the remaining armor and helmets of the period, study was done about the kinds of armors and helmets, their users, and their possessors today. It was found that the exact dates and users were unclear for many cases of the armors and helmets under our consideration. It is understandable when we consider many of them were exported to foreign countries, instead of being well-preserved in Korea upon excavations. Secondly, for their typical classifications for periodization, types were delineated from the pictures and drawings in reference to the periodical changes of them from Korean historical records. The result was that we can find out 4 types of armors, and 3 types of helmets, with their combinations. This shall be usefully applied for the better periodization of the remaining items. Thirdly, we come to the problem of naming of the remaining armors and helmets. For better nomenclature of the remains all the names of the armors and helmets for the Joseon period are collected from historical literature, to figure out some principles of nomenclature for them. I found some discrepancies with the present names of them, and my propositions are suggested to replace them.

The Study on the Origin and Transition of Sword Dancing Costumes (검무(劍舞) 복식(服飾)의 연원과 변천양상에 관한 연구)

  • Yoon, Ji-Won
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.57 no.7
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    • pp.84-97
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    • 2007
  • Dancing with weapons existed spontaneously when war and hunting were common, and sword dancing, as a dance for banquets, developed and changed in various forms. In Korea, sword dancing was performed from the Three Dynasty Period, and in Joseon Dynasty, it was performed as court ceremony. The origin of the sword dancing, that has been performed from the Joseon Dynasty until now, and costumes for sword dancing isn't accurate. The purpose of this study is to analyze the sword dancing costume of China, Korea's neighboring country, and that of Korea in the same period, and to find out the process of wearing military uniform: Jun-mo, Jeo-go-ri, Chi-ma, Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae, being settled as the sword dancing costumes of Korea in late Joseon Dynasty. In China, sword dancing became famous in Han Dynasty, and in Tang Dynasty, it was the meridian of sword dancing with the most magnificent form. After the Song Dynasty, the sword dancing fades away. In Korea, the sword dancing started as a mask dancing of children that Hwa-rang(bravery youth) in Shilla Dynasty started. After the Unified Shiila Period, the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty spread to Korea, with active interchange between the two countries. After the Corea Dynasty, the mask dancing of children faded and the sword dancing of Tang Dynasty changes into Korean form. It was incorporated into the court ceremony after the mid-period of Joseon Dynasty, and the costumes were settled as the military uniform, which are Gwae-ja, and Jun-dae on top of Chi-ma, and Jeo-go-ri, and Jun-moon the head.

Morphology of Seok in the Great Han Empire Period and the Origin of the Korean Seok's Morphological Characteristics (대한제국시대 석(舃)의 고찰 및 한국 석의 형태적 특징의 유래)

  • Choi, Yeon-Woo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.63 no.8
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    • pp.125-142
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    • 2013
  • Soek(Xi) was the highest ranked shoe that was worn with the primary formal dress in East Asian countries including ancient Korea and China. This article examined Joseon's Seok as discussed in previous studies, and it explored factors such as the wearers' status, wearing situations, its morphology, its materials, and its colors in the Great Han Empire period (1897~1910), and then extracted three morphological characteristics of the Korean Seok to examine its origin. The results of the study are as follows. For women, the Seok in the Great Han Empire period was worn with Won-sam(圓衫) and No-eui(露衣) as well as Jeok-eui(翟衣), and hence its range of wearing was extensive. Also, red Seok was worn with deep red colored Dae-sam(大衫)-styled Jeok-eui in the Joseon period(1392~1897), and blue Seok with deep blue Jeok-eui in the Great Han Empire period. This suggests the possibility that wearing of deep blue Jeok-eui occurred after 1906 in terms of the use of blue Seok. As for its morphology, its leg-less form was maintained into the late Joseon period, and there were no great changes in its name. The characteristics of the Korean Seok's morphological structure consisted of a shoe leg, the wood-less bottom and pearl ornament. As a result of the examination of the origin of those characteristics, it has been clarified that the form in which Gu, Eok, Jun(純), are attached in the structure with a shoe leg originated from the combination of Hwa(靴) and Li(履) after the two types of shoes were alternately worn in the Song (宋) period. Also, it was confirmed that the woodless bottom appeared between the periods from Wei Jin Northern and Southern Dynasties(魏晉南北朝) to Sui(隋), and the pearl ornament occurred in the Jin(金) period.

Joseons Badge System for Military Ranks and Practices (조선시대 무관의 길짐승흉배제도와 실제)

  • Lee, Eun-Joo
    • Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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    • v.58 no.5
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    • pp.102-117
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    • 2008
  • This study shows the badge system for military officials of Joseon dynasty. The badge system for military officials of the 15th century consists of rank badges with tiger and leopard for the first and second ranks and rank badges with bear for the third rank. According to the code of laws, military officials are supposed to wear the rank badges with four different kinds of animals in Joseon dynasty. However, the badge system shown in the code of laws sometimes does not match with the badges in practices. Based on the literature, remaining badges and the badges in portraits, six different kinds of badges with animals are found : First, rank badges with tiger and leopard were used until the late 16th century. Second, rank badges with tiger were found in the period between the early 17th century and the latter 18th century. Third, rank badges with Haechi were found in the early 17th century. Fourth, rank badges with lions can be found in remains of the mid 17th century, the literature and the portrait of the late 18th century. Finally, the rank badges with double leopards or with single leopard were found from a portrait dated the late of 18th century to the last period of Joseon dynasty.

A Study on the Medical Reference Books Used in the Medical Compilations of the Joseon Dynasty (조선조 의학유서 편찬에 사용된 참고의서 고찰)

  • Ahn, Sang-Woo
    • The Journal of Korean Medical History
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    • v.33 no.2
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    • pp.105-127
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    • 2020
  • The three major medical compilations of the Joseon Dynasty, Hyangyak-jipseongbang, Uibang-yuchwi, and Dongui-bogam, directly cited a total of 376 kinds of medical books. Among them, 11 medical books were commonly referred: Gyeongheom-yangbang, Deukyobang, Saminbang, Seonmyeongnon, Seongje-chongnok, Seonghyebang, Eoui-chwaryo, Yeongnyu-geombang, Wisaeng-bogam, Cheongeumbang, and Tangaek-boncho. Most of them were medical classics and formularies representing the period from the Song to the early Ming Dynasties, which most likely influenced the establishment of Joseon's medical tradition throughout the Joseon Dynasty. The reason why the majority of the medical reference books was formularies seems to be that prescription practices and the use of medicinals value knowledge with accumulated experience over a long period, whereas medical ideas and doctrines change with time. Besides, except for Eoui-chwaryo compiled in the Goryeo Dynasty, the three significant compilations referred to Chinese medical books, which indicates that the compilers made efforts to accommodate the newly introduced foreign knowledge. At the same time, the former compilations, Hyangyak-jipseongbang and Uibang-yuchwi, later appeared as primary references in Dongui-bogam's Medical Formularies of Successive Generations. However, in order to avoid overlapping the same contents, the compilers tried to form a differentiated version by extracting only the unique contents.