• 헤리티지:역사와 과학
• /
• 제55권2호
• /
• pp.146-165
• /
• 2022

이 연구는 2021년 경북 유형문화재 <상주 전식 조복 및 공예품 일괄>로 지정된 유물 중 전식(全湜, 1563~1642)의 조복 구성물인 3점(의·상·대대)의 유물을 17~18세기 5건(신경유, 권우, 화산군 이연, 밀창군 이직, 이익정)의 출토 조복 구성물과 문헌자료를 비교하면서 유물의 조형적 특징과 제도와의 차이점을 밝히고자 함에 목적을 두었다. 전식의 조복 구성물 3점은 색상을 확인할 수 있는 최고(最古)의 조복 유물이라는 점에서 사료적 가치가 크다. 붉은 색 능직물로 제작한 상의(上衣)는 아쉽게도 가선이 소실된 상태이지만 흔적이 남아 있는 부분에 대해 기록이나 초상화 등의 자료에 근거하여 흑색 가선[黑緣]을 추측할 수 있었다. 그리고 흑선과 바탕 옷감 사이에 끼우는 흰 장식선은 아직 사용되지 않았음을 확인하였다. 하상(下裳)은 전3폭 후4폭 중 전3폭과 후1폭만 남은 상태이다. 그러나 후4폭의 형태를 유추할 수는 있었다. 주름 흔적으로 볼 때 허리 부분에만 주름을 잡았음을 알 수 있었다. 18세기의 밀창군, 이익정 묘 조복 상은 허리말기에 간격을 두고 연결되어 있으나 신경유, 권우, 화산군 이연 묘 조복 상 등 17세기 조복 상은 전상 아래로 후상이 겹쳐 연결되어 있는 것으로 볼 때 전식의 조복 상 역시 전상 아래에 5cm 전후로 후상을 겹쳐 연결하였을 것으로 추정할 수 있었다. 화산군 이연(李渷, 1647~1702) 이후 흑선과 바탕과의 사이에 백색 장식선을 끼운 뒤 허리부분에서 밑단까지 주름을 잡은 형태였다. 대대는(大帶)는 '경(冂)' 모양인데 소색(素色)의 주(紬)에 녹색 문사(紋紗) 선을 둘러 긴 띠를 만든 후 모서리를 접어 요(腰)와 신(紳)을 만들었다. 18세기 밀창군과 이익정, 정휘량의 조복본 초상화에서 볼 수 있는 대대의 색상과 일치하였다. 18세기 초 화산군 이연 묘 대대 이후는 요와 신 부분을 따로 재단하여 이은 형태였으나 전식의 대대를 포함한 17세기 신경유 묘, 권우 묘의 대대는 긴 띠를 접어 요와 신을 만들었음을 알 수 있었다. 그리고 허리에 매기 위해 양 끝에 가는 끈을 달았다. 전식의 조복 유물은 색상이나 형태면에서 17세기 조복제도를 구체적으로 반영한 것으로 평가할 수 있으며 『국조오례의 서례』·『경국대전』조복제도의간략하거나부정확한기록을보완해주는사료로서의중요한가치를지니고있다고하겠다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제21권2호
• /
• pp.75-94
• /
• 2019

The Joseon Tongsinsa Festival has been held annually in May in Busan. It reenacts the procession of the Joseon Tongsinsa that the Joseon Government delegated to Japan four times in the 18th century. In the most important situation during the meandering period, three envoys (Jeongsa, Busa, Jongsagwan) who led the Joseon Tongsinsa, wore Jobok, but at the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival, the three envoys are wearing Jobok, which are not historically accurate. The Jobok called Geumgwan Jobok and were comprised of Yanggwan, Eui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Su, Pumdae, Daedae, Paeok, Hall, Mal, and Hwa. These were ranked from first class to ninth class by personal ornamentation such as Yanggwan, Su, Pumdae, Paeok. So, this study is focused on ascertaining the Jobok of the 18th century for the three envoys who were ranked third grade. This study is based on literature, artifacts, and portraits that can depict the 18th century Jobok including all components. It was based on The 7th Korean Human Body Survey Final Report (2015) in order to produce all components of the Jobok of the modern males in their 50s who are playing the role of the three envoys in the Joseon Tongsinsa Festival.

• 한국의류학회지
• /
• 제40권5호
• /
• pp.801-814
• /
• 2016

This study uses the "Sejong chronicles" ritual manual to investigate the movements and roles of provincial governors during the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait, the official uniforms of the provincial governors in their roles, and the characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the early Joseon Dynasty. The results of this study are as follows. Provincial governors who participated in the enshrinement rituals of the royal portrait were governors 'en route' and governors 'in destination'. The movements of the governor 'en route' followed the provincial borders, official residences, and neighboring provincial borders. The movements of the governor 'in destination' followed the provincial borders, the official residence, and jinjeon. The roles of the governors included the welcoming ceremony, the bow-down ceremony, the front guard, and the farewell ceremony. The governors 'en route' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and a Sibok in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The governor 'in destination' wore Jobok in the welcome ceremony, and Jobok (or Sibok if Jobok was not available) in the bow-down ceremony before the farewell. The characteristics of the official uniforms system for local governors in the Joseon Dynasty were as follows. First, the governors wore different uniforms depending on the importance of the rituals in the early Joseon Dynasty. Second, the names of official uniforms Sang-bok and Si-bok were used interchangeably in the early Joseon Dynasty. Third, local governors were allowed to wear Sangbok (or Sibok) instead of Jobok.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
• /
• 제16권4호
• /
• pp.49-62
• /
• 2014

This study is intended to historical research the Jebok(ritual robes) of Jirisan Namakje. Joseon Dynasty established Five Manners as a country-ruling policy on the basis of Confucianism, the religious clothes-wearing method has been established through Sejong Silok Five Manners and the ritual robes system of all the government officials has been handed down to the end of Joseon Dynasty. The ritual robes of all the government officials was worn at the timed of the religious ceremony included ritual manners, and ritual robes are composed of Yanggwan, Ui, Sang, Jungdan, Peasul, Hwan, Wu(a cord, a leather belt, a belt, jade, a mace, Bangsimgokryeong, Mal, Ri, etc., and the rank was classified by the number of the veritical line of Ynaggwan, a leather belt, Hwan, Wu and jade and typeof a mace. "Jongmyouigwe" during the reign of king Sukjong described exactly the Uicha and textile of the ritual robes at that time, the textile Ui used Heukju as same as "Jegiakgidogamuigwe", and jade was used only in case of the first rank ritual official and other government officials did not wear jase. Also, it was revealed that all officials used a wooden mace, and in case of Husu, the first rank ritual official used Jikseong and other official used a picture.

• 복식
• /
• 제4권
• /
• pp.87-114
• /
• 1981

A costume reveals the social characteristics of the era in which it is worn, thus we can say that the history of change of the costume is the history of change of the living culture of the era. Since the Three States era, the costume structure of this country had been affected by the costume system of the China's historical dynasties in the form of the grant therefrom because of geographical conditions, which affection was conspicuous for the bureaucrat class, particularly including but not limited to the Kings' familities. Such a grant of the costume for the bureaucrat class (i.e., official uniform) was first given by the Dang-dynasty at the age of Queen Jinduck, the 28th of the Shilla-dynasty. Since then, the costume for the bureaucrats had consecutively been affected as the ages had gone from the unified Shilla, to the Koryo and to the Yi-dynasty. As the full costumes officially used by government officials (generally called "Baek Gwan") in the Yidynasty, there existed Jo-bok, Gong-bok and Sang-bok. Of such official costumes, Gong-bok was worn at the time of conducting official affairs of the dynasty, making a respectful visit for the expression of thanks or meeting diplomatic missions of foreign countries. It appears no study was made yet with regard to the Gong-bok while the studies on the Jo-bok and the Sangbok were made. Therefore, this article is, by rendering a study and research on the styles of costumes of civil servants' stone images erected at the Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty, to help the persons concerned understand the Gong-bok, one of the official costume for Baek Kwan of that age and further purports to specifically identify the styles and changes of the Gong-bok, worn by Baek Gwan during the Yi-dynasty, consisting of the Bok-doo (a hat, four angled and two storied with flat top), Po (gown), Dae (belt), and Hol (small and thin plate which was officially held by the government officials in hand, showing the courtesy to and writing brief memorandums before the King) and Hwa (shoes). For that purpose, I investigated by actually visiting the tombs of the Kings of the Yi-dynasty including the Geonwon-neung, the tomb of the first King Tae-jo and the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong as well as the tombs of the lawful wives and concubines of various Kings, totalling 29 tombs and made reference to relevant books and records. Pursuant. to this study, of the 29 Kings' tombs the costume styles of civil servants' stone images erected at the 26 Kings' tombs are those of Gong-bok for Baek-gwan of the Yi-dynasty wearing Bok-doo as a hat and Ban-ryeong or Dan-ryenog Po as a gown with Dae, holding Hol in hand and wearing shoes. Other than those of the 26 tombs, the costume styles of the Ryu-neung, the tomb of the Moon-jo who was the first son of 23rd King Soon-jo and given the King's title after he died and of the You-neung, the tomb of the 27th King Soon-jong are those of Jobok with Yang-gwan (a sort of hat having stripes erected, which is different from the Bok-doo), and that of the Hong-neung, the tomb of the 26th King Go-jong shows an exceptional one wearing Yang-gwan and Ban-ryeong Po ; these costume styles other than Gongbok remain as the subject for further study. Gong-bok which is the costume style of civil servants' stone images of most of the Kings' tombs had not been changed in its basic structure for about 500 years of the Yi-dynasty and Koryo categorized by the class of officials pursuant to the color of Po and materials of Dae and Hol. Summary of this costume style follows: (1) Gwan-mo (hat). The Gwan-mo style of civil servants' stone images of the 26 Kings' tombs, other than Ryu-neung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have Yang-gwan, out of the 29 Kings' tombs of the Yi-dynasty reveals the Bok-doo with four angled top, having fore-part and back-part divided. Back part of the Bok-doo is double the fore-part in height. The expression of the Gak (wings of the Bokdoo) varies: the Gyo-gak Bok-doo in that the Gaks, roundly arisen to the direction of the top, are clossed each other (tombs of the Kings Tae-jong), the downward style Jeon-gak Bok-doo in that soft Gaks are hanged on the shoulders (tombs of the Kings Joong-jong and Seong-jong) and another types of Jeon-gak Bok-doo having Gaks which arearisen steeply or roundly to the direction of top and the end of which are treated in a rounded or straight line form. At the lower edge one protrusive line distinctly reveals. Exceptionally, there reveals 11 Yang-gwan (gwan having 11 stripes erected) at the Ryu-neung of the King Moon-jo, 9 Yang-gwan at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong and 11 Yang-gwan at the You-neung of the King Soon-jong; noting that the Yang-gwan of Baek Kwan, granted by the Myeong-dynasty of the China during the Yi-dynasty, was in the shape of 5 Yang-gwan for the first Poom (class) based on the principle of "Yideung Chaegang" (gradual degrading for secondary level), the above-mentioned Yang-gwans are very contrary to the principle and I do not touch such issue in this study, leaving for further study. (2) Po (gown). (a) Git (collar). Collar style of Po was the Ban-ryeong (round collar) having small neck-line in the early stage and was changed to the Dan-ryeong (round collar having deep neck-line) in the middle of the: dynasty. In the Dan-ryeong style of the middle era (shown at the tomb of the King Young-jo); a, thin line such as bias is shown around the internal side edge and the width of collar became wide a little. It is particularly noted that the Ryu-neung established in the middle stage and the You-neung in the later stage show civil servants in Jo-bok with the the Jikryeong (straight collar) Po and in case of the Hong-neung, the Hong-neung, the tomb of the King Go-jong, civil servants, although they wear Yang-gwan, are in the Ban-ryeong Po with Hoo-soo (back embroidery) and Dae and wear shoes as used in the Jo-bok style. As I could not make clear the theoretical basis of why the civil servants' costume styles revealed, at these tombs of the Kings are different from those of other tombs, I left this issue for further study. It is also noted that all the civil servants' stone images show the shape of triangled collar which is revealed over the Godae-git of Po. This triangled collar, I believe, would be the collar of the Cheomri which was worn in the middle of the Po and the underwear, (b) Sleeve. The sleeve was in the Gwan-soo (wide sleeve) style. having the width of over 100 centimeter from the early stage to the later stage arid in the Doo-ri sleeve style having the edge slightly rounded and we can recognize that it was the long sleeve in view of block fold shaped protrusive line, expressed on the arms. At the age of the King Young-jo, the sleeve-end became slightly narrow and as a result, the lower line of the sleeve were shaped curved. We can see another shape of narrow sleeve inside the wide sleeve-end, which should be the sleeve of the Cheom-ri worn under the Gong-bok. (c) Moo. The Moo revealed on the Po of civil servants' stone images at the age of the King Sook-jong' coming to the middle era. Initially the top of the Moo was expressed flat but the Moo was gradually changed to the triangled shape with the acute top. In certain cases, top or lower part of the Moo are not reveald because of wear and tear. (d) Yeomim. Yeomim (folding) of the Po was first expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Won-neung, the tomb of the King Young-jo and we can seemore delicate expression of the Yeomim and Goreum (stripe folding and fixing the lapel of the Po) at the tomb of the Jeongseong-wanghoo, the wife of the King Young-jo, At the age of the King Soon-jo, we can see the shape of Goreum similar to a string rather than the Goreum and the upper part of the Goreum which fixes Yeomim was expressed on the right sleeve. (3) Dae. Dae fixed on the Po was placed half of the length of Po from the shoulders in the early stage. Thereafter, at the age of the King Hyeon-jong it was shown on the slightly upper part. placed around one third of the length of Po. With regard to the design of Dae, all the civil servants' stone images of the Kings' tombs other than those of the Geonwon-neung of the King Tae-jo show single or double protrusive line expressed at the edge of Dae and in the middle of such lines, cloud pattern, dangcho (a grass) pattern, chrysanthemum pattern or other various types of flowery patterns were designed. Remaining portion of the waist Dae was hanged up on the back, which was initially expressed as directed from the left to the right but thereafter expressed. without orderly fashion,. to the direction of the left from the right and vice versa, Dae was in the shape of Yaja Dae. In this regard, an issue of when or where such a disorderly fashion of the direction of the remaining portion of waist Dae was originated is also presented to be clarified. In case of the Ryuneung, Hong-neung and You-neung which have civil servants' stone images wearing exceptional costume (Jo-bok), waist Dae of the Ryu-neung and Hong-neung are designed in the mixture of dual cranes pattern, cosecutive beaded pattern and chrvsenthemum pattern and that of You-neung is designed in cloud pattern. (4) Hol. Although materials of the Hol held in hand of civil servants' stone images are not identifiable, those should be the ivory Hol as all the Baek Gwan's erected as stone images should be high class officials. In the styles, no significant changes were found, however the Hol's expressed on civil servants' stone images of the Yi-dynasty were shaped in round top and angled bottom or round top and bottom. Parcicularly, at the age of the King Young-jo the Hol was expressed in the peculiar type with four angles all cut off. (5) Hwa (shoes). As the shoes expressed on civil servants' stone images are covered with the lower edges of the Po, the styles thereof are not exactly identifiable. However, reading the statement "black leather shoes for the first class (1 Poom) to ninth class (9 Poom)," recorded in the Gyeongkook Daejon, we can believe that the shoes were worn. As the age went on, the front tips of the shoes were soared and particularly, at the Hong-neung of the King Go-jong the shoes were obviously expressed with modern sense as the country were civilized.