• Journal of Fashion Business
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• v.8 no.4
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• pp.22-32
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• 2004

The purpose of this research is to know the pattern of Hanbok Jegory with measuring Jegory and studying manufacturing method of the Jegory used currently. It is a purpose to find constitutional problem caused by the character of the bending somatotype and, to study the standard model of the Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age, by comparison of this fitness for bending-somatotyped women in old age. The results obtained are as follows; 1. The kinds of measurements considered in manufacturing process are Hwajang Length, Bust girth, and the skirt length. The length of Jegory and width of Neck are also considered. 2. Manufacturers consider somatotype the most important thing when they make Jegory for women in old age. Front length, Back length and Width of the Jegory are considered secondly important. 3. The results of the comparison show that the Standard Hanbok drafting method is not suitable for drafting Jegory for bending somatotyped women in old age. 4. The suitability test for the model designed by the above methods shows that it fits in bending somatotyped women in old age better than standard drafting method. The results show the superiority of the above methods especially in the breast width, the Godae length, and the adaptedness to the body.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.56 no.7 s.106
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• pp.17-30
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• 2006

The objectives of this study are to research into the traditional costume succession in south and north korea, and to compare similarity and difference of kinds, names, drawing of Jegory. Conclusions are described as follows: 1. In sort of Jegory, south and north korea have same kind of Jegory according to traditional form. But in making method, south korea have pursued various style from traditional type to modern type, north korea have maintained just simple and practical basic style. 2. South and north korea have used same or similar names for the basic part of Jegory. But north korea has made new names for constructional needs, so many differences were shown in the name of details. 3. In drawing of Jegory, north korea has hold traditional method and then tried to seek for rational, scientific technique. Also, due to the influence of south korea that advanced in modern aesthetic, drawing of Jegory in north korea were changed to similar.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.12 no.1 s.26
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• pp.37-43
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• 1988

The purpose of this study is to compare Jegory with Simii, and to understand the construction of Jegory, assuming that Jegory is related to Simii system. The results obtained are as follows ; 1. Teie-ku-li was the first record among the name of Jegory in literature, was called about A.D. 1408. 2, When Jegory and Simii were cut, front-back width and sleeve length standarded on the width of cloth. 3. The cutting of Jegory disposed to seperate right and left width, to connect front and back width up to the middle term of Chosen Dynasty Period. 4. The sewing order of the Simii was Dungsol-Jindong-Baerae-Sougu. The sewing order of the Jegory in $\ulcorner$ The Book of Chosen sewing$\lrcorner$ was Shoulder-Jindong-Baerae-Sup-Dungsol-Kit and in literature of 1960's it was similar to Simii. 5. The lined clothes in $\ulcorner$The Book of Chosen Sewing$\lrcorner$ was sewn to put the inside in the surface, different from the literature of 1960's. 6. In Chosen Dynasty Period the shape of Simii depended on $\ulcorner$Moon Kong Ka Rye$\lrcorner$, but it was changed to similar to Jegory in the latter term. 7. The empty void in Jegory offers usefulness. It relates to Oriental negativism that yin is more useful than yang.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.59 no.5
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• pp.135-151
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• 2009

This study aims to estimate the chronical year of 'Euiin'-Park's clothes excavated costumes from the tomb of 'Lady Euiim-Park's which has been stocked in Gyeonggi Provincial Museum. The methods of this study is, observed structure and style of clothes and characterize and compared with other similar clothes excavated from other tombs. The result showed Park's clothes was estimated to be from the mid to late 16th century. The elements that enable us to estimate the period are first of all the wearing of women's Dan-ryung, and the shape of the gore and sleeve. Second the shape of Jegory's collar, and Gyron-ma-gi. Third the form of layered skirt and Somaja[hat]. Fourth tiger hyung-bae which embroidered patches on the breast and back of official uniforms. Last, the style and types of Jinju-Ryu's who's the spouse clothes. It will be useful to estimate the chronical year of clothes excavated from unidentified tombs when refer this styles of clothes.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.11 no.4
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• pp.551-561
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• 2003

The regulations for costume were set to improve people's moral fiber and cultural standards. In the 17th and 18th century, the main aim of this regulation was to prohibit luxury. But being the turning point to a modem state, with breaking social status and development of commerce, industry, and the mind of imitation, regulation for luxury wasn't enforced, but rather it brought many revolutionary changes in costume. Restraining human impulse to express beauty was no longer subject to regulation. Therefore, people started to recognize the human figure with shorter Jegory(저고리) and strengthened ceremonial capacity by broadening po's(포) sleeves. The silk fabrics were the most popular fabric during this era, special patterns were added for decoration and also for blessings. Complementary colors were used for contrast on the collar (깃), cuffs (끝동), Gyotrnagi (곁마기), and sash (고름). This color composition gave a younger and more active look. And with red stripes on the sleeves, it emphasized the beauty of the color arrangements as well as providing protection from the devil.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.21
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• pp.177-192
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• 1993

The purpose of this study is to present de-sign development and constructive method on man's Hanbok which can be put on daily-life clothing through supplementing the incon-venience of HanBok and to make men put on daily-life-HanBok through making the HanBok ready-made clothing which has lower-price. The concrete test and its process on devel-oped design are below. (1) In present there are five uncomfortable point waist closing baji's slitting and daenim (2) Developed the first design concentrating on uncomfortable parts with Korean costume-pattern (3) to supplement sleeve armhole and waist closing which are pointed out as the incon-venience at first design development did the second design development. The results through research and process are below. (1) In the functional test of testing clothing a testee is satisfied with jegory's closing at 87. 5% with pocket at 100% and with baji's front closing and daenim (2) The opinion of an observer on daily-life Hanbok is an affirmative response as following turns: traditional aspect practical use and aesthetic aspect. (3) Analyzing the relations between the characters of daily-life hanbok and the popu-lation density variables results are the popu-lation density variable results are followed below. Man has highe points than woman on asthetic and economical aspect. In preferences as educational levels more-educated person has an affirmative response on keeping traditions. In jobs students and white-collar people have affirmative responses on traditions. (4) What one wants to wear the most is the fourth Hanbok(mixing western and Korean costume style with Korean costume fabrics) and daily-life Hanbok with western costume fabrics has 51.8% preferences of responsers. With those results man's daily-life HanBok made through the first and the second design development lessens the inconvenience of Hanbok with some degrees. Also if daily-life Hanbok design continue to be developed through using Korean costume fabrics and western costume fabrics people can easily by functional and practical daily-life Hanbok because it can be massproduced.