• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.33 no.1
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• pp.45-54
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• 2009

The reform of dress regulation in Kapshin(甲申衣制改革; 1884) was the first dress renovation in 8 years after Chosun's port opening in 1876, and the key contents of that reform was the simplification of the formal dress and private dress. The reform in the culture of the traditional costume should require some kind of special experience because that culture had been regarded as the precious symbol of the Confucianism. The purpose of this study is to investigate the background of "the reform" and who proposed "that reform", by contemplating the costume and the thought of costume of the ambassador extraordinary(修信使) and the Inspectors detached to Japan(朝士視察團) who experienced new costume system of Japan sent by Chosun Dynasty. For this study, historical documents such as 'Sillok(實錄)', a sort of report("修信使記錄", "聞見事件") were reviewed and the evidential photos in Japan were analyzed. It can be summarized as follows. First, Kim Kisu(金綺秀, Susinsa) in 1876 and Kim Hongjip(金弘集, Susinsa) in 1880 wore the traditional costume of Chosun in Japan, and described the westernized Japanese costume in view of traditional costume culture. Second, the inspectors detached to Japan in 1881 showed the same attitude to the Japanese costume as the previous Susinsas had done. Third, Park Younghyo(朴泳孝), who was an ambassador extraordinary and plenipotentiary(特命全權大使) in 1882, experienced western style in Japan and played an positive diplomatic activities with western nations. It could be guessed that those changes in the attitudes of the diplomats might have the relationship with the change of Chosun, which began a treaty of amity between western nations after 1882. Afterwards, Chosun seems to have decided to reform the system of traditional costume into the simplified one in 1884, proposed by the diplomats who experienced foreign culture abroad including Park Younghyo(朴泳孝) and the mutual agreement in Chosun Government.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.15
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• pp.149-166
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• 1990

Korean clothes is traditional folk costume native to Korea, Which is in Korea clothes. The past Korean costume was developed in the native costume, together influenced by chinese costume. But in the late Yi dynasty the contact with western countries brought about a turning point in Korean costume history, with rapid growth of economy since Korean war in the 1950's, the magnification of industrial structure, the development of productive technique, transformation of consumption pattern and the development of communication have been increased concerns for the western costume. In 1953 the introduction of nylon which was imported from Japanese brought about a fuming point in clothing habits. In 1967 the development of the fiber industry got a firm stand in ready-made clothes. Consequently our traditional Korean clothes was regarded as nonfunctional, nonproductive and it was pushed out of daily life little by little and it was deprived of the function of ordinary costume by the influence of western costume. But in these days the Korean clothes appears as the desire of pursuing traditional style in addition to mordern style of Korean clothes.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.259-282
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• 1999

To analyze the characteristics of Orientalism which is expressed in the fashion of the 1990's this study was examined according to three aspects such as form textiles and pattern and the aspects was considered with regard to Chinese Indian Japanese Korean, Southeas Asian and North African style. 1. In form Orientalism which is influenced by latest other fashion trend; Naturalism and Minimalism is expressed as a comfortable casual style which simplifies the way of wearing and mixes the characteristic elements of folk costume with western costume. The way of layerd wearing like knotting wrapping draping and the symbolic from which is inspired by the unique are of each country are shown. 2. In textiles Chinese Japanese and Indian silk as well as Southeast Asian and North African cotton show a splendid oriental impression using vivid color. On the other hand the linens of Korea like hemp and ramie emphasize natural characteristics and show a simple and unartificial oriental beauty. But in the use of material and color it shows a remarkable tendency to break the preconceived idea by coordinating a luxurious silk with a practical denim or harmonizing technical new-masterials with traditional materials. 3. In pattern the decorative elements of Orientalism such as a traditional pattern skills to dye embroidery and other decorations are emphasized on the form of western costume. The sketchy patterns of Chinese Korean and Japanese styles which include the pattern of a flower a bamboo and a butterfly are expressed using embroidery or textile printing. The geometrical seriate patterns of Southeast Asian and North African styles use traditional dyeing methods like Batik. Also the Indian technique of decoration like Mirro Work satisfies handcrafted royalty and feminine romantic taste in modern minimal fashion. The Orientalism expressed in the fashion of 1990's emphasizes the characteristics of people wearing colthing which break the preconceived idea by simplifying the form harmonizing differences between oriental and western cultures and mixing the elements of traditional costumes among countries. Most of all. Ethno using geonmetrical seriate pattern and technical new metal material and Romantic Ethnic using flower embroidery precious stones and beads are appearing as a distinctinve feature.

• International Journal of Costume and Fashion
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• v.2
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• pp.41-52
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• 2002

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.65 no.6
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• pp.63-78
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• 2015

This study explored culture adaptive attitudes and traditional dress donning practices among Japanese women who immigrated to Korea after marrying Korean men. Quantitative research was conducted on Korean-Japanese multicultural families. Participants were 233 married women who emigrated from Japan to Korea currently living in Seoul and Gyeonggi Province. The data was analyzed using frequency analysis, t-test and correlation analysis. The findings were as follows: First, a positive relationship was found between Hanbok acceptance attitudes(HAA) and Kimono transmission attitudes(KTA). Both HAA and KTA had a positive relationship with ethnic identity. 43.3% of the respondents thought that they belonged both to Korean and Japanese ethnicity, 30.5% to Korean ethnicity, and 26.2% to Japanese ethnicity. Similar tendency (64.8% to bicultural identity, 31.3% to Korean, and 3.9% to Japanese) was found in the ethnic orientation towards their children. Both HAA and KTA had no difference in accordance with nationality, education and income level. Second, 70.4% of women had no experience of wearing Hanbok, and 90.1% had no experience of wearing Kimono. The women mostly wore Hanbok and Kimono for social events and family weddings.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.8
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• pp.149-163
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• 2000

The purpose of this study is to research the Korean and Japanese costume systems and to compare both of them on the process of adopting the western-originated costumes. The consequences of this study are as follows. Chosen and Japan started simplifying the traditional clothings, Introducing the western clothings and executed the ordinance prohibitory topknots through reforming costume systems since Port Opening Treaties in 19th centra. Japan performed the reformation of costume system effectively through the grand campaign of social reforming enlightment by Meiji Government. Meanwhile in Korea, there were a continual repetition of adoption and rejection in the reformation of costume systems because of strong cultural self-esteem and competition of foreign Empires. However, western-originated cultural perspectives brought the strong self-devaluated view on their own cultures to both countries. And that's the first cause of substitution of western clothings for ordinary ones in both nations.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.52 no.5
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• pp.109-127
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• 2002

As modern fashion trends show oriental motif since the transition of post-modernism, a number of great fashion designers such as Givenchy and Jean-Paul Gautier applied the concept of Orientalism to their fashion design. Total fashion is a trend in which make-up, hair-style, and accessories. together with clothing itself are considered a complete fashion as a whole, and sometimes appeals much to consumers. Given that the previous studies on Orientalism have focused only on clothing. this research aims at examining Orientalism with a total fashion approach to simultaneously study make-up, hair-style, accessories, and clothing, and showing that traditional oriental beauty is expressed by total fashion in which the past appeared again through the process of creative application. We analyzed the Orientalism total fashion from 1990 through 2001 and summarized the national differences among these countries in the following. First, China has a uniformed clothing. make-up, and hair-style as shown its traditional play, "KyungKeuk" and traditional costume, Chipao. Second, Japanese unique traditional costume has been passed on through its traditional costume, Kimono, and traditional play, "Kabuki" Finally, in Korea, make-up, hair-style and the design of the traditional costume. Hanbok, as appeared in "Myindo(means a picture of a beauty) Painted in the Chosun Era are applied and reappeared without much change. It is advised to note that the Orientalism fashion to be discussed in this study is limited to China, Japan, and Korea in Asia.Japan, and Korea in Asia.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.51 no.2
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• pp.135-148
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• 2001

The measuring rule Is to extimate a size of a physical solid and its standard was each part of body since the beginning of the world. Korean traditional measuring rule was "Kyul Boo Sok Pa Bob". It bases on wreth of farm land and means a handful and a bundle. It was the real Korean traditional measuring rule though it was a influence on Chinese rule. And in Koguryo it had an effect on Japanese′s. In Chosun dynasty the King Sejong imprived the measuring rule and regylations in such a way to meet the realistic needs of civil lives. He put in good order by a proportions of the musical scale. It was one of fille correct ways to preserve the measuring rule and based on "Kyul Beo Sok Pa Bob"too. So ill that time the measuring rule for Korean traditional costume′s length was 46.703cm. In king Soonjo it′s length was 49.254cm and in 1926 it changed 50cm by the metric system. In 1990s the standard length has a difference in regions, 30cm, 45cm, 50cm, 54.5cm, 55cm and 60cm. As a result of the actual object investigation by regional measuring rule for Korean traditional costume it can reduce an accidental error when use the standard measuring rule, 50cm.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.54 no.3
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• pp.113-127
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• 2004

The purpose of this study is to search the spiritual root of decoration and anti-decoration culture in contemporary Japanese fashion and find the aesthetic meanings of the decoration culture inside contemporary Japanese fashion. The contents of this study are 1. surveying the historical change about the aesthetic sense of Japan. decoration culture 2. deducing the distinctive aesthetic ideology from the decoration culture 3. finding esthetically the inside meaning of 1.2. in contemporary Japanese fashion. First, the origin of decoration culture was concerned with the belief in the life after death of the Buddhism culture to represent the noble society of the Heian(평안) period and the religion of paradise after the Middle Ages. Second. this decoration culture based on two aesthetic ideologies, beautiful(염) aesthetics and lofty(숭고) aesthetics. The beautiful aesthetics implies words, such as bewitchment, elegance, dignity and brilliance which stand for the sensual pleasure and the eroticism. The lofty aesthetics that was introduced by TakeTakasi(장고) during the Heian period, had the meaning of magnificence, greatness and dignity. This could be recognized as the Confucianism ideas. Third, as the beautiful aesthetics that was the representative aesthetic ideology of the decoration culture, it was related to splendid and decorative designs, and was recognized as the beauty of brilliance and coquetry. The beauty of brilliance, as a decorative element, appeared in patterns of the traditional costume and dyeing as well as the beauty of coquetry indicated that the women's fashion in Japan had soft, feminine, and cute images, called Hawaii, by using various decorations, such as feminine details, flower patterns. ruffles. ribbons and so on. TakeTakasi's lofty aesthetics applied the beauty of exaggeration to every art form. It has influenced the form exaggeration by overlapping in traditional costumes as well as the 1970s big look and layered look in Europe fashion. Issey Miyake and Takeda Kenzo introduced the decorative play, such as transformation and a distortion, which considered refinement, bluff, and oddity of the Japanese decoration art.

• Proceedings of the Korea Society of Costume Conference
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• 2005.10a
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• pp.98-99
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• 2005