• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.8 no.3
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• pp.27-34
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• 2006

Flexibility, love of symbols, small size-these are all qualites that accompany the proclivity towards compactness in Japanese culture. They developed and have been refined to an unusual level in Japan partly out of the necessity to use limited space economically, but these qualities also characterize the aesthetic preferences of the people. Because space is so precious, it receives a great deal of attention in every aspect of life. Over the centuries Japanese have devised innumerable ways to use space that are ingenious in their successful combination of pragmatism, harmony, and beauty. Folding, stacking, rolling, nesting, carrying, consolidating, miniaturizing and transforming are some of the techniques for living that have created the compact culture. Folding allows a one-dimensional object to be placed in prescribed small space. Stacking objects of the same shape makes use of vertical space, saving valuable horizontal space. Rolling an object reduces it to a tidy cylinder without creasing it, creating yet another form of repose for functionally flat things. Nesting several identically shaped objects of graduated sizes is known as ireko. Carrying things by hand makes them available for any occasion, by plan or on impulse. Consolidating is to bring together the multifarious systems of living into an integrated whole. Miniaturizing things is a way to bring even the universe down to the scale of a human hand. Transforming the face of things is another notable propensity in the Japanese life style. Each one is put to use in countless ways, suggesting principles and conceptions that encapsulate the wisdom of tradition. In this study I wishes to investigate the principals of Japanese traditional design and the applied case in fashion goods.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
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• v.19 no.3
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• pp.483-503
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• 1995

The purpose of this study was to clarify the origin which have misused terms, analyze Its meanings and suggest the unified terms. The content of this study are as follows. The origin of the terms in western dress is different with the areas of cultural influence. Japanese occupied much more than other languages in the apparel industry after the civilization. and English has dominated in the educational filed since 1945 the Liberalization. French, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Dutch are added. These languages came to the clothing field via Japanese and English or directly from the countries. 망토(manteau프), 메리야스(medias스), 러닝셔츠(일) 라사(raxa네), 오트 쿠튀르(Haute Couture 프), 비로드(veludo 포), etc. However the words of foreign origin have misused or corrupted until now a days. 마이 (재킷, 상의), 노 슬립, 소데나시 (슬리브리스, 민소매) 넌라쟈(브래지어), 노타이, 노타이샤쓰(오픈칼라 셔츠, 넥타이를 매지 않은 셔츠) 와이샤쓰(드레스 ttu츠), etc. And also these terms are confused in using because of the word's diversity, the different nationality, change of the marking rules, and the difference between the education and production field terms. On the others hand, this study explained the differences between western costume and Korean costume as the clothing manufacture terms were translated to Korean. bodice-길, collar, neckline-깃, belt, sash-(허리)띠 And then the untied terms were suggested through the comparison production field and educational area (including schools and institutes). lapel, 라펠(학교용어) (학원용어), 가에리 (일) (의류산업 현장용어), 아랫깃(통일어) By the way, this study involved the origin of and misused teams in sewing and presented the unified terms. 미까시 (X)-미 카에시(일) - 안단($\bigcirc$), 이새(X)―홈줄임 ($\bigcirc$) As the above , the characteristics of clothing terms which have misused are Japans,;e, corrupt Japanese, false reports foreign words via Korean, Japanese, compound words of Korean and Japanese, compound words of English and Japanese. And also the words of foreign origin in clothing had the following tendency in the marking system. There are ellipsis of form, sex, timber, grammatical case '-ing', '-ed' in adjective and long vowels express to short vowels. We can see this phenomena as the rule of curtailment labor.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.17 no.4
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• pp.583-599
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• 2009

The purpose of this study is to analyze movie costume of main character and find design characteristic and historical spirit focusing on the movie, in which Ishioka Eiko, Japanese movie costume designer constructing unique design world, participated. The study captured images of three movies such as , and with Digital Multimedia Converting System and analyzed them by focusing on the pictures showing designer's intention and design characteristic well among acquired 319 pictures. The costumes addressing movie costume designer's sense of values are recreated as future-oriented new works and are expressed as creative costumes by acquiring inspiration from past factors, dissolving them and applying up-to-date technology. Movie costume shall reflect historical spirit of our age as movie shows social cultural trend including fashion trend of manufactured age. Ishioka Eiko has searched for the design, which is proper for three principles such as 'be unique', 'be eternal' and 'be innovative' and from the result of analyzing movie costume, it is found that she showed characteristics of symbolism(transmission of the sensitivity), ornamentalism(effective representation as a decorative effect attention) and multiculturalism(harmony of time and culture) as well as uniqueness. The movie costume are different mutually and create new hybrid culture, in which different costume cultures are mixed with current costumes without the restriction to other culture. It is proper for the age of globalization and localization so it is expected that the multiculturalism will be enlarged more.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.4
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• pp.6-11
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• 1997

The purpose of this study was to identify and to trace the source of origins of 麻帝核試 that appears in Kei Rim Yu Sa(鷄林類事). Comparative liguistic analytical approaches ware employed for this study. Results of this study revealed that madi(마디) survives as a dialect for m ∂ri[머리(頭)] in Kyung Sang Province Thus, it si considered that the dialect madi(마디) is a survival of 마디(麻帝) of Koryo. Similar words to 核試 of Koryo were found in Hebrew and Japanese : Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) means locks of hair and Japanese ku-shi(くシ) has several meanings : comb, head, and the hair of the head. The word 麻帝核試 of Koryo is a compound ward of madi(麻帝), head and k ∂ shi(그시) 核試 locks of hair(hair of the head). 核試 of Koryo , Jao. ku shi(くシ), and Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) showed close relationships to one another. The word ku shi(si) 그시 核試 was derived from Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) and Jap. ku shi(くシ) was originated from 核試 of Koryo. Kor. ku shi(si) 그시 核試 is a transliteration of Heb. k-u-tsi(zi) and Jap. ku shi(くシ) is a trans-literation of Kor. ku shi 그시 核試.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.31
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• pp.89-99
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• 1997

In order to know what sorts of features of neck fore may be required to make plans for tight fitting collars the neck form of young japanese women were measured three deme-nsionally using. GRASP(Grating projection System for Profiling) and plaster torso. The following results were obtained: 1. We could be known the features of neck form for tight fitting collars by using both plaster torso method and GRASP method. 2. By the BASIC language in NEC computer and EXCEL package program in macin-TOSHI computer it became possible to draft a numble of neck surface automatically there-fore we got analysis of a mass of subjects.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.5
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• pp.197-206
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• 1981

This study focuses upon the custom of the headgear as a part of historical research on our traditional student uniform. It covers from Sam Kuk period(三國鼎立時代) of which we have found written records of formal education through the period under Japanese colonialism: The followings briefly summerizes the results of this study; 1) The educational civilization. The formalism of national education had been similar to that of China. It's main contents consisted of Chinese literature and practice of confucianism. It's objectives had been the education of selected men of ability, most of whom were the offspring of the high class. The education contents after the civilizational period had been gradually modernized for the purpose of westernization. 2) The changes of students' headgear. They had worn the Nakwon of Julpoong style (折風形羅冠) in the Sam Kuk period. They had worn Bok-Doo in the unified Silla dynasty, and Sadaimoolla-Kun (四帶文羅巾), Pyungjung-Kun (平頂巾) and Pyungjung-Dookun (平頂頭巾) in Koryo dynasty. They had worn Yoo-Kun (儒巾), Bok-Kun (福巾) in Yi dynasty. The noticeable distinction under Japanese colonialism had been the custom uniformity from headgear to footwear. Middle school educatee had worn round cap and professional school and college educatees had worn square hats.

• The International Journal of Costume Culture
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• v.13 no.2
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• pp.93-100
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• 2010

The business strategies of small to medium enterprises (SMEs), especially in relation to the Japanese apparel wholesaler and apparel manufacture markets, have been undertaken by Urakami and his colleagues (Komiya et al., 2009; Urakami et al., 2009; Urakami & Wu 2010). The aim now is to investigate the changing business climate of apparel products in Asia, now that China seems to a major player of apparel products in the Asian region. The production of apparel products from China has resulted in a major shift of the business environment. Such products have now invaded import markets throughout the world economies. Such a drastic change in the business environment impacts the structure of distribution channels in competing economies, affecting both wholesalers and manufactures. This research focuses on the effects this has had on the Japanese distribution channels. The findings derived from our previous research are highlighted, together with several planned hypotheses that require testing, in order to build a clearer understanding of apparel manufacturing in the Asian region.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.43
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• pp.97-108
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• 1999

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$ focus on Color and Dying. $\boxDr$Eigamonokatary$\boxUl$is a novel described the life style of Royal Court from 883 till 1107. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. The materials of colors and dyeing which are described in this book reflect the features of the age well. We can assume that the point of its chic might rest on colors and dyeing than design or pattern. 2. Sine they enjoyed wearing lots of clothes which are in the same design but in different colors with the underwear. When color coordinate was fashioned we call them "Kasanenoirome". This type of dressing was in vogue in the age of Heian when there were several devices of showing chic in dressing. 3. The color of clothes at that time might represent one's official position the black the highest class following the purple the red and the blue or green. The black color was made from the purple or blue. The Japanese Emperor would wear reddish yellow or blue clothes according to the nature of his office work. 4. Some of Japanese fashion might be influenced by Korean styles in the respects of coordinating colors and adjusting Buddhist fashion etc. It is required that the turther studies of comparing Korean fashion styles with Japanese ones should be deepened. deepened.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.28
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• pp.47-64
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• 1996

This paper is a study on the expression of Clothing and Textiles recorded in $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi(枕草子) \lrcorner$ This book was written by a Japanese servant in the Royal Court about the year 10000. In this book many kinds of clothing ornament color and materials were mentioned. The discoveries of this paper were as follows. 1. There were 85 different kinds of name In detail there were 46 Clothing and Accessories 32 Clors 11 Materials Patterns the method of Dyeing. 2. All the Clothing and Textiles in Makur-anosorsi were reflections of the reality of that times. 3. From ancient times japanse Costume was much influenced by Korea. but around the 7th century the influence increased. 4. Almost all clothing and Accessories used in Japan in the 10th century had been pre-viosly used in neighboring countries Korea and China But after they were imported to japan some of them were changed to japans hybrids especially in name and shape. 5. In Japan Clothing Colors were used in various ways sometimes colors coordinated by over lapping dress and othertimes the colors were weaved together Namely the width and length of these colorful fibres are also signifi-cant meaning. This meas that the Japanese was much more interested in color than other countries and this also proves Clothing Colors were very developed in japan by the 10th cen-tury. 6. The Materials discovered in this book were almost all silk This is the reason why $\ulcorner Makuranosorsi \lrcorner$ was the expression of the Royal Court.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.60 no.1
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• pp.76-90
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• 2010

Gwa-du(裹肚), name of a garment, appears often from documentary records of Joseon Dynasty. It is assumed as one of the upper garments for men, and according to the record, it was worn as a set with Dan-ryung(團領), Dap-ho(搭胡), Chul-rik(帖裏), Han-sam(汗衫), pants and socks. After the Japanese Invasion of Korea in the 17th century, it changes to a shape of wrapping clothes with straps at four corners, and used to cover the stomach of a corpse like sash. From 16th-17th century, before the Japanese Invasion of Korea, the excavated costume shows a clothing which takes a role of Jegori, longer than Han-sam(汗衫) and shorter than Po(袍). In this study, this clothing is called Gwa-du(裹肚). This study examined the usage and shape of Kwa-du from some documentary records- "朝鮮王朝實錄-The Annals of the Joseon Dynasty", "禮書- Book of Manners", "宮中件記- Googjoonghalkee, recording court goods and commodities lists" and more with actual clothing. Kwa-du is presumed to have changed to men's Jegori So-chang-ui(小氅衣) after 17th century.