• 패션비즈니스
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• 제13권2호
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• pp.50-65
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• 2009

The main purpose of this study is to identify characteristics of shapes of John Galliano's Dior Collection as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison during $1996{\sim}2007$ after he showed himself in Paris in 1990. This study was based on the analyses of John Galliano's design trends of his collections, the pictures of his works in Christian Dior's collection, real works, documents and fashion magazines, newspapers, mass media, internet sites and other visual materials. The study identified characteristics of shapes in Dior Collection until 07/08 F/W as the chief executive designer of Christian Dior Maison, and the design trends before his post-Paris period. Followings are the conclusions of the study. First, Galliano was open to any types of cultures as a liberalist, and also respectful to the tradition or principles. He led the fashion business with new trends by exploring both sides. Second, he succeeded in commercializing his avant-garde feature. Especially, His creativity changed the image of Christian Dior to younger and more casual one. Third, born in England and worked in French, he always took both English (Victorian Style) and French(Napoleon era, Femme Fatal style) sides, and showed excellent formulation that the times needed by combining topical Chinese, Japanese, Egyptian styles.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제53권
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• pp.1-24
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• 2018

본 논고는 근대한국 문학의 전위인 이상(李箱)의 시작품에 구사되는 프랑스어와 탈 지방성에 대한 연구이다. 이상의 시편들 속에 쓰인 기호와 외래어는 한글로는 표현이 어려운 물리학, 건축학, 수학, 기하학, 이국의 문명과 같은 초감각적인 이미지들을 그려내고, 의미생성과 확장을 불러오는 파생의 시어로 작용한다. 이상의 시작품에서 프랑스어는 알파벳 철자와 한글식의 표기로 나누어지고, 문장들은 고딕 적이며, 병렬적인 이미지를 보여준다. 프랑스어 단어들은 "${\Box}$, ${\triangle}$, ${\nabla}$" 등의 기호들과 조화를 이루어 상형적인 이미지로 기술된다. 문법의 규범을 이탈한 문장들은 해체와 재조합을 불러오고, 이때 프랑스어는 한글을 대체하고, 모국어가 갖는 한계를 초극하여 이국의 과학문명과 사상, 예술을 차용하는 포스트모던의 시어로 활용된다. 나아가 "ESQUISSE" 등의 프랑스어는 시인 자신의 열등의식을 초월하고, 자유와 상상력, 현대의 예술정신을 구현하기 위한 전위적인 시어로써, "향토"(鄕土)의 조선 문단에 세계의 신경향을 이식하여 성숙시켜 놓은 탈 지방의 시어로 나타난다.

• 건축역사연구
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• 제12권3호
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• pp.101-116
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• 2003

The word 'Neo-Modern' means the revival of modernism, specially the concept of the White Geometry of Le corbusier and Mies van de Rohe, and the Neo-Modern movement in architecture indicates the leading aspects appeared in 1990's. Modern architecture was a formalistic art movement. With its historical roots, in Europe extending back to the avant- garde modern architecture in 1920's, Neo-Modern appeared with the name of New York Five, in 1970's. In Japan, there has been an outstanding movements presenting Modernism architectural charateristics, since 1980's. The characteristics of these works can be discerned from the those of Regionalism of Historicalism in 1980's. This study is to investigate and analyze the characteristics of the works of Japanese Neo-Modern architects and to contribute to defining the word, 'Neo-Modernism'. In chapter one, the background, purpose and methode of study are presented. In chapter two, the concept and historical background of 'Neo-Modernism' are studied. In chapter three, the characteristics of Neo-Modernism are studied on the basis of the main concepts and formal characteristics of modernism and New york Five. In chapter four, the tradition of Modernism inside the history of Japanese architecture were studied, specially focused on Metabolism. In chapter five, The characteristics of Neo-modern expressions used in the 18 exhibition and cultural facilities in Japan, established after 1980, are analyzed in terms of 4 expression categories. In chapter six, a synthetic conclusion is presented.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제24권5호
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• pp.626-641
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• 2016

Maximalism in modern fashion, which is contrary to the current fashion market that emphasizes functionality and practicality, is an important notion that has been expressed in a variety of ways through designer's unique sense with a mixture of experimental design. With such creative work that suits a trend in novel fashion design, Rei Kawakubo is a current representative of Comme des Garcons who has not only introduced deconstructivism and Japanese-style avant-garde to the fashion industry for the first time. Our research, thus, analyzed the characteristic of maximalism's expression based on the features represented in her collection. Firstly, Expandability is classified as a method of distorting parts of a body and a method of excessively overinflating the silhouette of clothing. Secondly, decorations are expressed in the other as blending different types of materials together. Thirdly, fantasy evokes a fresh and stimulating surreal sensation that may only be felt in an imagination by assigning supernatural and amusing expression to the garment. The forth, fusion refers to a creation of novelty from combining various types of elements and images. The fifth, experiment is unique trait that develops mysterious images, consisted of various details. The sixth, non-structure is different from an initial form of garment that maintains a bilateral symmetry. The importance of our research lies in proposing a fundamental data for development of creative design as well as in expanding a range of possible expression for maximalism, by analyzing the characteristics of maximalism seen in Rei Kawakubo's collection.

• 복식
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• 제22권
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• pp.277-296
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• 1994

The progressive artists in Austria including Gustav Klimt organized the Viennes Se-cessionist in 1897 and they took an active part in the reformation of the reformation of the applied art by accepting the Jugendstil standing for the true art. The vocabularies which characterize this group are decoration literature and the power of symbol. Klimt especially expressed these characteristics and his strong person-ality. For he created his works with the sym-bolic and friendly splendor through his highly decorative talents by accepting the enwly changed artistic situation in those days and by getting out of the naturalistic trends he was regarded as an avant-garde artist as a major figure among the Symbolist artists who revived European culture which was destroyed through the World War I. The characteristics of klimt's works was to express the various human thoughts and minds through the decorativeness and the femininity and to use the decorative elements of old Greek and Egyptian culture and Japanese art as the motives of his works, His art is to be found between the naturalistic characteristics and formalization as well as between the in-dustrial arts and the fine arts. In his many portraits he preferred women by trying to express eroticism hidden behind the human inner world. For this he demonstrated the attractiveness and the characteristics of the models by designing the illusionary and unique clothes. In general his genius was to be seen through the costume which was decorated with metals and jewels and through the characteristics of the modern costume in which the previous solid silhouette was removed and the gentle and elegant me-dium color was used. by accepting the new artistic trends in the turn of the century by fully expressing those characteristics in his creative world and by taking his theme from the eroticism through the decorativeness and the expression of women Gustav Klimt's uniquely decorative ex-pression completely realized the aesthetics of Jugendstil symbol decoration and expression which displayed not only the external appear-ance but also the inner world. Especially he created a new appearance emphasizing the costume of the characters in his works. Also through the costume he expressed his artistic consciousness and psy-chology. He showed the characteristics of the reformed costume through the medium color the simple forms and gentle silhouette. Also he tried to symbolize the passionate inner pow-er by designing the small mosaics such as the geometrical patterns whirlpool patterns and the indecent meanings all over the costume. Klmt's this kinds of attemps shows a Stil Kostume as the external outcome of the inner spiritual activities like art and it establishes a basis for the theory of costume are which deals with the concepts of costume from the artistics points of view. This tradition playing an important role in the contemporary history of costume even has been still inherited up to today.

• 비교문화연구
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• 제39권
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• pp.219-240
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• 2015

The following summarized argument is the comparative research of the characteristics of automatic techniques demonstrated in the mixed expression of foreign language and Korean language in Lee Sang's poetry. Our research examines the use of foreign languages such as French and English shown in Lee Sang's poems, and then, recognized the characteristics of the automatic techniques demonstrated by the parallel marks and signs of Korean language. The automatical technique's element that Lee Sang made use of is a language of loanblend, consisting of free use of French, English, Japanese and Korean. The mathematical and geometric figures such as numbers and shapes can be seen as an important poetic language. In Lee Sang's poetry, the French words "AMOUREUSES" and "ESQUISSE" and English words "I WED A TOY BRIDE" are considered as parts of Korean language. The use of foreign language is seen by the readers as encodes of a unacquainted language and it provides rhetorical characteritstics that gives off profanatory feeling about the poetry. The poet is seen to have created a new poetic language that excess the standards of the limitations that Korean and Chinese marks have through the application of polysems and poliphonyic effects that foreign languages have. The mathematical and geometric signs are Lee Sang's special experimental elements that can't be seen in other literary poetries. They are conversational and the requirements for the expression of abstract artistry and esthetics. The language used in his poetry are external to those traditional poetic languages and they mix freely with other poetic elements to become an automatic technique used in the writing. Lee Sang's techniques can be considered as the pursuit of defiance and departure, freedom about literature and artistry. Moreover, the avant-garde expressionism is the literary form that demonstrated the sense of inferiority, nervousness and loneliness risen from physical pain and the abnormal relationship with women in the poet's personal life. The technique shows the longingness of the the Western culture and literature that lay dormant in the poet's consciousness and it is also the expression of ingenious that created the new guide in the Korean poetic literature, exceeding the European surrealism. Lastly, the automatic technique images that are demonstrated by the mixture of the foreign languages and Korean language are the creations of an innate poetic language and poetic literature that can't be imitated by anyone in Korean literature.