• 제목/요약/키워드: Japanese avant-garde

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A Case Study on the Design Characteristics of Japanese Young Fashion Designers in the Paris Collection

  • Jung, Kyunghee;Bae, Soojeong
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제17권6호
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    • pp.158-175
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    • 2013
  • The purpose of this study is to provide basic information to Korean fashion designers who wish to advance to the overseas collection. This is done through analyzing the design characteristics of Japanese young fashion designers, Tsumori Chisato, Commuun, and Limi Feu, who have successfully launched their designs into the Paris collection and became global fashion brands. Collections of each brand were analyzed by the overall fashion style and design elements. For the overall fashion style, Tsumori Chisato used a romantic style using details with various ornaments, whereas Commuun shows minimal style with a simple silhouette. Limi Feu expressed avant-garde style with experimental patterns. Moreover, these brands expressed different style to other brands by applying Japanese traditional clothes, patterns, and Japanese techniques in modern view point. In terms of design elements, these three brands used the H-line silhouette. Tsumori Chisato used loose fit; Commuun, slim line; and Limi Feu, boxy silhouette. In the case of colors, materials, patterns and details, Tsumori Chisato showed mix & match with various colors, materials, patterns and details. Commuun used mono tone with black & white using only one or two materials. Limi Feu usually used the color black with cotton. According to the style of the brand and region of the collection, the main characteristics of the design and the application of Japanese traditional elements can be different.

유영국(劉永國)의 초기 구성주의: <랩소디>(1937)에 나타난 유토피아니즘 (Yoo Young-kuk's Early Constructivism: Utopianism in (1937))

  • 유영아
    • 미술이론과 현장
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    • 제9호
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    • pp.93-121
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    • 2010
  • This study is about Yoo Young-kuk's early works which show constructivism, especially focus on his debut painting, for the 7th Dokuritsu Bijutsu Kyokai(獨立美術協會, the Independent Fine Arts Association) in Tokyo in 1937. The work was painted 2 years after he had started his study in Japan in 1935. It was the first painting that applied Constructivism. played an important role for Constructivism to be a leading art in his abstraction. After this picture, Yoo was soon devoted to the principles of Constructivism-- Faktura(material), Tektonika (tectonics), Tekhnika(technique), space, construction-- in his painterly reliefs. This article examined why Yoo concentrated on Constructivism for , what the characteristics were, and what influences were on other works from 1935 to 1949. In addition, I investigated in which period was painted and how Constructivism was spread in 1930s and early 1940s in chapter 2. I scrutinized Rhapsody in chapter 3. When Yoo created Japan was under the Fifteen Years War(1931-1945), and a major discourse was the Japanese Spirit at that time. It was connected with construction of an ideal nation which the Japanese ultra-national fascism pursued. This ideological pursuit was intended to unite the Japanese people for total war system and to restore a national dignity which had been fallen down due to Manchurian Incident(1931). Thus, on the hand, Kokusai Bunka Shinkokai(國際文化振興, The Society for International Cultural Relations) and the Nippon Kosaku Bunka Renmei(日本工作文化連盟, Japanese Werkbund) were supported financially by the Japanese government. On the other hand, the government enacted regulations to opposing parties which would distract Japanese people's unification. As for the Japanese art world, the merge of art groups was carried out through remodeling of Teikoku Bijutsuin(帝國美術院, The Imperial Fine Arts Academy) in 1935. This brought out continuous dispute and disorder. Young artists who felt difficulty of entering an entry of Imperial Fine Arts Exhibition repeatedly grouped and disbanded for small art groups to build their standing, which they pursued Surrealism and Abstract art. Among them Constructivism was considered as the latest trend and was popular in craft, design, architecture as well as fine arts. In the year before he painted , Avant-garde theatres including Constructivism theatre were introduced in a feature article of September, 1936 in Atelier, which was dealing with mainly avant-garde arts. Books related with Constructivism were translated into Japanese, and Gestaltung Education had become active since the publication of A Compendium of Gestaltung Education("構成敎育大系"(1934)), Salvador Dali(1904-1989) was also introduced, so Surrealism was drawn more attention by young artists. reflected popular trends. Yoo analyzed the Japanese avant-gardists' archaic taste in the Independent Art Association that he submitted his painting to. And then he entitled 'Rhapsody' which derives from Ancient Greek's epic poetry and deliberately set up images in a scene. In chapter 3, I examined a theme which was planned carefully by sorting favorite images from the Japanese Surrealism. was a result that Yoo Young-kuk observed objectively the phenomenon that young artists dreamt of Utopia or longed for Nostalgia passively and lethargically under wars. And then he otherized himself from that circumstance. First of all, for he used the typical icons of Japanese Surrealism such as the horizon, flowing clouds, and vast plain that were considered stereotypes of Arcadia. He, however distinguished himself form those Japanese Surrealists. He made his own vision about Utopia by referring Lyubov Popova(1889-1924)'s stage design. His objective point of view was expressed by positive and dynamic images of structure and human's actions. Constructivism which was attempted in had an effect on other early constructive works, and the principles of Constructivism were sought hard in reliefs, paintings, and photos.

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이상(李箱)의 초기시에 나타난 한국근대 건축의 '근대성'탐구 (A Study on the Modernity of Korean Architecture appeared in Yi Sang's Early Poems)

  • 정인하
    • 건축역사연구
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    • 제8권1호
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    • pp.63-80
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    • 1999
  • Poet, Yi-sang, born in 1910, originally studied architecture in Kyeong Sung High Technical School. He also experienced an architectural practice in Chosun Chongdokbu (the Government office of Japanese empire in Korea) during 4 years. After resigned the post of architectural engineer in 1933, he became a man of letters. Until his death in 1937, he published the writings hard to understand, which remind us of the works of western avant-garde. Because of the peculiarity and difficulty of his poem and novels, he becomes the object of studies by many critics and historians of literature. And he is estimated as the representative of Korean modernism. This study tries to related Yi-sang's early poems to architectural discourse for the search of 'modernity' of Korean modern architecture. His early poems, which is published in from 1931 to 1933, are worthy of notice because they contained a acute shock derived from radically changed spacial structure, the absolute emptiness of the individual happened in the 1930's Seoul. They also show a different attitude from the writings of Park Dongjin and Park Kilryong, the architects contemporary with Yi-Sang. Compared with their writings, Yi sang's early poems had an insight into the totality of modern culture like western avant-gardes. Therefore Yi-sang's early poems can give us a good base to understand the characteristics of 'modernity' of Korean architecture.

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한국적(韓國的) 패션디자인에 대(對)한 영국(英國) 패션전문가(專門家)들의 인식(認識) 조사(調査) (A Study on the Recognition of Korean Image Fashion Designs by U.K Fashion Specialists)

  • 박혜원
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제8권2호
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    • pp.69-90
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    • 2004
  • The purpose of this study is to find the recognition of Korean image fashion design by U.K fashion specialists. U.K is one of the important countries in design field including fashion design since 1960. For this purpose, literature research and focus individual interview research were carried. First, through the researches precedent, it was found that a national image is related with it's design industry and what is Korean image fashion design, were studied. Second, for individual interviews to 13 U.K fashion specialists, who are teaching and researching in University that has postgraduate course over M.A and had industrial experiences from 7years to 22years, were progressed using open questions and visual image stimulus. The open questions were consisted with four parts : personal educational and industrial background, recognitions about oriental fashion, recognitions about Korean image and Korean fashion design before seeing the visual stimulus, recognition about Korean image fashion design and the characteristics of Korean after seeing the visual stimulus. The results are as follows; First, the 12 U.K specialists have recognized 'oriental fashion' is one of important fashion trends now a days. Japan and Japanese designers are recognized as a represented nation and designer in oriental fashion by them. Two of the specialists referred to need changing the term 'oriental' because the term has been used in the sights of western from colonial age and Japanese is not included the oriental any more. Secondly, 11 interviews have recognized nothing about the Korean national image some of them has negative image due to political situation in Korean Peninsula. However 2 interviews who had been Korea before has positive image. In the questions about Korean fashion and Korean fashion designers, 10 of 13 interviews have nothing and negative recognitions. So it was founded that Korean fashion design was recognized as a lower level by U. K. fashion specialists. Thirdly, in the questions about Korean fashion image and the design characteristics of Korean fashion after seeing the visual stimulus, the response was represented two directions. One is about over decorative image through ethnic design and the other is about simple image differ from Japanese. The 13 interviews felt the Korean Image fashion design such like traditional, decorative, opulent, flat cutting, fresh proportion, loose, layering, natural, simplicity, complicate, adventure, easy, stylish, soft, feminine, young image, adult sexy image. The images were analyzed five image groups : adult sexy image, adult ethnic image, natural image, young avant-garde image, young simple casual image. No one preferred the adult sexy image, adult ethnic image and natural image. However 10 interviews preferred young avant-garde group and 13 interviews preferred the young simple casual image. So this group can be understanded and useful informed as one of competitive power in global fashion industry.

일본의 기계적 무의식과 전통공간디자인의 분열분석에 관한 연구 (A Study on the Mechanical Unconscious of Japan and Schizo-Analysis of Japanese Traditional Space Design)

  • 박경애
    • 한국실내디자인학회논문집
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    • 제21권2호
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    • pp.74-83
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    • 2012
  • This study is an historical consideration about the modern discourse of Japanese spacial tradition driven from cultural background. The purpose of this study is to establish a cartographic map of historical progress, and to shed light on the forming of identity in Japanese traditional space design on the schizo-analytical aspect. It adopts F. Guattari's psychoanalytic theory to the structural analysis of Japanese traditional space design. The process of this study is illustrated as follows: At first, it mentions Guattari's theory of Mechanical Unconscious, Schizo-analysis, Cartography, and Abstract machine as theoretical background. And, it considers the identity of Japanese traditional space constructed by various cultural sign over a long period of time as the statement of apriority. Secondly, it clarifies semiologic generation of Japanese traditional space design based on the analysis of spacial morphemes about each design stemmed from modernization process of Japan. Thirdly, it ascertains semiologic topography the representamens draw, i.e. schizo-analytic cartography from synchronic and diachronic point of view. Fourthly, it analyses traditional discourse structure in terms of generative schizo-analysis and transformational schizo-analysis with four categories- object, style, concept, strategy. Through this process, it studies the reproduction of Japanese tradition in terms of the 'social organization', and explores the way vitalized on the space-time coordinate system by the schizo-analysis of the mechanical unconscious. In conclusion, it clarifies Generative-schizo is accomplished in the level of formulating representamen, and Transformational-Schizo involves experimental mind that induce implantation of the heteromorphic elements and avant-garde experiments of abstract mechanical operation in the schizo-analysis of Japanese traditional space design. The significance of this study is to arrange an opportunity of introspection on Korean-ness seriously from inspecting logic of Japan-ness closely in traditional space design.

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일본 패션이 현대 패션에 미친 영향-(1980년대 이후를 중심으로)- (Study on the Influence that the Japanese Fashion has had on the Contemporary Fashion(Focusing on the since 1980s))

  • 정성혜
    • 복식
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    • 제25권
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    • pp.21-39
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    • 1995
  • By 1980, there are two main flows in the world fashion. One is the traditional Paris fashion by Houte Couture, and the other is the American casual fashion by mass production. However, the appearance of Japanese designers and their new styles on the stage of Paris fashion have had a strong influence on the change of the world fashion since 1980s. So, the purposes of this study were first to research the process, the background and the power which let the Japanese stand and suc-ceed in the stage of Paris fashion, second to research on the Fashion World and Fashion Trend from the beginning of 1980s to present (1994). The results were as follow ; Hanae Mori and Kenzo were the pioneers who let the West know the existence and the level of Japanese fashion. Issey Miyake was the new innovator in the 20th century Fashion. and became the foundation of the New Wave Fashion in 1980s. Rei kawakubo completed the philosophy of beauty by the imperfection and has led the Postmodernism in the Fashion. The constant efforts of the these Japanese designers have inspired the orientalism and Art-to Wear, showed up the new construction and material in clothing by layering and drap-ing and stimulated the traditional Paris fashion to become popular, casual and diverse. The success of Japanese designers and the boom of Japanese fashion were not only the effort of individuality but also the power of economics, the spirit of cooperation and the affection to the culture and tradition on the background. The New Wave fashion by Japanese designers in the beginning of 1980s have promoted the appearance of Avant-garde fashion in London, the new fashion spirit in Milano, and the various fashion styles of different sections in the West and East. Finally, it becomes popular in 1990s and leads the fashion spirit in the end of 20th century.

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한국(韓國) 신세대(新世代) 패션에 관(關)한 연구(硏究) - 일본대중문화(日本大衆文化)의 영향(影響)을 중심(中心)으로 - (A Study on the Fashion of the New Generation in Korea - Focusing on the Influence of Japanese Popular Culture -)

  • 이희승;조규화
    • 패션비즈니스
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    • 제6권1호
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    • pp.83-101
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    • 2002
  • The purpose of this study is to observe the elements of Japanese popular culture portrayed in Korean new generation fashion at the current point of time, when Japanese popular culture is first being opened to Korea. And the another purpose is to look into the fashion consciousness of them, which is made up of these aspects. The new generation plays the leading role in further excelling the culture of our society. They are the generation of sense and sensibility, the generation of "me", the generation of information, and the generation of individuality. Even before Japanese popular culture was officially opened, the new generation was already accepting fashion, comics and animation, video games, music, broadcasting, food, etc. The Japanese cultural elements that show most in Korean fashion are street fashion and the fashion of celebrities. These are mostly brought in by fashion magazines, the internet, satellite TV, the new media of cable TV, and street shops. The aspects of Japanese popular culture in Korean new generation fashion are many and varied. Such examples in fashion are : vintage style, school-girl style, sexy causal style, black coordination, soft avant-garde style. It can be said that the fashion consciousness of Korean new generation could be placed in the following order. First, the variety of fashion. Next, the internationalism of fashion. Third, the information of fashion, and last, the play value of fashion. Interest has peaked in Japanese culture after the official opening, and this study has explored the very same aspects which can be seen in Korean new generation fashion. This study was meant to help make a responsible and sturdy new generation fashion culture which can help face the new millennium.

현대패션에 나타난 Anti Couture 경향 연구 (A Study on Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion)

  • 변영희;채금석
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제33권7호
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    • pp.1098-1108
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    • 2009
  • This study finds the meaning of Anti Couture in the examination of the tendency and characteristics of aesthetics sense of Anti Couture in Contemporary Fashion. Anti Couture disregards the traditional composition and takes some subcultural elements, moreover, have the Anti-decoration characteristics of disproportion, disharmony, asymmetry, inperfection, and irregularity such as Japanese fashion. This study analyzed 600 works from 2000 S/S to 2008 S/S to figure out the Anti Couture to summarize the eclectic, humorous, avant-garde, poor, and minimal tendencies. The characteristics of the aesthetics sense of Anti Couture according to the tendency are analyzed into ambiguity, deformation, eclecticism, deconstruction, and artless art.

현대미술과 패션에 나타난 섬유 및 소재의 물질성 (Materiality of Fabric in Contemporary Art and Fashion)

  • 예민희;정지숙;임은혁
    • 복식
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    • 제64권5호
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    • pp.50-61
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    • 2014
  • Fashion has been compared to art since Japanese avant-garde fashion designers expanded the thoughts about conceptual fashion in late 1970s. The fashion designers focused on the materiality of fashion textiles by placing more importance on it than the shapes. This bears a striking resemblance to contemporary art of 1960s and 1970s as many artists used soft materials like felt, fabric, rubber to emphasize themselves. This study establishes the materiality of fabric, which can be found in both contemporary art and fashion. The classification of materiality consists of flexibility, humanizing and temporality. In this work, there is a significant disparity between contemporary art and fashion.

현대 패션에 나타난 오리가미의 영향 (Origami Inspiration in Contemporary Fashion)

  • 임은혁
    • 한국의류학회지
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    • 제33권8호
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    • pp.1253-1261
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    • 2009
  • The paper-folding effect of origami signifies a planarization of the body which questions the three dimensional construction of the body in a more conventional clothing system. Un-structured, variable space posited between the body and clothes, and an absence of gender identification characterizes the planarization of the body. Origami inspiration in fashion stresses a will-to-form rather than mere bodily proportion and structure, which explores a trans-extensity that goes beyond the boundary of the body. This study inquires on the influence of origami as a method to create new vestmental space in contemporary fashion. The flat-plane clothes of origami-inspired design are no longer cut to the body and the clothes could be altered by the wearer. The space is introduced in between a three-dimensional dress-body and the body. Origami-inspired design in Japanese avant-garde fashion deconstructs the convention and promotes a symbiosis of body and clothing instead. The shape of the body is completely estranged by three-dimensional sculptures, alluding to the paper folds of origami and the movement of the body that are transmitted to the clothing through fine folding that transform into an unexpected event.