• 패션비즈니스
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• 제6권2호
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• pp.41-52
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• 2002

At the beginning of the modern times, orientalism and ethnic character was the main stream of current fashion. Early in the twentieth century, orientalism had a tremendous affect on various areas of society, culture, and art. Particularly, it inspired and activated the design of costume. A great variety of colors and construction of the Orient and geometrical simplicity were based on the creation of modern costume. Ethnic placed weight on the Orient because Japan strengthened competitiveness and China opened the door to foreign countries. Therefore, a large number of the oriental costume produced by a variety of fashion designers. The oriental handicraft, motif and colors of the traditional costume have been used in modern costume. In addition, they are precious ideas for designers. This thesis is about a Study on costume embroidery close to fashion through the oriental embroidery and the concept of oriental embroidery. It is also a study on patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery shown in modern fashion and practical use through the designers works. First, concept, process of change, patterns, skills and colors of the oriental embroidery are mainly discussed. 1.The oriental embroidery consists of life, Buddhism, appreciation and costume embroidery. Embroidery was widely used for a variety of purposes. First, it is to make a good impression and beauty. Second, to decorate many kinds of patterns and shapes. Last, to indicate social status and stages. 2.The origin of the oriental embroidery started in Persia. was It greatly developed in Iran and was introduced in Korea via China. We are reminded of the oriental embroidery of China. China is the original place of oriental embroidery. Oriental embroidery has developed the peculiar embroidery according to each climate, custom and nationality. On the basis of these, the practical use of the oriental embroidery on modern fashion is presented through patterns, skills and colors which leads Korean designers use. Even though the oriental embroidery is not very popular among people owing to a great deal of cost and a demand for labor, the patterns and colors of the embroidery has been already familiar with the contemporaries A more profound study on the oriental embroidery will supply a great deal of material and ideas to the fashion industry. Moreover, an effort to raise self-pride in traditional culture will be also in need.

• 복식
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• 제66권3호
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• pp.93-106
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• 2016

The aims of this study are to elucidate the relationship between the luxurious trends of costumes and the importation of Ming's patterned textiles in the $17^{th}$ century, and to analyze the similarity between certain Joseon and Ming fabric patterns. After Imjinwaeran[임진왜란] and Byungjahoran[병자호란], more diverse Joseon textile patterns appeared. Generally, wars lead to a shortage of luxury goods and basic commodities. However, $17^{th}$ century Joseon had an abundance of luxury goods, which allowed even some commoners to have clothing made of Chinese silk. That was the result of free trade between the Koreans and the Chinese merchants in Joseon. Ming's merchants followed the Ming's troops into the Korean Peninsula and targeted Koreans to sell their goods, such as fur coats and fur hats. Free trade between Ming and Joseon took place at Junggang [중강] and Donggangjin [동강진]. Joseon imported Chinese textiles there and resold them to Japanese merchants. Some of the Changgi Chung's excavated fabrics might be an evidence of the import from the Ming. These fabrics had the inscription and were similar to Ming fabrics. It can be assumed that trade occurred between Joseon, China, and Japan, as fabrics found in the countries had similar patterns such as flower, bee, and four seasons, which represented longevity. Furthermore, Chinese fabrics might have triggered Joseon's weaving skills to develop, which led to the ability to weave refined and beautiful brocade satin at Sangbang [상방]. According to Uigwe[의궤], Sangbang could weave silk fabrics in the 1620s and 1630s. The improvement of weaving techniques might make it possible to weave some popular patterns at Sangbang.

• 패션비즈니스
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• 제27권1호
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• pp.61-76
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• 2023

The purpose of this study was to derive exotic products handled by Bon Marche department store, examine characteristics, and reveal the meaning of exotic taste in the 19th century. The research method is literature research centered on original materials of the time, such as old literature related to department stores, and films, newspapers, magazines, and periodicals as well as books and papers. Commercial catalogs and Agenda-Buvard published by Bon Marché were used as visual materials. Results are as follows. Exotic tastes of products of the Bon Marche department store in the late 19th century showed an oriental style centered on Persia, India, China, and Japan. Products from various regions such as Turkey, Spain, Algeria, Tunisia, England, Italy, and Russia were also accepted. These exotic tastes had the following contributions and meanings. First, they expanded items and product development and activated domestic industry through production of imitations and replicas. Second, before the advent of department stores, foreign items that came to Europe were exclusive properties of a few privileged classes. However, in the late 19th century, as the number of consumers who wanted to have a new status higher than themselves increased, exotic products of the Bon Marche department store became the object of desire for material pursuits toward the upper class rather than sentimental fantasies. Third, exotic tastes gradually spread to the public as production of products imitating foreign products became possible industrially with an easy access to them. From this, it can be seen that department stores were mediators of trends and the epicenter of popularizing exotic tastes.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권5호
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• pp.753-765
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• 2008

In this study, the characteristics of body types of female adults Korean living in Japan were reviewed by analyzing factors and groups in order to provide basic data required to research body types. The subjects were 304 women in their 20's, 40's and 60's born in Japan and living in Osaka at present. The major results of this study are as follows. As a result of factor analysis, there were eight factors for the body types of women in their 20' and 40'. In case of the women in their 60', nine factors were extracted. The results of cluster analysis were as follows: Type one from the women in their 20' was tallest and has long legs. Type two was short and had a small frame with lowest weight. Type three had a thick frame and weighed heavy. It was categorized into a fat body type. Type one from the women in their 40' had medium height but a fat frame. Type two was tallest and had average weight and long legs. Type three was short and had a small frame with lowest weight. Type one from the women in their 60'was tallest and had long legs. Type one was categorized into a slim body type, Type two was categorized into a fat body type, and Type three was categorized into a short and small body type with shortest height and lowest weight.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제40권5호
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• pp.921-935
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• 2016

This research analyzed the manual performance of firefighting protective gloves on global markets in order to suggest an evaluation method for firefighting protective gloves wearing comfort. We collected 13 types of firefighting gloves from domestic and international markets (7 types from Korea, 3 types form Europe, 2 types from the U.S and 1 type from Japan). We set the Don-Doff test as a basal requirement for moving toward to further manual performance tests that consist of: ASTM dexterity test, Minnesota dexterity test, Bennett hand tool test and ASTM torque test. All gloves were evaluated in dry and wet conditions, we included eight current male firefighters ($43.4{\pm}7.0yr$ in age, $173.1{\pm}4.4cm$ in height, $79.9{\pm}9.2kg$ in body mass) for the tests. Four gloves (1 Korea, 1 U.S, 1 Germany, and 1 Japan) out of thirteen firefighting gloves passed the Don-Doff test and had great subject preferences. There was no significant difference between dry and wet conditions on the ASTM dexterity test, Minnesota dexterity test, Bennett hand tool test and ASTM torque test. However, Japanese gloves had the greatest score and showed 3-4 times faster completion time on the ASTM dexterity test (p<.05), 1.2-1.5 times faster on the Minnesota dexterity test (p<.05), as fast as the bare hand on Bennett hand tool test (p<.05), and greater performance on the ASTM torque test compared to bare hand. In conclusion, Don-Doff test in wet conditions should be the first step for a mobility evaluation of domestic firefighting protective gloves; subsequently, a comprehensive test assorting ASTM, Minnesota, and Bennett test should be developed as a second step. The current ASTM torque test can be adopted as a third step. This three-step-method for evaluating firefighting protective glove mobility can be expected to expand into surveys of other safety gloves in Korea.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제10권5호
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• pp.702-712
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• 2008

The aim of this study is to develop Casual Hanbok design made of Hanji yarn textiles for New Silver generation women. The New silver generation is a coined word which has meaning of a newly silver generation and it is distinguished from pre-silver generation. New silver generation is a generation that is independent and given active role by their age groups and generational characteristic. The concept of silver generation was introduced from maturity market in Japan. This study was based on analysis about their preference of forms, colors, and materials of Casual Hanbok. The survey target were 270 female over age 50 living in Daejeon City. The analysis methods used frequency and percentage. The results were summarized as following. Although almost of them haven't worn Casual Hanbok, they had the positive recognition on wearing one. They preferred longer length jacket to traditional Korean style, shorter length of skirt. They also preferred the traditional sleeve shape and knotted buttons. On the foundation of this fact, 2 styles consist of 5 Casual Hanbok design items made of functional material - Hanji yarn textiles that have antimicrobial, deodorant, quick drying, far infrared radiation which are not harmful to health - for New silver women were suggested. One style was 3 items - blouse, vest, skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with activity by patch. The other was 2 items - jacket and skirt - which are the sense of Korean tradition with modern way by quilting. Lastly, these garments were evaluated by 13 experts, they were satisfied with 2 styles and all items. As this study were based on the Elderly women living in Daejeon city, it had the limitation on applying of preference styles to all the New silver generation.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제15권2호
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• pp.286-293
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• 2013

This study investigates the attachment of glycyrrhizin to fabric using an X-ray photoelectron spectrophotometer( XPS). XPS spectra analysis showed that carbon content on treated fabrics with 0.2% glycyrrhizin increased to 2.699% for silk, 2.829% for nylon, 1.505% for cotton, respectively. The results show that glycyrrhizin is absorbed on treated fabrics. The glycyrrhizin extraction method makes radix glycyrrhizae powder 10g treat the first and the second treatment with ethanol, remove impurities on $75^{\circ}C$; subsequently, it is treated for 10 hours with ethanol 75% on $85^{\circ}C$ and lyophilizated. As the result, glycyrrhizin is extracted 1.7g in GL-I, 1.1 g in GL-II. As the result of abstracting glycyrrhizin with two methods, pure glycyrrhizin was abstracted 45.9% in GL-I, 74.9% in GL-II. GL-I, GL-II; in addition, glycyrrhizin( Japan) on TLC plate was separated in Rf 0.6. By GL-II extract method, this experiment obtained glycyrrhizin 15 g treated in a bath ratio set to 1: 100. Silk fabric was treated at $80^{\circ}C$, 60 min. in, nylon fabric $10^{\circ}C$, 70 min., and cotton fabric $30^{\circ}C$, 80 min.; subsequently, silk, nylon, cotton fabrics showed a 99.9% antibacterial activity for Staphylococcus aureus and Klebsiella pneumoniae.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제6권5호
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• pp.605-612
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• 2004

This is a study which evaluates the brand personality on casual brands according to the sensibilities of consumers. Focus is placed on classifying the sensibilities of consumers through G sensibilities developed by the Fuji Research Institute in Japan, and then on investigating brand personality of casual wear, Levi's in particular. The subjects are 187 male and female college students living in the Busan area. Data were, using SPSS 10. 0 for Window, statistically analyzed by frequency and factor analysis for VARIMAX, Cronbach's coefficient, and ANOVA. The results of data analysis are as follow; First, in the distribution of G sensibility type, the majority of the respondents have G3(whimsical) type, and then followed by G1(my pace) type, G4(active) type, G2 type(active) type and then G5(sensualist) type. Second, as a result of brand personality evaluation on the casual brands, it has been represented by the following 5 factors; passion, competence, honesty, sophistication, and sentiment. Third, the brand personalities according to G sensibilities showed significant differences among respondents; G5 type(sensualist) especially showed the highest brand personality in the passion and sentiment factors, which are distinctive in the brand personality of Levi's. Consumers of G1 type, G2 type, G3 type, and G4 type showed high brand personality in the competence and honesty factors. The evaluation of brand personality, case study for products development and application, and application of the results need to be continued for follow-up study.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제1권1호
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• pp.12-17
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• 1999

The actual clothing conditions were surveyed to diagnose clothing condition of collegians in the view point of adaptation to the thermal environment in fall. Then, clothing climate, physiological responses, and subjective sensation were investigated through wearing trials on human subjects in climatic chamber based on the results from the survey. Factors to evaluate validity of clothing condition were clothing weight, clothing climate, physiological responses of human body, and subjective sensation. Adaptability of this research to thermal environment was compared to the results of Toda's and Duno's of Japan, Chung's results of Korea rural area, and Winslow's clo value. The standard values for wearing trials were values at comfortable zone, such as $32{\pm}1^{\circ}C$ of temperature and $50{\pm}10%$ of humidity inside clothing, $36.5{\sim}37.3^{\circ}C$ of ear temperature and $32.2{\sim}34.3^{\circ}C$ of mean skin temperature. Clothing weight per body surface area was 680.9 $g/m^2$ in male and 526.7 $g/m^2$ in women. Cold resistance ability of collegians was superior to Japanese and American, and similar to rural male in Korea. According to the examination of clothing adaptability with clothing weight from the investigation on physiological responses and the actual clothing conditions survey, following were found. Temperature inside clothing ($29.8{\sim}32.3^{\circ}C$) was normal, and humidity inside clothing (32.2~54.8%) was at comfortable zone. Mean skin temperature was at its comfortable zone. Therefore, 615 $g/m^2$ in male and 525 $g/m^2$ in female were a desirable wearing condition.

• 복식
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• 제59권10호
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• pp.124-136
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• 2009

This Study is on the Punggongyubodoryake. Punggongyubodoryak was the records and pictures written by Ohgyeongmun(吳景文, Painter) and Gangbonpungeon(岡本豊彦, a Japanese painter, 1773~1745). in 1832. Those records and pictures were about the gifts which Korea's King(宣祖, 1567-1608) sent to Doyotomi Hideyosi(豊臣秀吉, Pungsinsugil) in 1590. Most of the gifts were of the Korean costume, which meant that Korea recognized Doyotomi Hideyosi as the new general of Japan, Tokugawa Shogunate(幕府將軍). The pictures of every Clothing in punggongyubodoryake described forms of every cloth and delineated ornamental patterns and sizes of clothing as closely as actual, they were clothes of the Middle period of Chosun. the author of the study inferred that it would be one of the impotent materials in the history of the Korean traditional costume. Among the clothes, there were several danryeongs(단령, ceremonial coat), okgwan (玉冠 woman headdress with) and paeok(佩玉, pendents with jade stings) and choongdan(中單 ceremonial undercoat) and Sang(裳, ceremonial Skirts for man), gyeontongsuseulran (肩通袖膝襕, chinese coat) was recorded in punggongyubodoryake. they were not a set of clothes for ceremonial costume but a mixture of men's and women's costume, of korean and abroad styles. the author inferred that this phenomenon was actually a good proof that the gifts were sent to Hideyosi only as courtesy, which meant for downgrading the receiver.