• 복식
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• 제61권1호
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• pp.69-83
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• 2011

This study applied cartoon-like simple and implicit symbol of Keith Haring works to tubular jacquard knit, designed woman casual knit wear with fun, explicit and activities using fluorescent yarns with explicit features. This study aimed to propose the directions for new market pioneering that meets the emotional requirements of modern people by raising the level of utilization and expression area of knit fashion, and to present the constructive directions for high value-added knit wear by designing highly effective knit wear. Methods of this study examined the lifetime and artistic background of Keith Haring and collected his works through searching of internet, scholastic publications or thesis. Formative types and colors of works collected were analyzed and classified according to characteristic standards of Haring and characteristic formativeness and color of works were extracted. The result of this study is as shown below: First, the feature of his works can be summarized into motif that has symbolic and implicit cartoon-like lines including narratives as well as enormous number of works. Such feature is very suitable for variation and recombination in realization of design and has unlimited potentials for development. Second, image colors can be extracted such as black and white, original color and fluorescent paints, which reflects the intention of artist who put focus on communication with the public. Such color feature is very suitable for design motif that has explicitness of reflecting the intention of artist through use of special fluorescent yarn. Third, I made it as reversible wear that has effects of increasing or decreasing the explicitness according to color area ratio using the feature of textures allowing use of both sides as well as form stability of tubular jacquard. Fourth, by adjusting the thickness of fabric with controlling of ply in fabric using poly yarn and wool union yarn, I could obtain good results of study in terms of technique that can express various materials with embossed dynamic effects of unevenness on flat surface.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제16권4호
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• pp.645-652
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• 2014

This study identifies consumer needs and a pattern sensory evaluation of jacquard fabrics for raincoats using quick-drying-absorbing polyester. We investigate the consumer's consciousness and raincoat improvements. Twelve kinds of jacquard fabrics were developed for use in this study. Developed jacquard fabrics were assessed subjectively by 152 university students using a 7-point scale of 26 consumer needs and 31 pattern image sensory descriptors. Data were analyzed by SPSS. The major results were: There was a need for consumers to improve the front fastener type, cuff fastener, mesh patch position, and raincoat pocket position. The most important parameter to choose raincoat fabric was waterproof and the other parameters were vapor-porous/water repellent, design, color, fashionability, air-permeability and easy-put on/off. The pattern image sensibility of jacquard fabrics was explained by seven factors: gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic, ethnic, feminine, and cool. A higher pattern preference was found in the jacquard fabrics of unique, sporty, natural, luxurious, and trendy images. The pattern preference was predicted at 45.3% with gorgeous, simple, pure, cute, futuristic factors. The correlation coefficient between the pattern image sensibility factor 1 (gorgeous) and pattern preference was 0.674 and with factor 3 (cute) was 0.416, and with factor 6 (cool) was 0.209. The 4 factors (gorgeous, simple, cute, futuristic) were selected as a significant pattern image sensibility that influenced preference.

• 복식
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• 제55권4호
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• pp.95-106
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• 2005

The purpose of this study was to research the design methods to express jacquard design using CAD. For this study, two design patterns were divided; in addition, each design pattern is applied to two different weaving types, single woven fabric and double well cloths. As a result, 16 samples were produced by applying 4 design methods (warp shrunk as half size design/weft shrunk as half size design - A, warp shrunk as half size design/weft original size design - B, warp original size design/weft shrunk as half size design - C, warp original size design/weft original size design - D) to the two design patterns with the two weaving types. The result of this study can be summarized as follows. 1. The most delicate design method was Method D. However, Method B which took half the time less than Method D was almost as delicate as the Method D on the surface. 2. Method B was judged as a considerably efficient method for time and cost. 3. Method D was considered as most suitable for elaborate parts and delicate lines. However, it was considered uneconomical since it took the longest time. 4. Mettled A took 2.5 times less time than Method D. Therefore, Method A was more applicable to producing high density design. 5. Method C is not considered as a useful method as it showed rough surface and took long time by applying high design zoom except intentional design.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제27권6호
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• pp.715-724
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• 2003

The Korean clothing culture has shown rapid changes along with influences of western cultures, with social changes due to the liberation from Japan, the Korean War, and the economic growth concentrated on export since the westernization of Korea had begun. Also clothing materials, as a phase of such culture, have been changed. Among silk fabrics, "Dan (단: damask of satin texture with Korean traditional patterns are inwoven)", which has been concerned one of the most beautiful and precious fabrics due to its complexity and difficulty of processing. Since the beginning of the Era of Enlightenment(Kae-hwa-gi), Dan fabric materials and weaving methods have changed. It seems that the figured texture using the Jacquard loom began in 1936. when the Jacquard machine began to be imported from Japan into Korea. From that time on, new fabric materials, such as yangdan (양단), and popdan (법단), hobakdan (호박단), silk and rayon mixed Dan(교직양단) began to be produced. Before 1950's there were some restrictions about the Number of wefts, so the production of the one colored dan(단색단) was more common than that of the multi colored dan(다색단). But with the spread of 4$\times$4 shuttle box loom (양사정직기), various kinds of the multi colored dan have been produced after 1960's. Around the end of 1980's, automatic shuttle change loom have been generalized and 7 color dan(칠색단), 9 color gumsadan (구색금사단) have been current in multi colored dan. In terms of materials, synthetic and chemical textiles had been used widely and alter 1980's most fabrics, of which the ground weave is not being woven with satin-weave but being woven with plain or twill-weave, are named Dan in general.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제43권6호
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• pp.891-909
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• 2019

This study uses a documentary survey, field survey and textile's characteristics to understand the history of the Punggi Viscose Rayon. Punggi's textile industry grew as people migrated from Pyeongan Province in the 1900s. Little is known regarding early production conditions, but documents show cottage industries in the 1940s made union cloth using silk and rayon. The Punggi weaving industry peaked after the Korean War and declined in the late 1950s. Punggi rayon at that time was mainly used for lingerie or lining, with miliary or polka dot patterns. The industry regained momentum when the power loom was introduced in the 1960s. Manufacturers also started weaving union cloth with synthetic fibers and rayon. In the 1990s, jacquard looms enabled the weaving of elaborately colored and patterned textiles for outer fabric that made Punggi rayon famous. Most Punggi rayon looms have developed in the order of manual handlooms, semiautomatic looms, Jokdapgi, to power looms. Looms equipped with dobbies or jacquard devices also changed from wooden dobby looms to wooden jacquard looms and then to iron jacquard looms. Punggi Rayon currently has its own trademark and tag, but lacks specific regulations on the blending of fibers.

• 한국의류산업학회지
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• 제13권6호
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• pp.848-855
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• 2011

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 2 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, four woman's daily hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily hanboks were consisted of one set of jacket and trouser, durumagi, one set of jacket and skirt and one set of vest and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• 복식문화연구
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• 제18권5호
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• pp.908-922
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• 2010

The purpose of this study is to develop design for daily hanbok with Jacquard textile design developed by using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. This study will also develop Jacquard textile design that has elaborate and luxurious patterns and abundant expression of colors using the traditional patterns that suit the needs and lifestyles of the middle and old aged group. Developing daily Hanbok design for woman's casual and formal occasion will contribute to fashion business significantly by popularization of daily hanbok as one of the important fashion genre. The "Texpro Design CAD V8.21" program was used for the textile design. A total of 3 designs were developed as the Jacquard textile design with traditional patterns using lotus flower motifs. One type of fabric was produced for each of the textile design with a color selected from "Pantone Color Chips". And finally, three woman's daily Hanbok design for either casual or and formal style were developed and these daily Hanboks were consisted of Durumagi, one-piece dress, and one set of jacket and trouser. And the actual garments were constructed and the design procedure and the photos of these works were presented. This study showed the possibility of producing highly sensible daily hanbok that suits the fashion trend of middle aged women and the widening of consumer range and the creation of new market by developing Jacquard textile design.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제12권2호
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• pp.119-129
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• 2010

오늘날 인간의 수명이 연장되고, 웰빙과 건강에 대한 관심이 증가됨에 따라서 언제 어디서나 건강을 모니터링 할 수 있는 건강 스마트 의류 시스템이 개발되고 있다. 이를 위하여 최근에는 생체신호의 모니터링이 가능하도록 디자인된 의류에 통합된 형태의 직물 전극이 개발되고 있다. 혁신적으로 의류 시스템에 통합되어 착용 가능한 니트, 우븐, 자수방식의 텍스타일 전극에 대한 다양한 연구가 개발 제시되고 있으며, 이의 일부는 상용화되어 있다. 이에 본 연구는 경위사의 일정한 직조제어 자동화 시스템이 가능한 컴퓨터 자카드 직기의 캐드(CAD) 직조디자인 방식을 통하여 생체신호 센싱 기능이 향상된 새로운 텍스타일 전극디자인을 연구하고자 하였다. 이를 위하여 본 연구에서는 기존 생체신호 센싱 전극의 개발 및 연구 동향, 비직물/전극 타입에 대한 단점과 장점에 대한 비교 분석을 이론적으로 살펴보고, 자카드 직조 직물 기반으로 심전도 센싱용 텍스타일 전극을 디자인하여 실험 연구하였다. 자카드 직조 방식의 심전도 센싱용 직물 전극은 전극 인터페이스 디자인 방식, 이중직물형 직조 디자인 방식, 사가공 등의 요인들을 고려하여 개발하였다. 본 연구에서 도출된 최종 자카드 직조 직물 기반의 텍스타일 전극은 스마트 의류에 통합시킨 텍스타일 전극 모듈로서 적용되여 향후 상용화 방안을 모색할 수 있다.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제11권1호
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• pp.169-179
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• 2009

In order to preserve the Korean traditional gold foil, to develop as Korean traditional textile art by utilizing in modem fashion for textile industry, and to examine utility of the material which can be used in the modem wearing, interior goods and fashion terms, Textiles Applied Korean Traditional Gold Foil were developed. The results are as follows: First, important factors of the gold foil image should be extracted as materials quality, color and pattern, and modem and practical qualities should be proceeded when developing the image of the gold foil into modem quality material. Second, since gloss of fabric developed by a traditional method is somewhat strong, uniformity being a little bit low for hand-made manufacturing, and practical quality is low for high cost, deletion of the gold foil, etc. So it hasn't been appropriate for studying modem fashion material. Third, Jacquard weave has been examined as the most appropriate method in order to present the gold foil image among a number of textile manufacturing techniques Fourth, considering factors deciding the image of the gold foil and a sense of beauty of modem society, gloss of the foil has been lessened by expressing pattern to lower traditional quality and primary color. Fifth, pattern motives of developed materials have been extracted tram traditional gold foil patterns, and materials have been chosen considering of concepts and motives, and dragon pattern, crane pattern and bat pattern, Sixth, wearing, pin-up works, bed linen, fabrics for chairs, ties, bags, shoes, umbrellas, etc. are produced with the developed materials, and practical use and modern quality have been examined. The result is very satisfactory.

• 한국의상디자인학회지
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• 제9권3호
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• pp.151-166
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• 2007

The purpose of this study was to examine the Russian abstract artist Kazimir Malevich's works during the period of absolutism and thereupon, suggest some knitwear designs practical, decorative and creative. For this purpose, the researcher reviewed domestic and foreign literature, dissertations and academic journals to determine the Russian abstract fine art and the significance of Kazimir Malevich's works in the history of arts and thereupon, examined Malevich's works or the champions of absolutism in terms of their geometric formative elements or forms and colors. The results of this study can be summarized as follows; First, paintings may be important motives for the contemporary costume designs, while being a major driving power for development of some original designs depending on artists' personal thoughts and expression techniques. Second, this study is deemed to suggest creative and original techniques and motive applications for fashion designs by introducing the elements of Kazimir Malevich's paintings into costume designs, and provide for an opportunity to suggest new values by combining arts and fashion. Third, the knit jacquard technique, one of the major techniques for the knit design works using Kazimir Malevich's absolutism works, is considered a tubular jacquard featuring the deepest sense of thickness. The intarsia technique is preferred in the recent trend for light fabric because it features clear background patterns and allows for thinner fabric. Lastly, it is hoped that this study will serve to expand the domain of expression by means of an art marketing or meeting between arts and fashion in our contemporary industries.