• 한국잠사학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국잠사학회 2001년도 제44회 추계 학술연구 발표회
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• pp.52-52
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• 2001

no Abstract, See Full Text

• 복식
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• 제60권9호
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• pp.77-94
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• 2010

It was the era, from 1876 to 1910, that some dramatic changes, including an influx of foreign dyes and the beginning of the modern dyeing manufacture, happened in Korea. This paper explores what dyes were sold in the market in this period, who was the main seller of the goods, and how the dyers produced their products. A wide range of natural dye stuffs coexisted with the various kinds of aniline dyes, alizarin dye and synthetic indigo in the market. Coloring materials had been sold by hwapi-jeon, a group of official merchants who acquired a privilege of monopoly from the government. However, the dyes were also traded by sang-jeon and yakguk merchants in the nineteenth century. Most of the synthetic dyes sold in Korea were produced in Germany or in Japan later, and imported in large amount by Chinese, Japanese and German merchants. Yet there also existed Korean merchants and peddlers who sold the goods to the local consumers. Dyers were male and female who belonged to the middle class. They received the orders and payments from the government or merchants. Not only did they dye textiles, threads, cotton, paper and leather, but they also redyed clothes. Indigo dyers were differentiated from other dyers. Modern dyeing manufacture, which was presumably forced to keep pace with the productivity of the weaving process, appeared in the 1900s. It was a branch of the modern weaving manufacture.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제43권1호
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• pp.36-46
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• 2011

The purpose of this study was to manufacture colored Hanji for interior materials by combining color therapy and natural dyeing. To manufacture colored Changhoji for interior materials, seven species of dyestuff were selected as a results of preliminary natural dyeing. As mordants, 0.5% $AlK(SO_4)_2{\cdot}12H_20$ and 0.5% $Cu(CH_3COO)_2{\cdot}H_2O$ solution were used respectively. To estimate natural dyeing properties of Changhoji, the value of $L^*,\;a^*,\;b^*$ and Munsell HV/C were measured by spectrophotometer. The super eight colors produced as follows; red from safflower, orang from goldthread and gardenia, yellow from turmeric, green and turquoise from indigo and pagoda tree flower, violet and magenta from sappanwood, and blue from indigo.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.221-233
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• 1994

In several literature in China were recorded various species of the indigo genus, but in Chosen documents, the two have been intensively mentioned, that is, Polygonum tinctorium (PT) and liatis Tinctuna(IT). Allowing for some slight contradictions of the records between the two countries, we insist that J)T is the aborigines historically longer than any other indigo plant in Korea and that IT is the one Implanted from China in late Chosen period. Indigos can be grouped into two major categories : 'Chon' or Indigo forming sediment in the course of making, and 'Nam' or the one without. The dyestuffs of blue, or dark blue tineged with red, which had been ocasionally recorded until the mid Chosen, could be made from the . species without sediment. The period when the color thus obtained was prevalent can be traced back to the era of Yongio, when the import of blue-dyed textiles from China was prohibited to encourage the domestic dyeing industry. However, a more clarification is needed on this matter, since all of the previous researches are arguing, with little validity, that the indigo genus in Korea be PT. Judging from the documents recording that PT did not form any sediment, and that from it was obtained only light color like indigo, it is a matter of re-discussion in terms of botanical taxonomy to define as PT the species being cultivated in some areas in Chollanam-do. In conclusion, a joint research, including specialists in traditional dyestuffs and in botany in relation to the taxonomical problem of the indigo genus, would be expected for further Investigation on this matter.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.20-28
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• 1998

Natural indigo colorants were prepared by extraction of polygonum tintorium which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). The components were analyzed by TLC and HPLC, and its structures were analyzed by FT-IR, EI-mass and NMR. The dyeing mechanism and fermentation conditions were investigated. Its colour fastness was studied as well. The results obtained are summarized as follows ; The natural indigo powder was dissolved in DMSO and developed in eluent, $CHCl_3/CH_3CN(8.5:1.5v/v)$ by means of TLC for its quality analysis. It was segregated into indirubin as il red colour and indigo as a blue colour. In case of HPLC analysis, the retention times of indirubin and indigo were 7.442 and 6.543, respectively. FT-IR spectrum of indirubin showed a peak for NH residue between 3200 and $3300cm^{-1}.^1H-NMR$ spectrum for indigo displayed AA'BB' spin system caused by indole structure between 6.5 and 7.7ppm of H4, 5, 6 and 7, and -NH proton for indirubin showed an singlet between 10.88 and. 11.0ppm. EI-mass spectrum of indigo an d indirubin both disclosed their molecular size as 262 and it implies that these two substances are isomer.

• 한국잠사곤충학회지
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• 제47권1호
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• pp.31-35
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• 2005

전통 쪽 염료제조 및 염색 방법을 개선하기 위하여 시험한 결과 다음과 같은 결과를 얻었다. 1. 전통 족 염료 제조에 사용하는 꼬막껍질태운가루의 3 g/l 넣을 경우의 수용액의 pH 12.30 정도이었다. 2. 쪽 풀을 2일간 물에 침지를 하였을 경우가 염료의 K/S 값이 2.49로 가장 높았고, 명도 값이 5.03으로 가장 낮았으므로 색상이 가장 짙었다. 3. 볏짚 잿물과 꼬막 껍질 태운가루 양과의 관계를 염료 염색 상태를 보았을 때 3일째부터 염색이 되어5일 째까지의 염색이 가능 하였다. 4. 발효 온도 별로 꼬막껍질 태운가루의 사용량에 따른 발효 상태를 본 결과는 $30^{\circ}C$에서 발효할 경우 3~4g/l일 경우가 K/S 값이 가장 높았다. 5. 쪽 염료 발효 시 사용한 물엿 양은 20 g/l을 사용한 구가 염색 직물의 K/S값이 가장 높은 3.10이었으며, 염색 온도는 $30$~$50^{\circ}C$에서 비슷하며, 염료의 구성 성분도 인디루빈과 인디고 2개의 색소로 구성되었다. 6. 염료의 색소 및 염색 직물의 항균력은 99.8%로 우수하였고, 색소간의 차이는 없었으나 소취성은 sodium hydrosulfite(개선)첨가 발효 방법이 높았다.

• 펄프종이기술
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• 제48권3호
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• pp.57-65
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• 2016

Indigo (Polygonum tinctorium L.) is a typical blue dye which had been used from ancient times. This study was going to shade the complicated traditional methods extracting indigo dye by the fermentation and producing as adsorbate on calcium hydroxide, which says so called as the 'Indigo lime'. Accordingly we were going to make indigo through the hydrolysis of the hot water extractives of indigo leaves simply. During hot-water extraction, ${\beta}$-glucosidase which required hydrolysis of the linkage between indigo and glucose was not activated. To achieve this goal, indican was acid-hydrolyzed to glucose and indigo. The acetic acid, citric acid, hydrochloric acid, and sulfuric acid were used for the hydrolysis of hot water extractives. The hydrolysis conditions of extractives performed in water bath at $80^{\circ}C$ for 120 minutes and in an autoclave for 120 minutes. In the acid hydrolysis of extracted indican by hot water, the indican yields of acetic acid and hydrochloric acid hydrolysis were higher than sulfuric acid in water bath. Also, the indican yield of hydrochloric acid hydrolysis was better than sulfuric acid in autoclave. The hot water extracted indican was confirmed by HPLC analysis and its structure was confirmed by UV-Vis and FT-IR spectroscopy, compared with isolated indigo and commercial synthesized indigo. This improved extraction and hydrolysis methods can be replace the traditional indigo making method.

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2009년도 학술발표대회
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• pp.134-135
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• 2009

• 한국염색가공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국염색가공학회 2008년도 제39차 학술발표회
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• pp.93-94
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• 2008

The color mixture by using indigo and Japanese pagoda is worked on rayon, which is made of cellulose, to diversify colors of natural dyes. The process which is using indigo first and then Japanese pagoda can be allowed various possibilities of color combination than that of using Japanese pagoda first. And also the color mixture with the use of mordant which is using indigo first and then Japanese pagoda can be expected more effective to get diverse colors than that of using Japanese pagoda first.

• 복식
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• 제52권2호
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• pp.91-101
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• 2002

In order to development of culture goods I made works with various color's silk fabrics dyed with water extract or methanol extract of plants. The Plants used for dyeing as dyeing material were indigo, safflower, amur cock tree, onion's Peel, citrus peel, mugwort, gromwell, sappan wood. Each of Plants were extracted by each of temperature and time. The mordants used for various color chanties are aluminium sulfate, cupric acetate mono hydrate, ferrous chloride. With fabrics of various color dyed like this I made works which give expression to an easy and natural image of the Korean nation of fabrics.