• 복식문화연구
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• 제19권3호
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• pp.612-621
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• 2011

The process of making or cultivating indigo dyes is very cumbersome and complex. The dye extraction and dyeing methods using general plant dye, moth repellent dye, fast acting natural dye, and other dyes are very different. This research investigates the extraction of indigo dye and liquid dye extraction of polygonum(indigo) plants using calcium oxide water. While extracting indigo dye the concentration of purified indigo dye may be controlled by adjusting the pH level. Due to the various uses of dyes the adjustment of surface color must be considered. In regard to the change according to different concentrations of reducing agents, it was found that cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics show the highest color difference at 0.4% and 0.3% respectively. As the reduction temperature increases, the color difference increases as well. The maximum color difference was found to appear at $90^{\circ}C$. Cotton fabrics and ramie fabrics showed 70.55 and 67.01 respectively. The color difference increases as the concentration of dyes increases, but at a concentration of 300%, cotton fabrics was found to show 6.22PB in H value using the Munsell color system, containing purple and blue color. The pH of the polygonum dyes extracted through this experiment were adjusted by adding calcium oxide to the experimental water, without directly adding calcium oxide to the liquid polygonum extract. In a refine state, it was mixed with polygonum extract to extract a more refine and highly concentrated indigo dye. When lye and reducing agents are added to extracted indigo dye and sealed for long-term storage, it can be effective and easily used for dyeing.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제38권4호
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• pp.540-556
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• 2014

This research investigated the effective conditions to dye cotton with commercial indigo leaf powder. We tested dyeing conditions of: pH of dyebath (6.5, 9-12), heating ($20^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$, $90^{\circ}C$), ageing (0, 0.5, 1, 4, 24 hours), reduction time (0, 30, 60 min), and dyeing temperature ($2^{\circ}C$, $10^{\circ}C$, $20^{\circ}C$, $50^{\circ}C$, $70^{\circ}C$, $80^{\circ}C$), dyeing was conducted for 20 minutes. The highest K/S value was obtained when cotton was dyed using pH 11 dyebath, heated at $50^{\circ}C$ for 30 minutes, aged for 24 hours at room temperature ($20^{\circ}C$), reduction carried out for 30 minutes, and dyed at $50^{\circ}C$. It is proposed that the K/S value is primarily influenced by the dyebath pH and dyeing temperature, followed by the presence or absence of ageing time and reduction time. The color of cotton with high K/S values was B type by Munsell hue value, which was similar to the color obtained in previous studies by freshly made indigo leaf powder and indigo leaf juice. The results indicate that the dyeing conditions established in this research are suitable to maximize the dyeability of commercial indigo leaf powder and that the indigo leaf powder can be used as a substitute for fresh indigo leaf juice.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제35권2호
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• pp.82-96
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• 2023

The purpose of this study is to enhance the usability of hanji fabrics by expanding the color space of hanji fabrics. For the expression of various colors of hanji fabrics, single and combination dyeing were carried out using natural indigo(Niram, Polygonum tinctorium), marigold extract colorant, and madder extract colorant for three types of hanji fabrics with different fiber compositions(hanji, hanji/cotton, hanji/silk). The light, medium, and deep colors obtained through individual single dyeing were shown to be PB Munsell colors in the case of indigo dyeing, Y color for marigold dyeing, and R color for madder dyeing. For combination dyeing, indigo dyeing was first carried out under the conditions for light, medium, and deep colors, respectively, and marigold or madder dyeing was performed thereafter. Indigo and marigold combination dyeing produced PB, B, BG, G, and GY Munsell colors and indigo and madder combination dyeing produced PB, P, RP, and R Munsell colors. Overall, the color change of hanji/silk fabric was more diverse than that of hanji fabric and hanji/cotton fabric. In the indigo, marigold, and madder combination dyeing into individual deep colors, blackish PB and P Munsell colors was obtained. Colorfastness to washing, dry cleaning, rubbing, and light were relatively good with above rating 4. Finally, 9 colors excluding YR color out of 10 Munsell color were obtained. We confirmed that the expansion of the color space of Hanji fabrics by the single and combination dyeing with indigo, marigold, and madder.

• 한국작물학회지
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• 제51권spc1호
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• pp.247-250
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• 2006

본 연구는 polyamine이 쪽 모상근 배양에서 뿌리의 생장과 indigo 생합성에 미치는 영향을 조사하였다. 1. 토양미생물인 Agrobacterium rhizogenes R1000을 이용하여 쪽 자엽으로부터 모상근을 효과적으로 유도하여 배양하였다. 2. 모상근 생장과 인디고 생합성이 polyamines(putrescine, spaermidine, spermine) 처리에 의하여 향상되었으며, 그 중 putrescine이 다른 polyamines에 비하여 효과적이었다. 3. Putrescine 70 mg/l 처리가 모상근의 생육(4.4 g/flask)과 인디고 생합성(216.3 ug/g)의 향상에 최적조건으로 조사되었다.

• 대한가정학회지
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• 제45권4호
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• pp.53-59
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• 2007

We need to diversify the colors by natural dyeing for promotion and extention of the natural dyes market, because natural dyestuffs have the limitation the number of the colors to express, compare to synthetic dyestuffs. It was investigated that wool and silk fabrics could be dyed to green colors using natural mugwort and indigo as one of color diversification, in order to express green color that is difficult to be shown by natural dyeing. The mugwort dyebath was prepared to concentration of $25{\sim}100g/l$ using dried mugwort plant and indigo dyebath was prepared to concentration of $5{\sim}20g/l$ using natural indigo powder. Wool fabrics and silk fabrics were dyed to green(GY, G, BG in Munsell color wheel) by two batch methods using the mugwort and indigo dyebaths. the mugwort dyeing was applied at $80^{\circ}C$ for 20minutes and indigo dyeing applied for $5{\sim}7$ minutes in room temperature. The colorfastness to drycleaning and abrasion of the dyed fabrics were shown good as grade 4-5 or 5.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제32권8호
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• pp.1286-1298
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• 2008

This study was attempted to examine the indigo dyeing technique in the latter Joseon Dynasty, and to find diachronic specifics in the indigo dyeing method from 17C to 19C. The results are as follows: First, There were 2 kinds of indigo species-Yoram(Polygonum tinctorium Lour.) and Sungram(Isatis tinctoria L.)-in the latter Joseon Dynasty. Dangram was preferred in particular among Yoram species because of its high dyeing efficiency. Sungram was mainly used for making Jeon(indigo sediment). Second, Yoram cultivation took the following order: Sowing in April${\rightarrow}$planting out in June${\rightarrow}$harvesting leaves in August${\rightarrow}$collecting seeds in September. Sungram had more harvesting times and wider harvesting period than Yoram. Third, all indigo dyeing methods were grouped into two categories, one was temporary dyeing method, the other was permanent dyeing method. Mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, raw leaves dyeing, and fermentation dyeing belonged to the temporary dyeing. Jeon dyeing and Gaeogi dyeing belonged to the permanent dyeing. Finally, diachronic specifics from 17C to 19C were as follows: Decline in the mixture dyeing of the boiled and the raw, development in the raw leaves dyeing, continuance of the fermentation dyeing, and naturalization of Jeon dyeing technique.

• 한국의류학회지
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• 제18권2호
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• pp.221-233
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• 1994

In several literature in China were recorded various species of the indigo genus, but in Chosen documents, the two have been intensively mentioned, that is, Polygonum tinctorium (PT) and liatis Tinctuna(IT). Allowing for some slight contradictions of the records between the two countries, we insist that J)T is the aborigines historically longer than any other indigo plant in Korea and that IT is the one Implanted from China in late Chosen period. Indigos can be grouped into two major categories : 'Chon' or Indigo forming sediment in the course of making, and 'Nam' or the one without. The dyestuffs of blue, or dark blue tineged with red, which had been ocasionally recorded until the mid Chosen, could be made from the . species without sediment. The period when the color thus obtained was prevalent can be traced back to the era of Yongio, when the import of blue-dyed textiles from China was prohibited to encourage the domestic dyeing industry. However, a more clarification is needed on this matter, since all of the previous researches are arguing, with little validity, that the indigo genus in Korea be PT. Judging from the documents recording that PT did not form any sediment, and that from it was obtained only light color like indigo, it is a matter of re-discussion in terms of botanical taxonomy to define as PT the species being cultivated in some areas in Chollanam-do. In conclusion, a joint research, including specialists in traditional dyestuffs and in botany in relation to the taxonomical problem of the indigo genus, would be expected for further Investigation on this matter.

• 한국염색가공학회지
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• 제10권3호
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• pp.20-28
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• 1998

Natural indigo colorants were prepared by extraction of polygonum tintorium which was harvested just in the blooming season(in the late of July). The components were analyzed by TLC and HPLC, and its structures were analyzed by FT-IR, EI-mass and NMR. The dyeing mechanism and fermentation conditions were investigated. Its colour fastness was studied as well. The results obtained are summarized as follows ; The natural indigo powder was dissolved in DMSO and developed in eluent, $CHCl_3/CH_3CN(8.5:1.5v/v)$ by means of TLC for its quality analysis. It was segregated into indirubin as il red colour and indigo as a blue colour. In case of HPLC analysis, the retention times of indirubin and indigo were 7.442 and 6.543, respectively. FT-IR spectrum of indirubin showed a peak for NH residue between 3200 and $3300cm^{-1}.^1H-NMR$ spectrum for indigo displayed AA'BB' spin system caused by indole structure between 6.5 and 7.7ppm of H4, 5, 6 and 7, and -NH proton for indirubin showed an singlet between 10.88 and. 11.0ppm. EI-mass spectrum of indigo an d indirubin both disclosed their molecular size as 262 and it implies that these two substances are isomer.

• Journal of Microbiology and Biotechnology
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• 제7권3호
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• pp.197-199
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• 1997

Escherichia coli recombinants containing the cloned phenol hydroxylase gene of Bacillus stearothermophilus BR219 were shown to produce both indigo and its structural isomer indirubin during culture on LB broth. The ratio of indirubin/indigo was highest under conditions of prolonged culture and reduced culture oxygenation.

• 한국생물공학회:학술대회논문집
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• 한국생물공학회 2000년도 춘계학술발표대회
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• pp.470-473
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• 2000

Indole은 미생물에 강한 독성을 가지고 있으므로 indole의 생물학적 전환이 어려우므로 단지 소수의 미생물들이 Indole이나 그것의 연관물질들로부터 Indigo와 Indirubin을 생산하는데 응용되어 왔다. 본 연구실에서 분리된 Pseudomonas savastanoi BCNU 106은 toluene에 강한 내성을 가졌으며 P. savastanoi BCNU 106의 Indole 내성 정도는 p-xylene이나 toluene이 배지 부피의 20% 로 첨가되었을 때 160 mg/ml로 매우 높은 내성 정도를 나타내었다. Indole (100 mg/ml) 과 p-xylene (0.2 ml/ml)을 포함한 two-phase culture system에서 자란 P. savastanoi BCNU 106은 indole로부터 푸른색 indigo나 보라색 indirubin의 미생물학적 전환을 보여주었다. indigo와 indirubin의 생산은 P. savastanoi BCNU 106가 적절한 농도의 유기용매가 중층된 two-phase system에서 자랐을 경우에만 형성되었다. 그러므로 본 연구는, 분리된 indole 내성 세균이 유기용매하에서 indirubin과 같은 산업적 가치를 가진 유용물질을 생산하는데 응용될 수 있을 것으로 사료된다.