• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.24 no.1
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• pp.59-69
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• 2022

Vyshyvanka, the embroidered folk costume shirt of Ukraine, originated during the early reign of the Slavs, and currently, it is also called Ukrainian embroidery. In cases of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements, it is necessary to research formative characteristics for expanding the visual aspect through the diversification of techniques, but also the aspect of the psychological meaning to Ukrainians. This study aims to consider Vyshyvanka as a unique embroidery technique, and also analyze the formative characteristics expressed in apparel elements. The study of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements can present meaning to understanding the Ukrainian fashion. The image materials for the analysis of Vyshyvanka design, included work photos contained in literary materials and foreign online visual materials. The results of formatively analyzing the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel are as follows. First, the Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements held an incantatory meaning, protecting wearers from getting easily invaded by evil spirits. Second, the Vyshyvanka patterns utilized symbolism that implied the incantatory meaning. Third, a single color was used for the embroidery. Lastly, materials like cotton, that are easy to embroider, were mostly used. The formative characteristics of Vyshyvanka embroidery expressed in apparel elements implied the community spirit, nature worship, and folk beliefs. As an attempt to understand the Ukrainian fashion, this study is significant in the aspect of expanding, widely utilizing, and expanding the range of understanding of Ukrainian fashion. Therefore, there should be more active researches on Ukrainian fashion, so Vyshyvanka can be more widely used as a design element.

• Journal of the Korean Home Economics Association
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• v.41 no.9
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• pp.43-54
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• 2003

The purpose of study is to survey the system of the Korean Gangsin-mu shaman costume and its formative character and to fine out the traditional follow patterns of government officials' attires and Po's meaning of it. The overall shape of variety 'Po's in modern times are similar to the traditional ones, but they differ greatly in size, detail color, and ornamental design. The sleeves have slits in the armholes, which can allow the hands to be drawn out easily. In addition, the knot buttons are used in the modern costumes. They are based on different formation skills from those of the traditional The original color of the shaman's costume is not their taste in color but symbolic, modern costumes color show the shaman's taste in color. This change mean a more accentuated visual effect than incantatory meaning. Another reason for color change is also the costume's material. A kind of constituent element uses synthetic fiber in modern times.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
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• v.5 no.2
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• pp.169-180
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• 1997

The purpose of this study is to extract 'the Rite of Passage'from a Korean novel, 'HON-BUL', and to analysis intrinsic meanings and function of the symbols, their personal meanings and social meanings from it. A pragmatical method was used for the analysis of this research. The results were as followings : The meaning of the Rite of Passage and the Costumes had mainly incantatory characters ; son-wish, wealth, amicable relations between a husband and a wife, long life, and perpetual thought. But the amount of grasping of meaning was thought to be depended on the reading ability of readers. Since the Wedding Ceremony and the Funeral Ceremony were described a lot of times in the novel, it was known that they were regarded as very important Rite of Passage in the whole life. The TEXT which were cited from the novel showed that the Rite of Passage was traditionally described as the Birth Ceremony, the Wedding Ceremony (includes the Puberty Ceremony), and the Funeral Ceremony. The analysis of meaning in a novel had an important roll to understand CULTURE, SOCIAL LIFE, and TIMES in a written novel. Therefore a novel is very valuable to analyze them as the DISCOURSE and the TEXT.

• Journal of the Korea Fashion and Costume Design Association
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• v.4 no.2
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• pp.139-161
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• 2002

This study investigates the characteristics of Nordic sweaters works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) development of Nordic sweaters, 2) the characteristics of Nordic sweaters industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns, 4) the symbolic meaning of the designs in the Nordic sweaters and patterns. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. It was also developed in Scandinavian regions which lead the fashion in modern days. Scandinavian knitting techniques have been diffused into the east coast of England and Northern Europe by Vikings. 2. Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. 1) Norway ; Simple and geometric Norwegian patterns are classified into three groups of motifs: (a) the motifs of cross, diamond, X, and swastika (equation omitted). (b) the motifs of human figures, animals and birds, (c) floral motifs (especially eight-petal roses). Their use of color is also simple, and is limited to more than two colors. (2) Sweden ; Swedish patterns are colorful and geometric. They are characterized by features such as brocade, complex embroidery, and contrast of red and black colors. They also show Guernsey patterns. Initials and production years were knitted in sweaters which have different patterns in their trunks and sleeves. 3) Denmark ; The Danish pattern is the purl stitch knitted against the stockinette stitch. The technique is used to copy woven damask motifs. The patterns are seen most clearly when they are knit with smooth yarn. The Faeroe sweaters are the representative work of Danish knitting. Faeroe knitting, incorporates stranded pattern and is knit in the round, either with circular needles. 4) Finland ; Finnish patterns are similar to Norwegian patterns. Finnish knitted work show very colorful, variety and free-flowing geometric patterns. 5) Iceland ; Icelandic knitting shows original ribbon pattern. Lope sweater is the representative work. 3. The traditional knitting patterns not only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns. In short, the knitted work in the Nordic sweaters served the function of admiring the beauty of nature and symbolizing various meanings. The unique designs and colors of the knitted work reflected the characteristics of the culture those works belonged to. This study also turns our attention to the issue of how the traditional colors and designs of the knitted work can contribute to the development of modern designs, and by doing so, if makes us realize the importance of knitted works in modern society.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
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• v.50 no.7
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• pp.195-218
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• 2000

This study investigates the characteristics of European knitted works from a historical perspective. Specifically, this study deals with the following research topics: 1) the origin and development of knitting. 2) the characteristics of knitting industry according to the change of times, 3) the comparison of local knitting patterns and cultures. 4) 7he symbolic meaning of the designs in the knitted works and theire functions. This research is barred on the survey of the relevant literature and photographs. The results of the study are summarized as follows. 1) The introduction of knitted works was closely connected with the climatic and socio-economic conditions of the places of the origin. Knitted work developed mostly in Northern Europe, a cold area, and the barren, mountainous coastal areas where people frequently used woolen materials for clothes. 2) In ancient times, abstract and geometric patterns have developed in Europe under the influence of Arabian knitted work. Middle Ages saw the flourishing of Arabian knitted works representing the authority of the church. In early modern times, the knitted work assumed the wealth of the royal families and the nobles. But afterward it was gradually Popularized among the middle classes. Knitting was then regarded as one of the women's major cultural activities. However, recently in the interwar periods. the knitting industry did not flourish and the knitted works came to serve merely as comfort goods by political urge. Knitted works were introduced in Korea around 1870 (the 7th or 8th year of king Kojong era) by Catholic missionaries and they started to be made by machine in 1917. 3) As for the propagation of the knitted work into Europe, there are three routes estimated. The traditional knitting patterns of local areas and their characteristics are summed up as follows : (1) England Guernseys are thick dark blue wool, whereas Jerseys are thinner and of various colors. The knitted shawls of Shetland are world-famous for their fine, lace-like texture that they can be through a wedding-ring. The knitted work of Fair Isle shows several distinctive features, such as the use of no more than two colors, patterns with diagonal lines. symmetry within the patterns, the prominent OXO patterns, and horizontal bands of patterning. The representative knitted work of Aran is Aran sweater made for fishermen to developed from guernseys of Scotland. (2) Scandinavian countries are distinguished from other countries by their conservative but creative cultural tradition. Their knitting patterns are characterized by small geometric figures such as dots, triangles, squares, rhombuses, and crosses used often with stars and roses. Scandinavian knitting is also salient for its vertical stripes and simple motifs repeating at short intervals. (3) Baltic area : The Latvian and Lithuania stockings have very ornate patterns. Many of the Estonian knit stockings and mittens share designs. Komi was well-known for its symmetric diamond pattern. Komi patterns include colored stripes, borders of pattern and all-over designs of complex diagonals. (4) Balkan area : In Yugoslavia, the patterns of roses, leaves and flowers were used for stockings, gloves and leggings. Greek knitting resembled southern Russian knitting, which utilized light colored patterns with dark colors for a background. Turkish patterns are symmetric vertically or horizontally. 4) The traditional knitting patterns net only carried symbolic meanings but also served as means of communication. First of all, patterns had incantatory meanings. Patterns also represented Power or authenticity Patterns were symbolic of one's social standing, too. The colors, motifs and their arrangements were very important features symbolizing one's social position or family line. People often communicated by certain pieces of knitted work or patterns.

• Journal of the Korean Institute of Rural Architecture
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• v.12 no.4
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• pp.77-86
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• 2010

This study is about Tak Mok theory of feng-shui ideology which was main thought in Choson dynasty or some other thoughts and noble families' thought of garden building : planting trees and properties of the noble families garden. The result from the study of noble family's garden molding is as follows. In the noble family's garden molding, there were considerations of plant ecology known through long experience and the functional aspect of planting tree and esthetic sense of housing circumstances, in addition to feng-shui thought, Taoist thought and the doctrine of the five natural elements of the positive vs. negative. We can learn Choson's noble family's garden included playroom as well as symbolic and incantatory meaning. Also in the thought of noble family's garden molding we can found proper element for modern housing plan such as an ecological peculiarity or functional aspect of dwelling circumstance. And we can also found they didn't show a rejection symptoms against nature but enclosed with straight form which was traditional trait, and each space of it is composed organically. Also we knew they selected a diverse and refined technique with it's decorating the Choson dynasty playful and meditative space. We found that the key point of the thought of noble family's garden molding were on the basis of Confucianal mood, content amid poverty thought and free technique of it.