• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.30 no.6
• /
• pp.484-497
• /
• 2016

In order to understand the characteristics of the topography change in front of an impermeable breakwater, a coupled model for a two-way analysis of the existing LES-WASS-2D and newly developed morphodynamic model was suggested. A comparison to existing experimental results revealed that the results computed using the 2-D hydro-morphodynamic model were in good agreement with the experimental results for the wave form, pore water pressure in the seabed, and topographical change in front of a submerged breakwater. It was shown that the two-way model suggested in this study is applicable to a morphological change in the seabed around a submerged breakwater. Then, using the numerical results, the topographical changes in front of an impermeable submerged breakwater were examined in relation to partial standing waves. Moreover, the characteristics of the local scour depths in front of them are also discussed in relation to incident wave conditions, sediment qualities, and submerged breakwater shapes.

• KSCE Journal of Civil and Environmental Engineering Research
• /
• v.34 no.5
• /
• pp.1463-1476
• /
• 2014

In order to understand hydrodynamic and morphodynamic characteristics under wave-current interactions in an estuary, a coupled model for two-way analysis between existing 3-d numerical wave tank and newly-developed 3-d morphodynamic model has been suggested. Comparing to existing experimental results it is revealed that computed results of the newly-suggested model are in good agreement with each laboratory test result for wave height distribution, vertical flow profile and topographical change around ocean floor pipeline in wave-current coexisting field. Also the numerical result for suspended sediment concentration is verified in comparison with experimental result in solitary wave field. Finally, it is shown that the 3-D coupled Hydro-Morphodynamic model suggested in this study is applicable to morphological change under wave-current interaction in an estuary.

• Journal of Ocean Engineering and Technology
• /
• v.33 no.6
• /
• pp.581-589
• /
• 2019

In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
• /
• v.6 no.1
• /
• pp.61-97
• /
• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.