• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제30권6호
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• pp.484-497
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• 2016

In order to understand the characteristics of the topography change in front of an impermeable breakwater, a coupled model for a two-way analysis of the existing LES-WASS-2D and newly developed morphodynamic model was suggested. A comparison to existing experimental results revealed that the results computed using the 2-D hydro-morphodynamic model were in good agreement with the experimental results for the wave form, pore water pressure in the seabed, and topographical change in front of a submerged breakwater. It was shown that the two-way model suggested in this study is applicable to a morphological change in the seabed around a submerged breakwater. Then, using the numerical results, the topographical changes in front of an impermeable submerged breakwater were examined in relation to partial standing waves. Moreover, the characteristics of the local scour depths in front of them are also discussed in relation to incident wave conditions, sediment qualities, and submerged breakwater shapes.

• 대한토목학회논문집
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• 제34권5호
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• pp.1463-1476
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• 2014

본 연구에서는 파랑과 흐름이 공존하는 하구 주변의 수리특성 및 지형변동특성을 이해하기 위하여 새롭게 3차원 지형변동 모델을 개발함과 더불어 3차원 파동장 모델과 양방향 연성 수치모델을 제안하였다. 그리고 파랑-흐름 공존장에서의 파고분포, 연직유속분포, 해저파이프라인 저면의 지형변동 및 고립파 내습 시에 해빈 저면 부유사 농도의 시간분포에 관한 수리모형실험결과들과 비교 분석하여 개발한 연성 수치모델을 검증하였다. 이로써 본 연구에서 개발한 연성 수치모델의 타당성 및 유효성을 확보할 수 있을 뿐만 아니라, 이 연성 수치모델이 파랑과 흐름이 공존하는 하구지역의 지형변동 예측에 적용이 가능한 것을 확인하였다.

• 한국해양공학회지
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• 제33권6호
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• pp.581-589
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• 2019

In order to understand the characteristics of beach deformation, in this study, numerical simulations were conducted using a 3-D hydro-morphodynamic model (HYMO-WASS-3D) to analyze the characteristics of beach deformation due to the coastal groundwater levels. HYMO-WASS-3D directly analyzed the nonlinear interaction between the hydrodynamic and morphodynamic processes in the coastal area. The simulation results of HYMO-WASS-3D showed good agreement with the experimental results on the changes in the profile of the beach in the surf and swash zones. Then, numerical simulations were conducted to examine the characteristics of beach deformation due to the variation of the level of the coastal groundwater. As a result, the beach profiles were examined in relation to the wave breaking in the surf zone and the wave uprush and backwash in the swash zone due to the differences in the water levels. This paper also discussed the temporal and spatial distributions of the velocities, vorticities, and suspended sediments in the surf and swash zones with various levels of the coastal groundwater.

• Ocean Systems Engineering
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• 제6권1호
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• pp.61-97
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• 2016

This is the second of two papers on the 3D numerical modeling of nearshore hydro- and morphodynamics. In Part I, the focus was on surf and swash zone hydrodynamics in the cross-shore and longshore directions. Here, we consider nearshore processes with an emphasis on the effects of oceanic forcing and beach characteristics on sediment transport in the cross- and longshore directions, as well as on foreshore bathymetry changes. The Delft3D and XBeach models were used with four turbulence closures (viz., ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$, ${\kappa}-L$, ATM and H-LES) to solve the 3D Navier-Stokes equations for incompressible flow as well as the beach morphology. The sediment transport module simulates both bed load and suspended load transport of non-cohesive sediments. Twenty sets of numerical experiments combining nine control parameters under a range of bed characteristics and incident wave and tidal conditions were simulated. For each case, the general morphological response in shore-normal and shore-parallel directions was presented. Numerical results showed that the ${\kappa}-{\varepsilon}$ and H-LES closure models yield similar results that are in better agreement with existing morphodynamic observations than the results of the other turbulence models. The simulations showed that wave forcing drives a sediment circulation pattern that results in bar and berm formation. However, together with wave forcing, tides modulate the predicted nearshore sediment dynamics. The combination of tides and wave action has a notable effect on longshore suspended sediment transport fluxes, relative to wave action alone. The model's ability to predict sediment transport under propagation of obliquely incident wave conditions underscores its potential for understanding the evolution of beach morphology at field scale. For example, the results of the model confirmed that the wave characteristics have a considerable effect on the cumulative erosion/deposition, cross-shore distribution of longshore sediment transport and transport rate across and along the beach face. In addition, for the same type of oceanic forcing, the beach morphology exhibits different erosive characteristics depending on grain size (e.g., foreshore profile evolution is erosive or accretive on fine or coarse sand beaches, respectively). Decreasing wave height increases the proportion of onshore to offshore fluxes, almost reaching a neutral net balance. The sediment movement increases with wave height, which is the dominant factor controlling the beach face shape.