• Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles
• /
• v.41 no.1
• /
• pp.28-42
• /
• 2017

Moisture transfer characteristics of high emotional garments are important to evaluate wear comfort. Wicking and drying measurement methods are also critical for perspiration absorption and quick dry fabric made of high functional fibers. In this study, the wicking and drying properties of high emotional fabrics made from hybrid composite yarns using CoolMax, Tencel, Bamboo staple fibers and PP. PET CoolMax filaments were also measured and analyzed according to various measuring methods. The wicking property of hybrid composite yarn fabrics by Bireck method was mostly influenced by the structure of hybrid yarns than the absorption rate of constituent fibers; however, both the hygroscopicity of fibers and the composite yarn structure affected the wicking property of the fabrics in the drop method. Concerning drying properties, the KSK 0815B method measuring distilled moisture weight was more relevant to explain the drying characteristics of hybrid yarn fabrics than the KSK 0815A method measuring the time to drying. This study revealed that the drying properties of hybrid yarn fabrics were influenced by the hygroscopicity of constituent fibers, wicking properties of constituent yarns and structure of composite yarns.

• Journal of Broadcast Engineering
• /
• v.16 no.5
• /
• pp.782-792
• /
• 2011

In this paper, we address a new fast DCT-II/DFT/HWT hybrid transform architecture for digital video and fusion mobile handsets based on Jacket-like sparse matrix decomposition. This fast hybrid architecture is consist of source coding standard as MPEG-4, JPEG 2000 and digital filtering discrete Fourier transform, and has two operations: one is block-wise inverse Jacket matrix (BIJM) for DCT-II, and the other is element-wise inverse Jacket matrix (EIJM) for DFT/HWT. They have similar recursive computational fashion, which mean all of them can be decomposed to Kronecker products of an identity Hadamard matrix and a successively lower order sparse matrix. Based on this trait, we can develop a single chip of fast hybrid algorithm architecture for intelligent mobile handsets.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.58 no.8
• /
• pp.91-105
• /
• 2008

Spatial multiplication phenomenon, expressed through de-constructive trend since the late of 20C, have got changed existing fixed and dis-variable space to smooth, fluid, and changeable space. Ex-form and fluidity of new spatial paradigm have been focused through lots of scientific theories studied between digital thought and indeterminacy and rankless nature phenomena. In 21C fashion, indeterminate and irregular form and space have been crested continuously, which could not explain simply according as the fluidity theory Different from the space crested for multi-function and multipurpose, this is revealed the characteristics of chaosmos that communizes the order and the disorder, deconstruction and creation. Ex-formal space of fashion have shown the relationship of de-centerizing, de-territorial, and do-structural phenomenon among different fashion elements. This paper intends to understand the concept of ex-form, and study expressive manners of ex-formal space of 21C fashion, and conclusion as follows. 1) Overlap changes single space of fashion to multi-layered space through the repeat system of pleats, origami, and folding. 2) Ex-gravity expressed in deviation of the gravity acting vertical direction, for example, twisting, curve, winding, portion. 3) Morphing is shown the change process from single fixed form to different complex form. 4) Blurring is expressed in re-combination and re-arrangement among elements of fashion. 5) Blob shows hybrid fashion space through the liberal compounding and separation of a lot of different elements.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.12 no.2
• /
• pp.100-116
• /
• 2008

This study aims to analyze the characteristics of deconstruction-ism expressed in the fashion of Alexander McQueen. The method and contents of this study are as follows. The three large categories for analysis are indeterminacy, decentralization, and intertextuality. The indeterminacy of meaning is divided into unstructured and unorganized factors in fashion, while decentralization can be categorized into cross-gender, subculture, and post-humanism. Lastly, inter-textuality is classified into factors of mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from a total of 616 designs from the website, www.firstview.com, which carries McQueen's collection from 2000 S/S through 2007 F/W. My analysis qualitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and the characteristics of design. The result of this study is as followed. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, McQueen has introduced retro fashion and ethnic factors of the third world, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has enjoyed using two fabrics of different texture in order to inflict a shock and contrast, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of McQueen's fashion design. McQueen has employed unstructured expression techniques, which dismantle harmony and balance, the basic rule of design, and has presented unorganized images free from basic forms of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. Third, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in McQueen's design. His trans-gender clothing dissolves the traditional division of men and women and adopts a mixed gender expression. Furthermore, he has even tried to express a fourth gender by connecting the human with machine or animal or by connecting the material with the non-material.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.16 no.1
• /
• pp.83-102
• /
• 2012

The instant trend of mobile functionality in the digital age is performing a mediating role of promoting the hybrid tendency in fashion and cosmetics industry. Consumers' needs, which are getting complex and diversified along with development in scientific technology, are requiring product of technology equipped with multi-tasking function in the whole industry. The social and cultural factors, which are shown in cosmetics due to the instant trend of mobile functionality, came to be known on the basis of a ground for classification caused by a change in nomadic lifestyle and by the advance in scientific technology. The irst, The mobile functionality, which is being developed in fashion in the digital age, was indicated to be types such as mobility, one-off, and unity. Second, Even the types of mobile functionality, which are also being developed in make-up and cosmetics in digital age, were indicated to be mobility, one-off, and unity. Third, The trend caused by mobile functionality in fashion was consistent with a type in mobile functionality, which is being developed in cosmetics, thereby having been indicated to be the same type. This implies that there is the same type through independent trend in each sphere even while fashion and cosmetics organically function in the middle of the whole frame, which expresses a human being's external beauty, and implies that even the cosmetics are influenced by fashion. Swift-type beauty product, which is thrown away within one week lengthily and after being used once, are being launched diversely. This quick product can be said to be product that best reflected the characteristic of digital age. However, at this point of time that fast fashion and instant cosmetics, which are thrown away in the wake of being worn easily, are overflowing, the clothing and product with perfection, which has philosophy and thinking of being put more devotion, exert more value and are felt to be necessary.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.15 no.6
• /
• pp.1063-1077
• /
• 2007

The purpose of this research is to comprehend the various range of expressions of fantasies and to summarize the expressive effects of fantasies that appear most commonly in today's popular culture such as film and fashion. The followings are the results of the research: Fantasy means a genre of literary arts, which uses magic and supernatural figures as the themes or plots. The characteristics of the expressive effects of the costumes in fantasy movies are summarized as metaphor and symbol, hybrid, otherness, grotesque. After analyzing the costumes in fantasy movies, it is concluded that these characteristics can be conceptualized as the characteristics of the expressive effects in the field of fashion and they can be used as the basis in setting the visual images. This research also aims at recognizing and predicting the fashion trend by understanding closely at the popular cultures, using the films as a tool, which can be led to examining the possibility of combining various popular cultures.

• The Research Journal of the Costume Culture
• /
• v.29 no.6
• /
• pp.763-778
• /
• 2021

The study aims to analyze the mixed characteristics of knit fashion design as demonstrated in Sacai's collection, which promotes hybrid and mesh-up fusion and proposes various knit design ideas. Standards for categorizing mixed phenomena of Sacai's knit design were established through a review of literature and data analysis. The study's data collection period was from 2012 to 2021, and a total of 174 items were analyzed. The following are the results. First is the fusion of traditional knit and contemporary styles expressed through de-constructive design; traditional knit styles are combined with contemporary styles through color, material, and knitting structure mixtures, such as mixing Northern European Aran, Fair Isle, Nordic, and Ropy knit. Second, the Sakai knit design combines male and female styles by mixing materials and details. A deconstructed knit cardigan was matched with androcentric pin-striped shirts worn over layered shirring skirts embellished with chiffon and lace. Third, everyday street fashion style is blended with a formal, elegant fashion style. For example, the front view has a typical everyday appearance, whereas the back view contains florid and decorated details. The style is expressed as a 360-degrees appellation, with one thing in the front and another in the back. Sacai's distinctive expressional characteristics include a mixed and de-constructive style characterized by unexpected design.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.21 no.4
• /
• pp.127-143
• /
• 2017

In this study, we examine a variety of influences in the field of design and analysis about the value of visual tactile design. In hair design, through study on visual tactility, creative design inspiration in the field of hair design enables development of quality research. Research methods use Internet publications such as local and foreign data, analysis, and related research and book forms, such as network searches. library goes for consideration by a literature search. Contents of this study used review of the case and by visual tactility design, for this study, expressive characteristics by color, texture and form of hair design, from 2014-2017 trend shown in the last three years the expressions of visual tactility being used through the analysis of design by date of the case. Result of this study is, visual tactile design appearing in the areas of hair design, that are not of the rules that are active, abstract form, texture, described as a visual feel the promotion of effective, and light and high brightness is sweet tactile impression, high saturation was cold, dark color was hard and heavy, red system is warm and the blue system is cold sense. In general, design trend in hair for three years from 2014-2017, visual tactility in 2014 is a high saturation and unstructured also soft and bright colors. 2015 is on the overall shape, color, texture, hybrid design configuration is more. As of 2016, 2017 is curved and straight texture, appearance of the hybrid mix to maximize the visual tactility.

• Journal of the Korean Society of Costume
• /
• v.57 no.3 s.112
• /
• pp.176-190
• /
• 2007

As the globalization has increasingly brought in the disintrgration of boundary between cultures, the hybrid of styles, or fusion styles in various cultural spheres have been introduced as important theme. With this new trend, the traditional culture of Asia appeared as the source of inspiration for the West, and as the source of enhanced pride and asset for ethnic groups which have been considered "the Other" by the West. 1990's witnessed a drastically increased interest in Orientalism and Ethnic trends in most social aspects, especially in culture and art. They have been the main theme in fashion, providing the source of inspiration with elements such as the unique color schemes, composition methods and geometrical simplicity. The creative application of traditional culture into modern design as well as fashion can make a significant contribution and be a solid foundation for the development of national culture in general, since images containing cultural authenticity are the visual representation of the nation and they can be important tools for the globalization of design. This study aims to find out the formative characteristics of Korean traditional embroidery and the ways they are applied in modern fashion by world-renowned Korean fashion designers. The purpose of this study is to make a fundamental source for further study by the same author on creative design development utilizing the result. The study methods are literature study combined with research of genuine articles from museums and personal ownership as well as photos from magazines and internet. The significance of this study lies in enhancing the appreciation of Korean traditional culture and expanding the possibility of its globalization by modern application.

• Journal of Fashion Business
• /
• v.11 no.6
• /
• pp.87-100
• /
• 2007

This study aims at analyzing the characteristics of deconestructionism expressed in Issey Myake's fashion who is one of the most creative designers in the world. Method and contents of this study are as follows. Through the review of literatures, three major categories such as interminacy of meaning, decentring, and intertextuality and eight subcategories have been identified as major features of deconestructionism. These subcategories for content analysis were selected to examine the characteristics of deconstructionism expressed in Issey Myake's design in depth. Interminacy of meaning was divided into unstructured and unconstructed factors while decentring into qualities of cross-gender, subculture, anti-fashion, and post-humanism. Lastly, intertextuality was classified into factors of disordered mixing mode and mixed styles. Materials for analysis were chosen from total 349 designs on the website,www.firstview.com, which carries Issey Miyake's collection from 2002 S/S through 2006 F/W. 2 fashion major analysts including the researcher participated in 1st analysis and two another fashion major analysts participated in 2nd analysis. The final level of consistency between analysts was over 97% for all categories. The data analysis quantitatively evaluates the frequency of each category and qualitatively evaluates the characteristics of design. The result is as follows. First, the avant-garde facets of inter-textuality are most prominent. In particular, Miyake has introduced the various novelly textiles to fashion and employed the mixtured styles, not to copy them but to create hybrid designs by using pastiches and mixing fashion styles. Moreover, he has used various fabrics in order to inflict shock and contrast but still create subtle harmony, thus enriching his fashion. Second, the indeterminacy of meaning is the second most frequently shown facet of Miyake's fashion design. Miyake has employed unconstructed expression techniques, which has projected unusual images free from basic forms of designs and also has used the unstructured styles which dismantle harmony and balance-the common rule of design. He has made a new attempt to acknowledge clothing as an expressive artwork by allowing clothes to take a complete form when a person actually wears them. He has demonstrated a unique perspective on cloth construction and presented a love for artistic collaboration in the development of his collections A distinct manufactured aesthetic is exaggerated, even hyperbolic. Thirdly, the aspects of decentralization were also shown in Miyake's design, however, it has been visibly decreased after 2002 S/S.